JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
April 19, 1883. ] 
327 
make very rapid growth. It is likely that if the plants are 
developing properly they will require repotting, which should, 
however, not be done till the old pots are well tilled with roots, 
as they do not like to be overpotted. The pot employed for the 
final shifting may be 6 or 7 inches wide inside, just giving them a 
fair increase of root-room, using the same kind of soil. If it is 
necessary to keep them in the 48-sized pots, they may be fed with 
weak liquid manure twice a week, which will materially assist 
them. In any stage of growth particular attention must be given 
to watering. When in active growth they must never be allowed 
to get dry, and copious supplies may be given them providing the 
drainage is efficient. Owing to their propensity for perpetual 
flowering the young plants will constantly be throwing up flower 
spikes, which should be at once removed, so as to give the plant 
the benefit of all the strength to be derived during the growing 
period, otherwise its cumulated resources will be very small when 
most required for winter blooming. 
As the autumn approaches and the nights grow cold, it will be 
necessary to remove the plants to their winter quarters in the 
greenhouse ; and it as well to say here that they may be kept and 
flowered during the winter months in a much lower temperature 
than is generally supposed to be the case. During the season 
1880-1, owing to the inefficiency of the hot-water apparatus in a 
cool greenhouse, the writer had Zonal Pelargoniums killed by 
frost, while strong and well-grown plants of double Primulas did 
not apparently suffer the least, as far as could be judged from 
their appearance. It must not, however, be inferred that such a 
low temperature is well suited for them. For ordinary conserva¬ 
tory and greenhouse decoration they are well adapted, being of a 
most floriferous disposition, while at the same time for expediting 
flowering they can be placed in a higher temperature, and will 
flower equally well. The varieties described below are all well 
worth growing, and will give a great supply of flowers if cultivated 
as they deserve to be. 
Alba plena. —This is the oldest double-flowered variety. It is 
of very free growth, producing good trusses of flowers in abun¬ 
dance, and is still largely grown almost exclusively for market 
owing to the purity of colour. 
Fimbriata alba plena. —An improvement upon the last, with 
larger trusses of flowers, which are individually larger and more 
duplex, with finely fimbriated edges ; the plant is also stronger in 
habit, but the flowers are not such a pure white, being tinged 
with pink. 
Rubra plena. —A form similar to the first with the same habit, 
but not quite so free-flowering ; flowers bright rosy-purple. 
Emperor. —A splendid variety belonging to the Fern-leaved 
section. The foliage is very handsome ; the flowers are very double, 
of a deep rosy-purple colour, each forming a perfect rosette, and 
produced in crowded spikes, which last for a considerable time. 
This is one of the showiest of the rubra group. 
Empress. —This is the counterpart of the last, with light green 
Fern-like foliage and strong trusses of large very double and pure 
white flowers, beautifully fringed. Rather more delicate than the 
Emperor, but easily grown and very pretty. 
Exquisite. —Very dwarf and compact, with a strong disposition 
to be all flowers. The trusses are very abundant, while the large 
flowers are very double, white, delicately shaded with rose. A 
charming variety, but the flowering must be checked or the plant 
exhaust itself. 
Candidissima. —A vigorous-growing kind, with full and bold 
trusses of flowers rising well above the foliage, pure white, well 
formed, with fimbriated edges. The boldness of the trusses is very 
distinctive, and I regard this as one of the best white-flowered 
varieties. 
Miss Eva Fish. —A strong-growing and large-foliaged variety, 
producing enormous spikes of flowers, which are very large, 
scarcely covered by a half-crown piece, white, marbled and edged 
with purple. Most distinct, showy, and well adapted for bouquets, 
as the footstalks are very long. 
King of the Purples. —A very telling and fre variety, with good 
trusses of very double flowers of a deep magenta-purple colour— 
perhaps the deepest-coloured double variety, and of good form. 
Lord Beaconsfield. —Plant of vigorous habit and very flori¬ 
ferous. Flowers large, of perfect form, bright rosy salmon—a 
most effective colour. This should be extensively grown. 
Princess of Wales. —A very free grower, producing stout erect 
trusses of flowers, large and very double, pure white, with finely 
fimbriated edges. This is a very distinct kind, as the leafstalks 
and flower scapes are deep red, which is in striking contrast with 
the flowers. 
White Lady. —This is one of Mr. Gilbert’s new varieties recently 
sent out by Messrs. Osborn & Son of Fulham. It is a free grower, 
with very large trusses of pure white flowers, or the flowers are 
sometimes striped or blotched with red, when they have a novel 
appearance. Besides these there are many other varieties of 
equal value for the purposes for which these are commended.— 
Pkofessional. 
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\ By the most shilful Cultivators in the several Departments^ 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Protection. —The great range of temperature of late—very hot 
days and very cold nights—has made us watchful of trees in ex¬ 
posed situations, especially of Pears with forward blossom buds, 
which are very liable to damage. In such dry weather, however, 
protection is only required in exceptional cases, for wherever the 
trees have walls, fences, or buildings to screen them from cold 
winds very little more is required. Extreme cold and wet prove 
so fatal to blossom, and while they continue dry blossom left un¬ 
covered is more likely to set its fruit than that which is enveloped 
in mats every night. A wall of cordon Pears facing due east is 
screened from cold wind by a belt of trees running parallel to it 
at a distance of 30 feet, and never has any other shelter, yet most 
of the trees afford an annual crop of fruit. Blossom and foliage 
stiffened by frost suffer most when the bright warm rays of the 
rising sun fall directly upon them. A gradual thaw saves them, 
hence the value of anything to intercept the direct brightness of 
dawn—a mat for trees, and a little litter such as fern or hay for 
bushes. 
Top-dressing. —When Raspberries, Gooseberries, and Currants 
are thoroughly established and in full bearing there should be no 
more digging among them, but an annual heavy top-dressing of 
manure either from the farmyard, stable, piggery, or old hotbeds. 
If this is not yet done no time should be lost about finishing it as 
soon as possible now. First examine the surface, and if the roots 
have become fully established in last year’s dressing, then a heavy 
dressing is required now ; if not, a light one will suffice. Let the 
value and importance of this dressing be fully understood. It 
attracts the roots from the cold subsoil to the warm surface, main¬ 
tains the bushes and canes in full health, vigour, and fertility, 
keeps out drought, keeps down weeds, and saves the annual 
winter’s digging, which is such an expensive matter in extensive 
plantations. The soil of Strawberry beds has become beaten 
down by the heavy rain of the past winter. Let it be loosened 
slightly at the top with hoes and a liberal dressing of artificial 
manure be applied to the entire surface of the bed, so as to be 
washed in by spring showers, and thus provide a store of nutri¬ 
ment for the new growth. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs. —Where Early Prolific and Early Violet are grown in pots 
for the first supply the fruit will soon commence ripening, when 
water must be reduced ; but in the case of Brown Turkey, Negro 
Largo, and White Marseilles (the three best Figs for forcing), it 
must be supplied some time longer, giving liquid manure twice a 
week, and syringe them once or twice a day. Those ripening 
must not be wetted, as it spoils the quality of the fruit and its 
appearance also. Ventilate freely when the air is not cold. It 
is better to allow the temperature to rise somewhat above the 
ordinary maximum than admit cold air in quantity. If the day 
be likely to be fine shut off the heat early in the morning, so as 
to allow the pipes to become cool, and turn it on again at closing 
time. Increase the night temperature to 65° on mild nights, and 
G0° or a little lower on cold nights, C5° to 70° by day, ranging the 
temperature from 75° to 80° by day, with an advance to 85° or 90° 
after closing. Trees in succession houses must be well attended 
to in thinning, stopping, and regulating the side shoots, also the 
terminals when they are near the limit of the trellis. Keep the 
surface of the soil in pots and of borders well mulched, supplying 
water liberally, of which healthy Fig trees take great quantities. 
Syringe twice a day, and close with a strong beat about 2.30 p.m. 
on fine afternoons.* Pinch out the points of the shoots of young 
plants which were potted last month, and when the pots are full 
of roots shift into 10-inch pots. Drain well, and employ a com¬ 
post of turfy loam with a fifth of old moitar rubbish and a sixth 
of well-decayed manure, keeping the plants rather close and 
