Mays, 1883.] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 369 
propagating frame. Inside a common greenhouse or larger frame, 
or even no frame at all, the little lamp-warmed frames are of 
much help to the grower with few wants and inadequate appli¬ 
ances, But a good dung frame is still one of the best propa¬ 
gating appliances. On the management of such room cannot be 
spared here. But it may serve some good purpose to say here 
tbat a mixture of leaves and frequently turned stable litter, so 
universally recommended and so un-come-at-able by thousands, 
is not at all necessary for the making of a thoroughly satisfactory 
hotbed. Tan, which is a waste product, is quite as good as leaves, 
and a bed made of half stable litter, half tan, will last good for 
months. Failing tan, half-decayed manure will answer very well. 
Stableyard litter alone in a fresh state is quite unsuitable—it 
heats too violently. 
A half-spent hotbed affords an amount of bottom heat that is 
better for the propagation of many things than a new one. On 
such many hardwooded plants may be rooted that would be 
excited too much in a warm bed. On an old hotbed under a 
close frame Rose cuttings of firm wood strike readily in July and 
August. 
The “ Pob,” already mentioned, when thoroughly moistened 
gives out a very gentle heat, which lasts for months during 
winter. Cuttings of a large number of coniferous plants, inserted 
in pots and plunged in this under a frame from which frost is 
excluded, will callus and root when they will refuse to do so 
either without bottom heat or when treated to what is generally 
considered bottom heat, but is too exciting. It is said that soap 
waste makes a good and lasting hotbed. 
Bottom heat stimulates by the warmth it supplies. It does 
more. Much of the ordinary manurial matter applied to plants is 
not available for plant-food till changed. Warmth hastens this. 
Nothing stimulates rapid growth like nitrates. These form in all 
soils whenever alkaline bases exist alongside of nitrogenous 
matter. But when the soil is cold the process proceeds very 
slowly, when frozen not at all. But the change proceeds very 
rapidly where there is a bottom heat of from 75° to 90°. It is 
doubtful if ammonia, or even urea, can be directly utilised by 
plants. But these substances in a moist fertile soil begin to 
change as soon as they are fixed ; so that what to-day may be 
regarded as a mineral substance and not fitted for plant food, 
may, when the soil is warm, be converted by an invisible bacterium 
into plant food, and by the plant into plant-tissue or starch or 
sugar by this time to-morrow. Wonderful are the operations of 
Nature and well worth finding out. 
Space has prevented us doing more than merely skimming the 
surface of a subject that we advise our readers, and especially the 
younger of them, to dip into deeply. We have touched on all the 
salient points that have occurred to us, and although much more 
might be written on it—perhaps with profit—the object we had 
in view will be served if it directs the attention of our readers to 
a phase of gardening practice too much neglected. By shelter 
we may protect our plants from the bellowing blast; we may 
raise the temperature by raising walls that warm the air by 
taking in the heat from the sun and giving it to the air ; and all 
this we have endeavoured to do, and then made the most of it. 
It is doubtful if, to an equal extent, we have utilised earth heat. 
—Single-handed. 
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71 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Vines .—The inside borders in early houses where the Grapes 
are taking their last swelling must be given sufficient water to 
keep the soil in a healthy growing state until after the fruit is cut, 
applying the water early in the day, and adding a little fresh 
mulching to keep the surface of the borders moist. Keep up a 
circulation of warm air, but avoid currents of cold air, allowing 
the temperature to rise to 85° with sun heat and proportionate 
ventilation, gradually reducing it in the afternoon ; and if the 
Vines are carrying a full crop and there is any doubt about per¬ 
fection in colour and finish, let the night temperature range low 
or fall to G0°, so as to rest the Vines. If red spider appear coat 
the hot-water pipes thinly with sulphur and skim milk; but be 
careful not to overdo this, as all the white thin-skinned varieties, 
such as White Frontignan, Sweetwater, and Muscat of Alexandria, 
are sometimes injured, the skin being turned of a blue hue, which 
turns to brown, and the berries not unfrequently crack. If mulch¬ 
ing, or, rather, fermenting materials on outside borders has become 
cold, a portion of the heaviest should be removed, leaving some 
of the longest as a protection for the surface roots and to prevent 
the borders becoming dry. 
In succession houses due attention must be given to stopping, 
tying, and regulating the growth, the removal of superfluous shoots 
and bunches. Muscats in flower should have a high range of 
temperature by day; 80° to 85° or 90° is not too much when ex¬ 
ternal conditions are favourable, allow it to fall to 70°, or even 
lower, at night with a little air. Dust the bunches with a large 
camel’s-hair brush when the air is dry, as it will be with the sun 
shining and air circulating, and keep the points of the bunches 
turned up to the light. When crops of fruit are swelling give 
air early in the day with fire heat, allowing an advance to 80° or 
85°, closing at 3 p.m. or earlier, according to the weather, with 
plenty of atmospheric moisture obtained oy damping available 
surfaces thoroughly with water or weak liquid manure. Allow 
the laterals to extend, but guard against overcrowding, it being 
important that the foliage have full exposure to light. Examine 
inside borders, and water freely with tepid liquid manure. If the 
borders are well drained they cannot receive too much water when 
the Vines are in active growth. Take advantage of every gleam 
of sun in the management of late houses, ventilating early with 
fire heat, rising to 80° or 85°, and close early, or about 3 P.M. 
with plenty of moisture, when the fire heat may be shut off until 
the temperature falls to 65°, when it should again be turned on, 
but only to prevent the night temperature from falling below G0°, 
or on cold nights to 55°. 
Newly planted Vines should be kept close and moist until they 
are growing freely, when they should be induced to make short- 
jointed wood by judicious ventilation aDd full exposure to light, 
encouraging growth by early closing, keeping the surface of the 
borders regularly moist. 
Cucumbers .— Old plants which have been in bearing since 
November will now begin to bear an untidy appearance, and the 
chances are they will not be free from red spider. In this case, 
and the house being divided into compartments, this part or 
section should be cleared of its occupants, all soil removed, the 
glass, woodwork, and walls thoroughly cleaned, and fresh hillocks 
or ridges formed for the reception of vigorous young plants, which 
will come into bearing quickly and give more satisfactory results. 
The soil should be somewhat heavier and firmer than is advisable 
for winter fruiters, and secure bottom heat from fermenting mate¬ 
rials in preference to hot-water pipes. If old plants must be re¬ 
tained crop them lightly, supply tepid liquid manure, top-dressing 
with good loam, and syringe copiously. Remove exhausted growths 
and bad foliage, laying in fresh so as to keep up a succession' of 
bearing wood. Shade no more than is necessary to prevent 
scorching. Plants in pits and frames will now be in bearing, and 
will need to be stopped and have the growth regulated, keeping 
the foliage thin and clear of the glass. Ventilate freely early in 
the day, and close about 3 p.m., with plenty of moisture. In 
renovating the linings rank steam is apt to be troublesome ; injury, 
therefore, should be guarded against by leaving a little air on at 
night. Glasses should be used to keep the fruit clean and straight. 
HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Very little harm has happened so far to the blossom in the 
south, notwithstanding the frequent prevalence of cold east wind 
and the heavy fall of snow on the 23rd and 24th ult. Pears and 
Cherries fully exposed have suffered slightly, but it is surprising 
how few blackened pistils there are, most of the abundant flowers 
having all the organs unscathed, except some battered petals on 
the most forward. Only a few Plums have open flowers yet, and 
no Apples are in bloom, so that we may still hope for the full crop 
of fruit of which the swelling buds give such fair promise. 
Every means of protection must now be turned to account to 
ward off any sudden frost or bitter wind. Have such means at 
hand, but do not cover the trees without real necessity arises ; 
rather expose the blossom fully to every breeze that blows except 
strong north-eastern gales. That the north wind is seldom 
hurtful is proved by the full crop of fruit generally produced by 
trees on walls and fences facing due north, it is the bitter nor’- 
easter which does the mischief. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—Do no disbudding till the fruit is set 
and fast swelling. Every breast shoot is a protection to the fruit 
and side shoots, and the recent cold wind has already blistered 
many of them ; far better is it to retain every shoot till it is G or 
8 inches long than to remove one of them while cold unsettled 
weather prevails. There need be no fear of exhaustion or weaken¬ 
ing the system of robust healthy trees, and a sickly or delicate 
tree ought not to be suffered to bear fruit. Most of the trees 
appear to be setting a good crop of fruit; watch them closely, for 
