JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
414 
[ May 17, 1883. 
long. Pinch it at the third leaf from the base, by which about an 
inch of new growth is added to the spurs each time the lateral 
growth is so shortened. Leading shoots on trees that have not 
yet filled the space allotted to them should not be stopped till 
they are 16 inches long, but then it may be done advantageously 
by taking off a couple of inches to induce lateral growth and an 
additional leading growth. Do all that is possible to protect 
blossom and clusters of incipient fruit from harm, but do no 
thinning till the fruit is swelling freely, for then, and not sooner, 
can you proceed with any degree of certainty. 
Currants trained to walls require attention now in stopping the 
lateral growth and making fast the leading growth, which is 
quite long enough to be broken by high wind, as it so often is 
when this trifling but important timely care is not given it. 
Strawberries are now growing freely, and are sufficiently for¬ 
ward to derive much good from sewage, which should be given 
freely now, and again when the fruit begins swelling. 
FRUIT-FORCING. 
Vines .—Cold northerly winds have retarded the crops con¬ 
siderably, and a wished-for change from dull weather to warm 
and bright sunshine it is hoped will soon set in, under which 
a great improvement may be expected in the occupants of 
forcing houses, and in Vines especially. In this case, where 
early closing has been practised, fire heat may be considerably 
reduced. After so much sharp firing as the cold weather has ne¬ 
cessitated, red spider may be expected, especially if the inside 
borders have not been properly watered. Early ripe Grapes will 
only need sufficient artificial heat to keep up a circulation of 
rather dry warm air, and to prevent the temperature falling 
much below 60° at night. Although the moisture is to be reduced 
the floors and walls should be damped on fine days, as moderate 
moisture will not injure ripe Grapes at this season, and is essential 
for the maintenance of healthy foliage. Syringe the foliage freely 
as soon as the crop is removed to keep it clean and healthy as 
long as possible, as the loss of the principal leaves injures the 
Vines and affects the next season’s crop of fruit. Warm rains 
passing through heavy mulchings on outside borders are bene¬ 
ficial for thoroughly established Vines in full growth, and where 
these are not afforded artificial should be resorted to, if the 
borders are dry affording the water or liquid in a tepid state. 
Muscats, Alicantes, Lady Downe’s, and other shy-setting kinds 
set as fully and require as much thinning as Hamburghs in a day 
temperature of 85° to 95°, and 70° at night, it being good practice 
to remove all the surplus bunches before the Vines flower, as 
with assistance in this way and careful fertilisation duly per¬ 
formed the most shy-setting kinds will set every berry. Late 
Vines now in rapid growth must be tied out and stopped as soon 
as sufficient wood is made to furnish the trellis with uncrowded 
foliage. If fermenting material on outside borders has not been 
removed a portion ought now to be taken off, avoiding a sudden 
check by leaving sufficient for a good mulching. Do not allow 
thinning in succession houses to fall into arrear, as Grapes at 
this season swell very rapidly. Cut-back Vines intended for 
next season’s fruiting should be potted without delay, giving 
generous treatment, and stop when they have made a growth of 
about 8 feet, or sufficient for the position they are to occupy. 
Pines .—The vigorous state of growth at this season will tend to 
render the plants susceptible of injury from inattention to venti¬ 
lating, watering, and shading if necessary, as it often is in the 
early summer months when the panes of glass are large. As the 
solar heat increases employ fire heat simply as an auxiliary when 
the other fails or is insufficient for the purpose. Young growing 
plants should have the heat maintained at 70° at night, keeping 
that of the fruiting department at 75°. In close damp pits or 
houses where the plants are at a considerable distance from the 
glass great care will be necessary to prevent an attenuated growth, 
which happens more particularly with young plants insufficiently 
ventilated. Where fruiting plants are so located watchfulness 
will likewise be necessary and ventilation, or the crowns of the 
fruits will be increased beyond reasonable proportions, which is 
not only unsightly but deteriorates the value of the fruit. The 
remedy in both instances is to take timely precautions in the way 
of a freer circulation of air during the prevalence of bright sun. 
Fruit approaching ripeness and in close proximity to the glass 
will be much benefited by being slightly shaded for a couple of 
hours at midday, and providing the heat is well maintained, 
liberal ventilation at this stage of development will be a material 
aid to perfection both as regards colour and quality. As soon as 
a fruit ripens it should be cut and removed to a more temperate 
place, if it is to be kept, pot cultivation affording a great advan¬ 
tage, as the fruit and plant can be removed together, and the fruit 
thereby preserved fresher and better. 
Melons .—Fruit ripening should have a little ventilation at night, 
or flavour will be wanting, close confined air not being favourable 
to high quality. Plants in pits or frames recently planted, and 
having been stopped at the second or third rough leaf, will have 
thrown three or more leading shoots, which should be evenly 
trained over the allotted space and all others closely rubbed off. 
The leading shoots may be stopped when they have grown to a 
length of 18 inches, when they will send out laterals showing fruit 
freely. The fruit-bearing flowers should be stopped one joint 
beyond the fruit when the flowers are impregnated. Put on air 
early in the day to prevent scorching. Close about 3.30 P.M. on 
bright days. Attend to the earthing-up of hillocks as they 
require it. 
THE FLOWER GARDEN AND PLEASURE GROUND. 
Preparing for Bedding-out .—Owing to the backwardness of the 
season and the cold state of the soil planting the summer bedding 
plants will necessarily in some, and advisably in other cases, be 
late. Wallflowers, Myosotis, Pansies, Daisies, Alyssum, Saponaria, 
Silenes, and other hardy bedding plants are now at their best, and 
probably will be gay till near the middle of June. These hinder 
bedding-out, and will also leave the ground in a dry impoverished 
condition, consequently strong-growing plants should be had in 
readiness, and a quantity of decayed manure or leaf soil be dug 
in prior to planting. Strong plants of Zonal Pelargoniums are 
not much injured by being kept in small pots, as these, providing 
the balls are loosened when planted, soon become established. 
Ageratums, Lobelias, Violas, Verbenas, Calceolarias, Gazsnias, 
Heliotropes, Dahlias, Solanums, Ricinuses, Maize, Salvias, Fuchsias, 
Wigandias, Grevilleas, Cannas, Tobacco, Polymnia, and Ery- 
thrinas ought not to long remain in small pots, or they will re¬ 
ceive a check from which they will not quickly recover. The 
first seven mentioned are best boxed off or else bedded-out tem¬ 
porarily in rough frames as previously advised. The remainder 
should receive a shift into larger pots. Any good loamy soil suits 
them, and they will well repay the extra trouble. 
All the hardiest of the bedding plants, such as autumn-struck 
Pelargoniums, Lobelias, Koniga, Cineraria maritima, Centaureas, 
Verbenas, Golden Pyrethrum, and Polemonium ought now to be 
stood out on ashes, giving the preference to sheltered sunny spots. 
Some provision should be made for protecting from late frosts as 
well as from heavy rains. The frames will thus be liberated for 
the hardening-off or the pricking-out, as the case may be, of such 
tenderer kinds as Heliotropes, Ageratums, Perilla, Tagetes, Salvias, 
Dahlias, Marigolds, Asters, Stocks, Nasturtiums, Zinnias, Godetias ; 
while in the houses Iresines, Alternantheras may be boxed off, 
and Amaranthus melancholicus ruber and Coleus Verschaffeltii 
potted off singly. Care must be taken not to overwater the four 
last named, especially when first placed in cooler quarters or in 
the open. The Amaranthus is a good substitute for Iresine 
Herbstii, and may yet be sown. It is best sown late, grown 
quickly, and planted out when all danger from late frosts may 
reasonably be considered past. Dell’s Crimson Beet may yet be 
sown in small pots and placed in heat—that is, supposing plants 
are required either to make up a given number or as substitutes 
for Iresine Lindeni. It is a good though seldom-adopted practice 
to preserve all the smallest of the Beet grown in the kitchen 
garden and to plant these where required. They are certain to 
push up flower stems, and if these are frequently pinched back 
stocky highly coloured plants result, and the leaves, being narrow, 
much resemble Iresine Lindeni. 
Any plants of herbaceous Pyrethrums, Pentstemons, Antirrhi¬ 
nums, Delphiniums, Campanulas, Hollyhocks that for safety have 
been wintered in frames, or strong early seedlings, ought at once 
to be planted. All pay for liberal culture. Manure freely, dig 
deeply, and if the soil is rough add a good quantity of light mould 
from the compost yard, and plant firmly and deeply, without, 
however, unduly burying the collars. Slugs are very destructive 
among Pyrethrums, Carnations, Pinks, and later on Dahlias, con¬ 
sequently they should be closely trapped and destroyed. Thin 
out herbaceous Phloxes, old stools of Pentstemons and Antirrhi¬ 
nums, and Asters, a few strong flowering growths being preferable 
to many weak ones. Thin out and stake Sweet Peas, and sow 
more for a late supply of bloom. The flower borders should be 
frequently stirred with a Dutch hoe, this destroying weeds, 
partially exterminating slugs, and otherwise proving beneficial. 
Briars budded last season should have their stems kept clear of 
shoots and the suckers pulled, not cut off. Look sharp after and 
destroy the grubs which have a partiality for young Rose shoots. 
Briars being prepared for budding should have their shoots re¬ 
duced to two or three in number, according to their strength, 
these being disposed nearly at one height, and so as to form a 
well-balanced head. 
