May 31, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 441 
31st 
Tn 
Royal Society at 4.30 P.M. 
1st 
F 
2nd 
S 
National Tulip Show at Manchester 
3rd 
SUN 
2nd Sunday after Trinity. 
4 til 
M 
5th 
TU 
6 th 
W 
BOUGAINVILLEA SPECTABILIS. 
B&Z&o see tliis plant in flower is rather the 
exception than the rule, whereas with 
B. glabra the contrary may be said to 
be the case, and owing to this fact the 
latter species is more frequently met 
with, although in some points it is 
greatly inferior to the former—notably in 
depth of colour of the bracts and brilliancy 
of the flowers. Many good gardeners will frankly 
admit having found their master in B. spectabilis, 
and that, do what they will, they have hitherto 
been unable to induce it to flower ; and the consequent 
result has been they have thrown to the rubbish heap 
whatever plants they may have had of it, at the same 
time feeling sure that it either requires some peculiar 
treatment or that it very rarely flowers out of its native 
country. To entertain such ideas as these is to labour 
under a delusion which may be easily dispelled if in the 
future they will give the right treatment. From the 
success I have had in flowering it annually in pots, the 
undermentioned details respecting our modus operandi 
may not be unacceptable, and if carried out strictly to 
the letter success will be the ultimate result. At the 
present time it is in flower with us, and for nearly 
three weeks has been quite a picture; indeed, from the 
time the bracts begin to assume their crimson tinge 
until the flowers are open it is an object of great 
interest and beauty. 
After flowering, or say from the middle to the end of 
May, cut out all weak and spindly growth, and prune 
back all the strongest shoots to within an inch of their 
base. Reduce the roots of the plants by shaking out a 
portion of the old soil and cutting back a few of the 
strongest roots. Repot in a compost consisting of as 
near as follows : two parts fibry peat, one of loam, and 
one part sharp silver sand, adding thereto a dash of 
bonemeal, together with broken potsherds and small 
pieces of charcoal, which will keep the soil porous and 
allow the water to pass through freely. Use plenty of 
drainage material; at the same time place over it a 
layer of moss or of turf from which all the loose soil 
has been previously shaken out. As the work of pot¬ 
ting proceeds ram down the soil moderately firm, and 
let the compost near the top of the pot slope down 
from an inch below the rim of the pot to the base or 
collar of the plant, the latter being, when grown in 
large pots, about 2 inches below the rim, and propor¬ 
tionately less in smaller ones. By adopting this plan, 
instead of allowing the collar of the plant to be some¬ 
what higher than the surrounding soil, there is one 
great advantage gained—viz., the water percolates 
through the old ball and does not, as is oftentimes 
the case, turn the fresh compost sour before the new 
roots pass into it. 
After potting place the plant in a moist temperature 
of about 60°, syringe several times daily, and when 
the young shoots are an inch long disbud rather freely, 
leaving only the very strongest, the number of course 
being regulated according to the size of each individual 
plant. On no account must the remaining shoots 
during the growing season be pinched back ; this 
would almost be fatal to their flowering the following 
spring, but allow them to grow out their entire length 
and expose to the full glare of the sun. As the pots 
become full of roots copious supplies of water must be 
given, and on all favourable occasions ventilate with 
no unsparing hand, for in strong well-ripened wood 
lies the whole secret of success, so to speak. In the 
autumn, or as soon as it is seen the plants have com¬ 
pleted their season’s growth, gradually withhold water, 
and for about two months in midwinter keep them in a 
cool place where the temperature does not exceed 45 9 
or 50°, during which time little or no water will be 
required. In February the plants may be encouraged 
to make a fresh start by placing them in a higher 
temperature. Cut back the points of all shoots about 
6 inches, and stake and tie down to the required form. 
Give the plants a good soaking by immersing them in a 
tank of water for an hour or two, afterwards top-dress 
with decayed manure. The only further attention which 
is necessary till the plants come into flower is to syringe 
two or three times daily and give water when requisite, 
employing weak liquid manure when the bracts appear. 
In conclusion, let me impress upon the minds of 
those who would wish to succeed in flowering this 
grand plant that there are three points which they 
must keep in view, otherwise failure will be the result. 
The points alluded to are strong growths, well-ripened 
wood, and complete rest during the winter months.— 
Et Cetera. 
SULPHATE OF AMMONIA FOR VEGETABLES. 
A dressing of sulphate of ammonia given during the 
summer months to vegetables in free growth has a 
wonderful effect in advancing most crops. The present 
is a good time to dress such crops as Onions, both 
spring-planted and spring-sown. Cauliflowers may 
also be assisted in the same way. Any young seedlings 
of the Cabbage tribe which may be in a backward con¬ 
dition are forwarded rapidly by a dressing, which in 
dry weather should be preceded and followed by a 
watering, which need only be slight, as the roots of 
these are best kept near the surface. The first water¬ 
ing at once causes the sulphate to dissolve and pre¬ 
pares the roots for the after watering, while the after 
supply of water carries the already partly dissolved salt 
down to the roots without waste, and with rapid effect. 
The manure is strewn broadcast over thickset crops like 
Onions, about H to 2 cwt. per acre being a good 
dressing, or from half an ounce to an ounce per square 
yard. We have found it advantageous to mix the 
manure with an equal part of sharp sand, crushing all 
lumps in the process. For planted-out crops of Cab¬ 
bages and Cauliflowers the pure manure is applied, as 
much as lies between the first and second finger and 
the thumb being a sufficient dressing. Later, we have 
found a dressing applied to Seakale in the same way 
No. 153.— VOL. VI., Third Series. 
No. 1809.—VOL. LXIX. Old Series. 
