May 31, 1883 ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
455 
Odontoglossum Pescatorei anil 0. Alexandra!, being notable. In 
every bouse, indeed, there is something of interest and beauty. 
PLEROMA ELEGANS. 
This attractive plant, once generally grown, is now too much 
neglected. The fact that large flowers are produced most freely 
on the points of last year’s shoots furnishes the key-note to the 
method of culture to adopt. The next thing essential to success is 
that it will not thrive if kept in a plant-stove, nor yet will it thrive 
if kept in a cool greenhouse. In the one case it will get straggling, 
and the wood will not ripen well enough to bloom freely ; and in 
the other the plant will assume a starved appearance, and become 
brown and unhealthy. 
The plant, occupying a 5-inch pot now well filled with roots, we 
should transfer to a 7 or 8-inch, draining the pot well, using a 
little broken sifted charcoal over the drainage—that is, getting rid 
of the dust; then gently disentangle the roots outside the ball, so 
that they shall run at once into the new soil, taking care that before 
shifting the ball is thoroughly and sufficiently moistened, as fresh- 
potting such a plant dry is next-door to throwing it away. The soil 
should be in good order, neither wet nor dry, and picked-in pretty 
lightly among and to the roots. 
For plants about this size three parts of heath soil to two of loam 
should be used; and one part more may consist of silver sand, 
broken pots, and nodules of charcoal, so as to allow free passage for 
Fig. 99.—Pleroma elegans. 
water. When the plants come to stand in a 10 or 12-inch pot the 
fibry loam and heath soil may be in equal proportions, and then the 
loam will insure more stubbiness in the growth. Then, too, a little 
fine aerated leaf mould may also be used in the soil. A little mos 3 
will likewise be an advantage between the soil and the drainage. 
After potting it would be well to raise the temperature gradually 
from 50° to 60°, using a little shade in bright sunshine, and frequent 
sprinklings overhead, until the roots are working freely in the fresh 
soil. Until then water should be given carefully, so as not to deluge 
the fresh soil until the roots get into it. A skiff from the syringe 
will be useful in sunny afternoons until the end of July. As soon 
as the roots are taking fresh hold, the training of the plant should 
commence, fastening some shoots nearly horizontally, but letting 
their points have an upright direction, so that the plant when full 
grown shall have an orbicular form. Many of the shoots will need 
no stopping owing to their comparative weakness; but all the 
stronger shoots will need to be stopped several times, so as to insure 
compactness and regularity of growth. When blooming next season 
is resolved on, no stopping of shoots should take place after the end 
of June. Water will be required in greater quantity as the sun 
gains strength; and as the roots get to the sides of the pot, liquid 
manure will help to give strength and colour, using it in a clear and 
weak state. It is necessary to give the plant more air, after July, 
to consolidate the growths.—J. H. 
WORK foi\.the WEEK.. 
-'r nl Ire 
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HARDY FRUIT GARDEN. 
Growth is so much encouraged by the warm genial weather 
that the disbudding of Peaches and Nectarines may soon be 
finished. Make fast to wall or trellis all new growth left on the 
trees ; see that all fastenings are left loose enough to allow young 
growth room to swell freely and unchecked. If shreds and nails 
are used keep them away from the fruit, much of which is 
frequently spoilt by negligence in this matter. Bear this in 
mind as you are at work upon the trees, and remove any nails 
used in the winter training that are in the way of swelling fruit. 
The foliage is wonderfully free from blister this year, but a 
watchful eye must be kept on it as the weather grows hot, and 
an occasional thorough syringing given to keep down red spider. 
The legitimate work of the syringe is to keep the foliage clean. 
Thin the fruit sufficiently, water the border frequently— once a 
week is not too often in hot dry weather while the fruit is 
swelling, and by all means use sewage if you can get it. To 
have fine fruit in abundance there must be stout wood, large 
foliage, and a free steady flow of sap ; therefore look well to the 
roots, and see that they are well fed. They are naturally greedy 
of moisture, and no mere surface wetting will at all suffice. 
If the drainage is well done there need be no fear of over- 
wateriDg. 
The lateral growth of Pears and Plums is all sufficiently 
forward for pruning now. This pruning of soft young growth is 
so easily done that the shoots are frequently and expeditiously 
nipped off with the thumb nail and forefinger. This has given 
rise to the somewhat misleading term of “ pinching,” but in 
reality it is not a pinch but a clean nip. About an inch of new 
growth is left on at the base, the object of the nipping being the 
rapid formation of fruiting spurs. As the season advances atten¬ 
tion will repeatedly be called to this important detail of sound 
practice. Some Pears are shedding much fruit, quite two-thirds 
of it falling off some clusters, which shows the risk of an entire 
loss of the crop where premature thinning is practised. 
Red and White Currants require attention now, both in nipping 
off the young growth in just the same manner as the Pears are 
done, and in keeping down caterpillars, which have already 
attacked some bushes. Raspberries should have the young canes 
thinned at once, for they are already a foot high, and will soon 
crowd and weaken each other if left unthinned. American 
Blackberries are growing freely, and should have the sturdy 
young shoots tied in now, and repeatedly subsequently as the 
growth lengthens, both for neatness and that the fruit may be got 
at when ripe, which is a difficult matter if the growth with its 
formidable spines is left untrained. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Pines. —Spring-started plants which have been placed in fruit¬ 
ing pots will, if the roots be in a satisfactory state, be making 
free growth, and, to insure a sturdy habit, allow the plants a 
distance of about 2 feet apart every way. If favourable weather 
prevails ventilate betimes, keeping the heat to 85° as a minimum 
from sun heat, and close between that and 80° for the day ; but if 
the weather be dull maintain at 65° only at night and 70° in the 
day, keeping the heat uniform at the roots between 80° and 90°. 
In the fruiting department artificial heat, whatever the weather 
may be, will be necessary to keep the heat at 75° to 80° con¬ 
stantly ; and in proportion to the artificial heat employed the 
amount of moisture must be regulated, lightly damping the plants 
with clear tepid water whenever the axils of the leaves become 
dry. The suckers in the case of vigorous plants are apt to disturb 
the erect position of the fruit, which should be seen to and obvi¬ 
ated by a small stake, as a fruit with a one-sided crown is very 
objectionable. Offset shoots or suckers which may appear at the 
base of the fruit should be removed as soon as they appear, as 
well as those at the base of the crown, and any superfluous 
suckers beyond the one required for stock. Plants swelling off 
the fruit freely will need much care in watering, and should 
always be done by a practical hand, as water with some stimu¬ 
lating agent should be given copiously whenever it is required, 
and at the same temperature as the roots. Take advantage of 
solar heat to keep the temperature for fruiting plants at 90° 
to 95°, closing with sun at 85° to 90° ; and when there is the 
prospect of a sunny day give air in good time. 
