June 7, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
479 
third, Mr. S. Barlow, Castleton. Eight stands of six dissimilar 
Tulips, one feathered and one flamed in each class.—First, Mr. D. 
Woolley, Stockport; second, Mr. S. Barlow ; third, Mr. W. Kitchen. 
Four stands of six dissimilar Tulips, one feathered and one flamed in 
each class.—First, Mr. E. H. Schofield, Lower Wortley, near Leeds ; 
second, Mr. H. Houseley, Stockport; third, Mr. Thomas Baker, Pen¬ 
nington. Six stands of three feathered Tulips, one in each class.— 
First, Mr. S. Barlow ; second, Mr. W. Kitchen ; third, Mr. S. Schofield. 
Six stands of three flamed Tulips, one in each class.—First, Mr. D. 
Woolley ; second, Rev. F. D. Horner ; third, Mr. R. Sharpley, Wake¬ 
field. Three stands of two Tulips, one feathered and one flamed, of 
any class.—First, Mr. R. Woolfenden, Royton. Six stands of two 
Tulips, one feathered and one flamed, of any class.—First, Mr. H. 
Houseley ; second, Mr. R. Sharpley ; third, Mr. S. Barlow. Single 
bloom, feathered bizarres.—First, Mr. W. Whittaker, Salford ; second, 
Mr. J. Knowles, Stalybridge ; third, Mr. J. Morris, Bedford Leigh. 
Single blooms, feathered Roses.—First, Mr. H. Travis, Royton; second, 
Mr. J. Morris ; third Mr. J. Knowles. Single blooms, feathered byblce- 
mens.—First, Mr. D. Woolley ; second, Mr. William Kitchen ; third, 
Mr. W. Whittaker. Single blooms, flamed bizarres.—First, Rev. 
F. D. Horner ; second and third, Mr. W. Whittaker. Single blooms, 
flamed roses.—First, Mr. S. Barlow ; second, Mr. R. Sharpley ; third, 
Mr. D. Woolley. Single blooms, flamed byblcemens.—First, Mr. H. 
Houseley ; second, Mr. R. Sharpley ; third, Mr. II. Houseley. The 
best feathered Tulip and the best flamed Tulip in the Exhibition.— 
Rev. F. D. Horner. Breeders.—Six stands of six dissimilar Tulips, 
two of each c'ass.—First, Rev. F. D. Horner ; second, Mr. S. Barlow'; 
third, Mr. J. Wood. Six stands of three Tulips, one of each class.— 
First, Mr. W. Kitchen; second, Rev. F. D. Horner; third, Mr. J. 
Wood. Single blooms, byblcemen breeders.—First, Mr. S. Barlow'; 
second, Rev. F. D. Horner ; third, Mr. S. Barlow'. Single blooms, 
rose breeders.—First and second, Mr. S. Barlow ; third, Rev. F. D. 
Horner. Single blooms, bizarre breeders.— First, Mr. S. Barlow; 
second, Mr. Martleu, Pemberton ; third, Rev. F. D. Horner. The 
best breeder Tulip of any class in the whole Exhibition.—Mr. S. 
Barlow.— (The Manchester Courier.) 
A Hardy Erower Bed in the Grass. —I have a large flower 
bed in the grass beside the avenue, and away from those in the 
flower garden proper, that to my mind the combination is worthy 
of notice, especially as being effective now. the period when the 
spring garden is losing its beauty and the summer garden beds are 
not yet, in many instances, even filled. It is nearly 20 feet in 
diameter. The centre is Anemone coronaria (scarlet), massed. They 
are seedlings, but transplant badly, and are best the first and 
second year. Next Limnanthes Douglasii, about 2 feet of a belt 
around. Then Japan Primroses (red), and lastly Narcissus poeticus, 
fl. pi. Tall t ees shade the bed from the midday sun, and thus the 
flowers keep fresh the longer.—W. J. M., Clonmel. 
work .FnijTHE week.. 
[By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments .] 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Sowing has been mostly brought to an end now, and when we 
have got in a few more rows of late Peas, Kidney Beans, and 
Broad Beans it will be finished. Turnips, Spinach, and salads 
are the only exceptions, and all of these will be sown monthly 
until August. Vegetable gardens have now a full appearance, 
and vegetables are becoming plentiful. Weeds are growing fast, 
and must be promptly destroyed. Many weeds are annually 
introduced with the manure, and in some cases they may originate 
from the seed which was allowed to ripen and fall last year ; but 
few have seeded now, and timely hoeing will not only be bene¬ 
ficial at present, but few will appear in autumn, and they will 
be thinned generally. Amongst rows of young plants, such as 
Onions, Carrots, and Turnips, the weeds should be drawn out 
from between the plants with the hand, and then the hoe should 
be run between the rows. 
Do not be in a hurry to thin Horn Carrots in the open quarters 
until they are large enough for use, when they may be drawn 
freely, and the permanent crop may be left 3 inches from plant 
to plant. Where Carrots, Onions, or any other young vegetable 
plants are dying through being eaten by some grub at the root, 
water the soil about them thoroughly with strong soot water. 
Many plants require thinning now, especially in cases where 
thick sowing was practised. Unless for exhibition we never 
thin one of our spring-sown Onions. In some parts they are in 
clusters, and here and there they have come as if they had been 
thinned, and in these places large bulbs are sure to form ; but 
where they are growing so close they will only be medium in 
size, and this is what we want, as the smallest Onions are 
always the best for keeping through the winter and far into 
spring. At the final thinning Parsnips should not be closer than 
from 15 inches to 18 inches apart if really fine roots are wanted, 
and Beetroot should be left 12 inches apart, or less if small roots 
are in demand. 
Our William I. Peas are now very useful, but to get these and 
others to fill the pods quickly the points are taken out of the 
6hoots before they have obtained their full height. This has a 
wonderful effect in causing the pods to fill up quickly, and the 
practice acts on Broad and Runner Beans in the same way. In 
dry poor soils Peas will now be much benefited by being 
mulched. Good moist manure cannot always be obtained for 
this purpose, but cuttiDgs and sweepings from lawns and any 
old half-decayed refuse makes very useful mulching, and should 
be used freely. 
Vegetable Marrows and ridge Cucumbers growing on mounds 
are now showing fruit, and will soon give a supply ; but great 
attention must be given to the watering, as dryness at the root 
causes the fruits to become yellow and drop. When spring 
Cabbages are cut, if it is not desired to retain the stems and 
grow them on to supply side heads further on, clear them all off, 
manure the ground in digging, and plant at once with Veitch’s 
Cauliflower. All planting of young vegetables may be carried 
on as soon as ground has been cleared. The earliest Potatoes 
will soon be all lifted, and ground of this kind should never be 
allowed to remain empty ; in fact, empty spaces, poor crops, or 
any disorder should not be visible in a kitchen garden at the 
present time. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—Trees expected to afford full crops 
of fruit in May and the early part of June require careful 
treatment to keep them in health and bearing for a number 
of years consecutively, as they have to make their growth at 
the dullest period of the year, to ripen it and rest at the hottest. 
It is of the greatest importance to pay particular attention to 
syringing and watering the trees as they become cleared of their 
fruit. The borders outside as well as inside must have copious 
supplies of water, giving weakly trees liquid manure, which will 
help to plump the buds and recruit the trees. All useless wood 
from which the fruit has been gathered must be removed at once, 
and if the roof is formed of moveable sashes they should be 
entirely withdrawn during rain, and at other times ventilate freely 
both night and day, which will tend to steady and perfect matu¬ 
rity of the wood, and prevent premature development of the buds. 
Those wishing for very early fruit will be acting judiciously to 
have the requisite number of trees to give the fruit required in a 
house by themselves, and not mixed with mid-season and late 
varieties, as trees with ripening fruit require different treatment 
to those with the fruit in the last stages of swelling. For ripening 
in April, the trees being started early in December, we have a 
great acquisition in Alexander, of good size, fair colour, and 
excellent quality. 
Houses in which the fruit is ripening will not require much 
artificial heat, none in bright weather, but in dull wet weather a 
little will be necessary. In the later succession houses tying in 
theyouDg growths and stopping laterals must be carefully attended 
to, syringing the trees vigorously twice daily in bright weather, 
but in dull weather do not keep the trees drippiDg with water. 
Whatever is done in the matter of syringing should be so as to 
allow the foliage to become dry before night. Stop the shoots 
beyond the fruit, and remove or turn aside any leaves that shade 
or interfere with the colouring of the fruit. Top-dress inside 
borders with short manure and apply water copiously, giving it 
until passing freely through the drainage. If red spider appear 
promptly apply an insecticide. 
Vines .—Late Vines still in flower of the shy-setting kinds must 
have every attention, affording fire heat sufficient to maintain a 
circulation of dry warm air, ranging from 80° to 90° in the day¬ 
time and 70° at night, artificial fertilisation having daily atten¬ 
tion, taking pollen from Hamburghs. When set clean the bunches 
by syringing with clear rain water, and proceed with thinning at 
once, as every day lost tells against the Vines and the crop. In 
the case of shy setters it is advisable to thin out the small berries 
only in the first instance, going over them two or three times, as 
the berries that have but one or two stones in them cannot well 
he distinguished at the first thinning. Grapes intended to hang 
through the winter require rather severe thinning, but not so as 
to produce loose bunches. Muscats and Lady Downe’s passing 
