June 7, 1883. ] 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
481 
on the ground, resting it on a couple of sticks to prevent crushing 
the bees on turning it down. Put a roof on top to shade it; in the 
evening set it on the stand. Some writers recommend that it be 
placed on the stand at once, but this is not advisable, as it would 
have a tendency to weaken the swarm, for many of the bees will con¬ 
tinue flying round the site throughout the day, and failing to find the 
whereabouts of their comrades they will eventually return^ to the 
parent stock, thus greatly diminishing the original number of the 
swarm. When the bees settle in a difficult place—in the heart of a 
Gooseberry bush for example—gently move the boughs apart, and put 
the hive just over it, allowing it to remain undisturbed for a time ; 
but if this does not allure them into it, then place the hive on its side 
as near the swarm as may be, and sharply brush them into it with a 
wing or with the hands if gloved. If you happen to get stung in 
the meanwhile remove the sting with the point of a penknife or 
with tweezers, as squeezing the base of it with the fingers has the 
effect of ejecting more poison into the wound. Afterwards, firmly 
press the open end of a padlock key over the part, which will force 
the poison out, and then apply a drop of salad oil, laudanum, or 
ammonia, and the smarting sensation will at once cease. This will 
be found a simple cure for stings of other insects. The relief is imme¬ 
diate and complete if done at once, but if delayed five or ten minutes 
it is not so efficacious, as the poison spreads in the meantime, and so 
becomes more difficult to eradicate.” 
This is a fair example of the volume before us both as to style 
and matter, the other chapters embracing the routine of bee 
management being similarly treated. 
BEES AS AIDS TO FRUIT-GROWERS. 
That the nectar in flowers is an aid to their fertilisation, in a 
general way, by inducing insects to distribute the fecundating 
element from the staminate blossoms, by conveying it on their 
bodies during their flights among the flowers while collecting 
the exuding sweets, is evident ; that this is the sole object for 
which nectar is secreted does not seem admissible. 
Pollen is borne from flower to flower on the breeze as well as on 
the bodies of insects ; in fact, that appears to be Nature’s prime 
method of conveying the fertilising germs from the anthers of 
the staminate to the stigmas of the pistillate blossoms. Among 
insects, it seems the honey bee, in her floral wanderings in search 
of nectar and pollen, in consequence of her peculiar form and 
downy covering, should be entitled to a first place in the work of 
direct and cross fertilisation of fruit-producing flowers of all 
kinds ; and were it not for this generous and disinterested aid to 
the chances of Nature, the loss to fruit-growers would be much 
greater every year from sterile bloom. 
That the honey bee causes injury by extracting the nectar 
from fruit-producing trees and shrubs is simply fallacious, not¬ 
withstanding the oft-expressed opinion of those ignorant of Dame 
Nature’s process of reproduction to the contrary. During the 
past two following seasons I have observed Apple trees loaded 
with well-developed matured fruit trees in autumn that bloomed 
several days earlier than the remainder of the orchard, and were 
swarming with bees until the bloom from the other trees shared 
their attention. Two of the trees alluded to stand but a few feet 
from some of my hives, and have always been favourites with the 
bees during the season of bloom, but I have yet to note any 
diminution in their products caused by the bees sipping nectar 
from their blossoms. 
The discussion of the subject of “planting for honey” is re¬ 
ceiving merited attention. Would not a favourable influence be 
exercised by having a space in the bee publications in which 
those who have tested the qualities of honey-producing trees, 
shrubs, and plants of various kinds can be allowed to give their 
experience in detail 1 The names of trees, &c., and their adapta¬ 
bility to location is needed, as the pursuit of the apiarist is 
constantly prompting his attention to the sources from which 
honey is obtained by his bees, who is more favourably situated 
to observe and reduce the results of his observations to utility. 
Again, if properly appreciated, a triple benefit may be derived 
from the result of such a consolidation of effort; a more general 
cultivation of food-producing trees, shrubs, and plants, a more 
bountiful return for apiarian enterprise, and the unequalled ad¬ 
vantages of studying the illustrations of Nature from her open 
book of floral beauty.— J. F. Latham (in American Bee Journal). 
TRADE CATALOGUES RECEIVED. 
T. Woodcock, Woodford Nursery, Berkeley. — List of Bedding 
Plants. 
J. Carter & Co., 237 and 238, High Holborn, London.— List of Mis¬ 
cellaneous Novelties. 
Ant. Roozen Son, Overveen, Holland.— Catalogue of Dutch and 
Cape Bulbs. 
%* AH correspondence should be directed either to “The Editor” 
or to “ The Publisher.” Letters addressed to Dr. Hogg or 
members of the staff often remain unopened unavoidably. We 
request that no one will write privately to any of our correspon¬ 
dents, as doing so subjects them to unjustifiable trouble and 
expense. 
Correspondents should not mix up on the same sheet questions relat¬ 
ing to Gardening and those on Poultry and Bee subjects, and 
should never send more than two or three questions at once. All 
articles intended for insertion should be written on one side of 
the paper only. We cannot reply to questions through the post, 
and we do not undertake to return rejected communications. 
Book ( EueJiaris ).—Mr. B. S. Williams’ work on “ Choice Stove and Green¬ 
house Plants” will probably suit you. It is in two volumes: one devoted to 
flowering plants, and the other to fine-foliage plants. The former is 7 s. 6 d , the 
latter 5s., and can be had from the author at the Victoria and Paradise Nur¬ 
series, Upper Holloway. 
Grapes Spotted (B .).—Had you sent a few leaves we might probably be 
able to indicate the cause of the spotting, but without seeing them, and 
especially in absence of any description of the spots, it is impossible to give you 
any useful information on the subject, however willing we may be to do so. 
Melons and Cucumbers Unsatisfactory (T. IF. and C. H.).— It is 
impossible to publish replies in the current issue that would be satisfactory 
either to ourselves or to correspondents to many letters that arrive on Wednes¬ 
day morning ; and, as in those under notice, answers have to be postponed until 
next week. 
Fruit Seeds (J. E.). —The fruit is crushed and placed in water, the pulp 
being separated from the seeds as much as possible, and this and the bad seeds 
float, while the sound seeds fall to the bottom of the vessel when the water and 
residue are strained off. The length of time the fruit remains in the water 
depends entirely on the labour that is bestowed in separating the pulp from the 
seeds. Seeds of Pernettia mucronata are not poisonous to either man or birds. 
Rainfall and Sunshine (A Fifteen-years Subscriber ).—The Secretary of 
the Meteorological Society recommends as the best works for your purpose 
“ Symons’ British Rainfall,” 5s. yearly, and the “ Meteorological Record,” l.t. 
quarterly, both published by E. Stanfoid, Charing Cross. We have yearly 
volumes of the former publication, and they include averages of rainfall during 
preceding years ; and if, as there is little doubt, the other work gives averages 
of sunshine, a year’s issue of the work would probably give you all the informa¬ 
tion you require. 
Double Wallflowers Bearing Seed (A. C. S.).— You probably have 
some of the German strains, the flowers of vi hich, though appearing full, are not 
so “ double ” that all the essential organs are obliterated. The pistil usually 
remains perfect ; and an anther may be produced upon a petal or an ordinary 
stamen, as often cccurs in flowers of this kind. 
Holly Leaves Falling (T. F. IF., Deal ).—“ Can you tell me the reason of 
some of our R oily trees dropping their leaves ? They are fine trees and have 
always done well, but this year several of them have lost every leaf, and the 
stems are quite bare of leaves. They cannot be dead, as they have blossom on 
them.” Not being able to answer your query to our own satisfaction we print 
it in case any of our readers can give information on the matter. We know, of 
course, that Hollies usually cast a number of leaves in the spring and early sum¬ 
mer when new growth is being made ; but it is a different thing for “several ” 
of them to lose “ all their leaves,” and the difference, we suspect, can only be 
traced to some local circumstances. You afford us no data whatever for form¬ 
ing an opinion on the matter, but some of our readers may have had experience 
similar to your own, and have determined the cause ot the defoliation. The 
plant of which you have sent a much-dried spray is, we think, Lycium africanum. 
Orange Fungus on Roses (IF. II. IF.).—Your Roses are attacked by 
this unwelcome parasite. Sulphur is the orthodox remedy, and may either be 
dusted on the foliage when it is wet, or mixed in a solution of soft soap to the 
consistency of thin cream and applied with a syringe. It may remain on for a 
day or two and then be washed off. It will not injure the leaves, but will check 
the growth of the fungus if it does not destroy it; at the same time apply liquid 
manure copiously to the roots. A cleaner method of proceeding would be to 
apply Ewing’s mildew composition through a spray-distributor. There is yet 
another method described in the “ Gardener’s Year-Book ”—namely, sponge the 
leaves with 2 ozs. of blue vitriol (sulphate of copper) dissolved in hot water, and 
added to two gallons of cold water. Adopt whichever plan is most convenient, 
and if one fails try the other, but do not forget to afford the Roses adequate 
support at the roots. 
Watering Gardens (Nemo).— By far the best time for watering flowers 
and outdoor crops generally in summer is the evening, as, if the water is applied 
in the morning, especially in bright weather, the sun will not only extract much 
of the moisture from the soil, but this cannot occur without a loss of heat also. 
It is on this account that daily sprinklings are worse than useless—dangerous. 
The most effectual method of applying water is to wait until it is really needed, 
and then give sufficient to penetrate quite below the roots, and the next morn¬ 
ing as soon as the surface is sufficiently dry run the hoe through it to break the 
lines of evaporation. If this is not done the surface will shrink in drying and 
form innumerable fissures, through which both the moisture and warmth of the 
earth will be extracted by the sun. A loose and dusty surface is valuable for 
arresting evaporation and preserving moisture in the soil in hot dry weather. 
The l,oe, therefore, should always follow the waterpot, and water that has been 
exposed to th - air for some time is much better than that drawn from wells and 
used immediately. 
Ghent Azalea Leaves Turning Brown (C. D.). —It is not unusual 
for the leaves to assume a brown or bronzy hue as the growth matures, and, pro¬ 
vided there is no actual scorching, little or no injury is done to the plants. The 
