482 
JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
[ June 7, 1883. 
leaves you have sent are slightly scorched, and it is not unlikely that the plant 
at some time or other has been too dry at the roots. As it lias not been repotted 
for a year the pot either is or ought to be crowded with roots, and very copious 
supplies of water, especially in bright weather, will be requisite for affording 
ndequate support to the plant. The roots of Azaleas are very small, even hair¬ 
like in character, and if they are allowed to become quite dry for an hour they 
shrivel, and a check is given to the plants from which they do not soon recover. 
Probably the best plan will be to stand your plant in the open air, if possible 
behind a wall or building, not under trees, where it will be shaded from the sun 
from 10 A.M. to 4 p.m. for a month, then assign it a sunny position to ripen the 
growths. But the roots must be kept moist always, and to prevent the soil dry¬ 
ing quickly the pot should either be plunged to its rim in ashes or soil, or sunk 
in a larger pot. If plunged in the soil let it stand on a smaller pot, so that 
worms will not have access to the roots of the plant. 
Jasminum grandiflorum Unhealthy (/dem ).—In all probability the 
plant was prepared in a house in which the atmosphere was less dry than that of 
your greenhouse, and the change in this respect to which the plant has been sub¬ 
jected would affect the colour of the leaves. It is not unlikely, too, that you 
erred in repotting the plant so soon. It ought at least to have been permitted 
to become acclimatised—inured to the change in its new quarters before suffer¬ 
ing any disturbance of the roots. The practice of repotting plants as soon as 
they arrive from nurseries is not, generally speaking, a safe one. Some plants 
may need it, but the majority do not, and not a few are seriously injured by 
endeavouring to improve them so soon. It is not possible for any book to give 
precise information as to the exact time a plant should be potted. General 
rules and vain ible hints are given in most practical works, such as the one to 
which you refer ; but much necessarily depends on the judgment of the operator 
as to the time and manner of carrying out the instructions. The soil surround¬ 
ing the roots of your plant may either have been too dry or too wet when the 
repotting was done, and there may have been some error in watering it since, as 
there has been, we suspect, in allowing it “plenty of air,” as this may have 
amounted to a draught or dry current, which with the bright sun that has pre¬ 
vailed has extracted the moisture from the leaves faster than it could be sup¬ 
plied by the disturbed and comparatively torpid roots. It is always a safe 
practice to keep a newly potted plant a little close for a time, syringing and 
shading it according to the state of the weather, to aid the roots to take posses¬ 
sion of the fresh soil. Then, and not till then, allow “ plenty of sun and air.” 
You had better syringe your plant twice a day at least, and shade it so long as 
the bright weather continues, and with judicious watering and removing the 
withered growths it will, we think, soon recover. 
Diplacus glutinosus (E. if.). —The plant, of which a spray was sent, is 
not a Pentstemon, but Diplacus glutinosus, a useful member of the Scrophularia 
family, producing its orange-coloured flowers freely, and proving very service¬ 
able in a conservatory. It is a native of California, whence it was introduced 
to this country about the year 1794, and is therefore quite an old inhabitant of 
English gardens, yet no other plant is so frequently sent to us for name as this. 
A compost of fibrous loam, peat, and sand, with a little well-decayed manure or 
leaf soil in place of the peat, suits it well, and the plant may be increased either 
by seeds or cuttings, the latter striking freely in sandy soil under a bellglass 
plunged in heat. D. puniceus, also from California, is a handsome form with 
scarlet flowers, and there are several other varieties differing in the colour of the 
flowers. 
Dismissal of Gardener (.V.).—We print the query in this case in order 
that our reply may be better understood and more generally useful to a large 
number of persons who are interested in the matter :—“ Can a master legally 
demand a head gardener to leave his situation and turn out of his cottage iu 
two weeks ? The gardener is paid fortnightly. No charge whatever is brought 
against him as to honesty, sobriety, civility, or ability. The only complaint is 
that the garden is untidy.” In the absence of any special agreement to the 
contrary a master can dismiss a servant on giving him a week’s notice if he is 
paid weekly, a fortnight’s notice if he is paid fortnightly, a month’s notice if he 
is paid monthly, and so on, without assigning any reason whatever for doing so ; 
and the gardener must also leave the cottage if it is a part of his wages and on 
the master’s premises, as is probably so in this case, or if the master pays rent 
for it off his premises. A gardener can also leave his situation and cottage on 
the same terms. 
Disfigured Leaves on Damson (J. W. if). —These have a crop of ex¬ 
crescences or galls, two kinds of which occur upon various Plums in early sum¬ 
mer. One kind is caused by the maggot of a minute fly of the Cecidomyia 
family, the other arises from a gall mite, an insect allied to the well-known red 
spider, but still smaller. Yonr tree appears to have been visited by the latter 
species, Phytoptus Pruni. We regret to state that no remedy has at present 
been discovered applicable to such cases. It has been conjectured that the gall 
mites only attack shrubs or trees already in an unhealthy state; but on this 
point opinions are not at all unanimous, and the specimens you sent appeared 
healthy. In the case of small bush and pyramid trees the foliage might be 
rendered distasteful to the insects by syringing with quassia water, but orchard 
standards could not be so conveniently treated. 
Silicate of Potash ( J. E.). —Yonr question is one that should be addressed 
to a chemical paper. Silicate of potash is very seldom, if ever, used as a manure, 
and so far as we know is not in the market as such. Cameron says that 
although it has been used in agriculture with a view to the strengthening of 
the straw, it is quite useless for that purpose. Silica is regarded as not essential 
as a plant-food, but it is supposed that at finds its way into the plant as silicate 
of potash. The potash is then used, and the silica deposited as a superfluity. 
Johnson says that when potash, soda, and silica are melted together a soluble 
glass is formed, and this he recommends. Much of the potash present in ordinary 
soil is in the form of the silicate. Some chemists have considered that this is 
rendered more available when hot lime is applied to the soil—the lime liberating 
the potash. If you intend applying silicate of potash sprinkle it over the sur¬ 
face and fork it in to where the roots can reach it. But when and under what 
conditions do you procure the compound ? 
Planting Vines (W. if ).—We are very willing to advise you, but there is 
one point oia which we have no means of forming an opinion, and that is the 
nature and condition of the soil in the border. On this point you will act 
wisely by inviting some good Grape-grower to inspect it. Mr. Holmes, Sisters 
House, Clapham Common, is very competent and not far distant, and we feel 
sure wou'd give you good advice. With the addition of bones the border might 
be made suitable; but if you have any doubt on the point, and can obtain good 
fresh loam, you would not err by using it. We prefer a border made in sections, 
a width of 3 feet being ample the first year, the front being formed with turves. 
The house you say will be ready in July. If our object were the production of a 
good supply of Grapes in the quickest time we should plant immediately the 
house is ready—that is, if we could obtain healthy free-growing Vines in a fresh 
uninjured state. As the best way of insuring this we should procure stout 
young plants now in 7-inch pots, going to a nursery and selecting them. These 
should be, say, 4 feet high, and ready for shifting into 9-inch pots on aiTival. If 
the Vines were larger we should not object, but the smaller they are the better 
they travel, and a small plant uninjured is better than a large one much 
damaged. By the time the house is ready the Vines would be ready for another 
shift, and this would be into the border, placing them there with the same care 
as if transferring to larger pots—that is, taking great care that the soil in the 
pots is sufficiently moist, and not disturbing the roots needlessly, the soil of the 
border to be also in a healthy state as to moisture. Planting two Vines 18 inches 
from the ends of the house there would be room for seven others a trifle more 
than 3 feet 6 inches apart. Lady Downe’s Seedling is probably the best late 
Grape, but if large bunches and berries are of especial importance you will 
find the Black Alicante and Gros Colman worth growing. The Muscat of 
Alexandria will succeed with these, but the fruit will not keep so long, yet one 
or two Vines of it ought to be included in your collection. The latest white 
Grape is, perhaps, the Trebbiauo, which produces large bunches and medium¬ 
sized berries. You ask for well-proved Grapes that may be ea-ily grown. Such 
we have named, and the number of each to plant can only be rightly determined 
by the particular requirements of your employer. If the chief object, as your 
letter appears to indicate, is the production of large bunches and berries, then 
the two varieties specially mentioned will be the most likely to afford thetn. The 
Muscat of Alexandria might probably succeed at the warm end of the second 
house ; but as you do not state what varieties you grow there we are not able to 
say. If you plant Vines in the summer you must afford heat, moisture, and 
ventilation as if growing tender stove plants, increasing the ventilation and 
decreasing the moisture as the autumn approaches, but not materially decreas¬ 
ing the heat, for ripening the wood. You would find two additional rows of 
pipes advantageous. In addition to the Vines named you may, of course, have 
supernumeraries, either planted out or fruited iu pots, if Grapes are required 
next year. 
Names of Plants (T. O'G.). —Your plant is not an Arabis, but Aubrietia 
purpurea or one of its varieties. ( Loxlry). —Arrhenatherum avenaceum, Knotted 
Oat Grass. The root is natural, but there is another form with simply fibrous 
roots. (IF. C.). — 1, Saxifraga ceratophylla, Stag's-horn Saxifrage; 2, Saxifraga 
hypnoides, Mossy Cushion Saxifrage ; 3, Choerophyllum sylvestre, Cow Parsley ; 
4, Bunium flexuosum, common Earth Nut; 5, Stellaria holostea, Hedge Stitch- 
W'ort; 6, Barbarea vulgaris, Yellow Rocket, grown as a salad, and known in 
gardens as Americau Cress. (Aurora). —1, Myosotis dissitiflora (true); 2, M. 
palustris ; 3, M. sylvatica. (J. J.. Lancashire). —The Odontoglossum Alexandras 
is fairly good, but not superior to many others in cultivation. The other 
Odontoglossum is 0. luteo-purpureum, and the Oncidium, 0. unicorne. Your 
plant of Utricularia montana is fine, but we have seen others equally good or 
superior. (H.C.M.). —31, Melica uniflora, One-flowered Melic Grass; this is a 
pretty Grass, and useful for winter decoration ; 32, Luzula pilosa, Little Hairy 
Wood Rush, intermixed with No. 31 ; 33, Poa prateusis, var. subeserulea, a 
bluish form of the common Meadow Grass ; 34, Carex sylvatica. Wood Sedge ; 
35, Anthoxanthum odoratum, Sweet-scented Vernal Grass. (It. L. K ).— Fuchsia 
procumbens. 
COVENT GARDEN MARKET.— JUNE 6th. 
A brisk business doing during the week, all classes of goods being cleared 
readily, and prices well maintained. 
FRUIT. 
s. 
d. 
8. 
d. 
Apples. 
2 
0to7 
0 
per barrel 20 
0 
40 
0 
Apricots. 
. doz. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cherries. 
. * sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Chestnnts. 
. bushel 10 
0 
12 
0 
Currants, Black. 
. j sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
„ Red... 
. i sieve 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Figs. 
dozen 
4 
0 
6 
0 
Filberts. 
lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Cobs. 
. 100 lb. 
0 
0 
0 
0 
Gooseberries ... 
4 sieve 
6 
0 
7 
0 
VEGET 
S 
d. 
S. 
d. 
Artichokes. 
2 
0to4 
0 
Asparagus, English bundle 
3 
0 
6 
0 
Asparagus, French bundle 
2 
0 
8. 
0 
Beans, Kidney .. 
100 
2 
0 
0 
0 
Beet, Red. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Broccoli. 
0 
9 
1 
6 
Cabbage . 
0 
6 
1 
0 
Capsicums. 
100 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Carrots . 
0 
4 
0 
0 
Cauliflowers .... 
2 
0 
3 
0 
Celery. 
1 
6 
2 
0 
Coleworts_doz. bunches 
2 
0 
4 
0 
Cucumbers. 
0 
4 
0 
8 
Endive. 
1 
0 
2 
0 
Fennel. 
0 
3 
0 
0 
Herbs . 
0 
2 
0 
0 
Leeks. 
0 
3 
0 
4 
Lettuces . 
1 
0 
i 
6 
s. d. s. d 
Grapes . Ib. 3 OtoC 0 
Lemons. case 10 0 20 0 
Nectarines. dozen 12 0 13 0 
Oranges . loo 6 0 10 0 
Peaches . dozeD 18 0 21 0 
Pears,kitchen .. dozen 0 0 0 0 
dessert. dozen 0 0 0 0 
Pine Apples, English fib. 4 0 5 0 
Raspberries. lb. 0 0 0 0 
Strawberries .... Ib. 4 0 6 0 
ABLES. 
s. d. s. d 
Mushrooms .punnet 1 Otol 8 
Mustard & Cress .. punnet 0 2 0 8 
Onions. bushel 2 6 3 6 
Parsley. doz. bunches 3 0 4 0 
Parsnips. dozen 10 2 0 
Peas . quart 3 6 0 0 
Potatoes, New .... lb. o 2 0 4 
Potatoes. cwt. 6 0 10 0 
Kidney. cwt. 6 0 10 0 
Radishes.... doz.bunches 10 0 0 
Rhubarb. bundle 0 4 0 0 
Salsafy. bundle 10 0 0 
Scorzonera . bundle 16 0 0 
Seakale . basket 0 0 0 0 
Shallots. lb. o 3 0 0 
Spinach . bushel 2 6 3 0 
Tomatoes . lb. l 0 16 
Turnips . bnnch 0 2 0 3 
POULTRY AND PIGEON CHRONICLE. 
EAY-SAVING BY MACHINERY. 
(Continued from page 481.) 
The next machine to which we shall refer is an important one, 
not only for what can be accomplished by it as ma le and offered 
