JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
486 
[ June 14, 1883. 
soil on the surface. For this reason the soil should he 
thoroughly hoed, and that repeatedly, especially after 
watering. 
The watering-can in inexperienced hands is a source 
of much mischief. It looks so nice in the stilly even¬ 
ing to have the surface of the ground all dark with 
damp, that the temptation to sprinkle is too much for 
many. Either a soaking that will penetrate a foot at 
least or nothing should he given. Then the surface 
should be stirred as soon as dry enough, unless otherwise 
protected by mulching. Dribbling the surface is worse 
than drought. It robs the soil of heat and stops the 
growth of the plant. It entices the roots to the surface 
only to be killed. 
When water is applied it is of much service to have 
it exposed some time previously to the sun and air. 
Pond or river water is undoubtedly best, but many 
places are supplied by springs and deep wells. Such 
water is always cold, and when applied cold it gives a 
severe check. Soft water is known to be best, and ex¬ 
posure not only warms but softens it. When tanks 
cannot be provided for this purpose it would pay to pass 
the water through an ordinary heating boiler, under 
which burnt a good fire, especially when the water is 
to be applied to Vine or Peach borders. In the case of 
Melons, the cans if stood in the house or frame wall 
enable the water to attain a suitable temperature in an 
hour or two. 
When the soil is moist, or made so and kept so, 
plants use the food at their disposal rapidly, and in 
the sunshine turn the feeding to good purpose. In dull 
wet w r eatlier richness does mischief often. In hot 
weather it is turned to riches. In gloomy years plant 
food plentifully applied runs into a plenitude of shoots 
and leaves. When the sun is out it is turned to fruit 
for this year, and fruit buds for next. For this reason 
it is good to help flagging trees now, not only with 
water, but water with “ a cinder in it.” Stable drain¬ 
age, sewage, guano water, nitrate or ammonia salts 
applied to fruit trees and bushes now will well repay 
in due season. 
In applying water to fruit trees it is well to remove 
an inch or so of soil and to form a basin rim with it; 
then fork another inch, and flood with liquid manure 
the plants needing assistance. Afterwards return the 
removed soil, it will act as a mulch; or, better, mulch 
thickly with manure. 
Under the hot sun and drying winds fruit trees under 
glass evaporate with extreme rapidity. It is well to 
remember that the harder the pump-handle is plied the 
sooner the well goes dry; and it may be worth mention 
that soils which furnish food in abundance are not so 
much “ drawn on ” as others. Feed a man on rice or 
Potatoes and he must consume large quantities. Feed 
plants on water with hardly traces of the food they 
want, and they will try to make up for it by passing 
greater quantities through their system. This fact 
accounts for the chronic drought from which starved 
fields suffer. 
In battling with heat and drought, then, we should 
aim at securing that texture of soil which best favours 
retention of water and maintains the greatest capillary 
power. To soak thoroughly and avoid dribbling ; to have 
as strong plants to put out as possible, to injure none 
of their roots in the process, and to apply the water 
under the surface ; to mulch whenever practicable, and 
with the best material at command, be it only loose 
earth; to seize such opportunities for administering 
food when possible, and to remember that often enough 
it is not so much water as nitrogen that is wanted, as 
well as, perhaps, other food ; and last, not least, that 
under a bright sun plants work rapidly, maturing the 
present crop and storing matter, if properly fed, for the 
crops of the future.—S ingle-handed. 
CULTURE OF KAL0SANT1IES COCCINEA. 
Taking into consideration all the good qualities possessedby 
this beautiful sweet-scented greenhouse plant, it is surprising 
that it is not more frequently met with in a condition credit¬ 
able to the cultivator. Under good cultivation its habit is close 
and compact, producing a profusion of bright flowers which 
contrasts well with the deep green foliage. Although it is of 
too stiff a character to be useful for cutting (an indispensable 
quality with many) still, when it is grouped with other plants 
in the conservatory, or associated with Ferns and foliage plants 
for house decoration, it is generally admired. 
The ease with which it is propagated, the short time required 
to grow it to a serviceable size, and its comparative immunity 
from the attacks of insects, ought to commend it to every 
gardener who has a conservatory to furnish or a house to 
decorate. In the general rage for “ something new,” old 
plants are too apt to be thrust aside and get but little at¬ 
tention, and so gradually creep into disrepute ; and when such 
is the case it takes some little effort to again bring them into 
popular favour. Allow me to contribute my mite towards 
rescuing this beautiful old-fashioned plant from the depths of 
the •' neglected list.” In doing so I shall only be seconding 
the efforts of your correspondent “A. Y.” in your issue of 
April 5th, page 282, who has anticipated my note on this 
subject, and with whose cultural directions I generally agree. 
Propagation .—This is too often recommended to be done in 
August. It roots freely at any season, but I think the best 
time is from the middle of March to the middle of May, or 
as soon as convenient after the bloom is visible in the tips of 
the shoots. Select shoots that have failed to bloom and take 
them off close to the old wood. Trim a few of the bottom 
leaves off and insert them singly into thumb pots, or five into a 
large 60. Use a mixture of libry loam and peat, or loam and 
leaf soil, with a good dash of sharp sand. Water well, and 
place in a warm moist atmosphere for about three weeks, when 
they will be rooted sufficiently to be removed to cooler quarters 
—a shelf near the glass in a greenhouse or Peach house, where 
they may remain till they fill their pots with roots. 
Summer Treatment .—About the beginning of June the young 
plants should be shifted into a size larger pots, the single plants 
into 4^-inch, and those with five cuttings into 5-inch pots, 
using the same compost, but in a rougher state, and with less 
sand in it. Drain the pots well, and place a little moss over 
the crocks to keep them clear of soil. The plants may then be 
placed in a close frame till they have well rooted into the fresh 
soil, then gradually harden off. After this our practice is to 
plunge them out in coal ashes, giving them exactly the same 
treatment as winter-flowering Pelargoniums. Those, however, 
who have a very heavy rainfall to contend with should have 
them in frames, or a sash placed over them to throw off the 
heavy showers, exposing fully in dry weather. As soon as 
required each plant should have a small stick to it, to keep 
it upright and prevent its being broken. 
Most writers on the Kalosanthes recommend the young 
shoots to be pinched. I have proved this to be quite un¬ 
necessary ; in fact it tends to make a rather stiff plant, more 
formal than it would be if left to its natural growth. Allow 
the plants that have been potted singly to grow without 
stopping. Those intended for larger plants, the four plants 
round the outside of the pot may be stopped early in July, 
but train the centre plant to a stick without stopping. They 
will thus produce free natural pyramids, clothed with flowers 
to the edge of the pots. 
Excepting that they should be carefully watered, but little 
attention is necessary till they are housed for the winter at the 
end of September or beginning of October. They should then 
