JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
June 14, 1883. ] 
495 
glass at 98°, is not one of your special enjoyments, you won’t 
enjoy budding Manetti. 
Well, all is ready, and buds got, nice plump ones. In getting 
buds, nice balf-ripe shoots full of good buds should be taken where 
Fig. 111.—How to hold the bud when pulling out the wood. As the bark and 
wood separate slip the third fingers of both hands downwards gradually till the 
end is reached ; by so doing the bark will hardly ever break. 
they can best be spared. I have been asked, “ Do you cut the 
buds one at a time off the wood, or cut lengths of wood with 
several buds on 1 ” Of course the latter (see piece of Rose shoot 
with buds (fig. 109, a )—I remember the time when I didn’t know 
—set the shoots in a small can with an inch of water to keep them 
fresh ; clear away the earth from your stocks—don’t clear too 
many at once, as the bark soon dies and then wo’n’t work so 
well—down, or nearly down, to the roots; just rub your thumb 
and finger round the stock to clear from soil and thorns ; make a 
cross T-cut (fig. 109, &), and insert the buds as in fig. 110, a ; tie 
in the regular way (fig. 110, b), and in about a month the cotton 
may be removed. Should any buds have missed, insert others at 
once just below where the first was put in. You may do this till 
quite the second week in October if the weather is warm, which 
it generally is, with a very good chance of the bud taking. 
Oh ! ah !—there now ! I have forgotten I am writing this ex¬ 
pressly for those who do not know. I well remember, when I 
Fig. 112.—Stock with growing bud in May; top of stock properly cut off. 
began, the annoyance and vexation it was to me to find almost 
all writers “ presume ” that everyone knows such and such a thing 
as to the minor details, and that was the very information I wanted, 
and I have not said a word about preparing and inserting the 
buds. Well, then, get good shoots of the sorts you are going to 
bud, with plenty of “ fat frog-nose ” shaped buds, such shoots as 
have borne flowers, or are about to do so; often these latter yield 
the best buds, as the former will have sometimes started, or even 
blind shoots— i.e., those without flower buds, if they are not too 
gross and strong, or unripe and pithy. Medium-sized shoots are 
best, about the thickness of a “ churchwarden clay ” pipe-stem. 
As soon after you get the Rose shoot with buds I advise cutting 
off the leaves, so as to leave the footstalk only (see fig. 109, a ), 
as by leaving the leaves on, the bark of the shoot is much sooner 
shrivelled-up through evaporation than if the leaves are cut off, as 
there shown, and will keep plump and fresh much longer. Cut 
out the bud, as in fig. 109, a and c, with a thin slice of wood, and 
in budding Manetti you want a longer heel to the bud than for 
the Briar. Cut the bud with the bark about an inch long, about 
two-thirds above the bud, and one-third below ; remove the wood 
as in fig. 111. I cannot explain it, but take the bud in the left 
hand as shown there, take hold of the wood with the nails of the 
right thumb and finger, and pull it out. Do it without fear, and 
boldly, and you will not spoil one in a hundred. Now make a 
cut in the bark of the stock, as in fig. 109, b, with a cross-cut— 
mind your knife is always very 6harp—lift the bark with the back 
of your budding knife, and insert the bud, as shown in fig. 110, a, 
Push it well home ; cut off level with the cross cut, so that the 
bark may fit well with that of the stock ; tie with candle cotton, 
not too tight, and tie with the knot behind, on the opposite side 
to where the bud is inserted (fig. 110, b.) 
I have been asked, “ Should the earth be returned, so as to 
cover the stocks as before budding 1 Should the stocks be pruned 
or shortened now ? ” No, to both questions ; leave them as they 
are, and the stronger they grow now the better plants you will 
get next year. In September and the following months to the 
close of the year, but the sooner the better, the shoots may be cut 
Fig. 113.—Finished plant, to be planted 4 inches above the junction of stock 
and scion, or to dotted line, a, How to cut back in March. 
from the budded stocks to make cuttings as before, otherwise do 
not meddle with them till April, and then go over them often, 
and keep down the new shoots that the Manetti will be numerously 
and vigorously making. By that means the bud will be induced 
to start, if it has not done so already, and when grown G inches or 
more in May, cut the stock clean off just above the bud (see 
fig. 112). The cleaner this is done the better, although the 
Manetti stands rougher treatment than the Briar, and so is not of 
so much consequence. I even towards the end of May cut down 
those whose buds have not started, and so either make them start 
or kill them, for a Manetti plant in a row of new-budded stuff is 
such a nuisance, it grows at such a rate as to smother the young 
plants right and left. Where any buds have missed altogether I 
pull up the stocks to avoid the evil consequences of their great 
growth, as, when you are well off for stocks, a few are of no great 
note, especially when not wanted. Carefully remove any suckers 
that may appear, as, let the cuttings be ever so well prepared, a 
