June 2i, 1883. ] JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 509 
are adapted for the purposes and positions indicated, and may 
be useful to some readers. 
Twelve Camellias of Compact Habit, which Flower Freely 
in a Small State. —Old Double White, still one of the most 
useful ; L’Insubria, deep clear red striped with white ; Fim- 
briata, white—a charming variety of long-proved excellence ; 
Countess of Orkney, white, often slightly flaked with crimson ; 
Lavinia Maggii, white, broadly flaked with carnation ; Monti- 
roni, white—Madame Lebois, crimson, perfect shape ; Angus- 
tina Superba, pink, large and fine ; Henri Favre, deep pink or 
rose ; Comte Boutanlin, rosy crimson shaded, large and fine ; 
Eafia, very dark crimson, fine ; Comtesse Hainault, blush 
with peach base, fine shape and lovely colour. 
Twelve Camellias, good for Specimens in Tubs or Pots or 
for Planting Out. —Old Double White ; Imbricata, crimson ; 
Countess of Derby, blush white broadly flaked with rose ; 
Conspicua, rose, semi-double, fine large thick petals, very 
showy ; .Donckelaarii, crimson flaked with white, semi-double 
blooms in grand masses ; Emilia Campioni, red with white 
stripes ; Monarch, fine crimson, very large ; Belle Jeannette, 
crimson banded with white ; Marchioness of Exeter, deep soft 
rose, makes a splendid tree ; Benneyi, red, sometimes striped 
with white ; Eugene Massina, rose, white border, beautifully 
shaded ; Duchesse d’Orleans, flesh colour beautifully flaked 
with crimson. 
Twelve Camellias, Free-growing and Free-flowering Varie¬ 
ties, suitable for Covering the Bach Walls of Vineries or 
Peach Houses. —Ninfa Egeria, white, very free and pure ; 
Elegans, pink ; Heine des Fleurs, fine dark red ; Lucretia 
Gazzarino, rose banded with white ; Cup of Beauty, blush 
white flaked with crimson ; Beali, fine scarlet-crimson ; 
Mathotiana alba, fine white ; L’Avenir, bright rose ; Bose 
la Beine, crimson, occasionally striped with white ; C. M. 
Hovey, scarlet-crimson ; Livia Borromeo, rose colour with 
broad white stripe ; Baron de Vriere, peach, faint white stripe. 
Camellias that are quite healthy, have made their growth and 
set their buds, no longer require a close moist atmosphere, but 
on the contrary, light, without fierce sun, is requisite for 
maturing the growths. Camellias should not be placed in the 
open air until the buds are set, and then especial care must be 
taken to supply the plants with the requisite quantity of 
moisture, also to prevent worms entering the pots.—J. W. 
WATEBING VEGETABLES. 
Throughout June, July, and August many kinds of vege¬ 
tables are much benefited through being well watered at the 
roots. In rich ground with plenty of rain and heat everything 
will come quickly to maturity ; but although we generally have 
sufficient heat for vegetables the requisite moisture is often 
wanting, and it is this which requires attention. 
Beally good well-flavoured vegetables are never produced in 
a dry soil, especially if the soil is poor. There are various 
ways of watering, and some crops require more than others. 
Celery, for instance, can hardly be overwatered, and Peas and 
small salading may be largely supplied with advantage in hot 
weather. Some of our William I. Peas which were ready for 
gathering a week ago would have been soon over if we had 
not watered them copiously, thus securing better filled pods 
and a longer continuance of them. Flavour, too, is secured by 
watering in such cases, as the Peas are more juicy and sweet 
than when starved. We hardly ever water Peas or Beans 
unless they are in bloom or pod, but Celery is watered from 
the first day it is put in the trenches until it has been earthed 
up at least once, and it is very rare that a plant bolts or 
seeds prematurely. 
In very dry weather Cauliflowers, Brussels Sprouts, and 
Broccoli are watered as soon as they are planted, and this is 
repeated if occasion requires until they commence growing, 
when watering ceases. Lettuce just beginning to turn in are 
well soaked once a week or so. Potatoes are never watered, 
and they come as quick and of better quality when the soil is 
dry. Vegetable Marrows and ridge Cucumbers on mounds 
have large quantities given them, and Carrots and Parsley in 
small quantities have unstinted supplies. Badishes in dry soil 
can only be had sweet and crisp by constant attention to 
watering. They are sometimes watered before beginning to 
bulb, but as a rule it is only when maturity is approaching 
that water is most wanted. 
In all cases where young plants are inserted only clean water 
is used, but in watering to increase and prolong the crop liquid 
manure is given. This may consist of drainings from stables, 
cattle sheds, or manure heaps, or may be made of artificial 
manure, such as guano ; one small handful of guano dissolved 
in 4 gallons of water makes an excellent stimulant. Soot tied 
up in a bag and soaked in a water tank soon makes the water 
most valuable for applying to all kinds of vegetables, particu¬ 
larly those liable to be injured by grubs or insects. 
_ In watering vegetables for exhibition liquid manure may be 
given every other day in dry weather. Some who are anxious 
to gain size and rapid perfection are very apt to give 
liquid manure too strong, but it is much safer to give it mode¬ 
rate in strength and frequently than check growth altogether 
by poisoning the roots. Unions, Globe Artichokes, and Broad 
Beans will bear high feeding. 
Where mulching can be practised in connection with water¬ 
ing the benefits will be increased. The best way is to water 
thoroughly, and then mulch immediately afterwards to prevent 
evaporation. Where mulching has been done water may be 
applied all the same, as it will wash down the good properties 
of the manure to the roots, but any crop that is mulched never 
requires w’ater so often as crops in bare open soil. Many object 
to water vegetables generally, and so do we unless they really 
want it, but it is an unprofitable mistake to carry the non¬ 
watering idea too far. We also object most decidedly to sur¬ 
face sprinklings. This is absolutely bad practice and cannot 
be too severely condemned. It is deceptive in every way. A 
wet surface and dryness underneath is ruinous to plants in¬ 
doors and in the open air alike, and it is infinitely better to 
thoroughly saturate the ground once a fortnight than wet the 
surface every day. In the former case roots, leaves, and fruit 
are all stimulated, but with the latter they remain unchanged 
for the better, indeed are often made worse.—J. Muir, 
Margam. 
BOSES ON THEIR OWN ROOTS. 
“ A. F. M.” is an agreeable controversialist, even his good- 
natured cynicism of getting budding knives cheap is agreeable. 
He is a doughty champion of worked Boses, but which I think no 
one has assailed as such. No one asserts that Boses worked on 
the Manetti and Briar stocks and grown in good soil will not 
produce grand blooms ; my contention is that not three nor even 
eighteen only, but the majority of Hybrid Perpetuals, will pro¬ 
duce equally fine examples on their own roots in similarly good 
soil. I venture to affirm, too, that when cuttings are so plentiful 
as to be burned by barrowloads that good plants can be raised 
from them in less time than equally fine examples worked on the 
Manetti, dating from the time the cuttings of the latter are 
inserted, for I presume they must be struck before they become 
stocks. If “ A. F. M.” will not admit this, on what just and fair 
ground does he base his argument ? Weak growers are assisted 
by being worked on stronger stocks, but the good growers, and 
they are the majority, are not improved by any stock ; and, more¬ 
over, I have found, not once nor twice only, but many times, that 
cuttings of them strike as freely, as quickly, and as certainly as 
cuttings of Manetti do, both being inserted at the same time and 
manner. 
It is very new to me to be told that we cannot prune (for cut¬ 
tings) in September and October, since I have a very clear 
remembrance of procuring and inserting them for at least a dozen 
years consecutively ; and not only so, but to the advantage of the 
plants from which they were taken. The summer and early autumn 
pruning, or thinning out superfluous shoots of Roses, is too much 
neglected, and it would be better for hundreds of Roses if cuttings 
were taken from them by enabling the wood remaining to be 
better ripened and the buds firmer and bolder, for the best buds 
give the best shoots, and the best shoots the best Boses ; and if we 
can get three “ bests ” from one operation, and a number of fine 
young plants into the bargain, we ought, I think, to be improving. 
There is no question whatever that the quickest method of 
increasing new and scarce varieties is by budding and grafting, 
the latter being the more expeditious mode of increase, at least so 
I have found it; but where cuttings of the strong-growing varieties 
are so plentiful, those who require them may as well convert them 
into plants as destroy them. 
