JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 
June 21, 1883. ] 
523 
to time until the pot is full enough, when a layer of damp moss 
may be placed on top to insure the production of a dense cool 
smoke. The apparatus should be watched from the outside to see 
that no flame breaks forth, and for this purpose it should be quite 
close to the door, so that one may be able to open the door, place 
on a little damp moss if necessary, and be out again before any 
considerable amount of smoke has escaped. Next morning the 
plants should be well syringed, and the ventilators opened in 
time to allow of the moisture being early dried.—J. H. 
WORK/oktheWEEK.. ^ 
[By the most skilful Cultivators in the several Departments.'] 
KITCHEN GARDEN. 
Celery .—This important winter crop should now have the best 
of attention. Many wait in the hope of rain falling, but planting 
should not be delayed too long on account of dryness, as the 
plants may become too large and suffer from overcrowding. 
Where plants are from 4 to 6 inches high they should be put out 
at once, and copious waterings given to them twice or three 
times weekly until they are established or well supplied with rain. 
The trenches should not be more than 6 inches deep, and they 
may be made wide enough to hold from one to half a dozen rows, 
according to the fancy of the grower. We prefer growing only 
two rows in each trench, as the Celery is then most convenient for 
earthing. It is generally understood that plenty of manure is 
necessary to produce the best Celery, but of all manures which 
can be used for the purpose none is equal to that from earth 
closets. 
Broccolis, Brussels Sprouts , and Savoys .—These should be planted 
at every opportunity. Where the plants have been transplanted 
they will now lift with soil adhering to the roots, and if planted 
in this state it will be a great advantage, but where they have 
to be pulled up from the seed bed they must be dibbled in and 
watered immediately afterwards. Such plants are always put out 
by us in the evening, and by the following morning they have 
revived a little, and although they fall down under the influence 
of the sun they do not suffer severely. 
Asparagus .—This is now growing freely, and no more heads 
should be cut after this time. On the first rainy day a surface 
dressing of salt and guano, or salt and soot, should be given, and 
this will keep them growing for the remainder of the season. We 
put a small handful round each root, and it is soon washed down. 
Where the stems are becoming tall and liable to be blown over 
they should be secured to stakes. At present some of our Aspa¬ 
ragus growths are 8 feet high, and we have had to put larch stakes 
to upwards of a thousand plants. The young plants from seed 
sown in spring are now several inches high, and where they are 
crowded the weakest should be drawn out. Frequent hoeings 
must be carried on to prevent the spread of weeds. 
Sealiale and Rhubarb .—These are throwing up flower spikes, 
and unless seed is wanted cut away the flowering shoots as soon 
as they are seen. Tender young Rhubarb may be secured very 
late by drawing the old stems off now and causing the roots to 
throw up fresh growths. This is a good way of securing Rhubarb 
in autumn suitable for exhibition. 
Tomatoes .—These are getting over their first strong flush of 
growth, and as their rooting space becomes filled we find them 
more disposed to form fruit than run to wood. If any which 
have outgrown the positions are cut down and allowed to grow 
up again they will produce a very satisfactory second crop. 
Where the crop is excessive some of the most forward of the 
green fruits may be cut off and hung up to ripen in a dry warm 
place. Later fruits will then come forward quicker and finer in 
quality than would otherwise be the case. Outdoor plants grow¬ 
ing against walls should only be allowed one stem, as superfluous 
growth retards fruiting. 
Crops Failing .—It will now be seen if any of the main vegetable 
crops are likely to fail, and if any indication of this is shown 
sow more of the same at once, and with a favourable soil and 
situation a serviceable crop may be secured before winter sets in. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Figs .—The second crop in the early house will now have 
attained a good size, and judiciously thinned the trees will swell off 
a full crop of fine fruit, the foliage of course being kept free from 
insects, and the roots well supplied with nutriment. Second crops 
of Figs as a rule do not require much artificial heat, but during 
cold sunless weather it is absolutely necessary not only by night, 
but frequently in the daytime ; and as moisture alone does not 
always keep red spider in check, an insecticide or the use of 
sulphur on the pipes must be resorted to, and before the pest ha3 
obtained a firm hold. Borders that were allowed to become some¬ 
what dry during the ripening of the first crop of fruit must be 
brought into a thoroughly moist condition by repeated waterings 
through a good mulching material. If the second crop needs 
further thinning it ought now to be attended to, and where there 
are succession houses to follow choice should be made of the most 
forward fruit growing near the base of the shoots, as they ripen 
first, and give more time for the young growths and the trees to 
be rested early in the autumn. Syringe freely twice a day in fine 
weather. Commence ventilating early on fine mornings, and close 
at 80° or 85° with sun heat. With the fruit changing colour in 
succession houses more air should be given with a gradual 
reduction of moisture, exposing the fruit to the influence of the 
sun as much as possible. Attend to tying and stopping in late 
houses, keeping work of this kind well in hand, guarding against 
crowding the young growths, and allowing room for the access of 
light and air. 
Peaches and Nectarines .—In the early house some careful treat¬ 
ment is necessary for some time after all the crop is gathered. The 
trees so soon as the fruit is all off should be thoroughly cleansed 
of insects by frequent washings with the syringe or garden engine, 
and if this is not sufficient an insecticide must be applied, as the 
foliage must be kept clean and healthy. The borders must be 
kept mulched and plentifully supplied with water, and if the trees 
are at all weakly apply liquid manure. All shoots rendered use¬ 
less by the removal of the fruit should be cut out to give place to 
growths of the current year, in order that the buds by exposure 
may be properly formed and ripened. Care must be taken that 
by premature ripening of the foliage the buds do not get too far 
advanced before autumn weather sets in, or they will probably 
flower too early. Ventilation should be liberal, and the entire re¬ 
moval of the lights at the beginning of July will greatly benefit the 
trees. Keep all gross shoots pinched, and side shoots stopped to one 
or two leaves in order to equalise the flow of the sap. Former in¬ 
structions with regard to succession houses—that is, tying and 
regulating the shoots, syringing and ventilation, must have atten¬ 
tion. When the fruit is stoned all that on the under side of the 
trellis should be turned up to the influence of the sun and air so 
as to colour well, as colourless Peaches are not much prized. Trees 
in late houses may now have their final thinning and tying, and in 
the case of unheated houses aim at short-jointed well-ripened 
w r ood, which can only be maintained by occasional autumnal 
root-pruning, free ventilation, and closing early with sun heat. 
Cucumbers .—These are now being produced in such numbers 
that they cause a heavy strain on the plants, and good feeding 
must be attended to. Where the mounds in which the plants 
are growing are completely filled with roots, as will generally 
be the case, a top-dressing of rough rich material composed of 
half loam and half manure should be given. Other plants not 
requiring this addition should have liquid manure twice weekly. 
The leaves and fruit should always be thinned before they crowd 
each other. Where Cucumbers have been bearing for the last three 
months, and are not likely to continue to do so until autumn, 
some young plants should be ready to plant out in a month 
hence. These we raise from cuttings from the old plants, and 
root them in gentle bottom heat, plants so raised being more 
sturdy in growth and earlier in fruiting than seedlings. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Stove. — Crotons .—Young plants that have been rooted from 
time to time will now need attention, and must be transferred 
as they require it into larger pots. The tops of plants rooted 
early in the season and now established in 6-inch pots should, 
if properly treated, be highly coloured and in the best condition 
for decoration. Where plants in larger pots can be employed 
place some of the most promising in pots 2 or 3 inches larger, 
in which noble specimens will be produced, with bold large 
foliage down to the rims of the pots. To have the foliage of 
these plants highly coloured grow them close to the glass and 
fully exposed to the sun. Look diligently after thrips, for if it 
becomes established on these plants their beauty is soon destroyed. 
Draccenas .—From amongst the plants now established in 6-inch 
pots, which is the most suitable size for decoration, select a few 
that possess the best foliage at the base, and place them at once 
in 10-inch pots. Water them carefully at first, and give abundance 
of heat and moisture, and they will with judicious treatment 
develope into useful specimens for the stove. In growing these 
