JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER, 
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526 
[ June 21, 1883. 
photograph—namely, 2 inches in diameter. We must congratulate you on the 
production of this photograph ; it is very beautiful, and most creditable to the 
artist. 
Pinks ( T.. B.). —We have received the flowers, and will refer to them next 
week. 
Cephalanthera ensifolia (J. H., Ayrshire). —This is one of the most lovely 
of the terrestrial Orchids, and is too rare to be lightly disturbed. If the plants 
are on your own property, and there is no danger of their being “ collected,” we 
should hesitate to transplant them, as, unless you have a position in your garden 
similar to that where they are now established, they would almost certainly 
fail to succeed anything like so well as where they are now growing so freely 
and flowering so charmingly. 
Roses Injured (0. Rawlings). —It is absurd to suppose that established 
Roses could be injured by drought in the way of those you have sent. The 
fumes of boiling tar are most injurious to vegetation, and those who cause the 
destruction of property in the manner indicated are, as they ought to be, liable to 
be mulcted in the cost of making good any loss that has been sustained on a 
case being proved against them. 
Ants Eating Rose Buds (E. N). —What is new to you is not so to us. 
We have seen many Roses ruined by ants eating the swelling buds, but why 
they should prefer this kind of food we are unable to say. They are usually first 
attracted by the presence of aphides. We kDow of no means of preventing the 
ants ascending the trees than by wrapping bands of cotton wool or some other 
material round the stems and smearing it with tar, or, what is perhaps better, a 
mixture of resin and sweet oil, two-thirds of the former melted, and one-third of 
the latter, as this mixture keeps moist longer than tar, and until it is dry 
neither ants nor snails can travel over it. 
Air-tight Propagation (J. S.). —We are glad you have read Mr. Taylor’s 
article on ventilation (page 489) so intelligently. It is not every reader who 
would detect any ambiguity in the sentence which states that removing the 
lights would cause the cuttings almost instantly to become tender. The word 
“ tender” ought to have been printed “tinder,” in reference to the cuttings 
shrivelling by the sudden exposure to air. This explanation will render his 
observation quite intelligible. 
A Vine Mystery (P. II. P.). —As you shook out every alternate Vine and 
spread out the roots, aud all which were so treated have refused to grow, while 
the remainder which were planted with balls entire have all done well, we 
must think in the absence of more precise information that there is something 
unsuitable in your soil, and those which are apparently doing well are living 
merely on the old balls of earth. You had better examine the roots and see if 
any of them are taking at all kindly to the new soil. If you refer to “ Vines at 
Longleat” you will find that Mr. Taylor planted his Vines in a growing state at 
midsummer, and at that time the soil must not be shaken from the roots ; but it 
is the practice to remove the soil from them when planted in a dormant state, or 
just starting into growth. When you cut down the Vines you can take up two 
rods from those that have done well. They will bear quite as well as if con¬ 
fined to one rod each. 
Heating Greenhouse (C. I)., North Wales). —As we have many times 
stated, we are quite unable to recommend any particular boiler. It would be 
obviously unfair for us to do so to the makers of others not mentioned, and yet 
in no way inferior. All the boilers advertised in our columns are good, and if you 
state the size of your house to the manufacturers of them they will send you the 
size of boiler and price with or without pipes, and you can then choose for your¬ 
self. As much depends on the setting of a boiler and the arrangement of the 
pipes for heating a house satisfactorily as on the particular kind of boiler 
employed. A practical gardener near you would give you good advice on this 
matter. 
Manure for Mushrooms (II. S. H. P.).—Place the manure in a heap 
until you have sufficient for a bed, throwing the slops on it so as to make it 
sufficiently moist for decomposition, then turn it over as described on page 28 of 
Mr. Wright’s treatise, until the mass is in the condition indicated in the follow¬ 
ing chapter. It will not be advisable to use the slops after you commence turn- 
ing, or the mass would not be made sweet; and further applying water to 
manure that is too hot usually makes it hotter. When a bed is made as described 
on page 33 of the manual the manure is hot, but a method is there named for 
preventing excessive heat and drying. The proper temperature for inserting 
the spawn is stated on page 44 of the work in question. 
Sulphate Of Ammonia (T. Wells). —The proper kind for manurial pur¬ 
poses is sold by dealers in artificial manures in nearly all large towns, also by 
most of the large metropolitan and provincial nurserymen and seedsmen, as well 
as by dealers in horticultural requisites who advertise in our columns. However, 
you may perhaps find it easier to procure nitrate of soda, and if so you may use 
it instead of the other, as it will probably answer your purpose equally well. 
Both are very quick in their action and powerful, and care must be taken not 
to use them in excess. An ounce to each square yard of soil is generally sufficient 
for one application. 
Preserving the Colours of Flowers (Inquirer).— It is by no means 
easy to preserve the colours of flowers in drying, particularly some delicate 
shades. After placing the specimens between sheets of blotting or the ordinary 
drying paper employed for botanical purposes, press firmly with a hot iron, 
which will fix the colours of some flowers, as quick drying is the principal 
object. Another system, which is often efficient if well performed, is the 
following : Secure the stems of the flowers to fine wire, and dip each separately 
in a thin clear solution of gum arabic, then suspend them until thoroughly 
dry, when they can be carefully pressed. The gum forms a slight glazing on 
the surface of the flowers that is hardly perceptible, and yet sufficient to 
prevent the air affecting the colours. 
Tropaeolum (Vindex ).—There are several varieties so closely resembling 
each other that it is not possible to determine the names of any of them without 
actual comparison of the flowers. It is for this reason that we do not undertake 
the naming of varieties, but only species of plants. If you send a few flowers, 
with a stamped directed envelope, to Mr. Caunell of Swauley he will probably 
compare them with others in his cohection, aud send you the name of your 
variety if he can determine it. It is very good indeed ; well formed, with stout 
petals, and brilliant colours. 
Zonal Pelargonium Leaves Injured (T. B. Jesmond).—We think we 
told you the injury was caused by removing the plants from a moist house to 
the full sun in the open air, and your further experience confirms this opinion. 
They may have been too wet at the roots, causing them to decay; if so, this 
would aggravate the evil, as the moisture would evaporate from the leaves more 
quickly than it could be supplied by the injured roots. Your plants are evidently 
in an unhealthy state. Allamandas are found in Guiana, Paraguay, and Brazil; 
Dipladenias mostly in Brazil. 
Horn Shavings (R. II. R .).—The horn waste from comb manufactories is 
of great value. A few years ago a similar waste sold at some £40 per ton, but 
about half this sum is nearer the value an agricultural chemist would give it. 
For mixing with poor potting soils, especially for foliage plants, it is very good. 
There is a good deal of difference between horn and bone. Horn waste contains 
—or should contain, but much depends on the dust mixed with it—nitrogen, 
equal to 18 or even 21 per cent, of ammonia, bones not over from 4 to 4J, and 
not always that; but bones are valuable because of the phosphates (some SO per 
cent) they contain. Horn contains practically none. The finer the particles the 
more rapid is the action of horn. Shavings act at once, gritty matters last for 
years, according to their bulk. When a lasting nitrogenous manure is wanted 
no better exists than the waste you name. Ordinary nitrogenous manures 
are not lasting, evanescence is their chief character; but bones are more or 
less lasting according to the fineness of their particles. Horn shavings are 
worth about £20 per ton more or less, bone not very much more than half that 
sum. 
Repotting Peach Tree (Idem ).—The tree ought to be potted so soon as 
the growth becomes firm in late summer and before the leaves have fallen, doing 
no more m disturbing the roots beyond loosening the sides of the ball a little 
and removing the drainage. The pot must be well drained, and some rough 
material placed over the drainage to insure its working satisfactorily. Good 
turfy loam with a fifth of well-decayed manure is a suitable compost. If defi¬ 
cient of calcareous matter, a little old mortar rubbish may be added and inter¬ 
mixed. In potting make the soil quite as firm as that of the old ball, and give 
a thorough watering afterwards, subsequently giving water as required. If the 
potting be done carefully the foliage will not suffer, but if the weather be bright 
shading may be necessary for a few hours in the middle of the day, and syring¬ 
ing morning and evening. The roots will soon start working in the new ma¬ 
terial. The tree should be placed under glass, so that it may have its growths 
solidified as made, for if left outside it is likely the wood will not ripen well, or 
the buds not be sufficiently perfected to insure a crop of fruit next season. The 
size of pot is suitable. 
Dendrobium Dalhousianum (E. Masters ).—We cannot give you a 
better description of this species than by citing from Mr. B. S. Williams’ 
“ Orchid Manual,” and the plant referred to there will also answer your 
inquiry as to its being a free bloomer:—“ This is a beautiful Indian evergreen 
species ; the stems, wliich are elegantly marked with reddish-crimson, grow 
from 4 to 8 feet high ; it blooms from the old growth in April and May, pro¬ 
ducing numerous flowers on a spike. The flowers are large ; sepals and petals 
of a pale lemon colour ; lip the same colour, with a pink margin and two dark 
crimson spots in the centre : it lasts four or five days in beauty. This will 
grow either in a pot or basket, with moss. Specimen plants of this are scarce, 
and justly prized by those who possess them, as it makes a good plant for 
exhibition purposes. This plant was exhibited by Capr. Shaw at Blackburn, 
1872; it had forty-three spikes, many of which had fourteen flowers on them ; 
there were 440 flowers in all, 400 of which were open at the same time, the 
individual blooms measuring 4.) inches in diameter.” 
Preserving Cut Flowers (J. P., Dublin ).—More depends on the con¬ 
dition of the Fern fronds and flowers when placed in water than anything that 
can be added to the water in preserving their freshness. The soft young 
fronds of Ferns grown in a moist shaded house do not keep fresh half so long 
when cut as older and harder fronds do that have been grown more or less in 
the sun. It is an excellent plan also to immerse Fern fronds in water for an 
hour before they are packed or placed in vases. Flowers always last longer 
when cut early in the morning and before they are fully expanded than if they 
are older and cut in the sun. There is no method so effectual for retaining 
the petals of Pelargoniums and similar flowers that “ fall ” quickly as sealing 
the petals at the base by touching the centre of each flower with a drop of 
gum We know that salt, nitrate of soda, charcoal, and a few drops of 
hartshorn in the water have been recommended for prolonging the freshness 
of flowers, but we have not had occasion to try any of them, as by adopting 
the precautions above indicated, changing the water daily, and cutting off a 
small portion from the ends of the stalks at the same time our flowers last as 
long as we wish them. At the same time, if any of our readers have found the 
addition of any ingredients to the water advantageous for the purpose in 
question we will readily publish their experience if it is communicated to us. 
Your other question cannot be answered this week. 
Introduction of the Moss Rose (Hants Vicar ).—We have referred to 
many old authorities, and the results of our search are that Parkinson in his 
“ Paradisus,” published in 1629. Rea in his “ Flora,” published in 1665, and Bauhin 
in his “ Pinax,” published in 1671, enumerate many Roses, but the Moss is not 
among them. It was introduced or raised in Holland probably at the close of 
the seventeenth century, for Dr. Martyn, in his edition of Miller’s “ Gardeners’ 
Dictionary,” says it is in Furber’s catalogue in 1724. We have seen a copy dated 
1727 ; it is entitled “ Catalogue of English and Foreign Trees Collected, Increased, 
and Sold by Robert Furber at his Nursery over-against the Park-Gate at Ken¬ 
sington, near London.” Faulkner in his “ History of Fulham ” says that Mr. 
Rench was the first to introduce the Moss Rose into this country, the original 
plant of which is supposed to have been brought from Holland. Rench lived at 
Souh Field Farm, near Parson’s Green, a farm possessed by his family for two 
centuries. He was buried in Fulham churchyard, where there is this inscription 
to his memory on a headstone :—“ Under this stone are deposited the remains of 
Nathaniel Rench, late of this parish, gardener, who departed this life Jan. 18th, 
1783, aged 101 years.” So he may have introduced the Rose before 1724, for in 
that year he was forty-two years old. The Moss Rose was first portraited in the 
“ Botanical Magazine,” plate 69. It is described as the Rosa muscosa, or Moss 
Rose, and the plate is dated December, 1788. Mr. Curtis observes that, though 
Miller thought it a distinct species, Linnseu; considered it only a variety of 
Rosa centifolia. 
Span-roof Pit (Trike ).—Excavate the whole of the soil to the floor of the 
pit, build outer walls to suppor . the roof, and 1 >w ii terior walls, mentioned in 
our first reply as retaining walls along each side of t e footway. You will thus 
have a passage with parallel pits or trenches along the entire length of the 
building. Divide these midway by a uoor in the passage, and a wall across 
each side pit of the same height as th passage walls, with a glazed partition 
resting on it. On the side for pot plants fi l the pit between the outer and inner 
wall with rubble, covered at top with fine gravel or coal ashes, for the pots to 
stand upon. On the side for summer Cucumbers and Tomatoes fill partly with 
rubble, leaving a foot at the top for soil. Summer Cucumbers require no bottom 
heat; but as you now mention provision for that and forcing, four rows of 4-inch 
pipes will be required, two for bottom heat and two for top heat. Bottom heat 
will probably only be required in one of the side pits of the warm end, and no 
