JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER. 547 
14 inches and the laterals at an inch. See that the laterals are 
pruned on fruiting trees to promote the formation of blossom buds 
and to admit air and light freely among the branches. 
Strawberries. — Layering .—Runners are now appearing in 
abundance, but they cannot be turned to account upon beds in 
full bearing, yet it is so important to do layering early that 
enough vigorous plants should be kept from fruiting for this 
purpose in every garden ; very few would suffice for the require¬ 
ments of small gardens, and in large ones space can always be 
had for such a purpose. First ascertain the number of plants you 
require, then fill enough 3-inch pots firmly with very rich soil, 
allowing a margin for accidental losses. Plunge each pot half 
its depth in the soil near the runner, which press into the centre of 
the soil in the pot, and fasten it there by a peg thrust firmly 
into the soil close outside the pot. The slight plunging keeps 
the pot soil moist and promotes the quick rooting of the runner, 
which must not be separated from the parent plant till its roots 
touch the sides of the pot. An occasional watering will accelerate 
matters, and is quite worth while, our object being early planting, 
in July if possible, in order to obtain an abundant supply of 
early and fine fruit next year. We give this well-tried method 
of layering fully, for it never fails us, always affording the best 
plants either for new beds or for potting, and there is no sub¬ 
sequent check to the growth, whatever be the purpose for which 
the plants are required. 
FRUIT FORCING. 
Vines. —Thinning Grapes and Stepping Laterals .—Complete 
the thinning of late Grapes with as little delay as possible. Late 
houses of Hamburghs intended for use from October to January 
will need more thinning than is necessary where the Grapes are 
used in the summer season, and medium-sized bunches will keep 
better than those which are large and heavily shouldered. When 
the berries are beginning to swell freely all weak laterals may be 
allowed to grow, but the gross ones will require close stopping in 
order to equalise the flow of the sap, as well as to insure short- 
jointed firm wood that seldom fails to ripen well. 
Grapes Scalding .—The earliest-started Lady Downe’s, as well 
as the main crop of Muscats, will now be about stoning, and will 
require close attention to prevent scalding. It is always the most 
troublesome when we have sudden changes from heat to cold, 
being aggravated by a rapid rise in the temperature, especially if 
it occur before air has been given. It is a mistake to consider 
that berries not directly exposed to the sun will be safe, as those 
beneath the foliage are equally as much affected, as the berries 
having become cold through the night moisture is condensed, and 
the skin, from the rapid evaporation, becomes injured. To pre¬ 
vent the evil a warm and rather dry atmosphere should be main¬ 
tained through the night with a little ventilation, increasing the 
temperature before the sun acts powerfully upon the house. With 
the Vines in a healthy state and the roots in properly drained 
borders, scalding, or the liability thereto, does not extend over a 
fortnight; but when the roots are in cold borders the scalding 
extends to three weeks or more. 
Watering Vines .—The recent rains have done good service in 
thoroughly moistening outside borders; and where there are tanks, 
as there ought in every garden, the surplus water should be given to 
the internal borders, which is profitable employment for the 
outside hands on wet days, and is in every way preferable to 
allowing the surplus water to run into the drains. Vines on 
advancing growth and those swelling off their crops will take 
large quantities of water of a stimulating nature ; therefore give 
liquid manure in a tepid state copiously, none being better than 
the drainings of the dungheap. 
Enfeeblement and Renovation .—The earliest forced Vineshaving 
become enfeebled through repetitions of the process, and the 
roots having the run of inside and outside borders, one or other of 
these may be taken out as soon as the crop is cleared. In order 
to successful lifting and laying-in of the roots in fresh material it 
is necessary that it be done quickly ; therefore before the work is 
begun the fresh compost and drainage should be prepared and be 
within easy reach, so that the work may be done expeditiously. 
The house should be shaded and kept moist to prevent the foliage 
flagging, as well as to prevent the roots from suffering. Every 
particle of soil should be removed, even if part of it be returned, 
and the drainage should be taken out and thoroughly re-arranged, 
unless it be found satisfactory. When all is finished the roof will 
require shading on bright days, syringing the Vines frequently, 
and maintaining a close, moist, and warm atmosphere from solar 
heat until new growth is perceptible, when the ordinary treat¬ 
ment should be followed, and the Vines will be in good order for 
starting again at the usual time, or in December. 
Planting Vines .—If it be thought advisable to replant Vines in 
early houses they should be cleared of their occupants at once. 
Good vigorous canes from this year’s eyes are, next to cut-backs 
shaken out and grown on, most suitable for the purpose. With 
proper treatment they will fill the house this season. A ridge of 
compost along the front of the house will be sufficient for this 
season, and may be doubled next and each year until the whole 
of the border is made. Plump buds, though the growth be strong, 
even rampant, will ripen at the base for cutting back to, and these 
push strong fruiting canes another season. 
The Cherry House .—When the crop of fruit on the trees is 
cleared the trees should be thoroughly cleansed of all insect pests 
by syringing morning and evening forcibly for red spider; 
use tobacco water or fumigate for green and black aphides, and 
take every opportunity of giving the trees free exposure, which is 
essential in order to prevent a second or premature growth, which, 
if allowed to become developed, is fatal to next year’s crop. Keep 
the borders thoroughly moist. As soon as the leaves and buds 
show indications of ripeness it will be necessary to remove all the 
roof lights, also the side lights. Newly planted trees will be 
benefited by having the roof lights over them a little longer in 
. order to effect early ripening of the wood and buds, and thereby 
accelerate the forcing process another season. 
PLANT HOUSES. 
Calanthes .—Those in active growth will require liberal supplies 
of water at the root, and weak stimulants given occasionally will 
prove beneficial. Where large pseudo-bulbs were placed in small 
pots when started they can, especially G. Veitchii, if strong and 
vigorous be placed in others a size larger. Keep them as near the 
glass as possible, and let them have abundance of light, which is 
essential to success, at the same time the strong rays of the sun 
must not shine directly upon them. Syringing may now safely 
be practised. 
Cattleyas .—Many of the varieties of C. Mossiae and C. Mendelli 
will still be in flower, and if placed in a cooler and drier atmo¬ 
sphere than where the general stock is grown their gorgeous 
flowers will last very much longer in good condition. These 
plants will, if in a healthy condition, now require more moisture, 
both at the roots and in the atmosphere, than at any other season 
of the year ; yet care must be exercised that the plants are not 
kept in a saturated condition continually, or the atmosphere 
allowed to become stagnant, or much harm will soon result. 
Shade must be carefully and judiciously applied, and not over¬ 
done, as is too frequently the case with these plants. 
Dendrobiums .—Few Orchids delight in heat and moisture more 
than these do while making their growth. Constant attention in 
watering and syringing will daily be needed, whether grown in 
pots, baskets, or upon blocks suspended from the roof. Those 
suspended will need syringing at least twice in the day, besides 
being thoroughly soaked frequently in a tank of tepid water. 
Some Dendrobes are liable to red spider, which if allowed to 
establish itself upon them soon arrests their growth, and the 
pseudo-bulbs in consequence are small. Eradicate all insects by 
means of sponging with soft water in which a little soft soap has 
been mixed. 
Cool Home .— Orchids .—The various plants grown in this 
house will no longer need artificial heat, except on solitary 
occasions when the external temperature falls very low, as has 
been the case recently. The majority of the occupants of this 
house will be growing vigorously, therefore water should be 
applied copiously, and no harm will result from it being applied 
overhead at this season of the year when abundance of air can 
be daily admitted. Although Odontoglossums, Masdevallias, and 
others will bear heavier shade than the majority of Orchids, yet 
shading is often carried to the extreme with these plants. Strong 
sun they dislike, but every ray of light that can be admitted is 
necessary to insure sturdy growth and solid pseudo-bulbs, which 
alone will produce stout stems and large bold flowers. 
Linpatiens Sultani .—This promises to become a popular plant, 
and will be largely grown for decorative purposes. It is of easy 
culture, and can be freely propagated by means of cuttings, 
which root readily in heat and will commence flowering even 
before they have formed roots. It will also come freely from 
seed ; and if flowering plants that stand upon gravel, ashes, 
and other moisture-holding material, are allowed to form seed 
pods, these will burst as soon as they are ripe, and the seeds will 
be dispersed in every direction. The result is that a stock of 
young plants can soon be raised, for the scattered seed appears 
to germinate most freely amongst the material upon which the 
plants have been placed, and often many yards away. 
