1878.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
203 
The wires may be tied to the stakes with twine, but 
should be twisted around the end stakes, and these 
should be driven very firmly, and braced if neces¬ 
sary ; but when put up in this way, there is very 
little strain upon the wires. 
Swine. —A run in the orchard, especially if that is 
60 wn to clover, will be very helpful for young pigs. 
There is a mutual relation between orchards, clover, 
and pigs. The pigs thrive on the clover, and con¬ 
sume all the fallen and wormy fruit; the clover 
keeps the soil cool, mellow, and moist; and the 
trees are all the better for the improvement to the 
soil and the destruction of the insects. 
Potatoes. —The potato-beetle has appeared in full 
force again. The mild open winter has not diminish¬ 
ed its numbers. There is but one effective remedy, 
Paris green. It may be applied in mixture with water 
—a tablespoonful to a pailful of water—sprinkled on 
the vines with a whisk,or mixed with flour or plaster 
—one part to 30 or 50—and dusted on the vines. 
Fence Rows—It is a good practice to move the 
fences and plow up the fence rows, whenever fields 
are laid down to grass. We can then have clean 
fence rows, and get rid of what are nurseries of 
weeds and collections of trash. Our practice is to 
take down the fence, lay the rails conveniently on 
one side, and plow the land; if there are many 
roots in the ground, gather these to be burned. 
When the ground is sown, and all is complete, the 
fence is put up again. It is a very small job to do 
this once in five or ten years, compared with the 
convenience of having clean fence rows, which may 
be readily mown and made to yield a considerable 
quantity of hay—enough to pay the cost. 
Buckwheat is not a very profitable crop, yet there 
are times and places when and where it may be 
convenient. Rough places, worn-out sod land, 
poor stubbles, and hills, may be made to produce 
buckwheat where little else can be grown. This 
crop has a good effect upon rough cloddy land, 
and mellows and softens the soil. Two to three 
pecks of seed per acre may be sown late this month, 
or early next. The “ Silver Hull ” buckwheat is a 
valuable improved variety. 
Notes on Orchard and Garden Work. 
The promise of a most successful season in every 
branch of horticultural production continued until 
May 13th with us near New York. In the Western 
States, a cold 6nap came earlier, and at that date 
severe frosts in the Eastern States caused much 
damage, but as we go to press on the 15th, we are 
unable to state the extent of the losses, which 
must be wide-spread and important. 
Orchard and Nursery. 
If tree planting was hurried—and it often is when 
other work presses—a little attention now may save 
young trees that might otherwise perish, and it will 
be well to go through all 
Newly-Planted Orchards , and examine their con¬ 
dition before the drouths come. If a tree has been 
carelessly planted, it may lean to one side ; a fault 
that merely pressing the soil with the foot will 
remedy. If a tree is a long while in starting, it 
needs mulching. We have advised that all trees be 
mulched at planting, but if this is not practicable 
for the whole orchard, the backward and unpromis¬ 
ing specimens should by all means be so treated. 
See last month’s remarks on mulching. 
Labels are very convenient, but they often do 
much harm. Every tree in an orchard, or indeed 
elsewhere, should be known by its position, and 
unless a proper record was made at planting time, 
let it be done at once. Begin and number the rows, 
from one side, and then opposite the number of the 
trees in the row, write the name. A permanent 
record of this kind should be kept, and a copy for 
convenient reference may he made in a pocket mem¬ 
orandum book. With this, labels are not needed, 
and generally may be entirely dispensed with. 
Labels from the Nurseries are not intended to be per¬ 
manent. They are usually wired on carefully, the 
wire twisted tightly so that it may not come off. 
They are only intended as a guide to the purchaser 
until the tree is planted. Look to each tree, and 
be sure that no firmly fastened label remains ; with 
a very slight growth, the tree may become injuri¬ 
ously strangled. If one prefers to have his trees 
labeled, let him make sure that the wire allows 
abundant room to grow. But 
A Safer Label has no wire. Cut sheet zinc into 
elongated triangles, about au inch wide at base, 
and 4 to 6 inches long. Write on these with a black 
lead pencil, and coil the point around a twig, as 
shown in the engraving. This makes a very perma¬ 
nent label; we have known it to be as distinct as 
ever for 25 years, and properly put on, they will 
not strangle. In putting on labels it is well to 
Observe a System.— On every tree put them on the 
same side, N. S., etc., and at the same bight as near 
as may be, otherwise it will be difficult to find 
them among the foliage. 
Grafts set this spring need to be kept watch of ; 
often but one bud will push, and this send out a 
long vigorous straight shoot, which in heavy winds 
will be broken or pulled out. Pinch the tops of such 
shoots to make them branch. Indeed, treat a graft 
in a tree, as if it were a young tree planted in the 
ground. If shoots appear on the stock below the 
graft, break them off while yet young. 
Thinning Fruit is Rarely Overdone.— The question 
of pay can only be decided by trial. If the market is 
a good one, and labor cheap, it will no doubt pay. 
If the fruit is marketed in a wagon body, and 
shoveled up to measure it, it will not pay. 
Shoots from Buds put in last summer are to have 
the same care as those on grafts. They sometimes 
grow so vigorously, especially on peach trees, that 
a stake is needed. 
Might and other troubles that befall trees were men¬ 
tioned last month, and there is nothing to add. 
This will be an especially busy month 
With Insects. —Aside from those mentioned in 
former months, the borers generally lay their eggs. 
The perfect insect of the Peach-borer is a small 
moth, that lays her eggs just at or below the surface 
of the ground. Heaping up a low mound of earth, 
or of coal ashes, around the tree, has been found 
useful as a preventive. When the grub has entered, 
gum will be found oozing from the wound; the 
borer docs not go much below the bark, and is 
easily cut out. The Apple-tree borer is a brown 
and whitish striped beetle with long feelers ; this 
places its eggs near the base of the tree ; sawdust 
from its boring, is a sign of its presence. Cut out, 
and use a wire if need be, as soon as discovered. 
The Codling moth worm leaves the fruit, unless 
that falls, and crawls around in search of a hiding 
place wherein to make its changes ; cloths or hay 
bands fastened around the trunks catch large num¬ 
bers ; these traps should be examined every 10 days. 
Fruit Garden. 
Aside from the insects that attack ordinary or¬ 
chard trees, some peculiar ones are found here. 
Currants and gooseberries are attacked by the cur¬ 
rant worm. See last month for the use of White 
Hellebore for these, and about the attacks of the 
white grub on strawberries. Large caterpillars of 
several kinds, and beetles, will be found on grape¬ 
vines, but rarely so numerous that hand-picking 
will not keep them in check. A slug-like cater¬ 
pillar, green, slow, and slimy, often disfigures pear 
and cherry leaves. Dusting with slaked lime or dry 
ashes will soon rid the trees of it. 
Currants and Gooseberries. —Much pruning in the 
fall may be avoided by removing shoots which push 
now where stems are not needed; they are easily 
pulled out. Generally the bushes are too full of 
wood and leaves for the most abundant fruit. In 
some markets both these fruits bring a better price 
when picked green—indeed, gooseberries are rarely 
sold otherwise. By heavy mulching, the fruit of 
the currant may be kept on the bushes a long while 
in good condition for table use. For jelly, currants, 
should be gathered as soon as fairly colored. 
Raspberries. —The wood, or canes, that fruit this: 
year, will die the next, and the green shoots that, 
are now growing, will bear next year’s fruit. If 
more of these new shoots than are wanted start 
up, select three or four of the best to each stool, 
and treat the others like weeds. • When the shoots 
for next year reach 3, or at the most 4 feet, stop 
them by pinching off the ends. The “ Cap ” varieties 
do not sucker, at a distance from the plant,but shoot 
up from around the base. Keep the new shoots 
shortened to make a neat bush 2}4 or 3 feet high. 
Thus treated, they will need no stakes. We prefer 
to cut out the old canes as soon as picking is over. 
Blackberries have the same manner of growth as 
raspberries, and shoots must be treated for next 
year’s fruit. When they reach 5 or 6 feet, nip out 
the top, which will cause them to branch. Most of 
them are great wanderers, and all that come up 
where not wanted should be pulled up or cut off. 
Grape- Vines. —Suflicient is said about the man¬ 
agement of the young vine, especially, on page 222. 
In moist hot days, examine often for mildew, and 
on its first appearance dust sulphur freely. 
Strawberries. —The treatment of the plants after 
fruiting will depend upon the plan of cultivation. 
In any case, the mulch should be removed, the soil 
between the rows forked over, and the weeds that 
have come up among the plants pulled up. Where 
the plants are kept in hills or single rows, the run¬ 
ners are to be cut off. In the alternate plan, the 
runners are allowed to take root in the spaces be¬ 
tween the rows, and the old plants removed, later 
in the season, after the new ones are well establish¬ 
ed. New beds may be set from plants struck in 
pots, as 60 on as they are well rooted. 
Kitchen and. Market Garden. 
The value of the rake as a weeding implement 
has often been referred to in these Notes, and at no 
time i6 its utility more manifest than now, when 
the hot weather brings the later weeds on in great 
profusion. With a long-toothed, wide rake, the sur¬ 
face can be stirred very rapidly, and this will so 
disturb the germinating weeds that the sun will 
soon finish them. The frequent use of the rake will 
save much hoeing. Last month’s Notes will be 
timely in many localities for the present month. 
Sowing for Succession must be kept in mind, as 
the season of many vegetables may be greatly pro¬ 
longed. Bush Beans, Sweet Corn, etc., by sowing 
every ten days or two weeks, may be had until frost. 
Asparagus should not be exhausted by too long 
continued cutting. The usual rule is to stop as 
soon as early peas are ready. Recent inquiries show 
that it is not generally understood that the crop of 
next year depends upon the growth of the tops 
this season , as we have been asked by several if 
they should not be kept cut off. This would com¬ 
pletely destroy the bed. The growth of the foliage 
is of the greatest importance, as it provides for the 
buds for next season. Allow the tops to grow un¬ 
til the change of color shows that they have done 
their work ; all weeds that appear should be pulled. 
Beans. —If cold storms have injured the first plant¬ 
ing of Limas, put in more seed at once. These 
usually need to bo aided in taking to the poles at 
first. Bush sorts may be put in for succession. 
Beets and Carrots. —Sow the main crop if not al¬ 
ready in. Weed, and thin when large enough. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers are greatly helped by 
frequent hoeing. As soon as the early crops are off 
prepare the ground for celery and other late crops. 
The seed-beds of late cabbages should be kept free 
of weeds, and if slugs or insects attack them 
sprinkle with ashes or lime. 
Cucumbers. —The main crop for pickles is usually 
