1878.] 
325 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
plant all but the stone fruits in autumn. In 
autumn planting it is well to make 
A Mound of Earth around the base of each tree, 
from 10 to 15 inches above the general level. This 
selves to keep water from settling at the roots, 
and protects them from frost, helps to keep away 
mice, and serves as a stay or support for the tree 
in a much better manner than staking. The 
earlier trees are planted, after they have completed 
their growth and ripened the wood, the better. 
Stripping the Leaves from nursery trees is re¬ 
garded by many as improper, but if done at the 
right time there is no objection to it. When the 
leaves have done their work they are of no further 
use to the tree, and will fall in a heavy storm or 
with the first frost, and no more injury will result 
from stripping them off by hand than if they were 
left to be removed by natural agents, provided it 
be done when they are fully mature and prepared 
to fall. Stripping, properly done, allows the trees 
to be set out some weeks earlier than otherwise, 
in the fall. If left on, the trees would be difficult 
to pack ; there would be danger of heating in the 
package, and if the tree were planted with the 
leaves on, they would carry on an evaporation that 
would greatly injure if it did not kill it. See hints ou 
Gathering ami Marketing Fruit in last and previous 
months’ Notes. Windfalls should not be wasted ; 
they may be used for vinegar, for drying, or be fed 
to the pigs. Those who have large orchards find 
it profitable to provide a hand-press to treat wind¬ 
falls as they occur, long before the general press¬ 
ing, and materially increase the amount of vinegar. 
Propagating. —Budding may be continued so long 
as the stocks are in growing condition ; cut the ties 
of those buds that have taken. Collect peach and 
plum stones, and keep in saud until sown. 
Tlte Frnit Garden. 
The reasons given for fall planting in the or¬ 
chard, hold with the hardy small fruits and dwarf 
trees in the garden. 
Strawberries. —Keep the beds entirely free from 
weeds, and remove all ruuners not needed. Plant¬ 
ing was discussed last month, and an article giving 
useful hints will be found on another page. 
Blackberries and Baspbet'rics push their growth so 
early in spring, that fall planting is especialy de¬ 
sirable for them. If not already shortened as di¬ 
rected last month, do it now. If it is desired to 
propagate Black caps, and other varieties that root 
from the tips, branches should be left uncut for 
the purpose ; while they often take root without 
help, it is well to make sure by placing earth on 
the ends of the canes, to hold them in place. 
Currants and Gooseberries may be pruned when 
the leaves have fallen, or will drop at a slight 
touch. Cuttings of this year’s growth should be 
set at that time; make them 4 to 6 inches long, 
and set 4 inches apart in rows, with one bud above 
the surface. Cuttings set this month, or early 
next, will usually be well rooted by winter. 
Grapes. —In gathering, use scissors made for the 
purpose, which hold the bunch after it is severed, 
and avoid the necessity of handling, which, by re¬ 
moving the bloom, greatly injures their appearance 
and consequently the sale. Gather in trays or 
shallow boxes and keep in a cool, airy room for a 
few days, until the skin toughens somewhat. 
Packing Grapes. —For immediate sale, or later to 
keep, wooden boxes of thin stuff, to hold 3 or 5 
lbs. are preferred, though some growers use paper 
boxes. The bottom of the box is removed, and the 
grapes laid in, handling only by the stems, and 
enough put in to make it necessary to use slight 
pressure to bring the bottom to its place—which 
the curing of exposure, by toughening the skins, 
makes possible without cracking the fruit. See 
last month on mildew. 
Pars need careful watching that they may be 
picked as soon as they mature ; with some varie¬ 
ties, a delay of a few days will cause loss by decay 
at the core. Whenever the stem of the fruit parts 
readily from the branch, the pear should be picked, 
no matter how hard, and ripened in the house. 
Select specimens are sent to market in shallow 
boxes holding but a single layer, each pear wrapped 
in white or colored tissue paper. Pruning to bring 
the tree into proper shape may be done now. 
lUtchen :m<l Market Garden. 
Now that the cool nights have come, the late 
crops will be making a rapid growth not possible 
when both nights and days were hot. But cool 
nights are equally favorable to certain weeds, and 
there can be no relaxation of vigilance with these. 
Clear up as you go. —When a crop, large or small, 
is taken off, clear up at once the refuse, and if the 
land is not needed for any crop, keep the weeds 
down by running the cultivator over it whenever 
that is used among the crops. 
Cold Frame Pants are to be provided for. Those 
who are only used to the old fashioned way of 
gardening, which began with spring and ended 
with fail, do not understand that the earliest cab¬ 
bages, lettuce, etc., are from seeds sown the fall 
before, the plants kept through the winter in cold 
frames, and set out in early spring. There is noth¬ 
ing about this that can not be done by any farmer 
or other person who will take the needed pains. 
We will describe the frame in due time ; the seed 
for the plants must be sown this month. In order 
to have them of the proper size, gardeners, about 
New York, make two sowings, on the 10th and 15th 
of this month. Farther North the sowing is earlier, 
and in more Southern localities, later. The seeds 
of the Early Cabbages, Cauliflowers, and Lettuce, 
are sown in well prepared seed beds, and cared for 
the same as when sown in spring. 
In Virginia and Southward, cold frames are not 
needed, but the plants are protected by ridges as 
will be described another month ; the seeds for 
these, are sown the later part of this month, or 
early next, according to locality. 
Celery should be making a good growth, which 
should be favored by frequent stirring the soil. If 
early celery is needed, some of the most forward 
may be straightened up, having the earth drawn to 
it with the hand; in about a week it is banked up 
with earth to half its hight; and in another week 
banked again. It should be used as soon as blanch¬ 
ed (which requires 10 days or so), as it soon becomes 
hollow if earthed up while in the growing state. 
Corn. —As fast as the ears are taken from a plant¬ 
ing, cut up the stalks to cure, if not fed out at 
once. During its abundance, dry a supply for 
winter ; see note on page 287, last month, on pre¬ 
serving with Tartaric Acid. 
Borecole, Bale, or in the New York market 
“ Sprouts,” is sown early this month. It is merely 
a kind of cabbage that does not make a head. Some 
varieties are quite ornamental, having handsomely 
curled and fringed leaves; sow the seeds in row's 
15 inches apart; thin to six or eight inches, and 
keep clear of weeds until winter, when it is to be 
covered with straw, and may he used in spring. 
Spinach for next spring is sown in the climate of 
New York, between the first and middle of the 
month. Sow in drills 15 inches apart, and keep 
clean; thin to 6 or 8 inches, using the thinnings. 
Com Salad is treated the same as Spinach, and is 
used in spring, mainly by Europeans. 
Sweet Potatoes. —Prevent the vines from taking 
root by moving them occasionally. 
Turnips. —The flat kind may be sown; Rep-top 
Strap-leaved is best, and will usually make a good 
crop, if sown as late as the middle of the month. 
Melons. —Remove all that are not likely to ripen ; 
the small musk melons maybe used for “Man¬ 
goes,” or stuffed pickles, if desired. 
Shallots. —A hardy onion, which is ready for use 
in early spring, may be set, using the small bulbs. 
Seeds. —If seeds are saved, they should never be 
from the leavings of a crop, but the finest and 
earliest plants or fruits selected in advance, and so 
marked that they will not be taken for use. If 
several varieties of melons, squashes, and others 
of the family, of corn, etc., are grown in a small 
garden, it is of little use to save their seeds, as 
they will be so mixed that only mongrels will result. 
Badishcs .—Those who like radishes in winter, 
may sow the Chinese Rose-colored Winter, and 
treat and keep it the same as turnips. 
Et Cetera. —Cucumbers, Martynias, Green Toma¬ 
toes, String Beans, etc., should be gathered while 
young and tender, and salted as stated on page 
345.Make Catsup while Tomatoes are plenty 
-Use ripe Cucumbers for Cucumber Catsup. 
They may be peeled, sliced, dipped in batter and 
fried like egg plant... .Lastly, weeds. 
Flower GardeM asa«l ILsswu. 
Now that the hottest days are over, an increased 
growth of grass will require a more frequent use of 
the mower. On new lawus the “ Finger ” or “ Crab- 
grass ” ( Panicum sanguinale), is often abundant, 
especially the first year; fortunately it is only an 
annual, and if kept from seeding it will give but 
little trouble hereafter. . 
New Lawns may be made ; grass sown this month, 
or, iu the warmer States, next month, usually gives 
good results ; and where the season is favorable for 
it to get well established before growth ceases, 
fall sowing is to be preferred to spring. 
White Grub in Lawns. —A friend near Boston, 
whose extensive lawns have been models of excel¬ 
lence, writes that the white grub has been so de¬ 
structive that some acres of turf are destroyed, 
the roots being eaten off just at the surface, so that 
the grass may be rolled up like a carpet. We have 
known of similar trouble, but not on so extensive 
a scale. The work is done so thoroughly that there 
are not roots enough left to allow the grass to re¬ 
cover if the turf were rolled, to bring it in close 
contact with the soil, and kept moist by watering, 
for which he has ample facilities, and there was 
nothing to be done but to make the lawn anew. 
Is the Grub increasing in numbers? is a serious 
question for cultivators of all kinds, for there are 
but few plants, including young trees, that are not 
attacked by it. If it is not on the increase, it is 
noticed more closely, as we hear more of it of late 
than in former years. It is, as most readers know, 
the larva of the May or Dor-bug, and lives three 
years in the ground. As its presence is not sus¬ 
pected until the mischief is done, we can only 
make effective war against it in the perfect or 
beetle state. When discovered in large numbers 
on trees, the beetles should be caught by nets or 
otherwise, and as they are readily attracted by light, 
traps with a lamp for a “ bait ” must be devised. 
Herbaceous Perennials. —For many of these, fall is 
the best season for transplanting; a few, like the 
Poeony, will not bloom the same year if moved in 
spring, hence these must always be transplanted 
now, unless we would lose a season of bloom. All 
the early bloomers, if set iu the fall, will become 
well established and flower well next spring. 
Bedding Plants. — Geraniums and such plants 
should now be at their best. If a stock is to be 
kept over winter, make cuttings for the purpose. 
Chrysanthemums. — Those wanted to flower in¬ 
doors, should be potted when the buds show, and 
shaded for a few days until they recover. Provide 
the tall growers with stakes, and keep them tied: 
up, else they will be broken by storms. 
Cannas. —Some of these are as desirable for their- 
flowers as for their foliage ; prolong the bloom by- 
cutting away the stalks as soon as the flowers fade, 
unless seeds are wanted. 
Dahlias need careful tying, and the larger 
branches may need separate stakes; the stems 
break readily; the flowers are heavy, especially 
when wet, and unless well cared for, they will be 
wrecked just when they should be most showy. 
Ornamental Trees and Shrubs may often be advan¬ 
tageously transplanted in autumn, for the reasons 
mentioned under Orchard. Many prefer this season 
for the removal of Evergreens ; success with these 
depends quite as much upon how as upon when it 
is done, the greatest care to prevent drying of the, 
roots being essential at any season. 
<jJi-eenIio«ise and Window Plants. 
All plants in pots should be in the condition of 
an army waiting orders—ready for a move at any 
