Peppers—Pepper Grass—Radish—Saffron—Sage. 
89 
vines: for the Early Frame , Early Petersburg 
or Early Washington , about two and a half 
or three feet apart; the Large Marrowfat or 
Green Mr row fat require at least four feet Space. 
As the plants rise to three or four inches in 
height they should be well hoed and cleared of 
weeds, and the soil drawn up around them while 
the vines are dry : this should be continued as 
they rise higher. When from six to ten inches 
high the sticking should be done. Let the 
sticks be fixed firm in the earth, so as not to be 
blown down by hard winds. The sticks or 
brush, as to height, must be regulated according 
to the height of the peas. 
Field culture. —The common method of rais¬ 
ing field peas is to sow. them bfoad-cast. In 
this case they should be sown mu.ch thicker 
than many farmers sow them, and be plowed in. 
There is very little danger of burying them too 
deep ; it is said they will vegetate and come up 
if buried a foot deep. Peas sowed thin are very 
apt to fall down, and if the season be wet, they 
will rot on the ground; but if they are sowed 
thick, they will cling together and support each 
other, ana yield much better by having more 
benefit of the sun and air. 
Many people are much afflicted with buggy 
peas, especially in the old settlements. This is 
occasioned by a small brown bug that deposits 
its eggs or larva in the young pods. The only 
effectual remedy against this, that we know of, 
is to sow the peas late; so that they will not 
blossom till the period of depositing the larva 
is past. For this purpose they should not be 
sown before the 10th of June. We are inform¬ 
ed that a respectable farmer in Rensselear 
county sowed his peas on the 10th of June, six 
years in succession, and never found a bug in 
them; while his neighbors who sowed earlier, 
had their peas filled with bugs. If your seed 
peas contain bugs, we would recommend to 
scald them by putting them into a tub or pail, 
and pouring in boiling water enough to cover 
them, and stirring them briskly about a minute; 
then pour off the water and add a little cold 
water to them and sow them soon. This will 
destroy the bugs without injuring the peas; and 
they will vegetate the sooner. But if your 
peas are buggy, your ground will require more 
seed; because when the chit of the pea is de¬ 
stroyed by the bug in it, the pea will not come 
up. 
Peppers.*—A s these require the whole season 
to come to maturity, they must be sowed early. 
Our method is to sow them in a hot-bed very 
early in the spring, and cover them with glazed 
sashes, when the weather is cold, to prevent in- 
* Droppings from the hen roost are the best manure 
for peppers,. 
jury by frost. They will be large enough to 
transplant in May, and may be transplanted in 
rows about two feet apart each way. Hoe them 
well and keep them clear of weeds; and if the 
soil is light and warm, they will come to matu¬ 
rity in good season. The squash pepper is 
reckoned the best for pickling. 
Pepper Grass, or Curled Cress. —-This 
will grow on any common soil; but a light, 
rich soil is the most favorable to it. It may be 
put in at any time from early in the spring to 
September. When it is up sufficiently large 
for salad, it may be cut up as it is wanted for 
use; but it soon becomes too large and tough, 
and therefore should be sown once in two or 
three weeks, in order to ensure a constant sup¬ 
ply through the season. 
Radish.— A light sandy, warm soil produces 
the best radishes. For the long tap-rooted kinds 
the ground should be plowed deep, and well 
worked over to make the soil mellow. They 
do not require a very strong soil; but if not 
sufficiently rich, it may be manured with swamp 
muck or other light vegetable mould. A little 
lime and strong ashes mixed -with this manure, 
or strewed in the drills before sowing, will be 
highly beneficial in quickening the growth of 
the plants and destroying the worms, which in 
some soils nearly spoil the roots: for the more 
rapid the growth, the more tender and better is 
the root; and for this reason it is difficult to 
have good radishes very early in the season, 
without raising them in a hot-bed or in a very 
warm soil. Hence those raised in June or July, 
(if the season be not too dry,) generally grow 
the quickest, and if eaten when young, are the 
most tender and crisp; though they will do well 
in May, and even in September, if the weather 
be warm. 
To ensure a constant supply of good radishes, 
they should be sown once a fortnight; for they 
are very unwholesome to eat after they become 
old and tough. 
Saffron.— We generally sow this seed in 
double drills, about six inches apart, with a space 
of three feet between these double rows, for the 
convenience of passing and repassing. to-g^hef~~ .j 
the flowers. They should stand from three t$Oy 
six inches apart in the drills, and be well looked ** 
to and kept clear of weeds while growing. 
When the flower^begin to appear they should ^ 
be strictly attended to, and gathered into basl^elg 
once in two or three days, as long as they corP|^ 
tinue to blossom. These flowers may be spread' 
on sheets, or on a clean floor to dry; and when 
sufficiently dried, may be packed away for use. 
Sage. —This useful herb requires a good 
rich soil, and may be sown in drills, about two 
feet apart. When of sufficient size for culinary 
purposes, it may he thinned out as it is wantei 
