26 
HORTICULTURE IX HOLLAND. 
horticulture in ^allauiX 
There are few pleasures more truly enjoyed by 
the traveller than a visit to places long familiar to 
him from his earliest childhood; when scenes de¬ 
scribed in books of study, or the recreative reading 
of maturer years, come visibly before him with a 
pleasing reality, and bring thronging upon the 
mind many delightful associations of his early 
years. It was with feelings somewhat akin to 
these, that I found myself on board a comfortable 
steam-boat, and with only a few miles between us 
and Flushing, winding along the devious and lazy 
course of a Dutch river, on my way to the land of 
cleanliness and thrift, of canals and dykes, and of 
bulbs and beautiful flowers—the paradise of good 
housewives and florists. 
Passing by Dort, and through a flat and meadow¬ 
like country, we reached Rotterdam in the evening, 
and were comfortably ’established in a good hotel. 
Before seven in the morning, maid-servants, mops, 
and force pumps were in efficient action against the 
windows; and wo to the luckless spider or fly that 
was caught unprepared. Looking-glasses were 
hanging at nearly every window, so ingeniously 
arranged, that every passer-by was visible to the 
occupant of the house, who could be screened 
from view. 
Rotterdam is a stirring place, with fine docks and 
considerable shipping; and much of its prosperity 
is owing to the Dutch possessions in the East 
Indies. There are no nurseries of any note in the 
vicinity, and the common character of the flowers 
exposed for sale, evinced that it was not here that 
Holland could sustain her reputation in horticul¬ 
ture. There are a few small summer-houses in 
the suburbs, and some fruit trees trained as espa¬ 
liers, or en pyramide. 
These summer-houses are on the exterior of the 
town, and afford a good view of the green, level 
meadows which surround them. The gardens at¬ 
tached are frequently kept in nice order. The 
walks are laid with pounded bricks or shells, and 
edged sometimes with box or showy plants, and 
sometimes with low lattice work or boards, painted 
green. Neatness is their characteristic, and not a 
weed is seen. Mulberries and grape-vines are 
sometimes trained against the walls, and yield large 
profits to their owners. The fruit of one peculiarly 
fine mulberry tree, covering a whole house, has, in 
some years, been sold for nearly $200. 
Rotterdam possesses in the Boomptie, one of the 
finest quays in Europe, inasmuch as it is lined with 
noble elms and limes, of more than a century’s 
standing. During the summer, the Boomptie forms 
a favorite promenade for the inhabitants; the trees 
affording'shale, while the river generally ensures a 
circulation of fresh and cool air. Here are the 
principal hotels, the windows looking out upon the 
Maese,a majestic river at tnis place, with vessels of 
every description frequently passing. 
Taking a diligence for the Hague, we rode plea¬ 
santly along the banks of the canal, now covered 
with harden and packet boats. Small gardens, and 
some very pretty country seats, were scattered 
along the road. There was no want of water here, 
and it was frequently used in the way of miniature 
lakes, canals, &c. The approach to the Hague is 
delightful, and the chief beauty lies in the 
noble trees which border the roads in various 
directions for several miles, and unite in a mass of 
forest north of the town. Hague is decidedly the 
finest city in Holland; is the seat of Government, 
and possesses a beautiful mall, with some good public 
buildings. It is a favorite summer resort of the 
wealthier classes, and its principal hotel embow¬ 
ered in the thick forest, is at that season crowded 
to excess. From the Hague, the locomotive carried 
us with rapid strides to Amsterdam, that amphibious 
city of land and river. 
Nowhere is the industry of man more perceptible 
than in this singular city, built as it is in the midst 
of a level marsh, and in danger of being over¬ 
whelmed by the waters which encompass it on 
every side. The streets are very narrow, and the 
canals emit a most offensive smell. In the vicinity, 
are some small houses, with neat gardens, to which 
the merchants sometimes escape from the noisome 
city. All the water drank in the city is brought 
from a distance in boats, and is pumped into the 
houses or cellars. Even this, however, it is diffi¬ 
cult for a foreigner to drink, without vomiting, and 
I was obliged to take Seltzer water. There is a 
good botanic garden at Amsterdam, with a fine col¬ 
lection of plants from the Capes. The windows 
full of hyacinths and tulips, evinced the native fond¬ 
ness for flowers. 
Returning to Rotterdam by railroad, we passed a 
few hours very pleasantly at Haarlem and Leyden. 
Haarlem has long been celebrated for its cultivation 
of flowers, and more particularly of bulbous and 
tuberous rooted plants. The cultivation of these 
and the numerous gardens, I have described more 
particularly in Hovey’s Magazine, and their repe¬ 
tition here would occupy too much space. No tra¬ 
veller who feels the least interest in horticulture 
should visit Europe without seeing the “ bloemis- 
tries ” of Haarlem. The many acres covered with 
the rich and gorgeous bloom of the hyacinth, the 
tulip, and the crocus, in varieties whose beauty is 
scarcely known here, would leave upon his horti¬ 
cultural sense an impression not easily effaced. 
Haarlem, too, is well worth visiting, independently 
of its gardens. Its quiet character, and neat, clean, 
streets, impress the traveller agreeably. 
Leyden is a short railroad ride from Haarlem, 
and is one of the prettiest towns in Holland. It is 
remarkably quiet, with the exception of an occa¬ 
sional group of noisy students belonging to the 
University, which once stood among the first in 
Europe. The Rhine passes through the city by 
various channels, and is crossed by nearly 150 fine 
bridges, many of them built of stone. Some of the 
houses are of a superior character; and many of the 
streets bordered with majestic trees, form noble 
avenues. Outside of the town is a pretty 
park, planted with trees and shrubs, and used as a 
promenade. The grand attraction of Leyden is the 
Botanic Garden, celebrated by its connection with 
Clusius and Boerhave. The inscription, in honoi 
of the former distinguished botanist, was rathei 
amusing. 
“ Non potuit plures hie quosrere Clusius herbas , 
Ergo novas campis quant in Elysiis.” 
