214 
NORTHERN CALENDAR FOR OCTOBER. 
from such fields are small and short, having the joints 
nearer together, each of which sends up shoots called 
rattoons. One acre of such rattoons is sufficient, in 
ordinary cases, for the planting of three acres of land. 
They are cut near the ground, and carted to the vicin¬ 
ity of the fields where they are to be planted out, and 
then formed, when not planted as soon as cut, into 
long beds, about fifteen feet wide, which are called 
mattresses. These are made by commencing at one end 
of the bed, and placing a row of canes, with their tops 
on, across it—the tops directed outward. Upon this a 
second row is laid, so that the huts are placed about 
eight inches or a foot in advance of those of the first 
row. Upon the second row a third is placed in like 
manner, and so on. By this arrangement the lower 
part of the stalk is preserved from the cold by the tops, 
except in two or three layers across that portion of the 
mattress last formed, where the protection is afforded 
by four or five inches of earth. 
A great part of the planting may be done with about 
three feet of the rejected cane-tops, to which a greater 
portion of the green leaves are attached at the time of 
gathering the crop. These, when not reserved for 
planting, should be left on the field for the protection 
of the stubbles ; but when cut for planting, it is better 
to cut them.one or two joints longer than usual, and 
to form them into windrows across the field. In this 
case^ from two to four rows should be thrown into one, 
and arranged as respects the overlapping, like the mat¬ 
tresses above described. The fields from which these 
tops are obtained, are often those that were planted the 
previous year, and in which the cane is high, and some¬ 
what prostrated at the beginning of the grinding sea¬ 
son. Hence it is necessary to cut this earlier to pre¬ 
vent it from rooting at the lower joints. When the 
force of the plantation will permit, the land should be 
planted as far as the seed-cane is cut. Canes planted 
at this season should be in the driest fields, and covered 
to the depth of three or four inches, in order that they 
may take an earlier start next spring, than if they re¬ 
main in the mattresses during the winter. The re¬ 
mainder, and by far the greatest part of the planting, 
may be deferred until the grinding season is over., 
which varies from the 20th of December to the middle 
of January; and often it is not completed before the 
first of March. The covering given to the canes is 
more and more shallow as the season advances, until 
the close of February, when it rarely exceeds two inches. 
In preparing the ground for planting cane, it should 
be first thoroughly ditched or drained, and then plowed 
and harrowed ; after which it should be drilled at dis¬ 
tances varying from 33 inches to six feet apart, accord¬ 
ing to the newness and strength of the soil. Into these 
drills or furrows there -should be laid, three or four 
inches apart, two parallel rows of cane-tops, from two 
and a half to four feet in length, and covered with earth 
at a depth corresponding to the season off the year in 
which the planting is done. 
In the latter end of October, or early part of Novem 
ber, prepare for preserving sweet potatoes for the win 
ter. Select a dry place, level the earth, and lay a bed 
of dry straw so as to form a circle of about six feet in 
diameter. On this straw pile up the potatoes until 
they form a cone four or five feet high, over which 
spread a little dry grass. Then cover the entire cone 
with corn-stalks set up endwise, with the buts resting 
on the ground, and the tops reaching over the apex, of 
a sufficient thickness to conceal all of the potatoes. 
Then cover the whole pile with earth at a depth of at 
least a foot, without leaving any air-hole at the top, as 
is frequently done. A small shelter should then be 
made so as to prevent the rains from washing off the 
earth. This may be done by inserting in the ground 
about the pile four forked stakes, on which rails may 
be placed to support the covering, which may consist 
of boards, bark', thatch, or other substances. Potatoes 
can be preserved in this manner until June, nearly as 
fresh as when first put up. 
In these months dress burr artichokes, taking away 
all their suckers, except three to each stock, open their 
roots, lay about them new earth and manure, and plant 
out suckers for another crop. Trim and dress aspara¬ 
gus beds by cutting down the stocks and burning them 
over the beds. Then dig between the shoots, level the 
beds, and cover them three fingers deep with fresh earth 
and manure, mixed. Continue to plant celery, set it 
in gutters as it grows, and hill up; sow spinach, let¬ 
tuce, and raddish seeds, and plant out evergreens— 
they will do now perhaps better than in April. Plant 
vines or beans, and early peas. 
For the American Agriculturist. 
NORTHERN CALENDAR FOR OCTOBER. 
Kitchen Garden. —Keep the crops of spinach en¬ 
tirely clean ; they can now be thinned out, leaving the 
plants four or five inches apart. Lettuces for early 
spring use should be treated in the same way. Those 
for late fall use should be transferred to frames, and pro¬ 
tected from frost during the night. The same mode can 
be adopted with cabbage plqnts for fall and winter use. 
During the latter part of the month cut down the as¬ 
paragus tops, and give the bed a coat of well-rotted 
stable manure to the depth of two or three inches. This 
can be done, however, as well next month. 
Fruit Garden and Orchard. —Continue propaga¬ 
ting by layers and cuttings. Plant beds of strawberries 
that may have been omitted last month; they will bf 
less likely to suffer from the heat of the ensuing sum 
mer, than if planted in The spring. Most kinds of 
hardy fruit and forest 'trees may now be trimmed and 
cleared of lateral Shoots and suckers. All kinds of 
hardy deciduous trees and shrubs can be transplanted 
this month, as soon as they have shed their leaves. 
Fall planting is preferable for-good-sized trees, as 
during the winter they can firmly establish themselves, 
and be ready to throw out sufficient roots iu the spring 
to withstand the heats of summer. Small seedlings 
had better be left till spring, as they are liable to be 
thrown out of the ground by the frost in the winter. 
Flower Garden and Pleasure Grounds. —About 
the middle or latter "end of the month plant tulips, hya¬ 
cinths, &c. Select a warm, mellow soil, and let it be 
highly manured with well-rotted compbst. The ranun¬ 
culus and anemone can now be planted, and all other 
varieties of bulbous and tuberous-rooted flowers. Seeds 
of bulbous and tuberous-rooted flowers can now be sown 
to obtain new varieties. Continue to transplant per¬ 
ennial and biennial flower roots. Plant some bulbous 
roots in flower pots for winter blooming. The latter 
part of the.month, pot your tender roses and everything 
else that requires protection in the winter, and have 
them ready to move in on the sudden approach of any 
cold weather. Flowering and ornamental shrubs can 
now be found, and also propagated by layers, ..cuttings, 
and suckers. The latter part of this month new plea¬ 
sure grounds may be formed, and all hardy deciduous 
trees may be transplanted, as soon as they have shed 
their leaves. Live hedges can now be planted. Con¬ 
tinue to mow your lawns, clean the gravel walks, cut 
and carry away all weeds, decayed flower-stems, fallen 
leaves. &c., and prepare ground for spring planting. 
S. B. Parsons. 
