HIGH CRANBERRY. 
339 
when you find it decidedly doing so, remove your 
thumb from it, and the whole piece of wood will 
come out, leaving you nothing but a piece of bark 
of about two and a half inches long, with a bud 
and foot-stalk of a leaf on it. If the root of the 
bud be carried away with the piece of wood, you 
will perceive a small cavity where it ought to be. 
In this case, throw away the bud and try another. 
Having succeeded in the second attempt, now 
open the two sides of the longitudinal bar of the 
T with the ivory haft of your budding-knife, but 
in doing this, raise the bark clearly down to the 
wood, for the inside of the piece of bark belonging 
to the bud must be placed directly against this. 
Having opened these sides wide enough to receive 
the longest end of the bark, insert it nicely, taking 
especial care that its inner side be flatly against 
the wood of the stock. Then cut the upper end 
of the bark off, so that its edge shall meet precise¬ 
ly the edge of the horizontal bar of the T (3, a.) 
With your finger and thumb bring the two sides 
of the longitudinal bar over the bark of the bud, 
or rather the shield, and with a piece of well- 
soaked matting, begin an inch below this bar and 
bind firmly all the way up to an inch above the 
horizontal bar, taking good care to leave the bud 
peeping out. Bind in such a way as to exclude 
the air, for that is the intent of binding in this 
case. Tie your piece of matting on first, and wind 
it round and round the stock as you would a riband, 
taking care not to twist the matting; wind it 
slowly, and every time you have gone completely 
round, give a gentle pull to make it firm. 
Future Treatment .—In a fortnight’s time from 
the operation, you will discover whether the bud 
has taken, by its roundness and healthy look; and, 
in a fortnight after that, loosen the bandage to al¬ 
low the plant to swell, and in about five weeks 
from the time of budding, take away the bandage 
altogether. In this state, the plant passes the 
winter, and just as the sap begins to be in motion 
in the following spring, you head down the stock 
at about an inch above the bud, beginning behind 
it, and making a sloping cut upward to end above 
its point. Some gardeners leave a piece of the 
stock about six inches long for the first year, in 
order to tie the first summer’s shoot to it to pre¬ 
vent its being broken off by the wind. This may 
be well when the plant is exposed to high winds, 
but even then, if you see danger, you may tie a 
short stick on the top part of the stock, and to this 
tie the young shoot, and then the sap all goes into 
the shoot from the bud, instead of being divided 
between it and six inches of stock left in the other 
way. There are some advantages which budding 
has over grafting, and these I think it right lo men¬ 
tion. In the first place, universal experience has 
proved that certain trees succeed much better 
when budded, than the same trees do when graft¬ 
ed, such are the peach, nectarine, apricot, plum, 
and cherry; indeed, the rule is, that all stone-fruits 
do better budded than grafted, that they are, when 
budded, less given to gum, a disease peculiar to 
stone-fruits, and often very pernicious to them. 
You may also, by budding, put two more branches 
upon a stock that would be too weak to take so 
many grafts, and you may bud in July when 
grafting has failed in March and April. The dis¬ 
advantage of budding is that the trees are render¬ 
ed one year later in coming into bearing than when 
you graft. 
Mr. Knight has recommended a mode of bud¬ 
ding, (Hort. Trans., vol. I.) He thus describes the 
process: In the month of June, as the luxuriant 
shoots of my peach-trees were grown sufficiently 
firm to permit the operation, I inserted buds of 
other varieties into them, employing two dis¬ 
tinct ligatures to bind the buds in* their places. 
One ligature was first placed above the bud in¬ 
serted, and upon the transverse section through 
the bark; the other which had no further office 
than that of securing the bud, was applied in the 
usual way. As soon as the buds had attached 
themselves, the ligatures last applied were taken 
off, but the others were suffered to remain. The 
passage of the sap upward, was in consequence 
much obstructed, and the inserted bud began to 
vegetate strongly in July, and when these had af¬ 
forded shoots about four inches long, the remain¬ 
ing ligatures were taken off to admit the excess 
of sap to pass on, and the young shoots were nail¬ 
ed to the wall, being there properly exposed to 
light, their wood ripened well, and afforded blos¬ 
soms in the succeeding spring. 
We should be pleased if any of our readers could 
give us further information about the shrub de¬ 
scribed below. 
From, the Yankee Blade. 
HIGH CRANBERRY. 
A gentleman of this place having occasion some 
twenty years ago, to make an excursion into the 
northern part of the state, near Lake Umbagog, 
where the Magalloway empties into the Andros¬ 
coggin, passed through a large piece of low land, 
comprising many acres, which was covered with 
the high cranberry as far as the eye could see, ex¬ 
hibiting the most beautiful and splendid appear¬ 
ance, perhaps, ever displayed from any of the 
spontaneous productions of the forests of New 
England. He says that some shrubs which had 
acquired the magnitude of trees of several inches 
diameter, were literally bent to the ground, under 
the weight of their luxuriant fruit; and such was 
their abundance, that a single individual might 
have gathered more than thirty bushels in a day. 
The high cranberry in dense forests, sometimes 
acquires the respectable altitude of 15 or 20 feet; 
but in more open places, its height is generally 
from 6 to 8 or 10 feet. Its stem and leaf very 
much resemble those of the snow-ball; and the 
flower, while it lasts, is but little inferior in ele¬ 
gance and beauty to the flower of that highly or¬ 
namented and much esteemed shrub. The fruit 
is smaller than that of the running cranberry, of a 
bright red color when ripe, and grows in large, 
flat clusters on the ends of the branches. Its taste 
is very acid, and rather austere. It contains a 
large, hard, flat seed, which is an objection to the 
use of it without sifting or straining; but being 
sifted or strained after stewing, it is excellent for 
sauce, pies, and tarts. Prepared with sugar, in 
the usual way, it makes a most delicious jelly. 
