1879.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST 
4:7 
<4 Draining for Profit and. Health.”— 
There are certain works which may be regarded as 
standard authorities on their special topics. When first 
published they gave the best exposition of the matter 
treated to be found, and rendered any other publication 
on that subject unnecessary, for a long while to come. A 
work of this character is “Draining for Profit and 
Health,” by Col. Geo. E. Waring, Jr., and we might go 
on issuing it year after year, in the confidence that, for 
many years to come, no other work would supersede it. 
Still there are improvements in so simple a matter as tile 
draining, and though those are not likely to be so great 
in many years to come, as to make a new work necessary, 
it is our desire that the purchaser, when he buys a work, 
shall have one in which the information is brought up to 
the present time. With this in view, we have, with our 
standard works in all departments, adopted this plan. 
Instead of reprinting the work as originally produced, 
year after year, we give additional chapters, which allow 
the author to add whatever may be new, or to correct and 
modify such teachings in the original as time and later 
experience have shown to need changing. As with other 
standard works, a New Edition of Waring’s Draining is 
not a mere reprint, but actually a new edition, in which 
by the use of additional Chapters, the work is brought 
up to the present time. A new edition is now in press, in 
which the body of the work is thoroughly revised, and 
new matter added. Sent post-paid, by mail, for $1.50. 
A Self-Acting Whip.—When visiting a dairy 
farm in Orange County not long ago, we noticed that the 
churns were driven by a power operated by a fat and lazy 
pony, in a shed 
near the dairy. 
The pony is often 
inclined to lag, 
thus lessening the 
speed of the pow¬ 
er, and making 
the churning irregular. To keep him to a sense of 
his duty, a board, 2% feet x 8 inches, is filled with 
ten-penny nails having sharpened points, as represented 
in the engraving. This is hung up a foot or so behind 
the pony, so that when he lags the nail points tickle his 
fat thighs and start him up without hurting him much. 
The “Hub” Almanac for 1879, from the 
“ Hub ” Publishing Co., of N. Y., is a good sample of the 
printing done at that establishment, which, by the way, 
has an interesting history. The older boys and girls all 
remember Webster’s spelling books—well, they were all 
made, more than a million of them, in the building where 
the *■ Hub ” is printed, at 323 Pearl Street. With such a 
history for their building, the “ Hub ” people think they 
must turn out good work, and they live well up to their 
inclinations. The “Hub” is said to be the best journal 
in the world devoted to the interests of the carriage 
building industry, and certainly none can be handsomer. 
Stoclc Needed for an 80-acre Farm.—“T. 
B.,” Philadelphia. The stock required for an 80-acre 
farm would depend on the system of farming followed. 
In grain growing and in general farming there would be 
needed two horses, wagon, and two carts and harnesses; 
light wagon; 2 or 3 plows; 2 or 3 harrows, cultivator, 
mowing machine, seed drill. 6 to 10 cows, possibly a 2- 
horse power and thrashing machine, a corn-sheller, fod¬ 
der-cutter, 2 or 3 brood sows and a boar, possibly 20 or 
30 sheep; and a lot of small tools such as scythes, reap¬ 
ing cradles, rakes, corn-knives, shovels, hay-forks, ma¬ 
nure-forks, etc., etc. These would cost from $2,000 to 
$3,000. A good outfit for an 80 or 100 acre farm could 
not be purchased for much less than $2,000. 
Basket Items continued on page 73. 
Bee-Keeping for Everybody. 
Notes for Beginners. 
BY L. C. BOOT, MOHAWK, N. T. 
[Those who make a business of bee-keeping, and count 
their hives by the hundred, and those who have had long 
experience with a small apiary, are perfectly familiar 
with matters that are entirely new to the novice. The 
keeper of bees for profit will not only have at band the 
best practical work on bees as a reference and guide, 
but be will have all the useful literature on the subject 
as a part of bis outfit, or stock in trade. But there are 
hundreds who would keep a 
few hives, to afford a family g A-A»A«AAAA^AA a 
supply of honey, did they 
know how to begin, or feel Fig. 1. 
that they could accomplish this without making a study 
of apiculture, and that there were not so many difficul¬ 
ties that only experts can hope to sncceed with them. 
Why should not every farmer and every villager keep 
bees? There is an abundance of honey waiting to be 
gathered. But a small share of tl(e sweets secreted by 
flowers is harvested, the rest going to waste. In Europe, 
Fig. 3.—langstroth’s hanging comb hive. 
bee-keeping is vastly more common than it is with us, 
and if the rude methods followed there are successful, 
our improved management, in the hands of onr more in¬ 
telligent rural population, should produce still better re¬ 
sults. With a view to encourage the keeping of bees 
more generally, and knowing tiiat a largo share of the 
readers of the American Agriculturist expect to find in 
its pages all the instruction on rural matters that they 
need, we have requested Mr. L. C. Root to prepare a 
series of notes especially for beginners, which shall show 
the inexperienced how to begin and how to continue.— 
Eds.]— The procuring of the bees comes later in the sea¬ 
son; the important topic at this time is the selection of 
THE PROPER HIVE. 
Some form of movable frame hive must be adopted if 
bee-keeping is to be made successful or profitable. In 
some sections, patented hives are yet offered to the pub¬ 
lic, but I shall describe 
two forms of hives, which 
embody all that is essen¬ 
tial to success, neither of 
which is justly covered by 
a patent. Parties desir¬ 
ing to make these hives 
may do so, and not be 
obliged to pay for a right 
Fig. 3.—FRAME TO FIG. 2. to uie t' lera - It > s ,l0t - ne¬ 
cessary to enumerate the 
advantages of the movable-comb hive over all others, 
they will appear in the instructions given for their use. 
THE HANGING FRAME OR LANGSTROTH HIVE. 
This is simple, and I have found it to be very practical 
in use. To make this hive, cut two pieces of board 18% 
inches long, 12 in. wide, and %-in. thick. Rabbet the 
ends %-in. wide, and %-in. deep, to receive the end 
pieces. This will allow the corners to be nailed together 
from each way, making it much stronger. Next cut two 
pieces 12% in. long, 12 in. wide, and % thick. At one 
edge of each of these pieces rabbet one corner, so that 
when it stands the rabbeted side up, the corner removed 
will be %-in. deep each way. Nail these four pieces to¬ 
gether, forming a box. 17 in. long, 12 in. wide, and 12 in. 
high, inside, with the rabbeting at the inside of the top 
of the ends, for the frames to hang upon. Across the 
bottom of the hive, at the center, an iron piece (fig. 1) 
for steadying the frames at equal distances apart, should 
be placed. This should be let in even with the bottom 
of the hive. For a bottom board, cut a piece 1S% in. 
long, 13% in. wide, and 
%-in. thick. Cut two 
cleats 13% in. long, and 
1% in. square. Nail these 
on each end, with wrought 
nails, clinching them firm¬ 
ly. Cut an entrance in 
the bottom board, 4 in. 
wide,and %-in. deep at the 
front edge, and gradually 
rising to the surface of the 
board 4 in. back. For a top, Fi£? 4._ QUINBY FRAME, 
cut a board same size as 
bottom. Cut two cleats 12% in. long, 1% in. wide, and 
%-in thick. Nail these across the top 1 in. from the end 
and an equal distance from each edge, clinching all nails 
well. It is well to bore holes for nails in all the cleats 
to prevent splitting. The top and bottom arc not to be 
fastened to the hive. For a cap to cover the top and 
protect the boxes, cut two pieces 19% in. long • % -in. 
thick, and wide enough to make the cap of sufficient 
depth to receive the boxes to be used. Rabbet the ends 
%-in. deep and %-in. wide, to receive the end pieces, in 
the same manner as the body of the hive. Cut two pieces 
same width 13?a in. long, and %-iu. thick, for ends. Cut 
a rabbet in one corner of each of these four pieces %-in. 
deep each way, so that when nailed together, the rabbet¬ 
ing will come on the inside lower edge. This is to fit 
the top of the hive, and hold the cap in place. A board 
19% in. long, and 14% in. wide, nailed upon the top, will 
complete the cap. A handle for the hive and cap, as 
shown in fig. 2, may be cut with a chisel. Fig. 2 repre¬ 
sents this hive, only the side shows the closed door of 
an observatory hive. [We are obliged, for want of space, 
to leave the Obervatory-hive for another month. Ed ] 
For a frame to this hive, cut a piece 17% in. long, %-in. 
wide, and %-in. thick. At each end, %-in. should be cut 
away %-in. from the end. This is the top bar of the 
frame. For the bottom bar, cut a strip 10 in. long, %-in. 
: wide, and %-in. thick. For the ends, cut two pieces 11% 
in. long, %-in. wide, and %-in. thick. Nail these togeth¬ 
er, as shown in fig. 3. Small blocks nailed in each corner 
will strengthen it. Eight frames are required for each hive. 
THE STANDING-FRAME, OIt QUINBY niVE. 
The simplest form of this hive is made with a bottom 
board, similar to the one described, but two inches 
wider. At the rear end of the bottom board, %-in. from 
the edge, a channel should be cut one inch wide, and 
%-in. deep. Over the front edge of this channel nail a 
piece of hoop-iron, projecting backward over it, to 
within one inch of the rear end of the bottom board. 
Over the entrance in front nail apiece of hoop-iron %-in. 
from the end, upon which the frames may rest. For the 
ends of the frame cut two pieces 12 in. long, 1%-in. wide, 
and %-in. thick. Cut the top bar 1G in. long, %-in. 
wide, and %-in. thick, and the bottom bar of the same 
size and %-in. thick. Nail all together, as shown in fig. 
4, with blocks in the corners to strengthen it. The top 
Fig. 5. —QUINBY, OR STANDING COMB HIVE. 
and bottom should be %-in. from the ends of the end 
pieces. Upon the bottom of one of the end pieces nail a 
hook made of a piece of 1-in. hoop-iron 2% in. long, bent 
to a right angle % of an inch from one end. Punch two 
holes in the longer end, and nail it, as shown in the fig¬ 
ure, with %-in clout nails. A little space should be left 
between it, and the end of the frame. This will hook 
under the strip of hoop-iron, on the rear of the bottom 
board, and hold the frame in an upright position. Eight 
of these frames may be placed side by side. At each out¬ 
side place a panel or board the size of the frame. The 
frames and panels, or boards, may be held together with 
a strong fine cord. Make a tight-fitting box or cap of 
proper size to fit over all, resting upon the bottom board. 
Fig. 5 shows this hive with the cap removed. The man¬ 
ner of placing boxes on this hive will be described here¬ 
after. A detailed description and illustration of the full- 
sized Quinby Hive appeared in the American Agricultur¬ 
ist for January, 1S76. That presents a slight difference 
in the size of the frames, and in the outer case. 
BEE NOTES—ANSWEF.S. 
Patented Quilt. —“ C. S.,” of Mo., says that an agent 
of a Mr. Mitchell claims that the principle of placing a 
quilt, rags, carpeting, etc., upon the frames to absorb 
the moisture arising from the bees, is patented, and de¬ 
mands a royalty. Mr. C. asks if he is entitled to it. — I do 
not know anything about Mr. Mitchell’s claim, but I do 
know that quilts are used, for the purpose mentioned, 
by all extensive bee-keepers, without being molested. 
Swarming.—” E. W.,” of Sag Harbor, N. Y., asks why 
his two hives of bees do not swarm.—Very, probably they 
have done so without his knowledge. If he will adopt 
either of the above movable-comb hives, he will be able 
to ascertain the exact condition of his bees. 
