1879.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
well for missing bolts ; change round for square 
headed bolts, and put everything in working order. 
Handy things to have: A box of copper rivets 
and burs, a coil of stout copper wire, a few dozen 
mixed screws, an assortment of carriage bolts, an 
awl and a few wax ends, a bottle of harness dress¬ 
ing, a pound or two of assorted wrought nails, a few 
loose links for broken chains, half a dozen brass 
knobs for cows’ horns, a small anvil, a box of axle 
grease (a mixture of black lead and palm oil is the 
best), a quart can of sperm oil for machines, 5 gal¬ 
lons of crude petroleum, a small supply of simple 
medicines and a medicine horn,—all these, and a 
closet to keep them in, will be found valuable in the 
saving of time, money, and irritation, when an occa¬ 
sion of pressing need comes during the busy season. 
Notes for the Orchard and Garden. 
If asked to suggest a motto to be kept in mind 
by every cultivator the present month, it would be 
“ Make haste Slowly.” There is the danger, how¬ 
ever, that many might observe the “slowly,” and 
forget that it was coupled with “ make haste.” 
March is practically, throughout the Northern and 
Middle States, the last month of winter, and in it 
there can be done but little otherthan winter work. 
No matter when spring opens to our readers, 
whether it be in February or May, there will be a 
temptation to begin to work the soil too early. The 
days of waiting for the soil to get in proper con¬ 
dition are by no means wasted days ; they allow a 
little longer for thorough preparation for work. 
The only way in which we can abridge the time re¬ 
quired for the soil to get ready is by draining, and 
at no time can we better judge where drains are need¬ 
ed than the present. Occasionally a correspondent 
suggests that our Notes about work do not suit his 
locality. Of course- we can not make Notes that 
shaM at once suit Canada and New Zealand, and we 
expect our readers to exercise judgment in apply¬ 
ing them. We endeavor to have them well in ad¬ 
vance of the season for the great majority of our 
readers. In our directions for planting and sowing, 
two periods are mentioned, and as these occur 
everywhere except in very warm countries, our 
Notes have a wide application. The first period is 
“as soon as the ground can be worked.” This 
means early spring, just so soon as the water has 
drained off and dried away sufficiently to allow the 
soil to crumble and not work pasty before the plow 
or under the spade. The second period is usually 
expressed by “when the soil is well warmed ”—we 
some times say “at corn planting time,” which 
means the same thing. In every locality experience 
has taught farmers that, take the average of sea¬ 
sons, there is a date at which it is safe for them to 
plant their corn; this date will vary in the same 
county, but it is well fixed for each neighbor¬ 
hood, and is the safest guide for sowing seeds of 
tender plants, or for setting out those plants that 
have been started under glass_We have letters 
asking where to purchase different articles, more 
numerous than usual. We can only answer these 
in case of specialties, things to be had in but 
one place. If the advertisement of a nursery¬ 
man, a florist, a seedsman, or a dealer in imple¬ 
ments, appears in our advertising columns, it is an 
indication that we would order of him, did we 
require what he has for 6ale. Those who make 
such inquiries should bear in mind that each dealer 
keeps all the ordinary articles in his line—each 
nurseryman, for example, has all of the fruit and 
ornamental trees generally kept by others, and so 
with seedsmen and others. In the case of novel¬ 
ties and specialties, these are set forth in the ad¬ 
vertisements ... .We repeat our advice to order early, 
no matter what kind of stock it may be. It insures 
getting what is ordered before the stock runs low, 
and being better served in every way. Order and re¬ 
ceive seeds, trees, plants, etc., as early as may be, but 
in sowing or planting them “ Make haste Slowly.” 
Orchard and Nursery. 
It has been more f han once stated, that so far as 
these Notes apply to the nursery, it is not to the 
commercial nursery, but to the farmer’s or orchard- 
ist’s nursery, where trees are raised for the home 
use, or to supply the neighbors. See January last. 
Tree Seeds should be sown as early as the ground 
cau be worked, as it is desirable to get all possible 
growth before the drouth of summer comes on. 
Peach Seeds that have been kept in boxes of earth, 
or mixed with earth in heaps, should be planted in 
nursery rows, 3 or 4 feet apart. The stones are to be 
separated from the soil by means of a coarse sieve 
or riddle, and only those that have cracked the 
shells, are planted about 3 inches apart in the rows, 
and covered 2 or 3 inches deep. If the halves of 
the shell fall away, all the better ; the seed is to be 
planted the same. Crack the stones not loosened 
by a light blow upou the edge. 
Budded Stocks. —Those nursery trees that were 
budded last summer, will need attention when the 
buds begin to swell, and it is known that the in¬ 
serted buds have “taken.” All above the bud is 
to be removed, that this bud may have the whole 
nourishment supplied by the root. Remove the 
stock with one cut of a sharp knife, leaving 
about half an inch above the bud.....Most of the 
Spring Work in the Orchard was noted last month. 
All pruning, and renovating old trees, may be 
done at a time when other work is not possible. 
Grafting is one of those operations requiring 
to be described so minutely, that we cannot give 
the details every season. Those who propose to 
graft, and have not Barry’s “Fruit Garden,” or 
other full treatise, may find sufficient for their pur¬ 
pose in these Notes for April 1877—which may be 
had at this office for 15 cents. 
Bo not Graft too Early. —Those who go about 
the country to do grafting, wish to make them sea¬ 
son as long as possible, and begin to set grafts in 
February. It should not be done until the buds on 
the tree to be grafted begin to swell, and show that 
vegetation is active. Make preparations and 
Secure Cions if it has not been done. Cions when 
inserted, should always be dormant, and if not al¬ 
ready cut, do it at once before the buds wake up. 
Planting Trees is a job that should not be hurried. 
It is not fair treatment of a tree to put it into a hole 
with clods of wet, half frozen earth around its roots. 
If trees are received before the ground is ready, 
Heel them in and let them wait. Select a dry place 
where the soil is light, open a trench, and lay in 
the trees in a slanting position—at an angle of 45°, 
one after another, carefully covering the roots and 
lower part of the stem of each with soil. See that 
each tree is properly labeled, or if there are a num¬ 
ber of a kind, place a stake to mark them in such a 
manner that there will be no doubt about their 
names when they are taken out. Care now, will 
save much trouble in future. When properly 
heeled in the trees are safe for a month or more. 
Late Frosts are often destructive, especially to 
peach trees at the South. We advise those who 
fear frosts on the well advanced buds or blossoms 
to try the method found effective in the vineyards 
on the Rhine— i. e., to envelope the trees in 
A Cloud of Smoke. —Every one has observed that 
frost is rarely deposited in a cloudy night; in fact, 
whatever prevents radiation, and the cooling of the 
tree below a certain point prevents frost. A thin 
paper or fabric will protect very tender plants, and 
even a cloud of smoke will do the same. In the 
vineyards referred to, when frost is feared, fires are 
built and then damp straw or other litter—whatever 
will make a dense smudge—is thrown upon them. 
As frost rarely occurs except on still nights, the 
smoke will not blow away. Moreover, it is found 
that the mischief is usually done within an hour or 
two of sunrise, and that it is not necessary to start 
the fires until then. This method so effective in 
vineyards should be equally so in peach orchards, 
and we hope it will have a fair trial this season. 
The Fruit Garden.—Small Fruits. 
Read the Notes of the past two months, which 
give some useful suggestions to beginners. Plant 
just so soon as the ground is in condition—but not 
before, as some of the plants start very early. If a 
new garden is to be made, select a warm well 
drained soil, and enrich it thoroughly; it is desira¬ 
ble to have it near the house, not only for the con- 
83 
venience of the family, but as a security against 
trespassers. Our advice in this, as in other depart¬ 
ments, is: make the main planting of well estab¬ 
lished varieties, and try as many of the new kinds 
offered by dealers as can be afforded. 
Blackberries. —Plant not nearer than 6 feet. The 
“Kittatinny” best for general culture. “Snyder 
is of good promise. 
Currants.— Set 4 or 5 feet apart. For varieties, 
“ Versailles *’ and “‘White Grape.” 
Gooseberries. —Same as currants. “Downing,” 
“Smith’s Improved.” 
Grapes. —The distance apart will depend upon the 
method of training; if on a regular trellis 8 feet will 
answer for most varieties. But vines can be set 
anywhere and everywhere; against fences, sheds, 
the barn, the house; wherever there is room in the 
ground for the roots, and space to train them, put 
vines. If but one vine, plant “ Concord.” “Dela¬ 
ware,” “Creveling,” “Wilder,” “Barry,” and 
“ Eumelan,” are all good, and generally succeed. 
New and excellent kinds are offered by dealers. 
Pears. —Dwarf trees may be grown in the garden 
and afford a fair amount of choice fruit, while their 
cultivation will afford much pleasure; but for fruit 
in quantities plant standards in the orchard. Set 
dwarfs 8 or 10 feet apart. The variety is bewildering. 
For one dwarf tree, the “ Duchesse d’Angouleme.” 
Raspberries. —Set 4 feet apart. We are at loss to 
recommend any one red raspberry; probably the 
Brandywine succeeds over a wider range than any 
other. There are a number of great promise, in¬ 
cluding the “ Cuthbert.” See page 101. Of Black 
Caps, the “Mammoth Cluster.” 
Strawberries. —Set the plants one foot apart with 
two feet between the rows, for garden ; for field 
culture put the rows 3 feet apart. The best one 
berry for family use that we know of is “ Charles 
Downing.” Newer sorts are numerous, and some 
of great merit, as will be seen by the catalogues. 
Kitchen and Market Garden. 
To a large share of our more northern readers, the 
Notes of last month are timely, and the preparatory 
matters there indicated should receive attention. 
Cold Frame Pants, i. e., those that were wintered 
in frames, should go out as early as the soil can be 
worked. Cabbages, Cauliflowers and Lettuce, are 
the plants thus treated. These should be well hard¬ 
ened by opening the frames every day when it does 
not freeze; gardeners near New 1 ork City take 
off the sashes altogether early this month. 
Early Cabbages and Cauliflowers. —The earliest crop 
is from the plants-thus treated. The ground should 
be heavily manured—75 tons of stable manure to 
the acre is not unusual, or part manure, and enough 
guano to make the whole equal to the above heavy 
manuring. The ground is marked out in rows 24 to 
30 inches apart, and the plants set every 16 inches. 
Lettuce from the Frames is set a foot apart in rows 
between the Cabbages and Cauliflowers. 
Sowing in Hot-beds, Frames, or Window Boxes, 
should be done about 6 weeks before plants can be 
6et out. See last month. Cabbages, Cauliflowers, 
Lettuce and Tomatoes are first sown, Egg Plants 
and Peppers a month later. Sow in boxes as directed 
last month, and if the best plants are desired, trans¬ 
plant as soon as they have made two leaves besides 
the seed-leaves, into other boxes of good soil, at 
least an inch apart—two inches is better. 
Hardening Plants. —As the time approaches for 
setting the plants in the open ground, they should 
be exposed freely, at first during the day, and later 
when the weather will allow, by night also. In hot¬ 
beds and frames, this may be done by removing the 
sashes. In window boxes, set them out doors. 
Sowing Seeds. —Those which may be sown in the 
open ground as soon as that can be made ready, are 
of northern origin, and will grow when the tempera¬ 
ture is from 45°—upwards. These are designated as 
Hardy Vegetables.— The principal are, Beet Cab¬ 
bage, Carrot, Cress, Cauliflower, Celery, Endive, 
Lettuce, Parsley, Parsnip, Onions, Peas, Radish, 
Turnip and Spinach. 
Tender Vegetables, not to be sown until the soil is 
