142 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[April, 
of a grape vine. Our present object is to get the 
vines planted—the pruning we will look out for 
later. If it is not desired to make a small vine¬ 
yard, then take advantage of whatever affords a 
support. The sides of barns, sheds, and other 
out-buildings, fences, the back stoop of the house, 
and even the front veranda, if not occupied by or¬ 
namental climbers. Wherever there is room, plant 
a vine every 8 feet. “ What shall we plant ? ” will, 
■of course, be asked. When the question was put 
to us at random twenty years ago, we answered 
“Concord and now, if we must answer without 
reference to any particular locality, we must say 
“Coucord.” As we cultivate some fifty or sixty 
varieties, we are well aware that there are mauy 
better grapes. We are also well aware that there 
is no one of the lot that may be set down anywhere 
and be so sure to give fruit as the “Concord.” We 
■advise the inexperienced, whatever others they may 
plant, to let a share of their vines be “Coucord.” ; 
When we come to others, there is a long list. The 
Southern States have their peculiar varieties, which 
do better there than any others. “ Wilder,” 
“Barry,” “ Delaware,” “Creveling,” and where it 
succeeds, the “Catawba,” are all old sorts and 
good. The newer ones are so many that we must 
refer to the catalogues. Whatever the variety, at 
planting, cut back the stem so as to leave but three 
buds; when the shoots from these have fairly 
started, break off all but the strongest one and 
keep this, as it grows, tied to a stake 5 or 6 feet 
high. If it grows taller than the stake, let it go as 
it will. Currants are so acceptable in hot weather 
and so useful for jelly, that one is not likely to 
have too many. Plant them 6 feet apart, not against 
a fence, but where they can be reached on all sides, 
and allow three or four main stems to grow. The 
“Versailles” and “White Grape” are among the 
best; the new “ Fay’s Prolific ” very promising. 
Hake an Asparagus Bed. 
Asparagus is as easily raised as anything that 
grows in the garden, and yet it is comparatively 
rare to find it upon the farmer's table. The reason 
may be that much nonsense has been published 
about the difficulties of raising it, and that we have 
to wait two or three years for the full maturity of 
the plant. It is true that a full crop will not be 
given in less than three years, but when the bed is 
once made, the job is done for a dozen or twenty- 
years. If made this spring, there will be one year 
the less to wait. Any good well-drained soil that 
will bear corn is suitable for Asparagus. Put in a 
half-cord of manure for every four square rods of 
ground. Work it in thoroughly. Set out one-year- 
old plants, in rows four feet apart, and two feet in 
the row-. They can be kept clean then with the 
harrow or cultivator. It should have cultivation 
once in two weeks, through the growing season. 
Cover the bed with manure in the fall, and fork it 
under in the spring. Cultivate thoroughly through 
the second season and top-dress as before. The 
second season a few stalks may be cut in April and 
May, but there should be no close cutting until the 
third year, and this should not be continued later 
than the middle of June. The plants must have 
time to grow, and recuperate in midsummer, or 
the bed will soon fail. The secret of large fine 
Asparagus is abundant manure, applied in the fall 
every season, thorough cultivation until the tops 
preveut, and stopping the cutting by the middle 
of June. The blanched Asparagus that is so pop¬ 
ular in some markets, is secured by covering the 
beds with sea-weed, straw, or other mulch. It is 
poor stuff in comparison with the long, green, 
tender shoots that have had the full benefit of the 
sunlight on a rich soil. The leading varieties are 
the “Colossal” and “Defiance,” and are adver¬ 
tised by the seedsmen and other dealers each spring. 
English Beans. 
Several very distinct plants are in cultivation 
under the name of Bean. The English, or Broad 
Bean, the Common Garden or Kidney Bean, the 
Lima and the Asparagus Beaus, belonging not only 
to different species, but to three different genera. 
The English Bean ( Faba) differs from the com¬ 
mon kinds, not only in the erect growth of the 
plant, and the large size and shape of the seeds, 
but in being very hardy. While the common kinds 
are exceedingly tender, this is not injured by frost, 
and endures cold much better than heat. In this 
country they are seldom grown, save by those who 
have been accustomed to them abroad. Our seeds¬ 
men keep a few varieties, of which “ Early Maza- 
gan” is the earliest. Plant at the earliest possible 
time in spring, dropping the seeds four inches 
apart, in drills, and covering two inches deep, or 
by dibbling them in singly. When the lower pods 
begin to set, the top of the plant is to be pinched 
out. Hot weather soon stops their growth, and 
the plants are apt to be infested by a black louse. 
Beefs For tlae Garden. 
Those who only know the long late “Blood 
Beet,” have yet to learn the difference in beets. 
As soon as any part of the garden can be worked, 
a sowing of early beets should be made. Select a 
light soil if possible, and manure it well; make the 
rows a foot apart, sow the seed thickly, at least 2 
inches deep, and press down the soil firmly with a 
light roller, or pat it down with the hoe. The 
earliest varieties are the “Egyptian,” and “Blood 
Turnip.” The “ Bassano” is not quite so early, or 
so fine grained, though good. The thick sowing is 
advised in order to have a plenty of young beets at 
thinning; when two or three inches high, thin to 
4 to 6 inches in the row, saving those that are pulled 
out to be used as “greens.” Many prefer them 
even to spinach. It is well to sow seed for a suc¬ 
cession, once in two weeks up to July. The “ Blood 
Turnip ” is so much superior to any of the large 
beets, that we prefer it for winter use. For this 
purpose the seed should not be sown before the 
middle of June, else they will grow stringy. 
EiiuliIlo-\ver, Ki-occoli, :in«l Brussels 
Sprouts. 
Except the cauliflower, these relatives of the 
cabbage are little known in this country, and that is 
seldom grown except by regular gardeners. Suc¬ 
cess depends upon good seed and rich land. The 
treatment is in all respects that mentioned for cab¬ 
bages. As with cabbages there are early and late 
sorts. Early kinds can only now be had by procur¬ 
ing plants ; the late varieties may be sown when 
the late cabbage seed is put in. We have had good 
results from “Nonpariel” and “Algiers.” “Vietch’s 
Autumn Giant,” a new variety, is highly recom¬ 
mended by a friend who has tried it. 
Broccoli, so popular in England, is rare with us. 
In general appearance it is like the cauliflower, but 
is sometimes purple ; it is more hardy, but is re¬ 
garded as somewhat less delicate. Cultivation in 
all respects the same. The “ White ” and “ Purple 
Cape,” and “ Walcheren,” are the principal sorts. 
Brussels Sprouts, may be described as a tall cab¬ 
bage stump, thickly studded with little Savoy cab¬ 
bages, the size of pullet’s eggs, and with a small 
crown of leaves at the top. These little cabbages 
are the part eaten, though the top leaves, after they 
have been frozen, are edible. In taste Brussels 
sprouts closely resemble Savoy cabbages, and as a 
much larger supply of Savoys may be raised from 
the same space, it is not worth while to grow 
the sprouts, save as a curious variety. The sow¬ 
ing and culture is in ail respects like late cabbages. 
Cahhages, Early and Eate. 
Very early cabbages are rarely met with in the 
farm-garden. Market gardeners and others who raise 
the earliest, grow the plants by sowing the seed in 
September, and keeping them in a dormant condi¬ 
tion through the winter by setting them closely in 
a cold-frame. These are advertised by seedsmen 
as “Cold Frame Cabbage Plants,” and may usually 
be had at any time during the present month. 
Those who wish the earliest cabbages, if they have 
not raised plants in a hot-bed, can purchase them. 
They should have very rich soil, be set in rows 
two feet apart, with the plants every 18 inches in the 
row, and have frequent hoeing. If early plants can 
not be obtained, the next best thing is to sow seeds 
of some early variety, in a well-prepared bed in the 
open ground, and as soon as the plants are large 
enough, set them out as above. Numerous varie-! 
ties are given in the catalogues and one is puzzled 
what to select. For general use there is none bet¬ 
ter than the “ Early Winningstadt.” There are 
earlier kinds, but for good size, hardiness, and reli¬ 
ability, especially in not very rich soil, the general 
testimony is in its favor. It may be sown later as 
a winter cabbage,but some larger variety is preferred 
for keeping. For family use, the Savoy cabbages 
are superior to all others, as they have a marrow¬ 
like richness not found in the Drumhead kinds. 
As a general thing, they are not so large as the 
others, but we advise those who have not tried 
them, to make a part of their sowing for winter of 
the Savoys. Near New York City, the seeds of late 
kinds are sown early in May, and the plants are set 
out about the middle of July. Among the Savoy’s 
are the “American,” aud “Drumhead Savoy.” 
Of the common kinds, “ Flat Dutch ” and “ Bergen 
Drumhead ” are favorites. Sometimes the so- 
called “Black Flea” appears in the seed-bed, and 
if not prevented, will make sad w-ork. Sprinkling 
the plants with strong tobacco water, and then 
sifting slaked lime over them, is the best remedy. 
Sowing- Celery Seed. 
Celery is often such an uncertain crop from the 
seed, that the majority of persons prefer to buy the 
plants they need, to taking the trouble to raise them. 
It was formerly considered necessary to start, the 
seed in a hot-bed, but now it is always sown in the 
open grouud. A piece of well-manured soil is care¬ 
fully prepared, and marked off in drills 9 inches 
apart; the seed is sown thinly, and covered by rolling 
or patting the soil down with the back of the spade. 
As- soon as the seeds break ground, a push-hoe 
should be run between the rows, aud the plants 
kept clean from the start. There are several dwarf 
sorts, all of which are preferable to the tall kinds. 
Celeriac, or “ Turnip-rooted ” or “ Knob Celery,” 
the root of which is used in soups, and after 
boiling as a salad, is started in the same manner. 
Early Ciicuinliers. 
Those who have hot-beds or frames carusow cu¬ 
cumber seed, in these, after the plants are removed, 
and by covering at night and in cold days, greatly 
hasten the plants. Those who are without these, 
can forward the plants very much. Take apiece of 
good sod, lay it grass-side down upon a board, aud 
cut it in 3 or 4-inch squares with a sharp spade or 
an old knife. Sow iu the earth of each square half 
a dozen or more cucumber seeds, and place the 
board with the sods, in some warm place, under 
the shelter of a building or fence ; provide another 
board to cover the sods. Expose during the day 
and cover in the afternoon before the day grows 
cool. When the plants appear, of course the cover 
must be raised by props of some kiud ; bricks are 
handy. When the plants are large enough, and the 
weather settled, place each square of sod in a well 
manured hill; make frames of 6-inch stuff, 12 or 15 
inches square, a box without top or bottom, cover 
one end with millinet or mosquito net tacked on, 
and place one of these over each hill. This is the 
best way to keep off the striped bug. Should very 
cold nights occur, cover the tops of the boxes with 
shingles or any other handy stuff. It is not so 
much trouble as may be inferred from the descrip¬ 
tion, and will greatly advance the cucumbers. 
Melons and summer squashes may be treated iu the 
same manner as suggested for cucumbers. 
Don’t Neglect the Garden. 
No part of the farm pays better than the laud de 
voted to the garden, yet on no part is the work 
more grudgingly given. Often it will be true econ¬ 
omy to have an acre or two less of wheat, or other 
field crop, and invest the labor that would have 
been given to these upou the garden. When farm- 
