1882 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
143 
ere learn that a constant diet of corned beef and 
cabbage, varied by pork and beans—both excellent 
in their way—can be easily varied by many other, 
and not more costly forms of food, we shall hear 
less of the question : “ How to keep boys on the 
farm?” and in other forms of food, we iqclude 
an ample supply of fruits. See last month for sug¬ 
gestions on the Kitchen Garden, and the Fruit 
Garden, the hints under both heads (page 93) are 
generally timely this month. We call special atten¬ 
tion to the distinction between hardy and tender 
plants, there given under “ Kitchen and Market 
Garden,” as an observance of this classification 
may be of service to the inexperienced. 
Beaus—Snap and Shell. 
What are known with us as Beans—without pre¬ 
fix, are Kidney Beans in England, and Haricots in 
France. Whether dwarf, or bush, or pole sorts, 
they are varieties of P7iaseo!us vulgaris, of India, 
and are tropical in their relation to cold. Of late 
years, under the name of Wax Beans, a number of 
varieties have appeared in which the pod is without 
any tough lining, but becomes very fleshy and fills 
up the spaces between the seeds, which are smaller 
than in most others. Many prefer these to all other 
beans, while others find them lacking in flavor. 
Dwarf or Bush Beaks. —It is of no use to plant 
beans until the soil is warm enough to start them 
promptly. When danger of frost is over, make 
the rows two feet apart, and do not drop the seed 
too thickly. Four inches is near enough, and six 
inches is better for the large kinds. Beans should 
never be hoed or cultivated when the foliage is wet 
with dew or rain, as it causes rust. A dressing of 
plaster when the vines are half grown will often be 
'of great service. The varieties are numerous. 
“Early Valentine” is one of the best for general 
use, as “ snaps ” or string-beans. “Fejee ” is also 
good and prolific. Of the Wax sorts the “ White ” 
and “ Golden ” are favorites. For shelling green, 
perhaps none is better than the “ White Marrow.” 
Pole or Running Varieties.— One of the oldest 
and most popular is the 
“Horticultural,” also call¬ 
ed *’ Speckled Cranberry ” 
and “ Wren’s Egg ” ; it is 
used as a snap, but main¬ 
ly for shelling green. 
Among the W T ax-pole 
Beans are “Golden But¬ 
ter,” and “Algerian.” The 
old “Dutch Case Knife” 
is a favorite with many, 
its large white seeds being 
used green or dry. In 
planting, set the poles 
first, putting them in firm¬ 
ly, with a crow-bar to 
make the holes, and four 
feet apart. Put four to 
six beans around the pole, 
about six inches from it. 
Sometimes the vines do 
not take readily to the pole, and may need a little 
help at first.—“A Subscriber,” sends us a method 
by which one stout pole aud four strings answer for 
four hills. The accompanying engraving, made from 
a sketch sent shows this economical arrangement. 
Lima Beans are quite different from the fore¬ 
going, being another species ( Phaseolus lunatus), 
and the pod, however young, is never edible. They 
always require poles, and need still warmer soil 
than the others. In planting, pus.h the seeds into 
the soil singly, with the fingers, with the “eye” 
downward. Should a cold, wet storm come on 
before they are up, it will be well to dig up a few 
of the seeds, and if they have begun to rot, re- 
plantatonce. The “ Large Lima ” is more generally 
planted, save in far northern localities. “Dreer’s 
Lima” is more prolific but a little later. For 
localities where the season is too short for these, 
the “Small Lima,” called “Carolina,” “Sieva,” 
i*id “Sewee,” is more certain, but has not the 
marrow-like character of the others. 
Unusual Beans.—T he “Asparagus,” or “Yard- 
long ” Bean, a species of Dolichos, with pods two 
feet or more long, is grown as a curiosity, and is a 
very good “snap ” if taken young. The “ Scarlet 
Runner” (Phaseolus imdtijlorus) is more often culti¬ 
vated for ornament than as food. The seeds are 
edible, and as the species is perennial, in Europe 
the roots are somntimes taken up and stored 
through the winter and set out again in the spring. 
<Si*ees«s, Wi!«i send. Cultivated. 
In spring nearly every one likes what our fore¬ 
fathers called “ potherbs,” and are classed by us as 
“greens.” A large number of wild plants, from 
Dandelion and Marsh Marigold (called Cowslips, er¬ 
roneously), to Nettles and Pokeweed, are made to 
do service in different parts of the country. While 
several wild plants are very acceptable, none equal 
Spinach, and some others. The time expended in 
gathering these scattered plants, if devoted to sow¬ 
ing a few rows of spinach, would give more satis¬ 
faction, and the greens be at hand when wanted. 
Spinach is hardy, own brother to the beet; if in fairly 
rich soil it may be used from the time it is large 
enough to thin, up to the showing of the flower- 
stalk. Sow in rows, like beets, 12 inches apart; 
when large enough to be crow r ded, thin out a por¬ 
tion for use; repeat the thinning two or three times, 
leaving the last plants 6 or 8 inches apart, and these 
should be used before the seedstalk begins to run 
up. The first sowing may be among the earliest in 
the garden and again every two weeks until the end 
of May. Sown later than this it runs to seed too 
soon. For midsummer, the New Zealand Spinach 
is an excellent substitute. Do not sow until the 
soil is well warmed, in May, drop the seeds 6 inches 
apart in the drill, aud when up, thin to a foot apart. 
The plant spreads and the rows should be two feet 
apart. The excellence of young beets is mentioned 
elsewhere. Some persons sow beet seed expressly 
to use the young plants for greens. 
Long Itows in tile Garden. 
Works on gardening give plans for laying out 
the ground—certain beds to be put in one place, 
with paths here and there. This is all well in order 
to make the most of a small piece of ground. With 
the farmer’s garden the case is different, as there 
are few farms where a square rod or two more or 
less in the garden is of importance. In such a 
garden there should be very few beds, but all the 
larger vegetables should be placed in long, straight 
rows, in order that the working may be done, so 
far as practicable, with the horse cultivator. The 
permanent beds, such as those of rhubarb, and 
: asparagus, should be near one another and at one 
side of the land to be occupied by the annual crops. 
Iu sowing or planting it, the cultivator used upon 
the farm is also to do work in the garden ; this is 
i to be borne in mind in laying out the rows, which 
should be at such distances as will allow of the 
passage of the implement. Iu going to or coming 
from farm work, the cultivator may often take a 
few turns iu the garden. Those who have never 
tried horse-power in the garden, will be surprised 
at the great help it is in keeping it in proper order, 
and it Swill go far to do away with the complaint 
that the garden “ takes too much time.” 
M©a\«*ersid.isia. 
Horseradish is more frequently tolerated than 
cultivated on the farm. It is often found occupy¬ 
ing some odd corner, making a slovenly weedy 
patch, from which a few pieces are taken as wanted 
in the spring. When left to itself it takes such 
thorough possession of the soil that it is difficult 
to get rid of it. The only way to keep it under 
control is, to plant the roots, let them grow one 
season and then dig the whole up. If left longer 
it will make trouble, and the roots will not be so 
good. Sets, are the smallside roots, about 6 inches 
long, and half an inch or less in diameter. They 
are made when trimming the roots for use or for 
market; as they must be planted right end up, the 
top part is cut off square and the lower end with a 
6lant. In this shape they are sold at the seed 
stores, but enough for the home garden may be 
dug from any accessible patch. Market gardeners 
plant them between the rows of early cabbages ; if 
they start before the cabbages are mature, the tops 
are cut off in hoeing; when the cabbages are re¬ 
moved the horseradish is allowed to grow. In the 
family garden a small planting may be made with¬ 
out reference to the cabbage or other crops, planting 
the sets 18 inches apart each way, with a sharp 
pointed dibble, having the tops of the set 3 inches 
below the surface. Be sure and take up the roots, 
large and small, in autumn or early next spring. 
iiCttucc :iib( 1 oiher Salads. 
It is very common to see lettuce sown quite 
thickly, and when the young plants are three or 
four inches high, they are pulled for the table. 
While this is better than no lettuce, it is so much 
inferior to that properly grown, and allowed room 
to develop so as to head, that we advise those who 
have never transplanted it to make the experiment. 
The seeds can be sown in a sheltered bed, or iu a 
box (see page 95, last month), which may be covered 
or put under shelter on a cold night. When the 
plants are large enough to handle, set them about 
a foot apart. As the excellence of lettuce depends 
upon rapid growth, it should have a very rich soil, 
and frequent hoeing. Sowings made every two 
weeks, until July, will give a succession. During 
the hot months it soon runs to seed. The varieties 
are numerous, the “ Curled Simpson ” is one of the 
earliest, but does not make a solid head. “ Tennis 
Ball ” and “ Butter,” head well and are fine. “ Han¬ 
son ” is a large kind and one of the best.—Many 
like Cress or Pepper-grass with their lettuce. It is 
sown thickly in rows, and cut while young and ten¬ 
der. Mustard is sometimes sown to be used iu a 
similar manner when very small. 
Horc fiJi-eeia 1'eas, if you Please. 
If there is any body wko does not enjoy good 
green peas iu abundance, we have never met him— 
or her. We have them from May to August, fresh 
picked daily, of uniform growth, for a single 
ripening pod injures the flavor of the whole ; and 
from August to May, we have the canned “La 
Favorita ” variety, which, as we get it, is next door 
to the fresh garden picked. It is little trouble 
now to grow one’s own peas, earlyq medium, and 
late varieties. Given a fair soil, with some well 
rotted manure, if it is needed, and our programme 
runs thus : Just as soon as the snow is off and deep 
freezing not expected, and the ground dry enough 
to work at all, in go the peas, even if the first heads 
starting do get a frost nip—peas will stand that. 
We plant some “Improved Daniel O’Rourke,” 
and some “Alpha;” also some of the “Ameri¬ 
can Wonder,” and some “ Champion of England,” 
all on the same day. The first-named is com¬ 
paratively poor, but cooked in milk with a trifle of 
sugar added, it goes very well—far better than 
none. The “Daniel O’Rourke ” is early and prolific, 
but needs a little brush as it grows 3-feet stalks. 
By the time the O’Rourke aud Alpha are eaten, in 
comes the American Wonder, aud a wonder it is for 
its prolificuess, dwarf stems, no brush needed, and 
its superior eating quality—the only very early 
dwarf wrinkled pea, and “wrinkled” applied to 
peas is almost synonymous with good quality (see 
page 183 last month). By the time these go, along 
comes the king pea, “Champion of England.” 
There are others like it, claimed to be better ; this 
is good enough for us, and seed is abundant and 
cheap almost everywhere now. But after the first 
sowing, and for two weeks, new sowings of the 
Wonder and Champion should be made every! or 
5 days, to keep up a constant succession. After 
two weeks or so, follow with very frequeut sowings 
of the Champion, or if without brush, the Wonder, 
so as to have a daily supply far into summer. As 
fast as the peas are off, other crops, as cabbage, 
turnips, etc., may occupy the ground. Always 
save enough of the earliest and best pods to ripen 
for next year’s seed. 
Sow such medium- growing kinds as Daniel O’¬ 
Rourke in rows 21 apart; the Wonder, rows 13 to 15 
