1882.1 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
239 
can each have a small stove; the rear main story 
bed-room can be warmed, if needed, by carrying a 
stove-pipe through the partition to the rear chimney. 
4 lost.—“The materials and workmanship are 
to he first-class; the finishing plain throughout. 
Common labor is reckoned at $1 to $1.25 per day ; 
skilled labor, $1.50 to $2.00,”—Labor is now higher 
than these figures, in most parts of the country. 
Estimate of Materials. 
Sills, Girders , Posts. 
2 pieces, 6x6 in.xll ft., 84 ft. 
2 pieces, 6x8 in.xlf ft., 112 ft. 
1 piece, 6x8 iu.xl5 ft., 60 ft. 
1 piece, 6x8 in.xl6 ft., 64 ft. 
4 pieces, 6x8 in.xl8 it., 288 ft . 
608 ft. 
Studding, Rafters, Etc. 
54 pieces, 2x4 in.x 9 ft., 324 ft. 
4 pieces, 2x4 in.xlO ft., 27 ft. 
34 pieces, 2x4 in.xl.’ ft., 272 ft. 
48 pieces, 2x4 in.xll ft., 448 ft. 
25 pieces, 2x4 in.xl6 ft., 167 ft. 
6 pieces, 2x4 in.xl-i ft., 72 ft. 
7 pieces, 2x4 in.x20 1' L, 93 ft. 
1,403 ft. 
Joists. 
8 pieces, 2x8 in.x 8 ft., 85 ft. | 28 pieces, 2x8 in.xl3 ft., 485 ft. 
15 pieces, 2x8 in.xlU ft., 200 ft. 8 pieces, 2x8 in.xlS ft., 160 ft. 
I 930 ft. 
Total, 2,941 feet, @ $22 per 1,000 ft.$64.80 
250 feet of- 2-inch Plank, @ $25.00.$ 6.25 
800feet of 1-inch Boards,® $30.00. 24.00 
700 feet of 1-inch Boards, @ $22.00. 15.40 
300 feet of 1-inch Boards, @ $20.00. 6.00 
Shingling, Lath, and Cellar Beams, 103 pieces, 1x4 in. 
xl6 ft., 550 feet, @ $18 per M. 9.90 
Flooring, 1,250 feet, @ $27.50 per M. 34.38 
Board Partitions, 384 feet, @ $23.50 per M . 9.02 
Ceiling Boards (%ths-inchi. 1,330 feet, @ $20 per M.26.60 
. Shingles, 9,000, @ $2 85 per M. 25 65 
tVeather Boarding, 1,540 feet, @ $22.00.. 33.88 
3 Sashes for Cellar, @ 60 cents each. 1.80 
15 Window Sashes, @ $1.80 each...27.00 
2 Outside Doors, @ $2 each. . 4.00 
3 Doors, @ $1.50 each. .. 4.50 
7 Doors, @ $1 each.. 7.00 
4 Batten Doors, @ 85 cents each. 3.40 
Cellar Doors. 2.00 
73 Y ards Excavation, @ 18 cents..13.14 
738 Feet Stone Work, @ 6 cents.44.28 
1,100 Bricks in Chimneys, @ $11.50.. 12.65 
187 Yards Plastering, complete, @ 25 cents .46.75 
Hardware, etc— 2 Mortise Locks, $2.00 2 Mortise 
Locks, $1 60;—12 Rim Locks, $3.60;—300 pounds Nails, 
$15.00;—64 feet Spouting, $6.40;—5 pairs Hinges, 90 
cents ;—12 pairs Hangers, $1.50;—2 pairs Strap Hinges, 
. 30 cents ;—6 pairs Strap Hinges, 50 cents;—Wire Screen 
for Pantry. 95 cents;—2 Cupboard Door Springs, 20 
cents;—3 dozen Clothes Hooks, 90 cents. 33.85 
Painting, $60.00; Carpenter Work, $150.00.210.00 
Sundry Incidentals.. . 33.75 
Cost of Building complete.$700.00 
Notes on House Plan in May Number.— 
We are promised a Model of the Furnace soon, for 
making engravings and description. Mrs. Burr 
writes: “A large trap is placed where the waste 
water enters the drain-pipe, another under the 
sink, and one under the bath-tub, and under each 
wash-bowl, to prevent the return of odors or foul 
air to the house. As the family consists of only 
two grown persons and a boy of four, a bath-tub 
on the first floor was deemed sufficient. Had there 
been two or three more in the family, a bath-tub 
would have been put on the second floor. The pic¬ 
ture does not look as well as the house, but that, 
of course, was the fault of my poor drawing sent. 
There is a wall and door between the Kitchen and 
j Pantry not shown in fig. 2....All sills, plates, 
girths, and corner-posts, were hewed from timber 
cut on the farm, and the value reckoned. There 
are four large chestnut piers, or posts, resting on 
stones imbedded in the bottom of the cellar_” 
Special Notices to Inquirers and Contributors. 
—Quite a number send us partial plans and descrip¬ 
tions—sometimes only a general statement of their 
wants and desires—and ask us to publish, or send 
them, full plans, specifications, cost, etc., of such 
or such a house. It is impossible to do so. It 
requires two or three days, often more, to exam¬ 
ine, prepare well, and execute suitable drawings 
for engravers, for any one good house-plan article, 
and it costs quite a sum to furnish the engravings 
alone.—We return thanks to those who, from time 
to time, send us drawings and plans for publica¬ 
tion. These are kept and examined as we have 
time, and if valuable are preserved to be drawn 
upon in the future, as occasion may serve. 
Eee Notes for June. 
In all the Northern States, June is the great 
hone}' month. The bees are already bringing in 
this delicious product from the raspberry, the 
white clover and alsike clover, and before the 
month ends, the basswood bloom will bring the 
bees to the great honey harvest of the year. Every 
bee-keeper should ask and answer for himself : 
What Shall the Harvest Be? —Shall we work 
our apiaries for comb-honey, or plan to get all, or 
most of it, as extracted honey ? This question 
was recently asked in a meeting of one of the most 
wide-awake societies of the country, and all but 
one answered: work wholly for extracted honey. 
The unanimous opinion was, that nearly double 
the weight of honey would be thus obtained, 
which readily sells at 12s cents per lb., or more, 
while the nicest comb-honey is only worth 20 cents, 
the general price being 18 cents. And this is not 
merely local opiuion. Three-fourths of those at 
the National Convention last autumn, follow this 
method.—The extracted honey is intrinsically as 
good as the comb-honey, and is more nutritious. 
The wax of the comb is neither easily digested nor 
nutritious. If there is not a present market for 
extracted honey, one can be readily created. 
The Honey Extractor is coming into general 
use, and justly so. It is a German invention, is 
comparatively simple, and not very expensive, aud 
by means of this the honey is thrown from the 
combs by'centrifugal force, when they are returned 
to the hive to be filled again. If taken from the 
hive before they are capped over, it saves work and 
time to the bees. If not removed for extracting 
before they are capped, the caps are cut off with a 
sharp knife run over the comb. There are various 
machines now made. They should be of metal, 
run with gearing, be light and strong, aud so made 
that only the basket carrying the combs is revolved, 
leaving the can or reservoir- stationary. They 
should be large enough to leave space below the 
basket for at least 100 lbs. of honey. 
Hive for Extractor.— If we are to work sim¬ 
ply for extracted honey, the hive may be very sim¬ 
ple, and either one story, or two. I think better 
results are secured from a one-story hive, though a 
two-story one looks better. The late Mr. Quinby, 
who had no superior as a practical apiarist, once 
offered $50 for a non-swarming hive. By a faith¬ 
ful use of the Extractor, almost any hive becomes 
a non-swarmer—a point in favor of extracting. 
How and When to Extract Honey. —When 
necessary to uncap some of the cells, uncapping 
knives, made wdth a bevelled edge, are the best. 
In extracting during the honey season, it is never 
advisable to wait for the bees to cap the honey. If 
the honey is kept in a dry, warm room, and it 
should be kept in no other, there will be no dan¬ 
ger from souring, even if the honey is extracted 
when quite thin. We have frequently extracted 
during the honey season as often as every other 
day, and with no bad results. We would not dare 
do this, if the honey must be kept iii a cool room, 
especially a damp one. The best place to keep 
extracted honey is a room that is warmed up to 70 
or 80 degrees Fahrenheit, each day, when the sun 
shines hot. Put the honey in open barrels or 
cans ; cover with cloth that will keep out the 
dust, but not prevent evaporation. In extracting, 
care should be taken not to take away so much as 
to starve the bees the coming winter. The bees 
can be fed, but that may be neglected, and so 
honey enough should be reserved. Honey may be 
extracted from combs with brood, and not throw 
out the brood; this requires a very even motion. 
A sharp, sudden jerk will remove most of the bees 
from the comb ; the remainder may be removed by 
using a bunch of asparagus, a pine twig, or a quill 
from the wing of a goose or turkey. 
Comb-Honey.— If the market makes it more 
desirable to work for comb-honey, sections should 
be used. Those 4i inches square and holding one 
pound, are the most profitable as they find a ready 
sale. The sections may be placed in a crate above 
the brood-chamber, or may be suspended in the 
body of the hive in a wide frame. Sometimes the 
bees are slow to go into the sections above the 
hive. In this case it is quite desirable to have the 
sections so arranged that they may be readily trans¬ 
ferred from the body of the hive to the crate 
above. They are put into the body of the hive 
until the bees commence to work in them, and 
then are removed to the crate above where the 
bees will continue to work. Putting a small piece 
of uncapped drone-brood into the sections above 
will sometimes induce the bees to commence work 
there. As the brood hatches out, the bees will fill 
the cells with honey, and no harm is done. 
To Secure a Good Yield of comb-honey, the 
colonies must be strong, and to have them thus, 
and not be bothered with swarming, requires skill 
and care. A much more skilful bee-keeper is need¬ 
ed to obtain the best results with comb-honey, than 
to procure the best harvest of extracted honey. 
Worse and Worse Weeds.— Sometime ago 
we mentioned the fact that the flowers of the Ox-Eye 
Daisy were in such demand by the city florists, that 
several persons were engaged in forcing them, in 
order to get them into bloom in early spring, at 
which time they were sold at a price sufficiently 
high to pay for the labor expended. When the 
plants came into flower in the fields, they were 
offered at every street corner, and were not much 
in demand. Later, we have seen in the florists’ 
windows, clusters of the flowers of a still worse 
weed, the Toad-flax (Linaria vulgaris ), also called 
“ Butter and Eggs,” and in some localities “ Ram- 
sted Weed.” This is now justly regarded as one of 
the worst weeds of our farms, yet the writer can 
