THE AMATEUR’S FLOWER GARDEN, 
53 
all tlie leaves may be left entire, and especially if the cuttings 
are in a close propagating frame, or under bell-glasses. But 
if they are likely to be exposed to draughts, if they are placed 
in pots or pans in an ordinary greenhouse, and, therefore, 
subjected to evaporation, the leaves 
must be reduced in number, and all the 
larger ones must be cut half away. 
Another matter of importance in 
making cuttings is to determine whe¬ 
ther they are to be rooted from a 
joint or not. Most cultivators prefer 
to cut the shoot 
quite close under 
a joint, so as to 
obtain roots from 
that joint. But 
there is no occa¬ 
sion to cut to a 
joint; any plant 
ordinarily propagated for the garden, 
will root as quickly from the “ inter¬ 
node”—that is, the portion of stem 
intermediate between two joints—as 
from the joints themselves. This is 
of great importance when cuttings 
are scarce : as a shoot will often fur¬ 
nish half-a-dozen cuttings, if taking 
them at a joint is of no consequence ; 
and only one or two, perhaps, if taking 
them at a joint is imperative. 
The size of the cuttings is a matter 
of great importance. As a rule, the 
smaller they are the better. Still, if 
very soft, many may damp off unless 
very skilfully handled, so the amateur 
must secure them moderately firm, cutting of veronica. 
Three or four joints will generally 
suffice of most things, or say nice plump shoots of from 
one to two inches long. If young side-slioots are scarce, 
longer shoots may be cut up in lengths of three joints; 
and if it is a question of raising the largest possible number 
of plants from the fewest cuttings, then one joint and its 
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