AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
99 
Fruit Trees—Set out as early as the season will admit 
Garlic—Sow, m, 1. 
Grafting—Perform on fruit ttees, ff, m. 
Grapes—Plant vines and cuttings, f, m. Uncover, ff, 
any protected vines. 
Herbs—Set out hyssop, thyme, rue, sage, savory, 
&c., 1, m. 
Hops—Plant roots, f, m, 
Hot Beds—Closely water them, now that the plants are 
of some size, and the sun warm. Raise, or remove the 
gash each day. Some of the plants may be put out, 11, 
using the hand-glasses, described and illustrated on page 
117, for protection. New beds maybe made and sown. ff. 
Horse-Radisn—Divide and reset roots, ff, m. See article 
elsewhere. 
Kohl Rabi—Sow, m, 1, for early use. 
Leeks—Sow, f, m, 1. 
Lettuce—Sow as soon as the ground can ne worked, 
and follow at intervals of two weeks, till August. Plant 
from hot-beds, 11. 
Manure grounds thoroughly, if you wish full returns 
for your labor. Well rotted manure is desirable for gar¬ 
dens. 
Mushroom Beds—Make, f, m, 1. See page 262, of vol. 
XVI, for full directions. 
Mustard—Sow at any time after the ground is open, 
and at intervals for a succession. 
Nasturtiums—Sow, m, 1. 
Okra—Sow, 11. 
Onions—Sow, m, 1, and put out sets or bulbs at the same 
time See article on page 108. 
Parsley—Sow, f, m, 1. 
Parsneps—Sow, f, m, 1, on trenches or deeply-worked 
soil- 
Peas—Sow, f, m, 1, for succession, scalding previously 
to destroy the insects’ eggs. Stick when a few inches 
high. 
Radishes—Sow at any time after frost is out of the 
ground, and at intervals of a few weeks throughout the 
season. Scatter among beet seed, over the asparagus bed) 
and among vines. Pulled early, they will not interfere 
with other plants. 
Raspberries—Uncover buried canes, f, m, heading back 
and staking up at once. Make plantations at the same 
lime. See article on page 117. 
Rhubarb—Remove covering, ff, and fork around the 
roots, working in a good quantity of manure. Set roots 
*nd sow seed, f, m,. Early planting is very desirable. 
Salsafy—Sow, m, 1, as directed elsewhere. 
Sage—Divide roots, and sow seed, f, m. 1. 
Seeds—Test the goodness, by trying a few before sow¬ 
ing your whole garden. A day or two is sufficient to prove 
them, if kept near the stove, on moist cotton. Set out 
turnips, beets, carrots, parsneps, onions, cabbages, cauli¬ 
flowers, parsley, leeks, salsafy and kohl rabi for seed. 
Keep the different varieties of the same species at a dis¬ 
tance from each other, to prevent mixing. 
Spinach—Sow at any time after the frost is out, and at 
short intervals, till Midsummer, to have a continual sup¬ 
ply. 
Strawberries—If not already done, remove the covering 
from old beds, ff. Plant out new ones, m, 1. 
Tomatoes, both the common kind and the strawberry 
variety, or Winter cherries—Sow seed, f, m, 1. Plant 
from hot-beds, 11. 
Trench garden soils, or subsoil before planting. 
Turnips—Sow strap leaf and other quick-growing va¬ 
rieties, f, m, for early crop. Rutabagas, except for 
early use, should not be sown until May or June. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 
There is much to do here at this season, especially 
where the directions of last month have not been attended 
to. Read them anew and attend first to the operations 
there pointed out. Except on very warm borders, sowing 
of annuals and other seeds may be left till the last of the 
month, or even until May, but it is important that trans¬ 
planting of deciduous trees, shrubs and flower roots, be 
done early. They will give better satisfaction every way. 
Annuals may very properly be sown, m, 11, especially 
such hardy ones as asters, balsams, candytuft, coreopsis, 
clarkia, coxcomb, eschscholtzia. hibiscus, larkspur, la- 
vatera, marygold, mignonette, nasturtium, phlox, portulac • 
ca. scabious, &c. 
Biennials, and Perennials—Transplant, f, m, dividing 
the roots to increase the supply. Sow seed, m, II. Among 
these are carnations, pinks, daisies, chrysanthemums, 
lilies, sweet williams, yuccas, peonies, columbines, holly¬ 
hocks &c. 
Borders—Prepare, ff, m, for sowing and planting. Dig 
deep and manure well. 
Box and Grass Edgings—Set new and repair old, f, m,l 
Trim the old evenly. 
Bulbs—Hyacinths, tulips, crown imperials &c., are now 
growing rapidly, and will be blooming, m, 11. Put the 
Deds in order and erect screens over the choice ones to 
urolong the period of bloom 
Dahlias and Gladiolas—Place inboxes, m, 11, for start¬ 
ing. Expose during mild days, taking in during cool wea¬ 
ther. 
Dielytra—Plant out, m, 1. 
Drain all wet grounds if a good garden soil is expected. 
They may be worked much earlier, and are warmer 
for it. 
Evergreens 1 —They may be planted, m, 11, but better 
during the early part of May. If other work will prevent 
planting, do it the latter part of this month rather than not 
at all. V 
Frames and Pits—Transplant from them, m, 11, if the 
weather is sufficiently settled. 
Gravel—Renew the old and make new walks, f, m, 
Hedges—Set deciduous hedge plants, ff, m. and ever¬ 
green, m, 11, or later. 
Hot Beds—See that they are carefully attended to, as 
directed under Kitchen Garden. 
Labels for marking the flowers, and stakes and dahlia 
poles should all be procured at onee. 
Lawn—Put everything in a neat, attractive order, rak¬ 
ing and rolling the turf, sowing seed on bare spots, or re¬ 
sodding. Sow new grounds, f, m, the earlier the better. 
Prune, ff. any vines or shrubs neglected last month. 
Petunias and Verbenas—Sow seed, m, 1, and set or 
bed rooted plants, 11. 
Roses—Plant, ff, m. Tie up pillar and climbing varie¬ 
ties. 
Shade Trees—Plant deciduous kinds, ff, m. 
Shrubs—Plant, ff, m, the althea, flowering almond, aza¬ 
lea, chionanthus, flowering currant, deutzia, euonymous, 
holly, Japan quince, laburnum, lilac, philadelphus, rose 
acacia, snowberry, snowball, spiraea, tree poeony, weige- 
lia, &c. 
Vines and Climbers—Plant, ff, m, bignoma, clematis, 
honeysuckle, ivy, trumpet flower, Virginian creeper, wis¬ 
taria, &c. 
GREEN HOUSE. 
Fire heat may be mostly suspended this month. The 
house should be well ventilated, opening it on all mild 
clear days as soon as the sun is well up, and only closing 
at sun down. Many of the plants are intended for the 
open border in May, and should now be undergoing the 
hardening-off process. Plants which are now growing 
rapidly will throw up weak shoots without this airing. 
Bedding Plants—Have a good supply in process of cul¬ 
tivation. The stock of verbenas, petunias, geraniums, 
daisies, pansies, <fcc., may still be increased by dividing the 
roots, layering, and by cuttings. Gradually harden them 
for out-door culture. 
Bulbs—Many are still in bloom, while a portion have 
shed their flowers. Keep the former in an airy part of 
the house, well watered, and plant the latter in the open 
border to dry off. 
Cal las—Water freely now that they are in bud and flow¬ 
er. Cleanse the leaves often and turn toward the light. 
Camellias are mostly out of bloom. Syringe freely, and 
insert cuttings of the well ripened wood. 
Cuttings—A large proportion of the plants may still be 
increased in number by cuttings. Select well ripened wood, 
and having inserted them thickly in prepared soil plunge 
the pots in the bark bed for a bottom heat. A bell or other 
glass placed over them will facilitate their rooting. 
Grapes—Vines are in different stages of forwardness 
according to the heat of the house. Disbud, train up 
shoots and syringe freely, mixing a little sulpher in the 
water to prevent mildew. 
Head back and pinch in plants with ill shaped heads. 
Inarching—Oranges, lemons, limes &c., may now be 
inarched. (See full description and illustration of the 
process, page 184, Vol. XVI. 
Insects—Watch carefully for and destroy as previously 
recommended. 
Mildew—Dust plants and flues with flour of sulphur, 
where there is any appearance of mildew. 
Pot off annuals sown last month. 
Seeds—Sow annuals early, for planting in the Dorders. 
Vegetables may be forwarded by sowing in pots in the 
green house and afterward transplanting to the kitchen 
garden. 
Shifting—Continue to re-pot all those whose rapid 
growth indicate a want of more room. Give fresh earth 
to others. 
Water more freely as plants are growing more rapidly. 
HOT-HOUSE AND CONSERVATORY. 
The directions of last month are mainly applicable to 
this, save, that less heat will be necessary. During the 
cold, windy days, and frosty nights, however, the furnaces 
will need careful watching. A chill at this season would 
be very disastrous. 
The houses will need more air as the weather grows 
warmer, and the stock of plants increase in size and 
number. 
Cuttings—Make and treat as in Green-House. 
Flowers in Pots—Bring in from the Green-House for 
blooming. 
Fuchsias—Water more freely as they approach the 
blooming season. Increase the stock by cuttings. 
Grapes—Thin bunches of the early forcing ; rub off 
superfluous shoots, and confine branches to wires. Use 
sulphur to prevent mildew. 
Insects increase rapidly this month, if not kept in check. 
Fumes of tobacco, syringing and hand-picking are the 
destroying agents. 
Pines are now setting fruit—Maintain a natural tropica, 
atmosphere by evaporations, to produce dews at night. 
Seeds—Sow the different varieties of hot-house plants, 
to keep up the stock. 
Shiftings—A large number of plants will need more 
room at this season. Shift to larger pots, ff. 
Syringe freely towards evening, both to dislodge insects 
and promote a humid atmosphere. 
Water—An increased supply will be necessary, as the 
plants are now growing rapidly. See that the drainage is 
perfect 
THE APIARY IN APRIL 
BY M. QUINBY. 
During this month and next, more can be effected to¬ 
wards destroying the moth-worm than in all the rest of 
the season. All outsiders are now frozen to death ; only 
a few eggs and larva that have been kept alive by the 
warmth of the bees inside the hive, are left, and these 
now commence operations. The bees drag them out of 
the combs, and drop them on the floor, where they may 
be found during the cool mornings, and destroyed. Search 
thoroughly, as everv one that escapes may generate hun¬ 
dreds, or perhaps thousands, before the end of the season. 
....If any stocks are weak, it is important to ascertain 
which they are, that they may be particularly guarded 
against robbers. It is much better to guard against the be¬ 
ginning of evil than to cure it afterwards. Close the en¬ 
trance, allowing only one bee to pass at once. Keep a 
look out on every real warm day for the robbers to com¬ 
mence. Do not mistake a few fighting outside for evi¬ 
dence of pillaging ; it is often a good sign, and indicates 
courage for defence. Visit them alter sundown on such 
days. Sometimes the bees around a weak hive show un¬ 
usual activity at the time ; these are robbers, and if let 
alone, will appropriate every particle of honey, while the 
owners seem to look on with the utmost indifference, and 
make no effort to save themselves from famine. To break 
up this habit, it is hardiy worth while to resort to many of 
the common methods recommended, particularly the one 
of moving the hive to different places, unless the distance 
beat least a mile. The least trouble is, to confine the 
bees in some way that will admit sufficient air into the 
hive, and carry it to some dark room, until two or three 
warm days have passed, when it may be returned to its 
stand, and watched as before....Graduate the entrance 
of all the hives to accommodate the bees that are to pass. 
— Take advantage of the first stormy day. to get hives 
and boxes in readiness ; scald, and scrape clean the in¬ 
side of old hives, and they will answer to use again. If 
any are to be painted, it should be at once attended to, 
that they may be thoroughly dry, and lose the rank smell 
of the paint.... Put up a amall box near the hive for the 
wren to nest in. This bird is a great help in catching the 
worms — Erect a fence to break the force of the prevail¬ 
ing winds.Let the sun strike the hive in all moderate 
weather. 
Hints on Farm work for April. 
(The following, and the hints on the preceding page 
were prepared by two different Editors residing 400 miles 
apart. They run somewhat in the same channel.) 
Let the fences all be repaired as soon as pos¬ 
sible, if any of that work is left over from last 
month- 
Get out the manures and composts for the 
Spring and Summer crops. In this, better fertilize 
half the ground well than go over the whole with 
only a scant supply. 
If the meadows have not been already top dres¬ 
sed with manure for the season, they had better 
be postponed till after haying, as the raw portions 
of the dung will remain, and be in the way of the 
scythe, and mowing machine. Besides this, the 
soil will be badly cut up by the teams, and wagon, 
or cart wheels, doing it more hurt than the dung 
will do it good. Let the loose stones be also 
picked off the mowing lots, and carried off alto¬ 
gether. Putting them in heaps, large, or small, 
only gives a harbor for mice, moles, and othei 
vermin intent on mischief. 
Clean up the door and wood yards of their 
