AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
117 
severely in the dormant season, and pinch back, 
during the Summer, the young shoots. 
6th. Encourage a horizontal growth of branches 
except with the leader ; this is assisted by having 
.he last bud on the shoot an outside bud, which 
’.vill grow from the center of the tree. 
vth. Let the highest bud on the leader be on 
opposite sides each successive year to prevent it 
from growing to one side. 
Taking Up and Packing Trees and Plants. 
Millions of trees are annually transported from 
one place to another, of which a large number are 
injured more or less for want of proper taking up 
and packing. To pack well is an art requiring 
no little skill or experience, and in the long run, 
other things being equal, those nurserymen will 
succeed far the best who have in their employ the 
best packer. Tbe great end in taking up and 
packing all trees and plants should be to retain as 
many of the fine rootlets as possible, and to pack 
them in such a way that they will not be mutilated 
or exposed to air or heat. As a general rule, no 
roots should be exposed an hour to the sun or 
wind, either between the time of lifting and 
packing, or unpacking and putting into the ground. 
We do not write to instruct experienced nursery¬ 
men, who are supposed to understand their busi¬ 
ness —whether they practice what they know or 
not—but we will give a few hints for the benefit 
of those who may have occasion to send from 
their own private grounds or forests a few ever¬ 
greens, or other trees or plants, to a distant rela¬ 
tive or friend. 
The accompanying engraving gives a con¬ 
venient and neat form of a bundle after it is made 
up. This may contain a single large tree or a 
number of smaller trees or shrubs. To make up 
such a bundle, before lifting the trees from the 
ground, provide: 
some straight 
straw; a good 
quantity of moss; 
gunny bags, that 
is coarse salt or 
coffee bags; some 
very large strings 
or twine, say one- 
eighth to one- 
fourth of an inch 
in diameter—or 
what is better, 
tarred rope-yarn ; 
also, strong twine 
and a needle to 
carry it; a wide 
leather strap with 
buckle upon one 
end ; and labels 1 
to l£ inches wide 
and 6 to 8 inches 
long,made smooth 
upon one side— 
they are better if 
covered with a 
thin coat of white 
paint, so as to hold 
and show well the 
pencil marks. 
To make the 
bundle, begin 
placing the trees or shrubs together in a round 
package, taking care to place both roots and limbs 
smoothly, so that there will be as little crossing 
or chaffing as possible. Put plenty of damp moss 
between the roots. Draw the mass closely to¬ 
gether by buckling the leather strap near the 
roots, and then tie firmly with a straw band. Put 
on two or three other straw bands to complete 
the form of the bundle. Next, cover the whole 
with straw, and bind on temporary with straw 
bands. Let the heads of the layer next the root 
lop over the buts of the next layer above, and 
so on to the top, if more than two lengths of 
straw are required. Now, begin at the roots 
and bind the straw firmly on with a strong cord, 
crossing it as seen in the engraving. The whole 
should be done so neatly that no loose straw 
ends will be left hanging from any point. 
For the roots, lay down tbe canvass upon the 
ground, cover it with straw, upon this put some 
moss, set on the bundle and bring up the bag 
and sew it with the needle and twine firmly 
over the but end of the package, as shown in 
the cut. If to be carried far, especial care 
should be taken to surround the entire roots 
with plenty of moss, well packed in. 
Many recommend dipping the roots of trees 
and plants in a “puddle” made by mixing any 
good tenaceous soil with water to a thin paste. 
This may be advisable where trees are to be 
long on a journey. 
--- » « ——» «- 
The Garden Raspberry. 
There are many varieties of this delicious fruit, 
each of which have their advocates. They vary 
in flavor, hardihood and prolific bearing; yet most 
of them are good, but some varieties much better 
than others. There is, however, one quality in the 
raspberry which is first in the inquiry of every 
one who grows them for market, viz.: will they 
bear transportation without mashing 1 and to this 
we promptly answer, No. We never yet saw a 
raspberry that will go to market as blackberries, 
strawberries, currants and other small, pulpy fruits 
will, unless packed in single layers, or in such 
very small quantities in one dish, or box, as to 
make the carriage very troublesome and expen¬ 
sive. The difficulty lies solely in the shape of the 
berry itself. It is a thimble-shaped fruit—a hol¬ 
low cone, with soft, pulpy sides. Of course, when 
ripe—and it is good for nothing if not ripe—the 
slightest pressure will pack it into a solid mass 
of jam, thejuice running out, and the fruit spoiled 
for the table. There is no help for this, only in 
the light mode of packing in single layers, or cut¬ 
ting off the fruit with scissors, leaving the stem 
on, and the core in the fruit, requiring them to be 
cored by the consumer. 
We say that a raspberry is good for nothing 
unless ripe—we mean dead ripe, so that it will al¬ 
most fall from the stem at the touch. Then they 
are delicious, healthy and nourishing—no berry 
sweeter. Thus, then, every one should grow their 
own raspberries, who have garden room to do so. 
The common wild black-cap is the hardest rasp¬ 
berry we know of for marketing ; but it is full of 
hard seeds, and every body who eats them has to 
pick their teeth for half an hour afterwards. Yet 
the people who depend on market raspberries buy 
them, because they are hard, and look well. They 
are a good berry too, but not to be compared with 
some of the cultivated kinds for fiesh use. They 
dry well, because they have so many seeds, they 
suffer the pulps to shrink less than the better 
kinds. 
We know a person who manufactures largely 
of wines, jams, preserves, cordials, and suchlike, 
from the small fruits of all kinds. They buy tons 
of raspberries, in their season, every year. On 
inquiry, they informed us that they can afford to 
pay thirty to fifty per cent more, by the pound, for 
the garden raspberries than the wild ones, so su¬ 
perior are they in quality for their purposes. 
Such facts, we presume, settle the question of 
flavor, and consistency in pulp of the fruit. We 
can not, then, do our readers a better service than 
to commend ail who have the garden room, 
and opportunity, to cultivate the raspberry of 
some approved kind. We prefer those which are 
hardy, without covering, if of good flavor, of which 
we believe there are some few ; but if such ca» 
not be obtained, take the others. 
-■*-<-—u*>»--- 
Above we present a sketch of a very conveni¬ 
ent and useful apparatus for starting and protect¬ 
ing early vegetables in the garden. They are ot 
various forms and sizes. The one here shown 
is an octagon with frame-work of lead, and glass 
sides and roof. Those of this kind are on sale at 
the Agricultural and seed stores. They run in 
numbers from 1 to 12 andupw r ard. No. 1 is about 
5 inches in diameter and costs some 62 cents, 
while No. 12 is, say 15 inches in diameter, and 
costs about $2. With lead frames these are quite 
strong. Bell glasses answer a similar end. A 
simple square frame with glass sides and top 
will also do comparatively well, though not as 
good as the above form. 
These Hand Glasses, though costly at first, last 
for many years, and serve for many useful pur 
poses. They are good covering for diminutive hot 
beds when placed over bottom heat produced by 
fermenting manures ; and they also serve to pro 
tect plants springing up early, but in danger of be 
ing touched by frost. Supplied with these glasses 
the gardener can take plants from the regular hot¬ 
bed as fast as they begin to crowd and set them 
into the open ground, and harden them with the 
hand glasses, by covering at night and removing 
while the sun is up. When this is done before 
hard freezing is over, it will be hardly necessary 
to keep the ground underneath warm by ferment¬ 
ing manure. It is important to remove or raise 
them during the warm days, as the plants will be 
suffocated or scalded. 
Seeds of cabbages, cucumbers, melons, toma¬ 
toes, eggplants, &e., may be early sown under 
these glasses, either thinly for remaining, or 
thickly for after transplanting. 
-» ———■©*— - - « - . 
Currant Bushes. 
Now is the time to cut currant slips for plant¬ 
ing. Many cultivators recommend cutting off all 
buds below the part inserted in the ground, which 
prevents sprouts coming up from below, and thus 
making a minature tree of it, instead of a bush — 
which is its natural habit. The currant we have 
found to be liable to the depredations of a small 
grub, or worm, which breeds from the deposit 
of an egg near the root, where it works up¬ 
ward into the pith, or heart ot the wood, fora foot 
or two, and then emerges out—probably then 
taking the moth, or winged formation, and leav- 
