AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST 
195 
nr scare the birds if they do eat a few cherries.—They are 
entitled to them for the good they do in destroying insects. 
Lettuce—Plant for a constant supply, f, m, 1. Sow the 
Silesian lettuce for late use. 
Melons—Plant, ff, for mangoes. Hoe those planted 
early. 
Mushrooms—Begin to collect spawn materials, m, 11, 
for Autumn beds. 
Onions—Keep well hoed. Sow, 11, for “pips'* to put 
out next season. 
Peas—Sow, ff, m, 1. The weevil has now changed to a 
fly or bug and left old peas. There is little danger of in¬ 
jury from bugs to those sown at this season. 
Potatoes—Early crops will soon be ready to harvest. 
See that the land is occupied for the rest of the season. 
Unless gathered for early use or marketing, better leave 
potatoes in the ground. 
Preserving Fruits and Vegetables—Now, while the ta- 
Ole is abundantly provided with these, lay in a supply for 
next Winter, by drying, or better, putting away in air tight 
cans or jars. Corn, beans, peas, tomatoes, and in fine all 
the vegetables and fruits, when properly put up come out 
nice and fresh in Winter and Spring. See directions 
elsewhere. 
Radishes—Scatter a few seed among other crops, ff, m, 
for late use. 
Raspberries are now in the hightof bearing and require 
daily picking and marketing. 
Rhubarb—Linnaeus is still in good eating condition 
when pulled from near the centre of the plant. Dry or 
put in cans or jars a quantity for Winter use.' 
Seeds—Gather Turnip, Cabbage and other seed now 
ripening. Dry with care and label for another year. 
Spinach—Sow, ff, m, for a late supply. 
Squashes—Hoe often and watch for bugs. 
Strawberries have nearly perfected their crop and are 
pushing out runners, which should be clipped where hill 
culture is desired. 
• Thinning both fruit and vegetables may still be necessa¬ 
ry. Give both plenty of room. 
Tomatoes -J’ 1 ant a few, ff, for late use. Keephoedand 
staked or b.vr.ed. 
Transplant vegetables of all kinds with care at this sea¬ 
son. The hot dry weather renders them less liable to 
live. Water the seed bed thoroughly before taking up 
plants, and set out in the evening or during dull weather, 
shading from the sun for a day or two. 
Turnips—Sow remainder of the rutabagas, and the 
White French variety, ff, m, on newly worked, rich soil. 
Scatter flat kinds among other crops and where early veg¬ 
etables are being removed, m, 1. See chapter elsewhere. 
Weeds—Compost or give them to the hogs if they have 
oeen permitted to grow at all. 
Winter Cherries—Though rather late, they may still be 
planted out for a late supply. 
Flower Garden and Lawn. 
These grounds should be very attractive at this season. 
The perennial plants are many of them still in bloom, 
while the early annuals are daily coming into flower. 
The beauty and fragrance of the rose still remains, and 
many of the house plants now adorning the borders are 
gay with bloom. With those who have little to do in the 
nay fields, there is more leisure now, after the hurried 
season of preparation and planting, which gives 
an opportunity to look over the whole, both to enjoy the 
oeauty, and perfect any arrangements not fully completed. 
There is still sufficient time to sow a few 
Annuals of the quick growing sorts on ground heretofore 
occupied by bulbs, or where the flower stalks of early 
dooming plants have been cut away. 
Box Edgings not already clipped should be sheared, ff. 
Bulbs—Lift, ff, m, those which are to be divided and 
reset, filling their places with annuals. 
Cactuses—Divide and reset, f, m, pruning into shape. 
Camellias—Keep partially shaded and well syringed. 
Carnations, Pinks, Piccotees and Pansies—Continue 
to layer and put in cuttings, ff, m. Open the flower pods 
oy slitting upward, those inclined to burst at the side. 
Water in dry weather, and keep flower stalks neatly tied 
up. 
Dahlias—It is not too late to set out plants started last 
month in pots or otherwise. Prune side branches and 
firmly slake tall plants. 
Flower Stalks are unsightly after completing their 
bloom. Cut them away and plant annuals to occupy the 
space. 
Gladioluses—Plant, ff, any not already out, and stake 
early ones. 
Gravel Walks should be kept scrupulously clean from 
grass or weeds, and be often raked to prevent packing. 
Renew any thin spots. 
Hedges—Finish the first pruning or clipping, ff. Plash, 
or weave in to fill up weak places- 
Ho° grounds often. Even :f there are nr* weeds the 
■ou should be frequently stirred. 
Insects—Look after the slug on the rose bushes and de¬ 
stroy with whale oil soap and the syringe. A sprinkling 
upon other shrubs occasionally, will divest them of in¬ 
sects of various kinds. 
Lawns and Grass Edgings look best when covered with 
a growth of only a few inches in hight. Mow or shear 
often, trimming smoothly. 
Neatness and order should be prominent features of 
the flower borders. Allow no weeds to grow ; cut away 
decaying stalks, leaves and branches ; tie tall growing 
plants neatly and securely, put the walks in good order 
and have everything about the grounds as attractive as 
possible. Remember these gardens are the appropriate 
“ Pleasure Grounds” of the farm-house or cottage. 
Pelargoniums—Head back plants now out of bloom, 
making cuttings at the same time. 
Potted Plants—Keep them watered, and the soil well 
stirred and free from moss. Turn the pots occasionally 
to disengage any roots which have penetrated into the soil 
through the hole at the bottom. 
Prune trees and shrubs as recommended under “ Or¬ 
chard Calendar,” and elsewhere. Many plants now 
growing vigorously may be improved in shape by cutting 
back and pinching in. 
Rhododendrons now make a fine show of bloom. Wa¬ 
ter freely, and hoe often, or mulch about them. 
Roses are still in full flower and fragrance. This is the 
proper season to bud and layer in order to change the va¬ 
riety and increase the stock. New growth layered now, 
will root sufficiently to be removed another Spring. Keep 
pillar and climbing varieties tied to stakes, or trellis. Use 
the oil soap solution freely to destroy slugs and leaf hop¬ 
pers. Even the rose bug evidently dislikes the odor. 
Seeds—Collect any now ripening. Examine plants 
carefully as they come into bloom to verify the coirect- 
ness of their names. 
Stake or otherwise confine all tall growing plants liable 
to be broken down by high winds. 
Transplant the remainder of the biennials and peren¬ 
nials sown last month. 
Verbenas—Increase stock of Fall blooming plants by 
layering. 
Water any plants needing it during dry weather. 
Weeds—Keep down by'frequent hoeings. 
Green and Hot Mouses. 
These are comparatively empty now save in extensive 
propagating houses, or where there are large collections 
of tropical plants which are more conveniently managed 
under cover. Of course the houses are now open night 
and day, excepting during cold or heavy rains. An abund¬ 
ant supply of freely circulating air is indispensable, and 
sprinklings or syringings should be frequently given in 
addition to copious waterings. 
Budding of many of the woody plants requires attend¬ 
ing to, ff, m. 
Callas—Repot towards the latter part of the month, 
watering less freely. 
Camellias—Bud, ff, m, repotting at the same time those 
requiring it. 
Cinerarias—Divide the roots of old plants to increase 
the stock. 
Cuttings—Make and insert, f, m. 
Earth for Potting—Provide a good supply and have it 
well mixed against a time of need. 
Fuchsias—Repot, f, m, where large plants are wanted. 
German Stocks—Plant for Winter bloom, f, m. 
Grapes—Throw open the houses, watering and syring¬ 
ing often, excepting late vines which have not matured 
their crop. Destroy insects, pinch in the shoots, and dust 
with sulphur where mildew makes its appearance. 
Insects of all kinds need especial looking after now 
The whale-oil soap solution will prove sufficient in most 
cases, although it may sometimes be necessary to resort 
to tobacco fumes. 
Layer and inarch many of the woody plants to increase 
the stock, ff, m. 
Oranges and lemons should now be budded, unless pre¬ 
viously done. 
Pines are now ripening, and require a moderate amount 
of water, with an abundance of air. Plant well-ripened 
and partially dried crowns for a new supply. Side suckers 
may be set out for the same purpose. 
Pottings—Continue upon plants requiring more room. 
Many of the seedlings now need potting. Change the 
surface soil in large pots and boxes, adding a rich com¬ 
post. 
Prune Plants, ff, m, to bring them to a good form. In 
some of the plants the old wood requires cutting away to 
renew the growth. 
Seeds—Gather any ripening, and save with care, or 
plant at once. 
Verbenas, petunias, geraniums, Ac.—Get up a Winter 
stock, by cuttings and layers, f, m. 
Water—Give copious supplies during the warm, dry 
weather of this month, sometimes both morning and 
evening Wash freelv with a syringe 
Apiary for July. 
BY M. QUINBY. 
After all your care, you will probably have some queen 
less stocks, and likewise some swarms which possess a 
queen, but are too small to amount to anything. By put¬ 
ting one of these in the old stock, they will be well dis¬ 
posed of, that is, if healthy, and if not healthy, put the 
bees into the new swarm. Any stock not sending out a 
swarm by the middle of this month should now be exam¬ 
ined for disease.—Ifdiseased, drive them out immediate¬ 
ly to begin anew. Such as have sent out swarms, and are 
diseased should be driven out three weeks after the first 
swarm. This period (three weeks after swarming) is also 
the proper time to prune out old combs, when necessary 
I would not, however, advise this operation oftener than 
once in eight or ten years-its being dark colored is no 
proof of its being unhealthy. 
In many sections, bees will have secured their Winter 
stores by the last of this month. Boxes containing surplus 
honey enough to make it worth while, should be removed 
for where no buckwheat is raised, probably no more hon 
ey will be added—and where there is buckwheat the 
honey added will be much darker, and cause the whole to 
look badly. If from any cause, the bees are reduced so 
as not to cover the combs, the worms will be quite sure to 
destroy them, and if the colony cannot be strengthened 
by some means, the contents of the hive (honey and wax), 
should be secured in advance of the worms, even if the 
bees are wasted. This course is better than to breed 
swarms of moths to molest other hives. 
---« ■ — i a.- 
Buckwheat- 
Any time up to the middle of July, will do to 
sow this valuable grain, and almost any descrip¬ 
tion of soil, dry, and not absolutely barren, will 
yield a tolerable crop, provided it be moist enough 
to sprout the seed and get it above the ground 
A shower or two, and the dews will bring it on 
afterwards. We have even raised a good crop of 
buckwheat when sowed in a dry time in July, and 
it did not come up until the middle of August. 
The ground need not be plowed until nearly 
ready to sow, as the fresher the earth, the more 
readily will the seed germinate. It should, how¬ 
ever, be light and fine. Half a bushel to three 
pecks of seed to the acre is sufficient, as the 
stalk branches out like a tree, and the grain is 
borne on every tendril. Cool September nights 
best fill and mature the grain. Early sown, and 
blooming in the hottest weather, the seed is apt 
to blast in forming, and hence a light crop ; but if 
fully set in early September, before a frost, it ra 
pidly fills, and gives a bountiful yield. 
When ready to cut, which may be done while 
some of the later kernels are yet green, it should, 
according to its bulk on the ground, be care¬ 
fully cut with a cradle or scythe, and lie a day 
or two to dry, and then be carefully forked to¬ 
gether into little stooks to cure, and not taken in 
until the stalks are fully dry. It can then be 
thrashed in a machine more effectually than in 
any other mode, although it is easily beat out 
with the flail. When cleaned, up spread it thin on 
a floor, that it may thoroughly dry, since being 
late in the season, it is more liable to damp than 
the earlier cut grams. 
Well stored, and kept dry, the straw is a toler¬ 
able fodder for young stock of any kind, and 
sheep will eat it greedily for a change. We have 
fed tons of it advantageously to our Wintei 
stock, while for cattle bedding nothing is better. 
The virtues of buckwheat as a table food we 
need not enumerate. Buckwheat cakes are a lux¬ 
ury wherever known; and for poultry, the unground 
grain is excellent. As pig, cattle, or horse feed 
it is better ground than fed whole, and when 
ground is substantial and nutritious. Some 
farmers have a prejudice against growing buck¬ 
wheat, as it “ fouls ” the land for the succeeding 
crop. Others think it injures the land in its fer¬ 
tility. From long experience, we think otherwise 
It kills wire-worms, leaves the soil light and free, 
