AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
227 
Espalier or Wall trees—Regulate branches, and prune 
if necessary. 
Grape Vines—Read chapter on page 212 of the July 
number, and keep vines well tied up. Remove unneces¬ 
sary side shoots and pinch back bearing branches. 
Herbs—Complete gathering, cutting while in full flow, 
er. Dry and pack in tight boxes or bottles after sifting. 
Hops—Pick during dry weather as they ripen, spread¬ 
ing until perfectly dry when they may be put in bags and 
hung away for use. 
Insects—Continue to destroy those injurious to vegeta¬ 
tion as per directions elsewhere given. 
Lettuce—Sow and plant out, f, m, 1, for Autumn use. 
Mushrooms—Collect spawn, if, and make beds, m, 1. 
Onions—Sow, 11, for sets to plant out next Spring. Pull 
and dry those sown early. 
Peas-Sow, ff, for late. Clear grounds of the haulm or 
6traw of early crops and resow with peas or turnips. 
Potatoes—Dig for early use and for market, using the 
ground for a second crop of some sort. 
Preserving or Canning Fruit and Vegetables—Put up a 
good supply for next Winter, now while they are abun¬ 
dant and can easily be spared. 
Radishes—Sow, f, m, for late use. Sow Black and 
White Spanish or Winter radishes, f, m. 
Raspberries—Cut out bearing canes which have ripened 
their crop. Collect and house the stakes. Give the new 
canes good tillage, as upon these depends the next crop. 
Seeds—Collect as many as possible and preserve them 
in dry places, labelling with care. 
Spinach—Sow, f, m, 1, for Autumn use. and, 11, for a 
Spring crop. Scatter a little lettuce seed among it. 
Strawberries—Make beds and plant at any time during 
the month, mulching and watering freely. 
Tomatoes—Stake or bush, ff. 
Turnips—Sow Rutabagas, ff, except at the North 
where flat varieties will succeed best at this season. 
Read chapters in last number, page 197. 
Water—Give slops,wash water, &c., to currant bushes, 
strawberry beds, and newly planted vegetables. 
Weeds—Raise vegetables instead of a crop of weeds to 
impoverish the soil, and leave seed for future toil or labor 
to exterminate. 
Winter Cress—Sow, m, 1, for Winter and Spring crop. 
Flower Garden and ILawn. 
Many of the directions given last month will apply for 
the present. Annuals now present a fine show' of bloom, 
and laic perennials succeed the early flowering varieties. 
The principal labors in this department should now be 
directed to keeping the grounds clean and attractive, and 
the soil loose about the plants. Many of the potted plants 
brought from the houses in June, will require a shift into 
larger pots. 
Bulbous Plants—Those intended to be removed this 
season should be lifted, ff, if not done last month. Some 
of the earlier blooming varieties, such as Snow Drop, 
Crocus, Iris, &c., may be planted, 11, although next month 
will be in season. Now is a proper time to sow seeds, for 
new varieties. 
Carnations and Picotees—Continue to layer, ff, m. Sep¬ 
arate and plant out former layerings which have rooted, 
watering freely, and shade from the hot sun. 
Chrysanthemums—Layer, f, m, those intended to propa¬ 
gate. Some of the early layers or cuttings are now ready 
for potting. 
Ciarkia and Coreopsis—Sow in pots or on warm borders, 
ll, for Fall and Winter bloom in the houses. 
Dahlias are now the “ Pride of the Garden,” if a good¬ 
ly number of various colors were interspersed at planting 
time. Stake to prevent injury by winds or storms, and 
prune off superfluous branches. Frequent waterings, and 
a mulch about the roots improve the appearance of the 
bloom. 
Flower Stalks—Cut away perennials and biennials as 
fast as they complete their bloom, and remove annuals 
entirely, giving the space to later varieties. Fuchsias do 
best at this season, in a somewhat shaded situation. 
Gravel Walks—Hoe or weed often, raking smoothly and 
rolling. 
H^lges—Clip, m, 1, unless it was done during the lat¬ 
ter part of last month. 
Hoe often all cultivated grounds, walks, Ac., removing 
the weeds with the rake 
Hollyhocks—Propagate by suckers, or cuttings of the 
same. Keep tied to strong stakes. 
Hydrangeas—Putin cuttings or layer, ff. 
Insects—Do not allow them to increase even if they are 
not as troublesome as earlier in the season.. Continue the 
Whale Oil Soap mixture for slugs on rose bushes. A dust¬ 
ing of lime or wood ashes will accomplish the same pur¬ 
pose, though less effectually 
Lawn and Grass Edgings—Mow evenly every two 
weeks and rake off. Sow Seed, m, 1, on bare spots and 
new grounds 
Mignonette sown, ff, will form fine plants for Autumn 
and Winter blooming in doors 
Pansies—Plant seed, ff, for Spring bloom. Continue to 
layer and remove those which are well rooted. 
Pelargoniums—Propagate by cuttings, ff, m. Head 
back straggling plants. 
Perennials—Fibrous rooted, such as Sweet William, 
Scarlet Lychnis, Ragged Robin, Ac., may be parted and 
transplanted, m, 1. 
Poeonies—Tree varieties may now be grafted. 
Potted Plants—Loosen the earth on the surface of pots, 
and remove any decayed leaves, watering freely during 
the dry weather. 
Prune Shrubs and Trees upon the Lawn, or borders, if 
necessary, always using the knife sparingly upon shade 
trees, although where it is to be done, this is a suitable 
month for the operation. 
Roses—Continue to bud and layer, ff. Use the oil soap 
recommended last month, as long as the slug is to be seen. 
Ten Week Stocks—Sow, m, 1, for early Spring blooming. 
Transplant any late annuals still needing it, watering 
thoroughly both before and after setting. Shade for a few 
days if dry hot weather succeeds, 
Verbenas and Petunias—Layer, ff, m, for Winter and 
Spring blooming in houses. 
Water—Give to potted plants especially, and those new¬ 
ly planted out. If very dry an application both morning 
and evening will be beneficial to those which absorb rap¬ 
idly. It is better to mulch the ground before watering. 
Weedsshould only be found in the Flower Garden in 
the shape of native wild, flowers , many of which are worthy 
of a place here. Our choicest flowers are mostly found 
in a wild state where they originated. 
Greeia and Hot Houses. 
A large number of plants are still in the Flower Borders, 
or in pots in the open air and are treated under “ Flower 
Garden.” Those remaining will need abundance of air 
each day when the weather is favorable. The houses 
will require putting in order and otherarrangements com¬ 
pleted for taking in the plants next month. A large quan¬ 
tity of prepared mold should also be in readiness for 
changing and potting off plants. 
Azalias—Give plenty of air and water, syringing fre¬ 
quently. Shade from hot sun, and guard against thrips 
Budding—Complete, f, m. 
Bulbs—Pot a few, m, 1, for Winter forcing. 
Callas—Repot, f, m, watering moderately. 
Camellias—Finish repotting, bud and inarch, f, m. 
Syringe and water freely. Grafting may also be done, m, L 
Chrysanthemums—Shift into blooming pots, giving li¬ 
quid manures. 
Cuttings of a large number of plants should now be 
made and put in to get up a good stock for Winter. 
Earth in Pots—Loosen or stir, renewing where neces¬ 
sary. Top dress, or give liquid manure to plants which 
need a more rapid growth. 
Fumes of Tobacco—Give houses containing green fly, 
aphis, thrips, Ac. 
Gloxinias—Those done blooming may now “ dry off.” 
Grapes are already cut in the earliest houses and the 
ventilators should all be opened to allow the vines to ripen 
off. In later rooms they are coloring or still increasing 
in size according to the forcing they have had. Guard 
against the appearance of mildew. 
Houses—Commence early to put them in order, before 
plants are brought in. Repair shelves and beds, glaze 
windows, cleanse the whole house thoroughly, have ropes, 
weights and pullies in working condition, look to the 
heating apparatus, and lastly paint those houses requiring 
it, being careful to empty them from all tender succulent 
plants at the time, else the poisonous gas from new paint 
will cause defoliation. 
Insects—Allow none to increase as the brooding season 
draws to a close. Fumigate, syringe with pure water and 
the Whale Oil Soap mixture. 
Labels—Prepare for all potted plants, writing both 
generic and specific names upon a painted surface. 
Layering and In-arching—Continue, f, m, as directed 
upon another page. Some of those plants layered or in¬ 
arched in the early partofthe season are now ready to be 
separated, and potted. 
Oranges, Lemons, Citrons, Shaddocks, &c.—Complete 
budding, ff, m. Top dress those pots or tubs which re¬ 
quire it. 
Pelargoniums—Repot and make cuttings of, ff. 
Potting—This is the appropriate season for shifting gen¬ 
erally, and potting off seedlings. Complete early, that 
they may become established before Winter. 
Seeds—Watch the ripening of and collect, ff, m. Sow 
calceolarias, cinerarias, mignonette, sweet alyssurn, Chi¬ 
nese primroses, pansies, pelargoniums, ciarkia, Ac.,m, 1, 
to get up a stock for Winter bloom. 
Stake weak shoots, and turn often. 
Tender Plants, and those for early Wihser bloom.—Take 
in, 11. 
Verbenas, Petunias, Geraniums, &c.—Layer and make 
cuttings, ff, m, for Winter flowering. Pot off those made 
last month 
Water—Give abundantly inside, grid to pots in the boi 
der. Syringe the foliage and walls of the house both 
morning and evening, sprinkling the floors at the same 
time. 
Apiary far Aisgtast. 
BY M. QUINBY. 
There will be more wax-moths, besides many other va 
rieties of moths, prowling around the bees this month, than 
at any other season. Now these poor weak creatures, 
like some others who bear the image of a more noble be¬ 
ing, have a fatal weakness—an appetite, for a few mo¬ 
ments gratification of which everything is sacrificed, even 
life. They are fond of strong drink. Mix well sugar or 
molasses and a little vinegar and water, making the 
“contrast” agreeable—the sweet and the sour. Put this 
in shallow dishes, saucers, or tin baking dishes, and set 
them among the bees at evening. Next morning the 
moths may be found by scores in the liquid, having got 
beastly drunk, and pitched in—some of them will be full, 
even to bursting. Strain them out, and set the liquor away 
for another night-they like it better after fermenting a 
little. The moths make a good meal for the chickens, 
which after a few treats of the kind are quite sure to be 
on hand. 
Late or small swarms that have not yet filled the hive 
with combs, will suffer more from moths than others. 
For these take some pieces of any old black comb, and 
lay it on the floor under the bees. Take it out twice a 
w'eek and destroy all worms that have gathered about it. 
If nothing of this kind is at hand, the next best thing is 
to keep all dust and chips swept out clean, so that no 
worms can hatch at the bottom and go up to the combs. 
Look into the corners of the hive, and remove all co¬ 
coons lodged thgre Be cautious in turning back a hive 
part full of new combs : they will bend side ways, unless 
the hive is turned so that the edges rest on the side. 
Any stocks runningdown from diseased broods, that were 
neglected last month, should be attended to yet, and trans¬ 
ferred to sections where much buckwheat is laised. When¬ 
ever bees can have access to a full supply of these flow¬ 
ers, all strong, full stocks ought to store at least twenty 
pounds of honey in the boxes this month. Give them 
abundant room ; if it is not all filled, no harm will bedone. 
Surplus boxes should not be higher than five or six 
inches. 
The small pieces of new white comb should not be for¬ 
gotten. Dip one edge in melted bees wax and stick it fast 
in the top before cooling ; it is quite important as an en¬ 
couragement for the bees to begin. When a large supply 
of such combs can be had, enough to fill the boxes may be 
put in on the start, setting them up in a natural position ; 
hives so prepared will be filled with honey in much less 
time than when all the combs have to be constructed. 
Sw arms that issue this month, seldom amount to much, 
and the parent stock is much reduced; such swarms 
should have their queens taken from them and then be re¬ 
turned to the old stock. They will seldom reissue at this 
season with a young queen. Keep boxes of surplus honey 
in a dry place and cool if possible. Keep a lookout for the 
moth worm in them. If it appears, put the boxes in a 
close barrel or box, and smoke with brimstone. 
----»-»-- 
Aberdeen Turnips. 
A subscriber iu Orange Co., N. Y., writes : 
Seeds under the napie of White Aberdeen Tur¬ 
nips, have been peddled about the country as 
something extra, and asks if there is such a thing, 
and what are its qualities. There is both a white 
and yellow Aberdeen turnip, differing very little 
from each other, except in color. They were 
formerly cultivated to considerable extent, espe¬ 
cially in England, but appear to have been sup¬ 
planted by the Swedes. Seed of the yellow Aber¬ 
deen is on sale at the seed stores in this city, at 
75 cents per pound, retail. We inquired for the 
white at two or thr£e places, and was answered 
that it was not called for, and they had ceased to 
keep it. The Ashcroft, Swede, and Stubble tur¬ 
nip, and especially the White French, are vastly 
superior to the Aberdeen. 
-■«*-«-—■ga^H rrn -- 
Turnips may yet be Sown. —It is not too late 
to sow Field Turnips in the first week in August 
and even later. We have known good crops 
made from seed put in as late as the first week in 
September. A few varieties are still offered by 
us. See another page. 
