AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
SOI 
before the ground freezes for the Winter, as directed 
elsewhere. 
Refuse of the garden, such as tops and trimmings of 
turnips, cabbages, beets, and carrots, also tomatoes, cu¬ 
cumbers, pumpkins, squashes, &c.. should all be gather¬ 
ed and fed to cattle and swine rather than waste upon the 
ground, unpleasant both to sight anl smell. 
Rhubarb—Plant roots or crowns of the Linnaeus, mm, 
I. A few may be set in the cellar, II, or next month, for 
early forcing in the Spring. 
Salsify—Treat as parsneps. 
Seeds—Continue to collect the late- varieties for plant¬ 
ing another season. 
Spinach—Cover, 11, the sowings of last month and sow 
seed, f, m, in cold frames. Weed and thin former sow¬ 
ings, cooking the surplus plants. 
Squashes—Take in before they freeze, and keep in a cool 
drv place as long as may be, previous to putting in the 
cellar, or other Winter quarters. 
Strawberries may still be set out, fif, to m, although last 
month was the preferable season. Hoe and weed those 
previously planted as well as old beds. Cover with leaves 
or give a thin coating of manure, 11, for a partial Winter 
protection. 
Tomatoes—Continue to put away in cans or bottles for 
Winter use ; they will be very acceptable next Winter. 
Turnips are still increasing in size. Harvest Winter 
keeping varieties only when severe weather is threaten¬ 
ing. 
Weeds should decay in the hog pens, rather than in the 
garden. 
Winter Cherries—Collect as they drop upon the ground 
and put away as directed last month, or use in jellies, 
sauces or pies. 
Flower harden asad Lawn. 
These have not lost their attractions, if a choice selec¬ 
tion of late blooming annuals and perennials are taste¬ 
fully interspersed. The ground should not be neglected 
at this season, when decaying flower stalks, growing weeds 
and uncared for walks are too often observable during 
this month Some of the early blooming shrubs, herba¬ 
ceous plants, and especially flowering bulbs will need 
planting duringthe latterpart ofthis month tomake afine 
show of bloom next Spring. 
Bedded Plants—Lift before heavy frosts, and pot for 
Winter or early Spring bloom, Geraniums, Verbenas, 
Fuchsias, Petunias, &c. Cuttings may now be taken to 
form new plants of each of the above. Place them in pots 
at once. 
Bulbs—Plant crown imperial, hyacinth, tulip, crocus, 
lilies, polyanthus, ranunculus, anemone, oxalis, tuberose, 
snow drop, &c., f, m, in preference to leaving them until 
November. No flower garden is complete without a good 
collection of bulbs. See full directions on page 230 of 
last volume. 
Carnations, Pinks and Picotees—Pot the layers which 
are now rooted, and remove them inside, 11, or pack in 
frames or pits 
Chrysanthemums now make a fine show of bloom, and 
are the more prized as annuals and other plants are 
mostly out of flower. Keep neatly tied up and only cut 
away when actually killed by frost. 
Dahlias and Gladiolus—Mark the different varieties be 
fore the blooms disappear, and take up, 11, and put inbox¬ 
es of earth or sand in a cool dry cellar. 
Dielytra Spectabilis—Plant, mm, 1, dividing the roots. 
Frames and Pits—Prepare, ff, for tender plants requir¬ 
ing a protection. 
Grass and Gravel—Keep both in good order, raking off 
the leaves and keeping free from weeds. 
Hedges—Plant deciduous, m, 1, on dry ground. 
Lilies—Plant, m, 1, instead of leaving them until next 
Spring, if a free bloom is wanted the first year. 
Pasonies—Transplant or plant out both the herbaceous 
and tree varieties, mm, 1. 
Perennial flowers and shrubs are best divided and re¬ 
set in the Fall, especially early blooming kinds. 
Seeds—Some of the late varieties of flowers are still 
ripening. Save seeds, ff, m. 
Shrubs—Plant Pyrus Japonica, Dwarf Almond, Hardy 
Azalias, Sweet Scented Shrubs, Scotch Broom, Mezereon, 
Deutzias,Honeysuckles, Euonymus, Altheas,Hydrangeas, 
Jasmine, Privet, Mahonias, Syringos, Flowering Cur¬ 
rants, Purple Fringe. Spiraeas, Snowberry, Lilacs, Vi¬ 
burnums, Roses and^lhinese Weigelia. These are de¬ 
sirable hardy shrubs, many of them blooming quite early 
in the season, and on this account do best with Fall 
planting. 
Stocks and Wall Flowers—Take up and pot, ff, carry¬ 
ing to the Green House or pits. 
Tender Plants either planted in borders or set out in 
pots will all need removing to the houses, m, 11. 
Trees—Plant shade in the lawn, along the avenues, 
walks and about the yards, m, 1. Combine utility with 
beauty and let a few of them be cherry or pear, which 
- iy be framed to an ornamental form. 
Green and Hot lionises. 
Having thoroughly cleansed and repaired these as di¬ 
rected last month, the flues, furnaces and water pipes be¬ 
ing in readiness to start fires at any moment, examine 
those plants still out, and bring them in as they require it. 
The more tender ones will need housing, ff, while some 
may remain in the borders or pots, m, 1. Cleanse from 
moss and remove all decayed leaves while bringing in. 
Unless there are several houses of different temperatures 
the plants must be arranged with reference to the heat of 
one room, placing some near and others at a distance from 
the furnace. Group them according to their kinds, by 
placing succulents together, bulbs and orchids by them¬ 
selves, and woody plants in another collection. 
Air should be admitted very freely, especially when 
plants are first brought in, else the sudden transition to 
a warm room will prove injurious. 
Bulbs—Pot a quantity, m, 11, and set in the Green 
House for Winter blooming. 
Fires will need starting in Hot Houses, f, m. Avoid 
too great a heat at the commencement. The particular 
temperature of each room must be regulated by the col¬ 
lection it contains. 
Fuchsias—Lift and pot, ff, m, those now growing in 
borders, taking to the houses for Winter bloom, or ifonly 
to preserve till Spring, set them in a dry cellar or flower 
pit. Young plants may be placed near the flue for early 
flowering. 
Grapes—To preserve the ripe fruit as long as possible 
upon the vines, give no w'ater and keep the rooms well 
ventilated. Expel moisture during stormy weather by a 
gentle artificial heat. Bring in potted vines which have 
been exposed during the Summer. Shorten in late growth. 
Insects—Do not allow them to get a footing. A deter¬ 
mined resistance with oil soap, tobacco fumes and the 
syringe will keep them in check. Houses are presumed 
to be free from them now, and it is much better to keep 
them so. 
Pots within the houses should be tastefully arranged 
with the taller growing varieties on the upper back shelves 
and the lower kinds in front. 
Water—Give moderately inside the houses, syringing 
overhead occasionally. 
Apiary for October. 
BY M. QUINBY. 
St. Johnsville, N. Y. 
Bees will add nothing more to their stores now, and all 
surplus boxes should be removed, and all that are not 
suitable for stocks, should be taken care of. The stores 
for wintering a stock, should not be much less than twen¬ 
ty-five pounds ; and a good sized colony is as important as 
the amount of honey. When both bees and honey are 
wanting, it will seldom pay to try to make a good stock, 
if bees are wanting only, they should be obtained if pos¬ 
sible, from some neighbor who has a colony doomed to the 
pit. If you have such a colony at home, put them upon 
the stand of those transfered. The trouble of introducing, 
or transfering a small colony, will not pay at this season- 
in Spring, it will do better to nurse a small family. If it 
be honey that is wanting, and there are combs enough to 
hold it, the bees may be fed advantageously. Boxes only 
part full can be set on the top of the hive till the honey 
is removed, and then set them away with the combs un¬ 
disturbed for use another year. Honey taken from a hive 
will not do to feed if there is any foul brood in it, with¬ 
out first straining and scalding. West India honey will 
do to feed, and is cheaper, but is not safe without scald¬ 
ing. Add water to prevent burning, then scald and skim 
it thoroughly. To prevent other bees from stealing it, 
put it on the top of the hive to be fed, open the holes 
for communication, and cover with a close box. The 
dish containing it should be a shallow one, and have some 
shavings or other floating material laid on the honey to 
keep the bees from drowning. Take some cool morning 
to examine the strength of the families, and raise the hive 
carefully till a good view of the interior is obtained. The 
best ones will now occupy all the spaces between the 
combs. If the combs are well stoied with honey, the 
cluster of the bees will be near the bottom, if not, further 
up. It is quite common to he deceived ; the bees make a 
show in proportion to the honey. The best guarantee of 
good luck in Winter, is to avoid endeavoring to keep a 
large lot of poor stocks. 
CSja.ng'img' ISees to new Hives.—I. L., 
North Easton, Mass., asks some questions about bees to 
which he can find answers in successive numbers of the 
paper. In respect to changing bees from one hive to a 
“new and more commodious” one, we should not advise 
an inexperienced bee-keeper to attempt it. Let them stay 
in the old box, and rely on new swarms to fill up the new 
hives. We do not think that tobacco smoke blown in at 
the basement would lead them “to peaceably leave their 
old home and quietly cluster in some obscure place until 
a new hive is placed over them.” G. 
Agricultural Editorial Convention. 
One of the most pleasing events of the past month has 
been the privilege we have enjoyed of meeting in this city, 
during a single week, some seventeen or eighteen of our 
brethren of the Agricultural Press, several of them forthe 
first time. Scattered, as we are, over a wide territory, 
we had hardly hoped to greet in a year even, so many 
to whom we hold the peculiar relationship of fellow la 
borers in the same enterprise, that of promoting the ele¬ 
vation and improvement of agricultural labor. 
It was the hope of many of us that the occasion of the 
biennial convention of the American Pornologicai Soci¬ 
ety, on Sept. 14, 15 and 16, would furnish an appropriate 
season for meeting in council, not only to become better 
acquainted individually, but also to discuss the best means 
of advancing our peculiar profession. The former end 
was in a measure accomplished, though the latter was 
partly interfered with, by the programme of the Pomo- 
logioal Society, as the meetings of that body commenced 
at 9 A. M., and lasted until 10 P. M., with only a short 
recess at 1 and 5 o’clock for a hasty repast. Furthermore, 
our fraternity seemed to be in so great demand as work- 
e s that a large number of those present, were kept con¬ 
stantly occupied ou various fruit committees all the time 
the Pornologicai Society was not in session. However, 
two meetings were held, at which considerable interest 
was manifested, and several suggestions were made by 
different gentlemen, as to the importance, and the power of 
the agricultural press, especially if there could be any de¬ 
gree of concert of action ; also the best means of bringing 
about that end. There was a general desire that arrange¬ 
ments should be made fora future gathering of all persons 
connected Editorially with Agricultural and Horticultural 
Journals. 
After due consultation and interchange of opinions it 
was unanimously resolved to appoint a President and 
Secretary and a Joint Committee, who should consult to¬ 
gether and select the best time and place next season, and 
issue a call for a general convention. The time and place 
were left unsettled, as it was thought that these might 
best be fixed in connection with some other prominent 
agricultural or horticultural gathering. The following 
officers were chosen: 
President —H. P. Byiiam, Editor Valley Fa-mer, Louis¬ 
ville, Ky. 
Secretary —Orange Judd, Editor American Agricultur¬ 
ist, New-York City. 
General Committee— Hon. Simon Brown. Editor N. E. 
Farmer, Boston; Mason C. Weld, Editor Homestead, 
Hartford, Conn. ; Joseph Harris, Editor Genesee Farmer, 
Rochester, N. Y ; Thomas Brown, Editor Ohio Farmer, 
Cleveland, O. ; J. W. Hoyt, Editor Wisconsin Farmer, 
Madison, Wis. 
A paper was received and read from J. W. Hoyt, Editor 
Wisconsin Farmer, regretting his unavoidable absence, 
heartily sympathizing with the objects of the convention, 
and proposing united action with reference to various 
important enterprises, such as the donation of public lands, 
by Congress for the establishmentof Agricultural Schools 
and Colleges, etc. Other gentlemen, who were detained 
at home, as many were, by distance, and especially by the 
numerous local Exhibitions occurring at this season, sent 
in their regrets at being absent, and their best wishes for 
the success of the enterprise. 
There are now thirty-eight journals in this country, in 
eluding two in California and one in Oregon, which are in 
the main, devoted to agriculture and horticulture, and so 
wide is the field that there is abundant room for as many 
more, with a ten-fold circulation for each of those already 
inexistence. We heartily respond to the sentiments ex¬ 
pressed at the meeting by Mr. Redmond, of the Southern 
Cultivator, that there should be no jealousies, or bicker¬ 
ings, or contests between the individual members of the 
fraternity. 
Our calling is a noble, an important one ; let us labor, 
each in his own way and sphere, but with a united pur¬ 
pose to elevate our profession, and promote to Ihe highest 
degree, the growth and development of the fruits of the 
soil. / 
--o-.--- 
Fife Wheat Isi Wisconsin.—“Young Man” 
sends us a well written letter (his first for the press), re¬ 
specting crops in Turtle Rock Co., Wis., but which we 
have not room for. He enclosed a sample of tiie Fife, 
or Golden Drop Spring Wheat, which shows well. The 
wheat crop in that section has turned out fair, with the 
exception of the “ Canada Club ” wheat, which was sown 
exclusively by many farmers, and turned out badly, while 
the “ Fife ” produced a good crop. The sample enclosed 
was from a 3-acre field, yielding over 100 bushels. lie 
adds : “ Wherever the Agriculturist has found its way, 
a decided improvement may be seen in the system of 
farming. 
