AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
328 
Rools ami vegetables should be perfectly dry when put 
in the cellar, and be kept from the light as much as pos¬ 
sible. A covering of mats or straw spread over the bins 
will assist in keeping them fresh. Ventilate the cellar 
when practicable. 
Salsafy—Treat in ail respects as Parsneps. 
Seeds—Save the remaining late kinds and clean out 
those already collected. Label and mark the date upon 
each kind and put in a dry place out of reach of rats and 
mice. 
Spinach—Cover with straw or sedge, m, 1, previously 
thinning and weeding. It Winters much better when 
well thinned out. Allow no water to stand upon the 
ground. 
Squashes—Remove to a cooi ary cellar before they 
freeze. Handle with care, and if properly managed they 
will keep till January or February. Save seeds of the 
best specimens for planting. 
Strawberries may still be set out, ff. Clean and thin 
out old beds previous to covering with coarse manure, 
straw or forest leaves, m, 1. 
Tools—Repair any needing it previous to putting away 
for the Winter. A tool-house or room is a necessary 
apartment for the garden. 
Turnips— Harvest as directed under the “ Farm.” 
Flower Garden and Lawn. 
As cold weather approaches the remaining tender 
plants will require housing or out door protection, and 
the grounds should be put in a neat condition, that they 
lose not all of their attractiveness during the “ dreary 
Winter.” 
Annuals—Some of the more hardy kinds sown in Sept, 
and Oct., will now require a slight covering of leaves or 
evergreen brush. A few may still be sown, ff. 
Bedded Plants—Lift and take to the houses, ff, before 
they are injured by frosts. 
Bulbs should all have been put in last month. Plant, 
ff, any remaining. A covering of straw, coarse manure, 
tan-bark, saw-dust or leaves, spread over the beds will 
cause a finer bloom next season, especially of ranuncu¬ 
luses, anemones, and hyacinths. 
Carnations—Layers may now be potted and taken to 
houses or pits, f, m. 
Chrysanthemums—Many of these like “ the last rose 
of Summer, are blooming alone. All their lovely compan¬ 
ions having faded and gone.” With the exception of a 
few asters, tl.ey are about the only bloom unkilled by the 
frosts. Keep neatly tied to stakes. Divide and reset, m, 
11 . 
Dahlias and Gladiolas—Take up as soon as killed by 
frosts, remove the tops, labelling and packing away in 
dry earth or sand, secure from freezing. 
Daisies—Cover, or otherwise protect, m, 1. See article 
on a following page. 
Dielvtra Spectabalis—Divide and reset roots, ff, m, in 
preference to leaving until Spring. 
Flower stalks and rubbish of all kinds should be re¬ 
moved from the grounds ; walks, beds and lawn raked, 
that clean, neat premises may welcome the sight at all 
times. 
Frames and Pits—Place the remaining plants requiring 
protection in these, ff, m, and secure them from freezing 
by extra covering as severe weather comes on. 
Hedges—Plant buckthorn, althea, privit, acacia, &c., 
ff, m. 
Lilies -Transplant, ff, m, any requiring it, dividing the 
oots or bulbs. 
Manures will be wanted in the Spring. Procure or 
manufacture them at this season. 
Pseonies, foxgloves, hollyhocks, and other perennials 
may be divided and reset, f, m. 
Roses—Plant hardy varieties, ff, m. Low growing, 
tender sorts may be bent over and covered with earth as 
a Winter protection, or potted and taken to pits or houses. 
Shrubs—Plant, ff, m, those varieties alluded to last 
month, unless they were attended to at that time. 
Stakes and Dahlia Poles—Collect and lay away under 
cover for future use. 
Tender shrubs will require protection during this month. 
The more common plan is to straw them up, which per¬ 
haps gives them the nearest appearance. We rather dis¬ 
like the pressure and lack of air when straw is used, and 
prefer small evergreens fastened around them. 
Trees—Plant shade trees, ff, m, about the yards and 
lawns. 
Green and Hot Houses. 
These are now supposed to be full, and fire heat already 
in use for collections of tender and tropical plants. It is 
important that they suffer no check from a cool atmos¬ 
phere, which is sometimes allowed between the wan¬ 
ing heat of an Autumnal sun, and the starting of Winter 
fires. It is also presumed that water pipes are used to 
generate heat, as these, after numerous and oft repeated 
trials are almost universally decided to be the best. With 
the more hardy green-house plants fires need only be 
started when there is actual danger of frost inside the 
houses. 
Air all of the houses as much as practicable. Half hardy 
plants recently carried to the green-house, especially need 
abundance of air while becoming accustomed to a change 
of situation. The more tender collections of the hot¬ 
house will need a frequent change of air, which, in very 
cold weather, must be admitted through the upper venti¬ 
lators. 
Annuals—Commence potting those sown last month, 
using pots of a blooming size. 
Borders—Fork in manure, ff, covering with straw or 
litter at the same time, and bank up where necessary to 
exclude frost. 
Bulbs—Pot a quantity and take to the green-house, to 
be brought forward from time to time for Winter bloom¬ 
ing. 
Cactuses—Keep cool and water sparingly at present. 
Calceolarias and Cinerarias—Pot and shift for bloom¬ 
ing. 
Camellias are now in a fine growing state, and, where 
forced last month, are nearly ready to bloom. Place in a 
light airy situation and water and syringe more freely. 
Crysanthemums in flower need frequent waterings and 
an airy stand. 
Fires—Keep these as even as may be, both by day and 
night, in the heated apartments. Avoid starting them 
among the more hardy plants of the green-house unless 
frost is likely to enter. There is more danger from ex¬ 
cess of heat when plants are fiist brought in, than after 
they have become accustomed to their situation. From 
35° to 40° of heat is sufficient for the green-house, while 
forcing rooms need from 50° to 60°, and 75“ with tropical 
collections. 
Fuchsias—Cut back those which have been growing 
freely, to form a compact, bushy head. They should now 
be kept cool and moderately dry, and allowed a season of 
rest. 
Grapes—This is a good time to prune, now that the 
growth is completed. Allow bearing vines to rest during 
November, even if they are to be forced to early fruiting. 
Insects—Keep them down by syringe and with tobacco 
fumes. It is far better and much easier to keep them 
in check, than to exterminate them after they have got a 
strong foothold. 
Ixias, Sparaxis and other bulbous plants require very 
little water at this season. 
Pelargoniums—Shift to pots of a blooming size, water¬ 
ing moderately. 
Pots and Tubs—Examine the sail and loosen the earth 
when necessary, removing weeds, ar.d moss which are 
found growing. Change the surface occasionally, adding 
rich potting soil, manure, &c. Pick off any decaying 
leaves from the plants, prune where needful and arrange 
them on stands or shelves in a neat attractive order. 
Roses—Keep most of them in the green-house, water¬ 
ing moderately at present. A few may be brought for¬ 
ward, pruned and forced for early blooming. Take in 
ff. any remaining out till now. 
Soil for Potting—Have a large quantity mixed under 
cover, and in readiness for use. 
Verbenas—Cuttings may still be made. Shift those in¬ 
tended for Winter blooming to pots of a larger size. 
Water—As few of the plants are now growing rapidly, 
only moderate waterings will be needful. 
Apiary for November. 
BY M. QUINBY. 
St. Johnsville, N. Y. 
If the directions of last month were followed, there 
is little to be done in the apiary this month, further than 
looking around occasionally, to see that there has been 
no mistake made by leaving some stock for Winter that 
is unsuitable. But there are matters in the house to be 
finished up, such as straining honey, making wax, &c. 
The honey in the hives taken up last month, and not 
taken care of, should be attended to before it begins to 
candy in the cells, because after that it < an not be strained 
without trouble in warming it. Mild or warm weather is 
best for this purpose. In taking honey from the hive, if 
the combs are not too old, the best pieces may be selected 
for the table. Combs near the top and side of the hive 
have the best bee-bread stored in them—the drone cells 
are usually entirely free. The inferior combs are near 
the middle and bottom, and are usually broken up and the 
honey drained out. In doing this, every cell should be 
broken, but avoid stirring it unnecessarily afterwards, as 
this might mingle too much bee-bread with it. It may be 
subjected to pressure, or simply laid on a wire, or colan- 
dar, or put in a cloth and suspended over a suitable ves¬ 
sel. Any particles of comb rising on the top are readily 
skimmed off. Honey exposed to extreme cold will be¬ 
come very hard, to prevent which, it may be scalded, or 
a very little water added and thoroughly mixed ; a little 
I less than a teacupfull to ten pounds is enough, if prefered 
.. ■ '■ ". . . . - 1 .z es. 
hard, it may be made very nice, and come to the table m 
solid form, by standing in flat dishes a little more than an 
inch deep, and exposed to the air and extreme cold a few 
weeks. When only small quantities of wax are to be 
made, the pieces of old dry combs and that which re¬ 
mains after straining the honey, are put into a sack ot 
bag of loose texture with a small stone to make it sink, 
and kept in a kettle of boiling water, frequently pushing 
it about, till the wax ceases to rise. It is skimmed off, 
remelted and cooled in any vessel that will conveniently 
hold it. 
Apples Half Sour and. Half Sweet. 
A TREE NOT KNOWN BY ITS FRUIT, BUT ITS FRUITS. 
To the Editor of the American Agriculturist: 
I send you samples of apples from a tree in my orchard, 
which may be familiar to you, but are a novelty with us. 
There first matures a small, yellow apple, of mild, sweet 
flavor. In a week or two there is, on the same tree, a 
larger apple matured—one side of which is yellow and 
sweet, the other side green and decidedly tart. 
Lastly, and later, there matures a larger apple, hat¬ 
ing something the appearance of the greening, which is 
sour and a good Winter apple. Thus we have three kinds 
from one branch. 
John Dunning 
Beemerville, Sussex Co., N. J. 
Remarks —We received the above letter after making 
up the pages where it properly belonged, and therefore in¬ 
sert it here, as it is a matter of no little interest. We have 
often heard of apples half sweet and half sour, but al. 
ways supposed there must be some mistake We are no 
longer in doubt, for here we have, in the samples sent us, 
apples which are positively sour on one side, while the 
other side is as decidedly sweet We have also the ap¬ 
ples entirely sour, and those entirely sweet, which exact¬ 
ly resemble the two sides of those half sour and half 
sweet. The sour apples are every way like R. I. Green¬ 
ings, and the sweet apples resemble the old “ August 
Sweet.” The two parts of the compound apples are very 
distinct on opposite sides, in color and flavor, but run in¬ 
to each other at the division line, which is impercepti¬ 
ble, however. There is no external or internal mark to 
show where the sweet and sour portions join. 
We further learn from the son of Mr. Dunning, who 
brought the above letter and specimens of apples, that 
scions taken from the tree, and grafted into other trees, 
have produced the triple varieties of fruit. 
The above are the facts in the case. We have, as yet, 
no theory to advance to account for the phenomenon. 
---—• • —-- 
Flowers in llloom, October 16. 
Stepping into the garden before breakfast this m nnmg, 
we were quite surprised at the number of flowers in vig¬ 
orous bloom in the open ground, so late in the season. 
We noted down the names of several, which we will put 
on record here, as example of some kinds valuable for 
late blooming, and also for comparison with othei years 
and other localities Our list now in bloom embraces ; 
Asters (China and German), Double Balsams, Canary- 
bird Vine ( tropceolum peregrinum). Candytuft, Chinese 
Pink, Clarkia, Cockscomb, Dahlia, Escholtzia, Four 
O’clock, Geranium, Yellow Hawkweed, Hibiscus, Scarlet 
Honeysuckle, Marygold, Morning Glory (of vatious col 
ors), Nasturtium, Petunia, Portulacca, Phlox Drum- 
mondii, Scabious, Schizanthus, Sweet Pea, Sweet Alys- 
sum, Tassel Flower, Thunbergia, Tuberose, Verbenia, 
Virginia Stock, Zinnia, etc. Is not this a sufficient va¬ 
riety for a garden bouquet, gathered at this late date ? 
Grape Humbngr.— A new and very valuable wine 
grape, said to be obtained by sending “ two dollars ” to a 
certain address in this city, has been announced by adver¬ 
tisements and communications admitted into certain 
agricultural papers out of the city. The thing we suspect 
to be a sheer humbug—at least we do not know anything 
about it; nor, after diligent inquiry, can we find any one 
hereabouts who does. Where is the advertiser ? Who is 
he ? Why has he not mentioned his grape to the papers 
at home , or exhibited it somewhere here 1 Why has he not 
responded to letters of inquiry sent to his advertised ad¬ 
dress ? How many persons have sent in their “ two dol¬ 
lars ?” What returns have .hey received 1 Verbum sap. 
Cranberries.— P. McLain. This subject was pret 
ty fully treated of in our last volume. May is a good 
month in which to plant. Eastwood’s “ Cranbe.ry Cul¬ 
ture,” (50 cents) is, perhaps as good a treatise as there is 
upon this subject, indeed it is the only one in this country, 
specially devoted to Cranberry Culture. The best work 
on fruits in general is “ Downing’s Fruit and Fruit Tree* 
of America,” new edition. Price $1 50. 
