1884.] 
AMERIGA.'N AGEIOULTUEIST. 
329 
i "best horse pasturage in the world. The next best 
! is a mixture of Orchard-grass {Bactylis glomorata), 
Ked Top (Agrostis vulgaris, and Meadow Fescue 
1 (Fesiucapratemis). Turn horses into the pasture at 
every opportunity. Nothing does a dry fed, steadily 
worked horse more good than a few weeks, or even 
days, on grass. 
I It is very important that the drinking water be 
pure. The weil should not be in the barn-yard, or 
it is certain to become polluted. Good cistern 
water is best, if it can be obtained. Water before 
meals. If the horse is very hot, give half a pailful; 
feed uncut hay and rub down. When somewhat 
•cooled and dry, give all it wants, then feed the 
grain. In summerpump a large trough full an hour 
before the horses come from the field ; let them 
■drink about three gallons each, then wait a moment, 
:and afterwaa'ds permit them take ail they want. 
Salt once a week is often enough on dry feed. 
When in pasture, it should be placed where the 
horses can obtain it as desired. Provide plenty of 
bedding, and see that it is dry. Shake it up the 
last thing at night, and remove all that is wet or 
soiled. Straw, forest leaves, sawdust, or any mate¬ 
rial that is dry and absorbent, is good. Use the 
currycomb and brush, whether the animal is dirty 
or not. Go over the animal from head to foot, 
once a day at least. Be very careful not to scratch 
■or hurt it in the least. Good horses are often 
made vicious by rough currying. If it is thin 
haired and tender, use a stiff bristle or wire brush, 
instead of a currycomb. AVash off the dirt that is 
difficult to remove, then rub dry with a cloth and 
brush. Comb out the mane and tail, and keep 
them smooth. There is much pride in a horse, 
and it should be promoted rather than restrained. 
Harness a horse gently ; keep the collar clean and 
have it fit. Adjust the harness so that no part hangs 
loose, or chafes. Do not check tight, or use blind¬ 
ers. Fly-nets for horses are invaluable in fly time. 
A horse will always do its utmost willingly for a 
kind master. Do not worry the life of a fast, high- 
spirited horse, by working it with a slow one. 
After a day’s work in summer, turn it into a yard to 
roll and straighten the limbs. Never let a horse 
stand out of doors unblanketed after driving in 
cold weather. Do not worry a horse when driving by 
■continually clucking or talking to him. Teach the 
animal to start and stop by voice, and to obey a light 
movement of the reins. A horse may be taught a 
great deal by an intelligent driver, but the words of 
command should be few and distinctly pronounced. 
Beejedixg. —Raise good colts, they cost no more 
to feed and care for than scrubs, and bring over 
twice as much in the market. The sire should be ab¬ 
solutely sound in wind and limb, and the dam, well 
shaped, and of good size. Light work will do her no 
harm ; heavy work will. The average period of 
gestation is three hundred and forty seven days. 
Keep the dam in a well-bedded loose box, a week or 
ten days previous to foaling, and feed hay, car¬ 
rots, bran, potatoes, and very little, if any grain. 
Do not work her until the colt is at least six weeks 
old, then keep it in the stable during the day, and 
let both run in the pasture at night. As soon as 
the colt shows a disposition to eat, give it some 
oats and bran, mixed with a little shelled corn and 
.chopped carrots. Provide it with plenty of water 
during the day. After weaning, treat it like a 
horse ; halter, curry, and handle, in the same man¬ 
ner. Feed it the best you have, and keep its 
coat smooth, and in good condition, by all means. 
When two years old, harness, and drive to a light 
wagon. Trained colts never require breaking, and 
they are worth from ten to twenty-Sve p>er cent 
more than wild, unbroken colts, simply because 
their action is already developed under harness, 
and they may be termed a finished product. 
Diseases, Injuries, Etc. —Farmers are not sup¬ 
posed to be veterinary surgeons, and it is rarely ad¬ 
visable for them to attempt to doctor stock, when 
they do not understand the nature of the ailment; 
for they are almost certain to do more harm than 
good. Whenever stock is affected by any disease 
that is not understood, it is best to refer the matter 
to a skilled veterinary surgeon at once. There are 
■a few ailments any farmer can attend to ; the most 
common is colic. Feed and water as advised, and 
colic will be almost unknown. A pint of oil, with 
one ounce of sweet spirits of nitre, is an excellent 
remedy. Injections of warm water or soapsuds, 
and walking about, will frequently cure in a short 
time. For Scratches, keep the legs clean, and the 
bedding and stall diy. Should a long spell of wet 
weather induce this trouble, get olive oil, eight 
ounces ; liquor subacetate of lead, four ounces ; 
carbolic acid, two drams ; mix, and apply with a 
sponge, once a day. Keep the legs and feet per¬ 
fectly clean and dry until cured. Feed lightly, 
carrots, bran mashes, etc. Lampass is caused 
chiefiy by hard food, like corn on the cob. Soft 
food cures it. The man who burns it out with a 
hot iron, should have his toothache cured in the 
same manner. To prevent galled shoulders, use a 
perfect fitting collar. In case the skin on the 
shoulders is thin and liable to break easily, use a 
light, wool-faced collar, or a sweat-collar, and 
bathe the shoulders with strongly-salted cold wa¬ 
ter, noon and night. If the skin is abraded, ap¬ 
ply a lotion, made as follows : Sugar of lead, one 
ounce ; sulphate of zinc, two ounces ; rain water, 
one quart. Give rest until entirely cured. If a 
horse has been accidentally exposed and taken cold, 
lost his appetite, is stift’, and has a staring coat, 
blanket, and put him in a warm, well-bedded loose 
box. Give tepid water to drink, and feed with a 
mixture of bran and oats wetted. Once a day, 
mix with his feed, two drams powdered gentian 
root, one dram ginger, three drams saltpetre. This 
mixture is superior to any “ condition powder,” 
and is excellent for horses out of condition. 
- ^ 
A House for SIOO. 
CYRIL MARE, SELMA, CAL. 
It often occurs in these days of pireemption and 
homestead rights, that a person having a very 
limited capital, wishes to construct a dwelling with 
the least possible outlay. To do this requires not 
a little tact, as well as a fair share of mechanical 
knowledge. The writer has constructed and lived 
in such a house for several months. Though 
small, it afforded fair accommodations for five per¬ 
sons, three adults and two children. The size of 
the entire structure was twelve by eighteen feet, 
with walls 12 feet high. Figure 1 shows the ex¬ 
terior of the house. Figure 2 gives the lower 
stoiy, consisting of a sitting-room nine and one- 
half by twelve feet, and a kitchen six and one-half 
by twelve feet. This allows two feet for stairway, 
with eight feet between floors, and stairs built as 
shown. There is room for a passage between the sit¬ 
ting-room and kitchen at one end, and for a closet 
at the other. Figure 3 shows a bedroom, nine and 
one-half by twelve feet, and another eight and 
one-half by twelve feet. This last, when not 
needed for a bedroom, can be used as a store¬ 
room. This upper story is lighted by a half-win¬ 
dow in each end of the house. 
TUe Estimate for Material is as follows : 
3 pieces, 2 by 4 in., 18 feet long, for sills for foundation. 
9 pieces, 2 by 4 in., 12 feet long, for floor joists. 
26 pieces, 1 by 6 in., 18 feet long, for floor. 
36 pieces, 1 by 12 in., 12 feet long, for two long walls. 
8 pieces, 1 by 12 in., 14 feet long, for ends. 
8 pieces, 1 by 12 in., 16 feet long, for ends. 
8 pieces, 1 by 12 in., 18 feet long, for ends. 
36 pieces, 1 by 4 in., 12 feet long, for battens for long walls. 
8 pieces, 1 by 4 in., 14 feet long, for battens for ends. 
8 pieces, 1 by 4 in., 16 feet long, for battens for ends. 
8 pieces, 1 by 4 in., 18 feet long, for battens for ends. 
2 pieces, 2 by 4 in., 18 feet long, for upper long plates. 
2 pieces, 2 by 4 in., 12 feet long, for upper end plates. 
2 pieces, 2 by 4 in., 18 feet long, for plates forupper floor. 
9 pieces, 2 by 4 in., 12 feet long, for joists for upper floor. 
26 pieces, 1 by 6 in., 18 feet long, for upper floor. 
7 pieces, 2 by 4 in., 18 feet long, for rafters. 
20 pieces, 1 by 4 in., 12 feet long, for slieatliing. 
10 pieces, 1 by 4 in., 14 feet long, for slieatliing. 
4 pieces, 1 by 12 in., 14 feet long, for partition above&below 
4 pieces, 1 by 12 in., 16 feet long, for partition above&below 
4 pieces, 1 by 12 in., 18 feet long, for partition above&below 
9 pieces, 1 by 12 in., 12 feet long, for side wall of stairs. 
2 pieces, 1 by 12 in., 12 feet long, tor stiles for stairs. 
2 pieces, 1 by 12 in., 12 feet long, for steps for stairs. 
2 pieces, 1 by 4 in., 18 feet long, for scrub-board. 
4 pieces. 1 by 4 in., 12 feet long, for scrub-board. 
Assorted 72 feet for door and window casing. 
Assorted 36 feet for foundation. 
The lumber at the ruling prices here would now cost..i565.00 
Shakes (split boards.'. 7.50 
1 door, $1.60; 2 windows, @ .$2.00, $4.0(1; 1 window, ^.75. 8.35 
1 lock and 1 pair hinges, $0.65 ; nails, $1.50. 5.15 
Lining cloth, $2.50; lining tacks, $0.50; wall paper, $1.00. 4.00 
Total...$90.00 
The ten dollars short of the amount mentioned, 
will allow for any minor changes that may make 
the plan conform to the desires of the builder; or, 
in the event of extra hire or freight-bills, this 
amount will be sufficient. The plan and estimate 
here given presumes that the owner does his own 
work. There is no particular skill required. Even 
these figures may be cut down, as old lumber can 
sometimes be procured for foundation and braces. 
Sheathing should project six inches at the ends of 
the building. Strips, one by four, nailed between 
pieces of sheathing and lengthwise, if rafters, 
will make the upper story tight enough for comfort. 
A Money-Crop for Next Spring. 
In the spring every one wants greens o-f some 
kind, and thej^ meet with a ready sale. By far the 
best and most profitable crop of this kind is 
siiinach. It is easily raised, and farmers who sup¬ 
ply the markets will find it very convenient to have 
a crop that will bring ready money early in the sea¬ 
son. To have a crop of spinach next spring, we 
must begin now. The seed is not to be sown until 
next month, but the preparation of the soil may be 
made this month. No matter how highly manured 
the laud may have been for the previous crop, it 
can hardly be too rich for spinach, and a liberal 
dressing of manure well worked into the soil will 
pay. The soil should be brought into a fine con¬ 
dition, by thorough plowing, harrowing, and roll¬ 
ing, and be ready for sowing next mouth. If to 
be treated as a farm crop, mark out the rows at 
distances suited to the narrowest width of the cul¬ 
tivator, say twenty-one to twenty-four inches apart, 
and sow an abundance of seed. Set the drill to 
drop the seeds half an inch apart or less. Some 
cultivators prefer to sow by hand. AVhat is of 
special importance in sowing spinach, especially at 
this season, is to bring the soil in close contact 
with the seeds. This may be done by the use of a 
moderately heavy roller, or by going over the rows 
and pressing the soil firmly upon the seed with the 
feet. Attention to this, especially in a dry season, 
may make all the difference between a good stand 
and a poor one. The time for sowing in the cli¬ 
mate of New York City, is from the first to the 
fifteenth of September ; in cooler climates the first 
named date is preferable. When the plants are up, 
the spaces between the rows must be kept well 
cultivated, and the plants thinned to two or three 
inches in the row. This will leave the plants twice 
as thick as they should be, and a final thinning to 
five or six inches should be made. The plants at 
this thinning should be carefully cut out with a 
knife or with a sharp, three-cornered hoe, and the 
thinnings used or marketed. At the approach of 
winter, in all severe localities, it is well to give 
the spinach alight covering of straw or other litter, 
to prevent injury from hard freezing. There is no 
difference in the hardiness between the kinds 
catalogued as “winter” and “ summer ” spinach. 
