1861 .] 
67 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
Plow, subsoil,and trench when the season permits. 
Potatoes—Follow directions given under “Farm.” • 
Radishes—Sow at intervals in hot-beds, ll. 
Raspberries—Remove covering from buried canes, 
and stake up, U, if sufficiently warm. Fork in a 
dressing of good compost about roots. See page 83. 
Rhubarb—Read article on page 83, this No. 
Seeds—Secure a full supply of improved varieties 
from reliable sources. Test samples before pur¬ 
chasing largely. Most kinds are forwarded by soak¬ 
ing before sowing. 
Spinach—Uncover protected beds; sow seed, ll. 
Strawberries—Rake off Winter covering, ll. Give 
top-dressing of ashes, and line compost, hoeingit in. 
Sweet Potatoes—Plant in hot-beds, ll, for sets. 
Tools—Repair old and procurenew andimproved. 
Tomatoes—Sow in hot-beds or in pots in the 
house, ll. 
Trellises, Arbors—Put in repair, and erect new. 
Turnips—Sow, ll, in hot-beds, for early use. 
Winter Cherries (Physalis)— Sow, in hot-beds, ll. 
Flowed Garden and Lawn. 
That “haste makes waste ” has been the bitter 
experience of many an ambitious gardener. A few 
warm bright days in March, should not tempt one 
to strip trees and shrubs of their Winter protection, 
to expose the frames, bring out house plants, or 
put in seeds. A sudden change in the weather, 
with a cutting north west wind, ending in a snow 
storm, may soon show the error. Better wait until 
the ground is settled warm, before exposing tender 
plants or sowing seed There is work which may 
safely be done wherever frost is- out of the ground. 
Many of the perennial flowering plants may be di¬ 
vided and reset, by which an earlier and more perfect 
bloom will be obtained. Among these are the 
posony, dicentra, chrysanthemum, sweet william, 
liolyhock, bee-larkspur, tall phlox, etc. 
Flowering shrubs, especially the early blooming- 
sorts, should also be transplanted as soon as 
the severity of Winter is past. Neither plant, 
tree, nor shrub are entirely safe when set out just 
previous to severe freezing weather. The dis¬ 
turbance of their rootlets, and the more open soil 
about a newly planted tree, render it susceptible 
to injury from hard freezing. 
Cuttings of shrubs and vines should be taken off 
early in the month before the buds swell. Keep in 
boxes of earth or sand in the cellar until planting. 
Bulbs which had a coating of manure, leaves, or 
straw given them for a Winter protection, may be 
partially or wholly uncovered, toward the latter 
part of the month, in this and Southern latitudes. 
Pruning of roses, and other flowering shrubs, and 
climbing plants should be completed, ff. Each 
plant should be cut back with reference to its flow¬ 
ering habit. By strongly heading-back those shrubs 
which only yield flowers upon the terminal branch¬ 
es, as the magnolia, spirsea, etc., the bloom is nearly 
destroyed. Roses, especially remontants, may be cut 
back freely, and a finer Autumn bloom is the result. 
Box Edgings are prone to thicken up and become 
unsightly, unless renewed, or set over every few 
years. This transplanting may be done as soon as 
frost is out, and the box will look better for the 
early change. In resetting, clip both root and top. 
Grass borders and turfing generally should be ar¬ 
ranged the latter part of the month, if the weather 
permit. Beat or trample the turf down firmly, and 
sift fine earth into the crevices. Grass edging along 
the walks or flower borders may also be trimmed 
With a sharp spade, or better still, an edging knife. 
The present is a favorable season to collect an 
abundance of manure, and to apply it to such 
places as do not admit of spading. A fine coat 
spread over the lawn will soon be leached by the 
rains, which will carry its valuable properties to the 
roots of the grass. A good dressing may also be 
given to the shrubbery and trees. 
Hot-Beds should be made about the middle of the 
month, for starting cuttings, and for sowing seeds 
for an early bloom. The gardener finds a hot-bed 
almost indispensable to propagate much from cut¬ 
tings. They need a bottom heat, and the protection 
of a glass frame, with just sufficient moisture. 
The forcing houses, conservatories and other re¬ 
ceptacles for Winter plants should now be very at¬ 
tractive, although a few of the more showy plants 
have completed their blooming period. Everything 
should be kept neat, and no rubbish, plant trim¬ 
mings, dead leaves, moss covered pots or boxes left 
upon the floor or shelves, or dust suffered to collect 
upon the leaves. The rooms should be aired fre¬ 
quently when the weather is suitable, avoiding a 
chilling draft directly upon the plants. 
Heat must be regulated, according to the object 
in view. If the house is merely a receptacle of 
plants designed to bekeptfrom the frost, and which 
are to bloom in the open borders, then a moderate 
fire heat, with the thermometer from 40° to 46°, is 
sufficient. With a collection intended for present 
flowering, or for inducing a rapid growth to use 
when the out-door planting season arrives, a Sum¬ 
mer temperature of 65“ to 75° is needed, and for 
orchids and other tropical plants, as also for prop¬ 
agating purposes, the houses or rooms may safely 
have a temperature of 90°. Whatever condition be 
aimed at, it is always better to increase the heat in 
sunshine, and let it decline a little at night. 
Acacias, Heaths, Azaleas, Epacris, etc., require 
little water, and shade from the direct rays of the sun. 
Annuals may now be sown in pots and boxes for 
decorating the open borders at planting time. 
Bedding plants started last month, should be 
pushed forward and prepared for out-door planting 
in April and May. If more are wanted, insert cut¬ 
tings or make layers at once. 
Bulbs—Keep up a successive bloom by bringing 
forward from the cooler apartments every two weeks. 
Change the water in hyacinth glasses each week. 
Camellias—Watch carefully for red spider, and 
wash the foliage of affected plants, syringing often. 
Give liquid manure to plants inclined to lag, and 
prune to a good form. 
Chrysanthemums and Fuchsias may now be prop¬ 
agated from cuttings, as may also many other half 
woody and shrubby plants. 
Fuchsias—Increase the stock by cuttings from 
new wood of old plants. Repot any needing it, and 
cut back to a compact head. 
Geraniums, Chinese primroses, Cinerarias, etc.— 
Kept near the light; turn them frequently. 
Grapes—Be careful not to rub off the first buds. 
Syringe moderately, and protect borders well. 
Insects—Washing the foliage in warm, or even hot 
water, will frequently f dislodge or destroy them, but 
where it fails, tobacco fumes must be resorted to. 
Orchard Houses—The fruit trees now require fre¬ 
quent waterings, with a moist atmosphere. Give 
liquid manure in moderate quantities, and turn the 
tubs or pots frequently. 
Pansies—Set in an airy place, with a moderate heat. 
Parlor Plants require even more care than those 
of the Hot-House, especially in point of neatness. 
The furnace or stove will need attention at night, 
especially during severe weather, or the plants will 
be chilled. They will also require frequent turning, 
especially if growing near the window, to keep 
them in an erect position. No weeds or moss should 
ever be permitted upon the pots or the earth in 
them. See that the drainage is good and only 
enough water given to keep the plants in a healthy 
state—the surface soil may have a dry appearance 
when there is sufficient moisture at the root. 
Roses—Established cuttings and roots for early 
out-door blooming, should now have larger pots. 
Syringe the walls and foliage of plants, and Wet 
the floors to induce a moist atmosphere from evap¬ 
oration. It will also tend to keep insects in check. 
Water is required in proportion to the growth of 
plants. As most plants are now pushing out vigor¬ 
ously, liberal sprinklings should be given; make 
sure of good drainage. Let the water be taken from 
a cistern or tank in the house; it should be of the 
| same temperature as the atmosphere. 
Apiary Squ MarcBc. 
BY M. QOINBY. 
The bees cun fly out, and collect pollen iu some 
places, during many days this month. After one or 
two favorable days, examine the condition of each 
stock, on some clear cool morning. Several im¬ 
portant points should be ascertained noiv. You 
want to know the strength of the colony, whether 
they have a queen or not, whether they have suffi¬ 
cient stores to last through the Spring, and if tlio 
combs are in good condition. 
The common hive is readily examined by turn¬ 
ing it over. It can Often be done with care, with¬ 
out arousing the bees ; they maybe quieted with to¬ 
bacco smoke if necessary. Let the isun shine di¬ 
rectly between the combs. The cluster of bees in 
the strongest colonies will extend through nearly 
all the combs. When there are bees between only 
two or three combs, the colony is weak, and needs 
much care to save it from robbers, especially in 
large apiaries. Close the entrance, allowing room 
for only one bee to pass at a time. It is quite com¬ 
mon for weak colonies to be short of honey. The 
inexperienced ought to avoid feeding unnecessarily; 
it induces robbing, and a greater consumption of 
honey. Ascertain, if possible, whether there be any 
store on hand; while the hive is inverted, look to 
the top of the outside combs for scaled honey. As 
long as that may be seen, the colony will not starve 
in two weeks, unless plundered. When none can 
be seen, it is best to feed. Although it may be done 
out of doors—unless the cold weather is unusually 
protracted—it is better during this month, to bring 
the hive to the house as directed last month. 
When these things are neglected, a colony may be 
found some morning apparently dead—bees on the 
floor, and scattered among the combs. But unless 
they have been in this situation over twenty four 
hours, they may be revived. To ascertain this, 
warm a few of them gradually; any sign of life in¬ 
dicates that the swarm may be saved. To pour 
a few spoonfuls of liquified sugar, or honey warmed, 
directly among the bees between the combs, is,prob¬ 
ably the best thing to be done. Tie a cloth over the 
hive to confine the bees, and bring to the fire to 
warm up. In a few hours, after consuming all the 
food, they may be returned to the stand, or room, 
and regularly fed as before directed.Another 
phase of destitution, is desertion. It is liable to 
take place in unfavorable seasons, up to the time ot 
clover flowers. The bees issue precisely as a swarm, 
and continue flying a long time. They sometimes 
cluster, but more frequently return, or join some 
other stock. In the latter case, they are frequently 
destroyed. If they cluster, return them to their 
own hive, and feed regularly. 
The presence of a queen is often determined on 
first raising the hive. A good stock will have long 
since commenced rearing brood, and some few im¬ 
mature bees may usually be found on the board. 
If none are seen, some of the eggs may possibly be 
discovered by a close inspection" of the dust that 
has fallen from the cluster. Either, when seen, may 
be taken as evidence of a queen. The absence of 
these signs is suspicious, but not conclusive. The 
stock should be disposed of before running down 
too low. By driving the bees away from the combs 
when they have clustered, sealed brood can be seen 
if they have any. A queenless colony at this sea¬ 
son, will frequently desert and join some other. 
The queenless, or deserted hive should be cared for 
immediately. Without bees, the moth will destroy 
it as soon as the weather is sufficiently warm, yet by 
smoking thoroughly with sulphur as the worms 
hatch, it may be saved advantageously for a swarm. 
An ordinary swarm without a queen now, will 
about run down by the swarming season. The 
bees should be joined with some weak stock. It 
any old stock is diseased just enough to spoil it— 
such as is mentioned in “The Apiary for Septem¬ 
ber, 1860 ”—it will be just what is wanted for either 
the queenless or deserted hive. 
If any colony is found dead, and the bees have 
been left between the combs till moldy, all the 
affected portion should be broken out. The re¬ 
mainder, if clean, may do for the use of the bees 
again... .If the bees between part of the combs are 
dead, remove them; when moldy, cut out the combs 
as far as mold extends. 
Bees that are in the house, may be set out on the 
first fair, Warm day. Should they become uneasy 
before such a day occurs, and leave the hives, put 
some snow or ice on the floor of the room. Put out 
but few at first—in an hour or two, as many 
more. Each should occupy its old stand if possi¬ 
ble. Let the first be as far apart as possible, and 
others may be set between afterward. By looking 
just at night, at those set out during the day, the 
loss of the queen is often ascertained by the un¬ 
usual commotion among the bees at this time. 
Unbolted rye meal finely ground, is still recom¬ 
mended as a valuable bee feed. Its chief value de¬ 
pends on being fed early, before much pollen is ob¬ 
tained from the flowers. Let all the bees have ac¬ 
cess to it, by spreading over a large surface, as a 
sheet or floor made for the purpose, and placing it 
in some warm corner a few rods from the hives. 
Green and Mot-Blouses. 
