1801 .] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
99 
plowing between the rows, grafting, or sowing seeds. 
To facilitate the tilling of orders, have a good col¬ 
lection of different sorts heeled in, in a convenient 
dry spot, to be drawn from at pleasure. Label 
carefully, and use every precaution to keep the va¬ 
rieties distinct. Nothing injures the reputation of 
a nursery more than mistakes in this particular. 
Budded Trees not cut back last season, should be 
topped to within two inches of the bud, unless that 
has dried up, in which case graft the stock. 
Dwarf Trees—Set a few dwarf apple, pear and 
cherry trees, which will require less space and come 
sooner into bearing. They can be set between 
standards. 
Dwarf pear trees especially, are desirable on small 
plots. About 50 of them may be conveniently grown 
on three rods or fifty feet square; that is, seven 
rows each way, the trees seven feet apart, which 
affords plenty of room. With a rich, deeply work¬ 
ed soil, and appropriate close pruning, they will 
yield a large amount of fruit soon after planting, and 
afford not a little pleasure to the cultivator. A vig¬ 
orous little dwarf pear tree, so low that you can look 
down upon its top, and so closely pruned that you 
can almost encircle its branches in your arms, and 
yet loaded with a dozen to fifty great luscious pears, 
is one of the most attractive objects in a garden. 
They are not always to be relied upon, but in a 
small way are worth all the labor and care they cost 
So we say, let there be one square of dwarf pears in 
every garden. Trees of the best sorts, advanced 
enough to bear in a year or two, can be had for 40 
to 50 cents each, at our leading nurseries. Last 
Spring we set 64 trees from the nursery, on a plot 
60 feet square, and though they were transplanted 
the latter part of May, when in bloom, every oneis 
now alive, notwithstanding the drouth of the Sum¬ 
mer ; moreover, the half a dozen trees, which we al¬ 
lowed to fruit the first year, contrary to what we 
should advise as a rule, each bore from 7 to 20 
splendid pears. 
Evergreens can be transplanted now, but we have 
had the best success with those planted out just 
when new branches begin to start, say about the 
middle of May. Nursery-grown evergreens careful¬ 
ly transplanted at that time, are about as sure to 
live as deciduous trees. 
Grafting will come in for a good share of atten¬ 
tion in nursery and orchard. A few pence worth 
of cions will mend the manners, and render valuable 
that good for nothing, but vigorous old nuisance, 
yclept an apple tree. 
Grape and other vines may be planted, /, m, and 
old wood layered at the same time. Provide a few 
of the newer good grape vines, or you will be be¬ 
hind the age, both in fashion and enjoyment. 
Head back the pear and apple trees which are 
growing too up rightly. This will induce side shoots, 
and make stocky and much more valuable trees. 
One of them will be worth more than a half dozen 
“ whip stocks ” which require stakes to hold them 
up. An upright branch may sometimes be bent and 
tied down with advantage. 
Hedge Plants—Honey locust, buckthorn, Osage 
orange, and other seed kept in boxes over Winter, 
should be planted, /, m. Dry seed will be more 
likely to vegetate if scalded for one minute before 
sowing. Cut back one year old plants, if to remain 
in the nursery a year longer, which will make them 
more bushy and better every way. 
Inarching, or Grafting by approach, as described 
on page 117, may now be performed. 
Insects—Eggs of the caterpillar are frequently 
seen at this season in a compact Cluster, firmly 
glued to the twigs of apple trees. Cut or rub them 
off and burn them. Destroy any cocoons in the 
forks or under the loose bark of trees. Search out 
and kill any borers allowed to spend the Winter in 
apple or peach trees. Wash offscale, or bark louse, 
with a strong soap suds, or better still, a solution of 
one pound of potash to six quarts of water. The 
eggs are now under the old scales, and will be crush¬ 
ed, or so exposed as not to hatch, if their natural 
covering be removed by washing or scraping. 
Manure should be used liberally, as well upon the 
ground now being planted in an orchard, as about 
the roots of bearing trees, in the nursery rows, and 
on land for the first time taken for nursery purposes. 
It will be much more difficult to apply it when the 
ground is covered with trees. Manure pays as well 
in tree growing and fruit bearing as elsewhere. 
Lime, ashes, and decomposed muck are good fertil¬ 
izers both in orchard and nursery. 
Pack carefully all trees to be sent away. 
Pits of cherries, peaches, plums, apricots, and ap¬ 
ple, pear, and quince seed should be put in, ff. They 
should have been kept in earth during the Winter, 
and, if so, are about sprouting. Handle carefully, 
and sow in rows rather than broadcast. Acorns, 
nuts, magnolia, and other tree seeds should be 
planted in the same manner. 
Planting out and transplanting generally, both of 
fruit and shade trees, excepting evergreens, should 
be done in early Spring. Make preparations for, 
and begin the work as soon as the ground is dry 
enough to dig. Nurserymen often lose a portion 
of their stocks from late planting. 
Plow out the nursery rows, ff, m, turning the fur¬ 
rows from the trees, if the last plowing was tow¬ 
ard them. All grounds to be planted as an or¬ 
chard or nursery, should also be thoroughly and 
deeply plowed, and also subsoiled. It is well to 
keep the newly planted orchard under the plow for 
at least a few years after planting. 
Plum Trees—Set these in a suitable place for a 
poultry yard, so that the fowls may destroy the cur- 
culio. Cut away any black warts found upon the 
branches. 
Pruning—Spring is not the best time to remove 
large branches. The ascending sap escapes at the 
wound, and, running down, discolors and poisons 
the bark. Nor does the new growth close over it 
readily. Where it is really necessary to remove 
such branches, coat the wound with grafting wax, 
or better still, gum shellac dissolved in alcohol to the 
consistence of cream. We prefer leaving large 
branches until there is no more free sap, and when 
the new wood has already begun to form. The 
wound will then heal quickly and firmly, leaving 
sound, healthy wood beneath. Betterprune at this 
season only with the pruning knife, for removing 
straggling twigs and suckers. See article on page 
82, last month. 
Stools, that is those shrubs kept for propagating, 
should now be dug about, and the last season’s 
growth layered. Remove the layers of last year, if 
well rooted. 
Stocks, or seedling cherry, pear, apple, etc., trees, 
should be planted, ff, m, so as to get an early start. 
They will thus be in a better condition to bud next 
Summer. 
Spade early among trees too thickly planted to 
admit the plow. A fork spade is better than the 
shovel form. 
Trench ground for planting a nursery upon, if it 
can be done. It can not be done when covered with 
trees. 
Kitchen and Fruit Garden. 
This should be the pet plot of the whole farm, as 
by proper care it may be made the most profitable 
and pleasant department of labor. After once be¬ 
ing properly prepared, it can be kept enriched with 
the sink slops and wash water of the house, and it 
affords an excellent school where boys may take 
their first practical lessons in soil culture. In it 
may also be tried various experiments at little cost, 
the results of which can be used to advantage upon 
a larger scale. 
Hat all inclined to wetness, thoroughly under¬ 
drain it; then make the soil so deep, rich and mel¬ 
low, that plants will have nothing to do but grow, 
when once started. If in an exposed situation, pro¬ 
tect it with a hedge of Norway Spruce or other shel¬ 
tering trees, ora close board fence, especially on the 
north, and on the west or windward side. The south 
side of a high fence is an excellent place for early 
vegetables, and is a partial substitute for a hot-bed. 
Apricots are tender, and shy bearers in most 
northern localities. Plant a few by a wall or fence. 
Artichokes—Sow seed,/, m, in rich soil, in drills 
two inches deep, and eighteen inches apart. When 
once established, the tubers left in the ground in the 
Fall, will keep up a supply the following year. Re¬ 
move covering from old beds; divide and reset 
roots in hills three feet apart, m, l. 
Asparagus—Rake off the loose manure put on for 
Winter protection, and fork the finer particles into 
the ground, ff. Do this carefully, so as not to bruise 
the tender crowns of the plants. If salt is to be ap¬ 
plied, put it on now, that it may be dissolved by the 
spring rains, and find its way to the roots. For 
new beds, procure roots, dig deeply, enrich the 
ground with abundance of horse manure well 
mixed with the soil, and set the crowns two inch¬ 
es below the surface, in rows one foot apart. 
Basil—Used for seasoning soups and sauces. Sow, 
l, on the edge of beds ; thin to six inches apart. 
Bean Poles and Brush for Peas—Procure a full 
supply, and prepare for use. In gardens in cities, 
where poles and brush are not easily accessible, a 
trellis of stakes and twine will answer equally well 
Beets—For first use sow,/ - , or as soon as frost is 
out of the ground, on deep rich soil, in drills half an 
inch deep, eighteen inches apart. Soak the seed 
two days before planting. The Long Blood and 
Turnip Rooted varieties are considered best. 
Blackberries—See directions in March No., p. 83. 
Borecole or Scotch Kale is a much esteemed veg¬ 
etable used for greens late in the season, after frost 
has acted upon it. The tall and dwarf curly sorts 
are best. Sow seed, l, in small beds of rich soil, 
broadcast, and rake in lightly. Water occasionally if 
dry. Transplant like cabbages in June and July. 
Broccoli—A vegetable somewhat resembling 
cauliflower, but not equaling it in flavor, though 
liked by many. Granger’s Early is a good variety. 
Sow and cultivate as directed for Borecole. 
Brussels Sprouts—Another plant of the cabbage 
family, cultivated like the last two named. 
Cabbage—Transplant from hot-beds, m, l, if the 
weather be warm and settled. Sow seed, l , in open 
mellow ground, and rake in lightly, for later crops. 
Early York is recommended for early, and Marble¬ 
head Drumhead, and Stone Mason for late. 
Carrots—Sow, m , l, in deep rich soil, in drills an 
inch deep, one foot apart. The Early Horn variety 
for first use, and Long Orange for late, are preferred. 
Cauliflower—Transplant from cold pits, l, and 
cultivate as cabbage. For Fall crop, sow in May. 
Celery—Sow White Solid variety, l, and treat as 
directed on page 115. It is a capital relish. 
Chervil is an aromatic herb used in soups and 
salads. Sow,/, m, l, in drills half an inch deep. 
Chives—Set bulbs, m, l, on edges of beds, six 
inches apart, two inches deep. 
Cold Frames—The covers may now be removed 
almost entirely during warm days, to harden off 
the plants. Transplant hardy plants to open ground, 
m, l, and sow seeds for future use. 
Cucumbers—For first use plant seeds of the Ear¬ 
ly Cluster variety, in small squares of turf, ff; or 
hollow out turnips, fill with earth, and put one 
seed to a bulb. Keep these in a box in the house 
until the season is advanced enough to set them out 
safely. If turnips be used, cut off the bottoms 
when they are removed to the garden, to allow the 
roots to spread. Make hills six feet apart, raised 
six inches above the surrounding soil; sandy loam 
enriched with manure and ashes suits them best. 
Protect from bugs with covers of millinet. If thi» 
be too much trouble, put in several successive 
plantings of seed in the hill for the bugs to feed on 
until the vines have outgrown the insects, then 
thin to three or four good plants. 
Currants should have been pruned ere this. If 
neglected, cut out the old knotty wood, reserving 
the newest and plumpest shoots. Fork in a dress¬ 
ing of compost among the roots. Plant cuttings 
and rooted bushes of the Red and White Dutch, or 
Cherry, Versailles, and White Grape varieties,/, m. 
Draining improves most soils. Read article on 
page 105, and those in previous Numbers. 
