133 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST 
Blackberries—It is somewhat late for transplant¬ 
ing in this latitude, yet with care they may be made 
to live. Cut down the cane to within six inches of 
the roots before transplanting. Stake up old canes 
or train them to trellises. 
Borecole and Broccoli—Sow, ff, m, as directed 
last month. Transplant from hot-bed,/, m. 
Cabbage and Cauliflower—Sow,/, in, for late use, 
in rich mellow ground. Plant out,,/, m, any remain¬ 
ing in hot-beds or cold frames. A coop of young 
chickens near the cabbage patch is a better protec¬ 
tion from the garden flea and other insects, than the 
applications of soot, ashes, etc., often recommend¬ 
ed. It may be necessary to examine about the roots 
for the cut worm. Hoe former plantings frequent¬ 
ly, in the morning when the dew is on. 
Carrots and Parsneps for late use may still be 
planted, ./—last month was the appropriate season. 
Celery—Sow,/', m, for late use, according to di¬ 
rections given last month, page 115, which see. 
Cistern—For large gardens, a capacious cistern to 
be filled from the roofs of adjacent buildings, is a 
great convenience. During drouth, a hose from 
a hydropult or garden engine may be introduced, 
and a thorough watering be given with little trouble. 
Cold Frames—Remove any remaining plants, ff, m, 
and store the frames for another season. An occa¬ 
sional coat of paint and care in handling, will pre¬ 
serve them many years. 
Corn—Plant small plots of sweet varieties,/, m , l , 
at intervals of a week or ten days, to ripen for suc¬ 
cession. For garden culture, where the ground is 
well enriched, it will succeed in drills 2X feet apart, 
the stalks standing eight inches distant in the row. 
Cucumbers—Transplant those started in the house 
as directed last month,/, m. Plant seeds,./, m, for 
Summer use, and, l , for pickling. Sprinkling with 
a solut ion of hen manure will aid in keeping off in¬ 
sects, and will forward the growth of the plants. 
Our practice in addition to this, is to make large 
hills and put in, at intervals of a few days, several 
rows of seed around the first planting, to attract 
insects which may escape other preventives. Super¬ 
fluous plants are removed when the danger is over. 
Cm-rants—Pljnt, ff, if not already completed. It 
is better done before the growth has started. Drench 
rreely with soap suds to repel aphides and other in¬ 
sects. Keep the surface around them loose and free 
from grass and weeds. 
Drills for seeds are best made with a straight nar¬ 
row edged board, drawn back and forth until the 
proper depth is reached. This method secures uni¬ 
formity, and prevents lumps about the seed. 
Egg Plants—Transplant from the hot-bed into 
ground well enriched with horse manure, when 
the weather is sufficiently warm and settled. 
Fruit Trees—For a good selection of dwarf apples 
and pears, see page 145. The main fruit yard should 
be separate from the kitchen garden. 
Grapes—Set new vines,/—last month was pre¬ 
ferable. Secure them with lead wire, bast, or soft 
cotton cord to stakes and trellises. Watch against 
insects, which may attack the young buds. 
Herbs—Set any remaining roots, on borders, ff. 
lloe frequently about early vegetables to destroy 
weeds, and keep the surface porous. Keep all the 
paths clean. A push hoe is a good implement for 
this purpose. The double coulter scuffle hoe, made 
with an opening to pass on each side of rows of 
young plants, is an excellent tool. 
Uot-Bcds—Remove all plants from them,/, m, 
and put away sashes and frames for another season. 
Insects will soon come swarming from their 
Winter retreats—many are already on the alert. 
Hen manure is offensive to many species. It should 
be mixed with plenty of soil before applying near 
seed. A solution of it sprinkled upon vines, etc., 
will be beneficial. A decoction of quassia chips is 
recommended by some gardeners. Covering with 
millinet frames, is almost a certain preventive. 
Kohl Rabi—Sow,/ - , m, and cultivate like cabbage, 
except that the plants may be placed nearer to¬ 
gether, say in rows two feet apart, and one foot dis¬ 
tant in the row. 
Lettuce—Transplant from hot-beds, ff. Sow, ff, 
and every two weeks for succession, among hills 
of vines, and other unoccupied corners. Thin cab¬ 
bage varieties to nine or ten inches apart. 
Manure—A supply for a large garden may be ob¬ 
tained by saving sink and chamber slops, and using 
the contents of the privy. Offensive substances are 
made inodorous by mixing with them plenty of 
muck, or by sprinkling liberally with sulphate of 
lime (plaster of Paris.) Frequent sprinkling with 
liquid manure in small quantities, is preferable to 
occasional soakings. 
Melons—Plant, m, l, as directed for cucumbers. 
Mushrooms—Make beds for Summer use, /, m. 
Nasturtiums—Sow, ff, m, where they will be 
shaded from the midday sun. They thrive best 
with plenty of moisture. 
Okra—Sow, / m, in very rich soil, in shallow drills, 
3 feet apart, and thin to a foot distant in the row. 
Onions may still be sown,,/, for late use. This 
crop does well upon the same ground year after 
year, if the soil be kept rich. A liberal dressing 
of ashes is beneficial. 
Peas—Sow,/, m, l, for a succession. The Cham¬ 
pion of England variety is generally preferred for 
the main crop—it ripens late, and is therefore com¬ 
paratively free from the weevil. For a convenient 
method of supporting peas, see page 135. 
Peppers—Plant out from the hot-bed, /, m, 
eighteen inches apart, in rows two feet distant. 
Potatoes—Plant, ff, if not completed. Hoe for¬ 
mer plantings, and top-dress with ashes and plaster. 
Pumpkins—Plant, ff, ni, in hills eight feet apart, 
and at a distance from melons or squashes. Where 
different varieties of such vines are cultivated in the 
same enclosure, it is a good arrangement, to sur¬ 
round each plot with several rows of peas, which 
will partially protect them from mixing. Read 
“Impure Squash Seed,” page 149. 
Radishes—Continue to sow in vacant spaces, 
among vines, etc.,/, m, l, for a succession. 
Raspberries—Stake up and trim off, if not already 
done, as directed last month. Keep the ground en¬ 
riched by forking in well decomposed manure. 
Rhubarb—Set roots or sow seed, ff, if not sup¬ 
plied. Hoe out all grass and weeds, and keep the 
surface loose. Manure heavily around the plants. 
Sage, Savory, etc.—Sow, ff, rn. Transplant last 
year’s sowing. 
Salsafy—Sow, ff, m, on soil deeply worked, the same 
as for carrots. 
Seeds—Test before sowing largely. Set out all 
remaining roots or plants intended to furnish seeds 
next year. Different varieties of the same species, 
as cabbages, turnips, etc., of various sorts, should 
be widely separated, to keep the seed pure. 
Squashes—Plant, /, m, as directed for cucumbers 
and pumpkins. 
Strawberries—Make new beds, ff, m, if not done 
in April, which is the best month in the year for 
the work in this latitude. For choice varieties, see 
last month’s Calendar. Culture in hills is gaining 
favor—see page 149. Keep the surface free from 
weeds; water, if the weather be dry. A liberal 
supply of ashes worked into the bed, will be bene¬ 
ficial. Mulch with saw-dust or cut straw, before 
blossoming commences, to keep the ground moist, 
and preserve the fruit from contact with the earth. 
Sweet Potatoes—Plant out, l, or when the weather 
is settled warm, in deep, well pulverized soil, en¬ 
riched with stable manure. Set plants from fifteen 
to eighteen inches apart, in high ridges, about three 
and a half feet from center to center, so low that 
the stems of the lower loaves will be covered; they 
will then sprout again, if cut off by frost or worms. 
If the plants are very low, set them obliquely, so 
that the roots will not be too far below the surface. 
Tomatoes—Transplant from the hot-bed, ff, m, 
to a well enriched border, with a southern exposure, 
if possible. A sandy soil is favorable. In setting 
the plants, place them a little deeper than they 
originally Stood—they will throw out fibrous roots 
[May, 
from the stem. Set the plants four feet apart each 
way, and prepare a framework of thin strips to 
support the vines. 
Transplanting—Read article on page 149. 
Turnips—Hoe, weed, and thin those sown previ¬ 
ously. Sow for Summer use, /, m. Next month, 
or the following, will be early enough for the Win¬ 
ter stock. 
Weeds—Raise them from the ground on the hoe, 
invert them carefully, and repeat the operation as 
often as they appear. 
Winter Cherry (Physalis)—Plant out, /, m, the 
same as tomatoes, setting them nearer together, 
say two, to two and a half feet distant. Seed may 
still be sown, ff, m. 
Flower Garden and Fawn. 
If any of the old beds are to be re-arranged, and 
the shrubbery and perennial plants transplanted, let 
it be done at once. In transplanting, disturb the 
roots as little as possible, or they will show a weak 
bloom the first season. Some of the older plants 
may require dividing, having become too large. 
The frames, pits, houses and conservatories can 
now be emptied of all but tender plants. Most of 
them will do best, turned from the pots into the 
open border. Intersperse them among the bulbs, 
annuals and late blooming perennials, where they 
will make an immediate show, and keep up a good 
succession. 
Amaryllis, one of the finest Autumn blooming 
bulbs, should be set in a warm border,/, m. 
Annuals—Sow, ff, m, as noticed in the calendar of 
last month. It is essential that a good variety of 
fine blooming annuals should now be putin, to keep 
up a show of flowers late in the season, after most 
of the perennials have cast their blossoms. Those 
sown in the houses to forward their growth, may 
now be transplanted to the open ground. 
Bedding plants are now in demand, especially the 
verbenas, petunias, salvias, and heliotropes. The 
dicentra, lavatera, daisy, mignonette, etc., answer 
well for bedding. As a rule, it is better to set each 
variety by itself, than to mix them promiscuously. 
Biennials and perennials should be arranged, ff, 
as they are already beginning to grow. Do not 
transplant them too often. They are kept weak 
by transplanting nearly every Spring. Where it is 
desirable to increase the stock, remove a portion 
from one side, and leave the remainder undisturbed. 
See articles on page 146. 
Box Edging—Unless already done, set,/ - , m. Clip 
old box, and replenish any weak places. 
Bulbs—The earliest blooming are already fading, 
but there should still be a fine show of crown im¬ 
perials, tulips, and a few hyacinths. Keep well sup¬ 
ported, and stretch a muslin awning over the choice- 
est, to lengthen the period of bloom, removing it at 
night and during cloudy weather. Set Autumn 
blooming varieties, as amaryllis, gladiolus, tu¬ 
berose, lilies of various kinds, etc. 
Carnations and Pinks from the forcing apart¬ 
ments may now be set out already in bloom. Tio 
to neat stakes. Divide roots and separate last year’s 
layers to form new plants. They are desirable flow¬ 
ers, either for massing or planting singly. 
Cypress Vine, Morning Glory, and other annual 
Climbers—Sow,/', m, and train upon strings around 
a central pole as shown on page 339, Vol. 17. Un¬ 
sightly buildings, rough fences, etc., can be almost 
hidden beneath a mass of bloom, when covered with 
these climbers. Screens or lattice work may also 
have these vines running over them. Cypress vine 
seeds vegetate much more freely when 6oaked in 
tepid water for 12 hours before sowing. 
Dahlias—Plant, m, l. Sprout them in boxes of earth, 
or by burying in a warm border previous to planting. 
Dicentra Spectabilis—Plant and treat as the pce- 
ony, which it somewhat resembles in habit of 
growth. It is easily propagated by dividing the 
roots. Set, ff, and a partial bloom may be expected 
the present season. 
Evergreens—Plant from the 10th to the 20th, jus* 
