1861.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
163 
winds. In prairie countries it may need a thick belt 
of both evergreen and deciduous trees, to break the 
winds. Native evergreens can be taken from the 
open grounds, where nursery grown trees can not 
be had. Directions for pruning evergreens will be 
found under “ Flower Garden and Lawn.” See ar¬ 
ticle on evergreens, on page 178. 
Grafts set this year, should now be examined. 
Loosen any strings cutting into the bark, replace 
clay or wax where needed; and rub off superfluous 
shoots, or suckers. 
Buddiug is better done next month in this lati¬ 
tude ; at the South it may be commenced, ll. Re¬ 
move suckers from trees budded last year, and keep 
the growing buds tied up, to prevent their being 
broken off by their own weight, or by the wind. 
Hoeing—The plow, horse-hoe, or cultivator,- will 
almost entirely do away with work by hand in the 
nursery row and the orchard. Avoid barking the 
trunks of the trees by passing too closely with the 
plow. Use the hand hoe to remove grass and weeds 
immediately about the trees. 
Layering and Inarching may begin, ll. Use new 
growth for layers, and old wood for Inarching. 
Insects—Allow no caterpillars to remain entrench¬ 
ed in the trees. Pull their houses down early in the 
morning, or in the evening, while the occupants 
are at home. Especially watch for the curculio, as 
they begin their ravages almost as soon as the plums 
set. Dust trees with lime, syringe with oil soap, or 
jar the insects upon a sheet, spread under the trees. 
A combined effort at catching the “ bugs,” would 
soon depopulate a neighborhood. Give the chick¬ 
ens a range under both plum and cherry trees. 
Few insects will escape to trouble fruit. Cultivate 
the friendship of birds, allowing no marauding 
sportsman to fire a gun upon your premises. Keep 
the grass and weeds down about the trunks of 
young trees, else the borer moth will lay her eggs 
there. A newspaper tied around the tree, close to 
the ground, and for one foot or more above, will 
usually save the trees. If fearful that eggs are al¬ 
ready there, wash the body with strong soap suds, 
or potash and water. The same wash will remove 
scale or “ lice,” which are now quite small, and 
easily rubbed off. 
Mulching is beneficial on open soils, especially for 
newly planted trees, and in a drouth. Cover the 
whole ground, or as far as the roots spread, with 
straw, tan bark, saw-dust, or coarse manure. This 
is better than watering. Evergreens, especially, 
will be benefited by mulching. 
Seed-Beds should receive careful attention. Re¬ 
move weeds, and loosen the soil, thin or transplant 
where needed, and shade evergreens from hot sun. 
Water newly planted trees, if very dry, and mulch, 
to retain the moisture and prevent the surface from 
crusting. Occasional thorough watering is better 
than frequent sprinkling. 
Weeds will not be allowed a place in either 
well cultivated nursery or orchard. 
Kitchen and Fruit Garden. 
The rapid growth induced by the favoring weather 
usually experienced this month, may be yet more 
hastened by proper cultivation. Quick growth of 
all garden vegetables is particularly desirable, as the 
flavor is in most cases greatly superior to that of 
tardy plants. Keep down the weeds ; keep the soil 
loose—these are the golden rules of gardening. 
While the dew is on in the morning, is the most fa¬ 
vorable time for hoeing, excepting beans, and plants 
whose tender leaves would be injured by dirt ad¬ 
hering to them. 
Asparagus—Discontinue cutting from the bed, m, 
where the gathering began early. Keep down all 
weeds, and allow the plants to grow—the feathery 
stalks will be an ornament to the garden. 
Beans—Plant early varieties in vacant spots, ff. 
Train running sorts to open trellises^ which allow 
better exposure to the sun, than when the vines 
twine around poles. 
Beets—Sow, m, l, for Fall and Winter use. If the 
ground becomes crusted after sowing, water the 
rows at night, to allow the young plants to push 
their way through. Keep well hoed, and thin the 
plants early to eight inches apart. 
Blackberries and Raspberries—Keep all canes, in¬ 
cluding new growth, properly trained to stakes or 
trellises. Allow only those shoots to remain, which 
are wanted for next year’s bearing, except they are 
wanted to make new plots. If specimens of extra 
large fruit are desired, thin the clusters and ber¬ 
ries, leaving only one or two clusters in a bunch. 
Borecole, Broccoli, Brussels Sprouts, Kale, etc.— 
Transplant for late use,/, m. 
Cabbage and Cauliflower—Sow seed,/ - , for latest 
transplanting. Set out, /, m, for Autumn, and, ll, 
for Winter use. Hoe often, it can scarcely be done 
too frequently. Watch for insects and destroy them. 
Carrots—Follow directions given under “Farm.” 
Celery—Prepare trenches—one foot wide, two 
feet deep, and four feet apart. Put in six inches of 
well rotted manure, and six inches of soil ; mix 
thoroughly, and set the young plants, m, l. A clear, 
cool day is best. Water the plants before trans¬ 
planting, and preserve the roots as unbroken as 
possible. Shade the trenches for a day or two, to 
keep from wilting, and water if very dry, applying 
it-at evening. 
Corn—Plant Stowell’s Evergreen, or other sweet 
varieties,/, m, l, to keep up a succession for late 
use. Keep well hoed and free from weeds. 
Cucumbers, Melons, and Squashes—Put in cu¬ 
cumbers for pickles, m, l. Occasional watering the 
vines with liquid manure, made by mixing fresh 
cow droppings, or hen manure with water, will re¬ 
pel insects, and rapidly forward the growth. The 
striped bugs may be easily taken early in the morn¬ 
ing, while the dew is on, and destroyed. Examine 
the under side of the squash leaves for eggs of the 
squash bug. Hundreds may be destroyed before 
hatching. Leaves of the Ailantus tree are offensive 
to some insects; they must be replaced as often 
as dry. 
Currants—Keep the bushes trained to good form 
by pinching off straggling shoots as they appear: 
this will save the necessity of further pruning, ex¬ 
cept to remove dead wood. Keep the ground 
around them loose, and free from weeds. Water 
the bushes with soap suds, and other wash from 
tlic house. Make jelly from the fruit, before it is 
dead ripe; for wine it is better fully matured. 
Egg Plants—Transplant, ff, for general crop, and, 
m, for late use. Give them a warm situation, and 
loose, rich soil. Read article on page 180. 
Fruit Trees—Keep dwarf pears and other fruit 
trees trained to good shape, by pinching out super¬ 
fluous shoots as they appear. Remove all but one 
or two specimens from trees transplanted this year, 
or last Fall. If cherries can not be marketed, pre¬ 
serve them in bottles, or remove pits and dry them. 
Gooseberries—Cultivate and treat as directed for 
currants. Keep the surface of the ground moist by 
mulching. If large specimens of fruit are desired, 
leave a single berry on a shoot, and support it in a 
small bag of millinet tied to the branch. 
Grapes—Proper care in pinching out unneces¬ 
sary shoots, and shortening in too rampant growth, 
will obviate the necessity for severe cutting in the 
Fall, and the strength of the vine will be retained in 
the remaining canes. Leave only one bunch of fruit 
on a spur. Continue to watch against insects. 
Showering with whale oil soap, or other solutions, 
from the syringe or hydropult, will dislodge many. 
Others must be removed by hand. 
Insects of some species infest and injure almost 
every variety of garden produce ; they can be kept 
in subjection only by constant watchfulness. A 
crop of young chickens will do valuable service in 
exterminating them. 
Lettuce—Sow in vacant corners at intervals of a 
week, to keep up a succession. Give plenty of 
room for Cabbage v rieties to head. Hoe after the 
dew is off, and avoii. throwing dirt upon the leaves. 
Onions—Keep the plot entirely free from weeds, 
and the surface loose. Thin to four inches in the 
row. A dressing of salt and ashes is recommended 
to expel the maggot of the onion fly. 
Parsneps and Salsafy—Hoe and thin,/; the same 
as for beets and carrots. 
Peas—Plant for general crop, ff. Set bushes or 
trellises of stakes and twine for their support, at 
the time of planting. 
Paths and Borders should be kept free from 
weeds, and leveled to proper shape. Keep the 
edges of beds properly squared, and let neatness be 
everywhere observed. 
Potatoes may still be planted, ff. Cultivate as di¬ 
rected under “ Farm.” 
Radishes—Keep up a supply by scattering seed* 
at intervals in unoccupied spaces, between rows <*f 
young plauts, hills of com, melons, etc. Leave the 
best and earliest for seed. 
Rhubarb—While the yield is abundant, cut and 
and dry for Winter use ; or stew them as for the 
table, and preserve in bottles. The season will be 
prolonged by removing the seed stalks. 
Spinach—Sow, /, in, for continued supply. It 
may take the place of early lettuce, radishes, etc. 
Strawberries—Remove all grass and weeds, and 
mulch the ground with tan bark or short straw, be¬ 
fore picking commences. Keep the beds well 
watered while fruit is forming, if there be drouth. 
Tomatoes—Transplant /, m, for late use. Sup¬ 
port growing vines with brush or frames of lath. 
Shorten in the branches, to prevent rank bushy 
growth. Keep well hoed. 
Transplant to fill vacant spots, or replace weak 
plants. It can be successfully done at any time 
while plants are young, provided directions given 
in last number be observed. 
Turnips—Sow, ff, m, for Summer and Autumn 
use. Sprinkle the young plants with a decoction 
of quassia, to drive away insects. Thin early, and 
hoe often. 
Water is best applied to plants in the evening, or 
very early in the morning. Give as may be needed, 
particularly to plants lately set out. 
Weeds are easiest destroyed when they first ap¬ 
pear. Give them no quarter. 
Winter Cherry—Sow, ff, if not done. Transplant 
from former sowings; set the plants two feet a*''. lt , 
in good soil. 
Flower Garden and Fawn, 
June is emphatically a month of roses, and the 
common garden, hybrid perpetual, moss, monthly, 
climbing, tea and China sorts, vie with each other 
in form of flower, sweetness of perfume, or delicacy 
of coloring, and he who has a good collection is 
now rejoicing in the treasure. 
Besides the roses, there are many other pleasing 
objects connected with the garden and lawn, es¬ 
pecially if one has had a conservatory, green-house, 
or even hot-bed to draw from. The masses of bed¬ 
ding plants nearly hide the ground with their 
bloom, while single specimens of various sorts, 
here and there, break the monotony and relieve the 
eye. The plants, with variegated foliage, are es¬ 
pecially interesting, and now that they are within 
the reach of large numbers, we commend the 
growing taste.for this class. 
This is a growing month, and weeds are rapidly 
coming to light. They would soon entirely over¬ 
run the delicate flowers, if left unchecked. With 
hoe, rake, and weeding knife, the gardener must 
commence and continue a war of extermination 
upon them. Nor is it sufficient to merely keep 
down weeds. The ground should be frequently 
stirred, or it will crust or bake upon the surface, 
shutting out air and dews from the roots, and turn¬ 
ing away the rain which should penetrate the soil. 
A fine-toothed rake is a good implement for light¬ 
ening the surface, and at the same time disturbing 
the weed seeds about sending up their shoots. Be¬ 
sides keeping down the weeds, there a-re many 
plants to be removed or thrown away; it is impos¬ 
sible to have healthy foliage and a fine bloom in 
crowded grounds. 
If any vacant space is left, it may still be sown 
