164 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
£ J UT7T5) 
with annuals and perennials. There is ample time 
for the latter to make sufficient growth for a free 
bloom the next season. The various bedding 
plants alluded to last month, may still be set out,/ - . 
Box Edgings may also be set, ff, in. Trim or shear 
old borders, m, l, on damp or cloudy days. Keep 
well hoed, and replace any unsightly or defective 
plants with those of thrifty growth. 
Bulbs—Lift, ll, those which have finished bloom¬ 
ing, if needing to be reset in the Fall. Dry them in 
the shade, and put in boxes or pots of dry earth, or 
lay in drawers, or wrap in papers, carefully labeling. 
Carnations and other Pinks—Keep well tied up 
while in bloom. By shading with a muslin screen 
during mid-day, the flowering season may be much 
prolonged. Layer, and make cuttings, /, m. 
Climbers of all kinds should be kept well secured 
to stakes or trellises. Those to be laid down in the 
Fall, should not be allowed to twine in such a way 
that they can not be easily removed. Such should 
also be kept from passing and repassing through 
the meshes of wire or slat lattice work. 
Dahlias bloom best in Autumn. We prefer keep¬ 
ing them back, and usually plant out some roots the 
latter part of June. Allow but one stalk to a root. 
Evergreens may well beset out, ff, in. Remove 
them with earth about the roots, when practicable, 
and water freely at the time of setting. Those set 
last month, will do better if watered during dry 
weather, and still better if well mulched. They 
may now be pruned with safety. 
Flower Stalks—Cut away as fast as they are out 
of bloom. They have an unsightly appearance 
when left in the llower border. They should give 
place to the later growing annuals. Remove also 
the withered flower stems. 
Grass Edgings, or Borders—The grass is nor 
growing rapidly, and needs frequent clipping, and 
an occasional trimming or paring at the edges, to 
p: event its extending into the beds or paths. Good 
sorts of one kind of grass are far preferable to box 
for edgings or borders. Grass with running roots 
is not desirable. 
Geraniums—Plant out, ff, any remaining in pots. 
They mass finely, either in distinct colors, or when 
mixed. 
travel Walks—Keep free from grass and weeds, 
raking and rolling frequently. Add fresh gravel to 
old paths. Hot water may some times be resorted 
to, to kill persistent grasses, when you have not 
time to use the hoe. If used it should not be al¬ 
lowed to run into the grass border while hot. 
Hedges—Cut from the top, m, 7, to thicken up the 
bottom. They may be cut to any desired form. 
House Plants—Green-house, hot-house, and parlor 
plants have nearly all been transferred to these 
grounds, some of them for summer blooming, 
others to attain a flowering size by the time they 
are returned to the houses in the Fall. Some have 
been planted out, while others are plunged in the 
earth, and should be lifted, pot aud all, and turned 
so as to separate any roots extending through the 
hole at the bottom. Pinch back freely, to form fine 
bushy plants. 
Insects are now providing for future broods. 
Forestall their operations by destroying the parent 
stock. Scatter caustic lime over ant'kills. 
Lawn—Keep the grass in a flue thick mat by cut - 
ting often—at least every fortnight. Do not allow 
grass or weeds to grow about the trunks of small 
trees, particularly those newly planted. A circle of 
from three to six feet in diameter, with the tree as a 
center, should be kept well hoed or raked over. 
Cut the turf smooth and even, in a true circle, and 
remove the earth around the edge for a few inches 
ill depth, rounding it slightly about the trunk. 
Tc make it still more ornamental, a few verbenas, 
petunias, salvias, or other flowering plants, may be 
sparsely ..planted upon the mound. They will in¬ 
jure the tree far less than the closely matted roots 
of different grasses. If the grass has a weak, un¬ 
healthy appearance, give a top-dressing of bone 
sawings, guano, or a sprinkling of liquid manure. 
Oranges, Lemons, Oleanders, and Myrtles—Plant 
out in the open borders, ff, m, or place out in their 
tubs. 
Potted Plants will need frequent waterings, un¬ 
less turned out into the border. Shield from high 
winds. 
Roses, as remarked above, are the pride of the 
garden in June. Prolong the flowering period by 
cutting back strong shoots as soon as the first 
bloom is over. Even June roses will frequently 
flower again with this treatment, while the perpet- 
uals are greatly benefited by it. 
Rose bugs and slugs will be troublesome unless 
kept in check. Dust freely with lime, or syringe 
with whale-oil soap. Repeat the application until 
all arc destroyed. 
Transplanting many of the early sown flowers is 
now in order. Select a cloudy day before a rain, if 
possible, and take up plenty of earth carefully 
with the roots, using the trowel, and the plant will 
receive very little check. If done in dry weather, 
water freely. The best plan is, to make a hole, 
and pour in a large amount of water. Set the plant 
into the water, and as it settles away, fill in earth. 
Let the last half inch be dry soil, which will prevent 
baking. 
Verbenas and Petunias now make a fine show if a 
good collection was put out last month. They may 
still be planted, ff. By pegging down the verbena, 
a large mass or mat can be formed from a single 
plant. 
Water trees and flowers recently transplanted, if 
the month prove dry. Nature’s own showers are 
best, however, and a good stirring of the soil to 
help draw moisture from below, and retain that 
which falls upon the surface, will usually answer 
all purposes, except for transplanted shrubs, trees, 
and flowers, or for newly turfed edgings. 
fl*rceia ami Ilot-IIotases. 
The principal occupants of these houses now 
grace the flower plots and borders, leaving very lit¬ 
tle to be attended to in-doors. Propagators still re¬ 
tain some of the tropical plants, and others which 
they are multiplying as fast as possible. CuttiDgs 
strike more readily inside, where moisture and shade 
are regulated at will. The remaining plants require 
an abundance of air, and should be watered fre¬ 
quently. It is now time to make provision for a 
stock of Winter blooming plants. Unless cuttings 
are put in soon, the plants will not have sufficient 
age and vigor to flower freely. A good supply of 
materials for potting soil should also be collected. 
Such compost or mixture is better after laying sev¬ 
eral months. 
Camellias do quite as well in the open border, to 
which they may be carried, ff. If retained on the 
shelves in the house, water and syringe often. 
Watch for and check the approach of insects. Cut 
back to a bushy well formed head. 
Cuttings of Chrysanthemums, Myrtles, Hydran¬ 
geas, Fuschias, Geraniums, etc., intended for bloom¬ 
ing next season, may be made and potted,/, m. 
Geraniums are in full flower, and should be wa¬ 
tered freely. Insert cuttings and make layers to in¬ 
crease the stock of desirable kinds. 
Grapes—The early houses will now be ripening 
their fruit, and the syringing overhead must be 
omitted. Some of the later crops need a further 
thinning, while others, with little forcing, are just 
setting fruit. Pinch back bearing shoots to three 
leaves, at most, beyond the bunches, and rub off 
superfluous shoots. Air freely; water as required. 
Layer and Inarch woody and other plants which 
do not root readily from cuttings. 
Potting—Many of the rapidly growing plants will 
now require more room, and should be transferred 
to pots of a larger size. Have a good supply of 
properly prepared potting soil at all times in readi¬ 
ness. Two parts leaf mold or well decomposed 
muck, one part garden loam, one part fine sand, and 
one part finely pulverized and well rotted manure, 
make a good soil for potted plants. 
Seedlings of sufficient size should be transplanted 
either to small pots or set in the open borders. 
Verbenas and Petunias—Make early preparation 
to increase the supply of young plants by layering 
and putting in cuttings for in-door blooming next 
Winter. 
Water—Give as may be wanted. A little may be 
necessary night and morning upon plants in small 
pots in a dry atmosphere. Examine after rains to 
see if drainage is perfect. 
Apiary in June. 
BY M. QUINBY. 
Bees increase rapidly in this month ; any stocks 
failing to do so, should at once be examined. If 
the cause be diseased brood, drive them out into an 
empty hive, to commence anew. If from want of 
a queen—unless the colony remains pretty strong, 
which is hardly likely—it is best to drive out the 
bees, and unite them with some othei stock. Save 
the hive and contents for a new swarm. Fumigate 
the combs, to destroy the worms that will be at 
work now. It will have no bad effect on the bees. 
I have used a hive for a new swarm within twenty- 
four hours after smoking it, with good results. If 
a queenless stock has bees enough to defend it from 
the moth worm, till you get a small swarm—second 
or third—containing a queen, the latter may be in¬ 
troduced with the bees already there; sprinkling 
the whole with sweetened water, or introducing a 
little tobacco smoke, to prevent quarreling. They 
usually unite peaceably, but not always. 
Bees will swarm more, proportionally, in small 
apiaries, than in large ones. It is quite common to 
average two or three from a stock. If the increase 
of stocks is a greater object than surplus honey, 
small swarms maybe kept separate. When surplus 
honey is the leading object, the after swarms should 
be united, until powerful colonies are obtained. 
The season must be extraordinary, when stocks can 
be greatly multiplied, with a great yield of surplus 
at the same time. The system of no colonies except 
strong ones, is much the safest, as in seasons of 
even less yield than usual, such provide sufficient 
winter stores, and often surplus. On the other 
hand, small colonies, without a good yield of honey, 
seldom get winter stores. In the swarming season 
it is impossible to tell what the last of the season 
will be, and it is bad economy to keep a great num¬ 
ber of small swarms, without being prepared to feed 
them up to the proper condition, or to sacrifice 
them. The inexperienced would do better to 
take the safest path. 
The first issue from a hive is usually large enough 
for a good colony; the second half as large, the 
third a quarter; consequently two of the second, 
and four of the third will be needed together, to 
make a swarm equal to the first. The time of is¬ 
suing, whether the first or last of the month, should 
have some influence in governing the size of the 
swarm; as a second swarm the first of the month, 
would be about equal in value at the end of the 
season, with a first swarm issuing a month later. 
Third swarms should not be hived alone—unless in 
some rare cases—but should be either joined with 
some other, or returned to the parent stock. 
Swarms that issue on one day, may be united with 
little risk of quarreling. One day intervening will 
increase the liability, and two still more, and three 
or four days apart is as long a time as it would be 
likely to answer for most bee keepers to undertake 
uniting them. When they do not agree, a good 
sprinkling with sugar water will have a pacifying 
effect; tobacco smoke blown among them, will 
answer in most cases. 
To return a swarm to the old stock, and have but 
little trouble with it afterward, it is best hive it 
first, and carry near the old stand, an’d let it remain 
till the next morning, when all the queens but one 
will usually be destroyed, as well as the supernumer¬ 
aries in the parent hive. Shake out the swarm, and 
look out and secure the queen, then put a few bees 
at the entrance, with something on whieh the 
rest may creep there, and they will all readily enter. 
Two first swarms, when hived together, are in 
value about two-thirds of what they would be if 
