AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
973 
1SG1.] 
into the sides ot the sash frames near the top. 
These catch upon the staples or spikes driven 
along the sides of the rafters. To lower the 
sash, it is then only necessary to raise it up 
and slide it down as far as needed, and let its 
hooks catch upon the staples or spikes at any 
point on the rafters that may be desired. 
The Inside Arrangement is shown in fig. 
1. Grapes are trained up the south or low wall, 
and then along under the glass. Against the 
high north wall may be trained grapes, or bet¬ 
ter, apricots, peaches, or other fruit trees. Shelves 
for potted plants—early beans, strawberries, cu¬ 
cumbers, etc.—may be arranged along the up¬ 
per part of this wall. A plank walk , ( w ,) should 
run through the center or nearer the north wall. 
This should be of narrow plank or strong boards 
laid i or 4 inch apart, and raised a few inches 
above the soil—on short cross ties or blocks of 
scantling or round poles—so as to 'allow a free 
circulation of air and light under and between 
the planks. For Winter or Spring use, liot-beds, 
(ft,) indicated by the dotted line, may be placed 
within the grapery, and along its whole length 
by simply driving down stakes and setting boards 
on edge for the sides, or by nailing boards to¬ 
gether. These are to be filled with fermenting 
manure in the usual manner; they afford room 
for the early starting of a full supply of vegeta¬ 
bles, etc. They should be kept far enough from 
the south wall not to interfere with the grape 
vines. As soon as they can be dispensed with, 
the contents are to be removed, or dug into the 
soil. The space used by the liot-beds may be 
taken for potted plants in Autumn and Winter. 
The Ground Work or Soil. —We have pur¬ 
posely begun to build our house at the top, in 
order to first show the reader that the visi¬ 
ble structure, with its frame-work, glass work, 
etc., is only a simple matter after all. Let us 
now begin at the beginning, viz., the prepara¬ 
tion of the soil. In fig. 1, we have provided 
for what is technically called the “ Border," 
(that is the soil in which the plants grow) entire¬ 
ly within the building. Many persons make the 
building narrower, and place the main border 
along the outside of the south wall, and bring 
the vines in through openings in the wall, near 
the ground. We think it preferable to keep the 
border on the inside, as we then have it under 
better control for preserving a more uniform 
temperature for both roots and branches. With 
the border on the outside, the roots are kept 
much colder than the foliage within, especially 
during Winter and Spring, which is inj urious. 
B, represents the border or soil for the roots 
of vines and plants. This should be prepared 
at least three feet deep, and be provided with 
good drainage (D) at the bottom, having a free 
outlet to carry off water. The drain may be 
made of loose stones, broken bricks, or oyster 
shells, laid in 8 to 12 inches in depth, or even 
more, covering them with inverted sods or wood 
shavings. For the soil above (A,) fill in a mix¬ 
ture of first-rate surface soil largely mixed with 
sods, rotten manure, and broken or ground 
bones. The main thing is to secure a good, sub¬ 
stantial, but friable soil, containing abundance 
of decaying vegetable matter, just such as is fur¬ 
nished by rotting sods and leaves, with animal 
manure enough to give the plants a start at first, 
and bones to give steady nutriment by their 
gradual decay. 
---»*-—-* -- 
Growing Grapes for Forcing. —At a recent 
meeting of the Brooklyn Horticultural Associa¬ 
tion, Mr. George Hamlyn, stated that he grows 
all his grapes for forcing, in large pots. He said 
that he lias them in full bearing in fifteen months 
from the cutting, and as soon as the fruit is 
gathered, he throws them away and starts new 
ones in the same pots. By keeping up a succes¬ 
sion, he always has plenty of fruit, and in 
much less time than by the ordinary method. 
The advantages in pot culture of grapes are 
readily seen, and this method is growing in fa¬ 
vor ; but we can not perceive the economy of 
throwing away plants after one fruiting. By 
proper pruning the vine may be kept in bearing 
year after year, and still, if necessary, be con¬ 
fined to a limited space. 
Another Fruit Gatherer. 
Mr. Calvin Hatch, of Hartford Co., Conn., 
writes that he first used the fruit picker de¬ 
scribed on page 209, July Agriculturist, but found 
that from the position of some limbs there was 
often danger of breaking them, if the fruit were 
always pulled off. To remedy this, he constructed 
the picker with a narrow space at each end, so that 
the fruit can be either pulled or pushed off. lie 
has used one of this form during ten years and 
likes it much. It has also taken several premi¬ 
ums. Being very simple and unpatented any 
person can construct one. The rim can be made 
of strong wire, or hoop iron, with a canvas or 
other bag suspended to catch the fruit. 
---—pg3-Q-Er*i.i -»—c»-— 
Galvanism for Slugs and Snails. 
A writer in the London Gardener’s Chronicle, 
thus describes a galvanic circle which he used 
around choice plants, as a preventive against 
slugs and snails. Procure a fiat ring of zinc, 
large enough to encircle the plant; make a slit 
in the ring after the manner of a key ring, so 
that it can. be put around the stem of the plant, 
and then rest upon the ground. Now twist a 
copper wire into a ring, very nearly of the 
same circumference as the flat zinc ring, and 
putting it round the plant, let it rest upon the 
zinc. No slug or snail will cross that magic cir¬ 
cle ; they can drag their slimy way across the 
zinc well enough, but the moment they come 
in contact with the copper and zinc at the same 
time, they will receive a galvanic shock, and re¬ 
coil from the barrier. In the above illustration, 
z is the zinc, and c the copper wire. The bro¬ 
ken line on the left shows the slit in the zinc. * 
[The above, if rightly arranged, may answer 
as a pretty scientific plaything, and as such we 
let it pass. The “ slimy slugs and snails ” chief¬ 
ly trouble us in the strawberry patch; and a 
nice time we should have of it, if we undertook to 
double ring each stalk or hill, and to keep boys 
enough around to hold up the pendant leaves, 
and the runners, so that the aforesaid “slimy 
slugs and snails” should not climb them.— Pub. 
A Hint on Striking Cuttings. 
Messrs. Dailledouze and Zeller, of Queens Co., 
N. Y., who are among the most successful rose 
growers in this country, propagate from cuttings 
in the following manner. For hardy out-door 
roses, they take cuttings in the Fall, of the pres¬ 
ent year’s growth, insert them in ordinary good 
soil, in a bed which can be covered by a sash, 
and leave them until Spring. Most of them will 
be rooted and ready to plant out as soon as the 
ground is suitable. For pot roses in green¬ 
houses, cuttings are made in the Spring, and 
put in sand in the green-liouse, where they grow 
very easily. All plants, particularly all hardy 
varieties, if taken up in the Fall and potted, and 
kept in the green-house until Spring, will yield 
cuttings which will root much more readily than 
those taken from plants kept in the open air. 
The tree pceony, and many other plants which 
are propagated from cuttings with difficulty, 
can be grown in this way. 
Cultivation of Raspberries. 
From the uncertainties attending the culture 
of any one kind of fruit, it is desirable for the 
farmer and gardener to have as large a variety 
in his grounds as possible. The smaller fruits, 
such as strawberries, raspberries and currants, 
seem to be among the most reliable. With a lit¬ 
tle care, the raspberry may uniformly be depend¬ 
ed on to yield a crop every year. It comes at 
a season when other fruit is scarce; it takes up 
but little room in a garden; it is only light la¬ 
bor to gather the berries; the market profits are 
large; and, for one’s own table, the fruit is 
healthful, delicious, and every way desirable. 
The raspberry will grow on almost any 
ground, but prefers a deep, rich, and rather 
moist soil. Some market-gardeners prefer, when 
they can get it, a reclaimed swamp, well drained, 
for growing these berries on a large scale. The 
soil is deep, rich, rather moist, and requires 
no manure, for many years. The raspberry 
should not be planted in a very dry spot, or 
immediately under the reflected light and heat 
of a wall or high fence. If the soil is not nat¬ 
urally deep and fertile, cultivation should make 
it so. These plants have two sorts of roots, 
the one going down to a considerable depth in 
search of moisture, the other running horizon¬ 
tally near the surface. The ground should be 
prepared so as to unite both of these require¬ 
ments. If it is not, the canes will make only a 
moderate growth, the fruit will be smaller, and 
much of it will dry up before it is fully ripe. 
The fruit of the garden raspberry should differ 
from the wild, in size as well as in quality, and 
this can be secured by generous cultivation. 
In addition to trenching of the ground, old ma¬ 
nure should be applied and well worked in. 
Some of the finest raspberries we ever saw, 
were grown on the North and East sides of build¬ 
ings, where they had partial shade. And every 
berry hunting child knows that the largest wild 
fruit is found on the outskirts of forests, or be¬ 
hind old fences and stumps. Where a position 
in the garden a little shaded can be had, (though 
not directly under the drip of trees,) we should 
advise to use it, and all the more because such 
positions are not desirable for the ordinary 
plants of a garden. Experiments have been 
tried at irrigating the ground during the fruiting 
