AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
806 
tills point to bring these dormant eyes to life. 
In passing the knife into the wood over the eye, 
it should be passed partly around the tree so as to 
form a slit or gash over the eye from a half inch 
to an inch long, according to the size of the tree; 
and be sure that you pass it through the inner 
bark and into the wood... .The result w r as very 
satisfactory.”- If this practice will generally 
result satisfactorily, it will be of great value to 
the orchardist and vine-grow r er. 
For the American Agriculturist. 
Disease in Apple Trees. 
BY A WESTERN NURSERYMAN. 
I wish to contribute for the benefit of West¬ 
ern fruit growers, a few hints upon the cultiva¬ 
tion of the apple tree, and especially wdth re¬ 
gard to a disease in the roots of the tree. The 
first symptoms are a check in the growth, and 
drying up of a few of the leaves about the fruit 
spurs. These are all that show themselves the 
first year. The next season the tree puts out its 
leaves fresh and fine, and, if large enough to 
bear, will blossom abundantly, and set a large 
crop of fruit. But the fruit will early sliow T pre¬ 
mature ripeness, and the leaves will begin to 
assume a pale, unhealthy looking color in June. 
Now for the cause and remedy. Remove the 
earth from the collar of the tree so as to expose 
the main roots, when the bark, about three 
inches below the surface, will be found brown 
and spongy. Streaks of healthy bark will often 
be seen running down the roots, alternating with 
the unhealthy portions. To reinvigorate the 
tree, cut away any decayed portion of the roots, 
removing the dead bark from sound portions. 
Take half a pint of soft soap and pour it on and 
around the dead wood, and return the earth 
about the roots, and cut the branches of the tree 
back Avith an unsparing hand. The tree may 
not appear healthy until the next Spring, when 
it will usually come out all right, and the new 
bark and wood will begin to rod over the dead 
portions of the roots, or the wounds made in 
their removal. The healing process is the same 
as above ground, only more rapid at the root. 
I find soap, botli under and above ground, 
very beneficial to the apple, pear, plum, cherry, 
peach and quince. Rub the trunks once or 
tAvicc a year with soap, or xvasli them with 
strong soap suds, using care not to get it upon 
tne leaves, and the trees will be greatly benefited. 
Wm. M. Jeffrey. 
Oak Hill Nurseries , III. 
Borers Caught “ Happing.” 
To the Editor of the American Agriculturist„ 
My apple trees Avere badly injured by the 
borer, and further damaged by using strong 
potash lye upon them. Last Spring I cut out 
Avliat borers I could find, and encircled the trees 
loosely Avith roofing paper dipped in coal tar. 
Early in July I Avas surprised by seeing a 
small round hole through one of my protectors; 
but I concluded that the animal had escaped, 
and that it Avas a good riddance as I believed 
he Avould not return to so odorous a home. 
. About the 20th of August I removed the cov¬ 
ering and examined my trees, Avhen I found my 
enemy had built himself a snug nest between the 
paper and the lark of the tree , the material of the 
nest being firmly attached to each. From some 
single trees I took as many as thirty of these de¬ 
stroyers, Avmch I dissected, or rather bi-sected 
with my pruning-knife. After this operation I 
poured on a very little spirit gas, and I believe I 
shall not soon be troubled again with borers. I 
found tAvoof the same unwelcome visitors upon 
my standard pear trees set out last Spring. 
Fairfield Co., Conn. C. W. BOND. 
Remarks.—O ur correspondent does not de¬ 
scribe the insect found in the nests alluded to. 
If really the borer, it must have been on its re¬ 
turn from the tree in a winged state, and Ave are 
not aware that it ever constructs nests, as the fe¬ 
male usually lays her eggs and then secretes 
herself in some position where she dies without 
undergoing any change. Again, there are sel¬ 
dom more than five or six Avorms in a single 
tree, even Avhere badly infested, though Dr. 
Fitch speaks of a remarkable case in which 
tw'enty Avorms were found in one tree. It is 
probable that the hole through the paper Avas 
made by an escaping borer beetle, Avhich would 
naturally continue gnaAving until free, and that 
the nests or cocoons w r ere made by worms or 
caterpillars of various kinds which had man¬ 
aged to crawl under the loose paper in order to 
secrete themselves Avhile changing from the pu¬ 
pa to the perfect state, and most likely to spend 
the Winter in the secure quarters.—E d.] 
------ 
Insects upon Evergreens. 
It can not be denied that insects of one sort 
and another are beginning to invade our coni¬ 
fers. The Scotch Larch is suffering badly in 
some districts. The Balsam Fir has long been 
infested. On this tree w r e have occasionally 
found a green Avorm, which curls up and drops 
to the ground as soon as the branches are shaken. 
But the worst enemy of this old favorite tree Is 
a very small insect which covers the tAvigs and 
leaA r es, causing the latter to roll up, and giving 
the wdiole tree a shabby look. Where one has 
a large number of these trees, especially if they 
are old specimens, it is useless to try to extirpate 
these insects. But on one or tAvo trees, avc 
should think an occasional shower bath of 
whale-oil soap might be serviceable. 
There is another insect—distinct, avc think, 
from either of the foregoing—called the Pine 
Weevil, which infests the Pine, the Spruce, and 
Balsam Fir, and probably other evergreens. The 
first sign of his presence on a tree, is the droop¬ 
ing of a limb, sometimes the leading shoot, and 
then its falling. If, on first observing the injury, 
we cut off the shoot beloAV the break, avc shall 
find a worm about an inch long, of the size of a 
large knitting needle, in the central portions of the 
shoot, where he has bored a home for himself. 
If these several pests increase largely, it Avill 
be a sad thing to all lovers of conifers. It is 
said that a species of ichneumon lly often de¬ 
posits its eggs in the larvae cf the pine weevil, 
and preys upon it. Good fly! welcome to our 
grounds, and multiply and increase your prog¬ 
eny. Mr. Harris, the great insect professor, 
suggests as a check upon the weevil, to stick 
newly cut branches of pine in the ground in the 
neighborhood of favorite trees, during the sea¬ 
son when tlipy lay their eggs (April and May ?). 
Examine these branches often, xvlien they Avill 
be found covered w'itli insects which may be 
gathered on blankets and burned. 
--- -- mmrnmm -*-•- 
Aphides on toe Aster. —A correspondent 
writes that the aphides have attacked the roots 
of his Asters, and are doing much injury. A 
Brooklyn gardener recommends to carefully lift 
the plants from the ground, breaking as ferv fi¬ 
bers as possible, wash the roots, and replace 
[October, 
them. Though this seems hazardous, it may 
succeed if properly done, as the plants are hardy. 
*-^- 
How to grow the Hyacinth. 
It is unnecessary to make a labored plea for 
this old and well-knoAvn plant. It is able to 
speak for itself, and is a favorite Avith all avIio 
love gardens. It appears at a season when oth¬ 
er fioAvers are comparatively scarce. It is easily 
managed, is beautiful and fragrant; and, rising 
up from the cold ground in early Spring, it 
seems like an old friend come to cheer us and 
to claim our sympathy in return. 
Of Hyacinths, it is said that there are more 
than a thousand varieties cultivated in Holland; 
and the annual export of bulbs, (including 
tulips, etc.,) from that country to England, France 
and the United States, forms quite an import¬ 
ant item of commerce. In selecting a lot Im¬ 
planting, it is advisable to get as great a variety 
of colors and shades as one’s space Avill admit. 
One can have the patriotic colors of “ red, 
white and blue,” and every shade of them. He 
can also have Avhite with red, blue, and yelloAV 
eyes, or Avith pink stripes, and green tips, etc. 
The double flowers are generally preferred, but 
the single often present the finest colors. 
Hyacinths often fail to give perfect satisfac¬ 
tion, from tAvo causes. First, they are planted 
in poor soil; and secondly, the tops are cut off 
as soon as the plants are done flowering. The 
latter is an injurious practice, because the bulbs 
need the leaves to store up food for next year’s 
use. The foliage should be left untouched un¬ 
til it is ripe, Avhich is indicated by its turning 
yelloAV ; then it may be removed. 
As to the soil, too much attention can hardly 
be given. Choose a good, sunny aspect, break 
it up tAvo spades deep, carting off a part of the 
lower spit, if it is cold and stiff. The English 
formula for a hyacinth bed is as folloAvs: “ One 
third river or sea-sand; one third fresh, sound 
earth; one fourth rotten coav dung at least two 
years old; and the balance of decayed leaves or 
old peat.” This is all very -well, but it ansAvers 
every ordinary purpose, if good garden soil is 
ameliorated by a dressing of old coAv-dung, sand, 
and Avoods earth in equal quantities, mixed Avell 
together. Let the bed stand a Aveek or ten days 
to settle. This Avork should be done the present 
month; if delayed until November, the growth 
of the bulbs and the floAvering next year, Avillbe 
quite feeble. 
The bed being prepared, the next thing is to 
assort the colors so as to produce the best effect. 
This can easily be done. British florists have 
for years past, made this a matter of much study, 
and have fixed upon the following classification 
Avhich proves to be generally satisfactory. 
I Dark 
1 Red 
White 
1 Light 
| Red 
Dark 
Blue 
1 Light 
1 Red 
| White 
1 Right 
Blue 
Dark 
Red 
AVhite 
Light 
Red 
| White 
T Daik 
1 Red 
Yellow 
Light 
Blue 
Dark 
Red 
White 
1 Dark 
| Red 
1 Light 
| Blue 
i Dark 
Blue 
Yellow 
Light 
Blue 
Dark 
Red 
1 Light 
[ Blue 
jYellow j 
Light 
Red 
Dark 
Blue 
Yellow 
Light 
Blue 
| Yellow 
Dark I 
Blue | 
White 
Light 
Red 
Dark 
Blue 
Yellow 
Dark 
Blue 
Light 1 
Red | 
It will be found that the contrasts here are 
very good, whether the bed is vierved on one 
side or the other. 
The bulbs being in hand, lay a straight edged 
board across the bed, and make drills by the side 
of it five inches deep. Set the bulbs six or eight 
inches apart. Put a small handful of sand at the 
Doiut wdiere each bulb is to stand, and bury the 
