284 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
[August, 
serted is the starting point of a new tree, all of the 
stock, or the tree in which the bud is placed, being 
cut away above the bud. 
Grafting and Budding Differ in other points be¬ 
sides that mentioned. In grafting (at least so far 
as fruit trees are concerned) we use buds of the 
last season’s growth, and expect them to grow the 
same season we insert them. In budding, we use 
buds that have been formed the same season, and 
expect them to lie dormant all winter, and to start 
into growth the following spring; hence budding 
is done in summer and early fall. 
What are Needed in Budding. —Stocks on which to 
work ; buds, a suitable knife for the work, and ma¬ 
terial for tying the buds after insertion. 
The Stocks are usually small, from one fourth of 
an inch to an inch thick; peach and plum stocks 
from 6eed planted in spring, are usually large 
enough by mid-summer ; slower growing ones will 
be older. The stock must be in a thrifty, growing- 
state ; the proper condition is shown by the bark 
parting freely from the wood, or as budders say, 
“the bark will run.” 
Buds are formed in the axils of the leaves of 
twigs that have grown the same season. They 
must be well formed, and of course great care 
should be taken to get them true to the kind. The 
suitable twigs are cut, taking care to keep from 
wilting by thorough wetting. To prevent evapora¬ 
tion, each leaf is cut away, leaving about half an 
inch attached to the leaf-stalk ; as the lowermost 
buds on a twig are usually very small, and the up¬ 
permost not mature enough, both the top and bot¬ 
tom of the twig are cut off. A twig thus prepared 
is.called a “ stick of buds,” and is ready for use. 
It must be kept in the shade and cool until used, 
and in budding the sticks, except the one in hand, 
should be kept covered and damp. 
The Knife. —Budding knives of various patterns 
are sold, with round and square points, and with 
and without a thin ivory spatula at the end oppo¬ 
site the blade, as in figure 1. Each regular bud- 
der has his own notions about the best shape, but 
the rapid budders generally use a round blunt- 
pointed knife, and some prefer to have the blade 
Eig. 1.— BUDDING KNIFE. 
fixed, and in a round wooden handle. Whatever 
the style of knife, it should be very sharp. 
The Tying Material in most general use is bast, 
either imported in the form of Russia matting, or 
that made from our native Basswood ; other im¬ 
ported fibers are sold, such as Roffia, Japan-Flax, 
etc. Some budders at the West prefer selected 
inner corn-husks, or “ shucks,” to any other ma¬ 
terial, while some use soft cotton twine exclusively. 
The Operation is here illustrated by some engrav¬ 
ings from Fulton’s “Peach Culturist.” The leaves 
being stripped from the lower part of the stock, 
the budder makes 
an upright ' cut 
11 i | through the bark, 
II | and another cross- 
ILr ( wise at the top of 
ife that, as in figure 2. 
H He then cuts a 
Hr / stick °f buds, and 
IIH selecting a leaf bud 
tip ^ (fruit buds are 
lUil I i al 'g er and rounder, 
|Sj ' and are not used), 
if 11 he enters the knife 
Pi | 1 about half an inch 
^ ^ above the,bud, and 
Fig. 2.— the cut. cuts downward so 
Fig. 3.— the shield and bud. that the knife will 
Fig. 4. — bud inserted. come out about as 
far below the bud ; 
this will remove a shield of bark, upon which is the 
bud and the leaf-stalk below it, which serves as 
a handle to the shield (fig-3). A small portion 
of the wood will be taken oflf with the bark. Some 1 
advise the removal of this bit of wood, but in prac¬ 
tice it is usually left, taking care to have it as thin | 
as possible. The corners of the cut being lifted by 
the blade of the knife, or thin ivory on the handle, 
the bud is inserted as in figure 4, 
and the top of the shield cut 
square with the cross cut on the 
stock. The bud is now to be 
tied in, with a few turns of 
bast or other material, leaving 
the bud exposed. Figure 5 
shows one method of tying. 
The Time for Budding varies 
with the character of the season. 
Plums usually come first, Pears 
on Pear-stock; Apples, Peaches, 
Cherries,on Mazzard stock; Pears 
on Quince, and Cherries on Ma- 
haleb follow in the order named. 
After Care. —If the bud has formed a union with 
the stock, or has “taken,” it may be known at the 
end of 10 days or two weeks from the time of in¬ 
sertion. If it succeeds it will remain plump, the 
portion of bark attached to it will be fresh and 
bright, while the leaf-stalk that served as a handle, 
will have ripened and fallen oflf. Shriveled bud and 
bark, with the leaf-stalk dried up and holding fast, 
show a failure. At the end of three weeks the ties 
are cut and removed, but in some stocks the growth 
may have caused the tie to strangle before the union 
is complete, and it must be loosened before it can 
be removed altogether. The next spring the stock 
is cut away above the bud, and the whole growth 
of the tree be confined to that. 
Expert Budders work with astonishing rapidity, 
and consider 1,500 to 2,000 buds a fair day’s work, 
but some will put in 3,000. By practice they ac¬ 
quire a knack of working with the fewest motions; 
both cuts are made without taking the knife .away 
from the place, and when the stock is in proper 
condition, the bark is not lifted other than by the 
bud when it is pushed into its place. These experts 
have one man or boy to go ahead and strip the 
stocks, and two to follow and tie. 
Fnsit Garden. 
The fruit for the present season being off of many 
kinds, preparation for the crop of next year is now 
in order. With a view to this in 
Raspberries and Blackberries, we prefer, for rea¬ 
sons given last month, to cut away the old canes as 
soon as the fruit is off. Select the new shoots that 
are to fruit next year, and keep them tied up, de¬ 
stroying all the others. When these reach four 
feet high in raspberries, and six feet in blackberries, 
stop them by cutting or pinching off the tip; some 
prefer them lower than this by a foot. This stop¬ 
ping will cause branching, and the branches should 
not be allowed to grow over 15 or 18 inches long. 
Black- Cap and Purple- Cane raspberries should have 
the old branches cut out, and if so many new ones 
start as to make the bushes crowded, remove a 
part. Stop the remainder at 3 or 4 ft. 
Slrawbendes. —Those who have runners rooted in 
small pots, may set out this month, and get a good 
crop next year. Runners from the bed had better 
be left until next month, unless one can give spe¬ 
cial care. Plants set now should have all the outer 
leaves removed, to prevent evaporation, leaving on¬ 
ly the bud of undeveloped leaves in the center; 
spread the roots well; water to settle the earth 
around the roots, drawing fine soil around the plant, 
and mulch with stable litter. If a very dry time 
follows, watering may be needed. While this 
would not pay in field culture, it may be practised 
in the family garden, and a good crop, if not a full 
one, be had next spring. 
Grapes. —But little work is now required in the 
vineyard. Hand-pick the large beetles and cater¬ 
pillars ; apply sulphur on the first appearance of 
mildew ; pinch in the growth of laterals, and re¬ 
move shoots that push where they ar^ not wanted. 
Hitvhen ami Market Garden. 
Beyond the gathering for use or market such arti¬ 
cles as are ready, there is less work required in this 
department now, than in any other growing month; 
still preparation may be made for a few late crops, 
and the general care of the growing crops, as set 
down in the Notes of the last and previous months, 
will require attention—and weeds—which we al¬ 
ways have with us, are quite sure to prevent any¬ 
thing like absolute idleness. 
Sowing Seeds may be done for late crops of bush 
beans, spinach, radishes, and lettuce. Those who 
wish to try a late crop of peas, should put in the 
early sorts, but in most seasons they mildew so 
badly as to be worthless. 
Turnips of the Swedes and Ruta-Baga kinds, 
should have been sown last month, but a fair crop 
may be generally had by sowing at once. The in¬ 
termediate sorts, such as Cow-Horn and Yellow 
Stone, may be sown by the middle, and the flat 
sorts, of which the Red-top Strap-leaf is best, at the 
end of the month, or early in September. Lime or 
ashes, or a mixture of the two, may be dusted over 
the young plants to keep off “the flea,” which is 
less troublesome than early in the season. 
Onions are ready to harvest when the tops of a 
majority have fallen over. Many growers send to 
market directly from the field. If they are to he 
kept, they should be cured a few days in the sun, 
stacking at night in heaps of a few bushels each, 
with the tops outward. When stored, spread in 
thin layers in an airy loft. 
Onion Sets’ are pulled, allowed to dry thoroughly, 
and spread in an airy place, in a layer not over six 
inches deep. They must be looked to, and stirred 
occasionally, during warm weather. 
Woi-kingof Crops in rows should be continued un¬ 
til the leaves become so large as to stop it. The 
late cabbages will need frequent hoeing. 
Celery should have been put in earlier, but plants 
set at once will make fair-sized heads. The growth 
is to be promoted by hoeing and weeding. 
Sweet Potatoes should now cover the ground, and 
keep the weeds down, and need no other care than 
moving the vines occasionally, to prevent them 
from taking root. 
Sweet Com. —As soon as the ears are taken from a 
row, the stalks should be cut up at once, and cured 
for fodder. If allowed to stand, they will grow 
woody and become valueless. 
Insects will still attack the plants, especially to¬ 
matoes, squashes, and all of their family, egg 
plants, etc., and should be destroyed, as advised in 
last month’s Notes. 
Flower Garden and Lawn. 
Keeping things in a neat and orderly condition, 
will require care rather than hard work.In a 
dry time, the lawn should not be mowed too close¬ 
ly, or too often.Keep the, ornamental beds in 
well defined lines, and regulate the hight of the 
plants.Give supports to such plants as need 
them; dahlias,- lilies, gladioluses, and others, are 
often not presentable, unless helped to stand erect. 
_Cut away spent flower clusters, except where 
seeds are wanted.Insects are always to be kept 
under; lilies, especially the Japan sorts, are at¬ 
tacked by a small caterpillar upon the under-side 
of the leaves, and will riddle them, unless stopped 
—thumb and finger and a squeeze will do'it. 
Cireenliouse and Window Plants. 
There is scarcely anything to add to last month’s 
Notes, which mainly had reference to the care of 
plants placed out of doors. Needed shade, water, 
and protection against injury, whether from insects 
or larger animals, are to be given to the plants, 
whether set outside, or remaining in the house.... 
The present is a favorable month for doing all 
needed repairs, whether to the house or the healing 
apparatus_..Bedding plants may be propagated 
by cuttings this month and next, for a stock to 
keep over winter.Any plants in pots, that are 
not in healthy condition, may have the soil washed 
from their roots, and be re-potted with fresh soil, 
using a pot no larger than before ; this treatment 
is especially beneficial to roses kept in pots, and 
with other plants will often recuperate them, as 
well as the usual method of giving larger pots. 
