38 
AMERICAN A GRIG [.' LTtJRIST. 
[Fi RRITAKT 
ommon practice is to break joints, and, if no 
taps are designed to be put on the fence, this, 
undoubtedly, is the better plan ; but to secure a 
durable and strong fence, it is better to make 
each panel separately; select the broadest, 
w idest, and best posts for the ends of the panels, 
and set and secure them in the ground first. By 
doing this, you will be more likely to get the 
fence straight, and less care will be needed in 
placing the intermediate posts. An inferior in¬ 
termediate post will answer the purpose, perhaps, 
ns Well as the best. If your ground is uneven, 
as up hill and down, a fence, when completed, 
will have more symmetry and beauty. 
Higlu .—Four feet above the embankment is 
high enough for any fence. This bight is fully 
equal, in effect, to one of lour and a half or five feet, 
when built in the ordinary manner. 
Width of Boards. — There is, I conceive, 
a stereotyped error in graduating the width 
of the boards ; that is, putting a wide 
one for the bottom, and narrower ones as you 
approach the top. The better plan is to have 
ihem all of the same width, and that width five 
or six inches only ; it is desirable to have fre¬ 
quent open spaces, that the wind may pass 
through more readily, and not to have so great a 
width of board resting upon the post at one point, 
holding moisture and causing it to rot much 
sooner. For this reason, also, split posts, as a 
general rule, are preferable to sawed ones. Se¬ 
lect one having a pretty wide face, for the ends of 
the panels to be nailed to, and all the others 
trim in such a manner as to have as little surface 
touching the board as possible—one inch surface, 
or even less, to nail to, is better than four or five. 
Battens also induce rot; if used at all, they 
should be put only over the ends of the boards 
where the panels come together, and be only 
about four inches wide. For an extra strong 
tence, a board should be nailed on each side of 
(be posts at the top, and after all the posts are 
sawed off level, put a cap on, and nail it secure¬ 
ly to both boards , as well as to the top of the 
posts, observing to break joints by placing the 
center of the cap over the post where the panels 
meet; this gives the whole strength of the cap 
edgewise in keeping the fence stiff at the top. 
In duing this, it will be perceived that the first 
cap must he sawed in two in the middle, and 
put on first, then all the others at full length will 
break joints over the proper post. It is not nec¬ 
essary that the ends of the caps should come 
together over the end of a post; it would be 
best not to have them do so, for the reason 
that when a whole hoard is made to cover the 
end of the post no water can get to it, to cause 
it to decay. Where the ends of the caps come 
together, more or less water will in time pass 
through the joint. One word as to putting on 
the caps. Before commencing the operation, 
see that the top of the fence is straight ; if any 
variation from a straight line is noticeable, 
crowd the post in or out as the case may be, and 
secure it there by temporary braces. After this 
is done, nail on the first cap of half length, then 
put on the second cap, and let the end of it lap 
over the first, half an inch or more, and nail it 
securely also, except three or four feet from 
where the lap is. Then pass a saw through 
both caps where they come together, giving it a 
slight inclination from the perpendicular or right 
angle, and pass it through both boards, and when 
the short pieces are removed, the ends come to¬ 
gether with a perfect joint; then nail them to ’ 
the very ends. 
The nails proper for a board fence should be 
of different hinds and sizes, If hard wood is 
used for posts, the eight-penny fence nails are 
large enough ; but if soft wood, as the white 
cedar, then a larger sized fence nail should be 
selected, and for putting on the caps, the com¬ 
mon eight or ten-penny nail will answer the best 
purpose, and will be cheaper, as there are more 
of them to the pound. 
The strength and practical benefit of a fence 
made in the way just described, has been fully 
demonstrated within my own knowledge, and I 
can recommend it in the confident belief that it 
will fully answer the most sanguine expecta¬ 
tions. 
If the ground be wet and springy, ora heavy 
clay soil, in which the posts when set will be lia¬ 
ble to heave, and eventually he thrown out of 
the ground, the better way will be to dig a ditch 
at once, two feet and a half deep, and set the 
posts into it, at proper distances, and fill up the 
ditch with small stones ; or, if they are not con¬ 
venient, lay in the tile pipes in the same manner 
as for a common tile underdrain. Or, if neither 
can be had, brush or bits of rail, or anything 
placed in the bottom of the ditch that will lead 
off the water, will answer the purpose; observ¬ 
ing, at the same time, to have a free outlet for the 
water at all points where it may collect in the 
lowest ground. This, with the small embank¬ 
ment, and its ditch on each side, will effectually 
secure the posts from ever being raised out of 
ground by the action of the frost. The ditch 
can be made almost, or quite as cheap, as to dig 
the post holes separately, and at the same time 
you will have a good underdrain. 
With reference to the kind of lumber most 
suitable for fence boards; pine is the best,hem¬ 
lock next, and these should be sawed full an 
inch thick. But when oak, beech, hickory, 
maple, ash, or elm is used, the boards should be 
sawed much Ihinner. Five-eighths or three- 
fourths of an inch is thick enough, for the reason 
that all these different kinds of wood will warp 
very much in the sun ; and if thick, say an inch 
or more, there will be so much strength in them 
that they will draw the nails or split in warping. 
But if thin and narrow, they will keep their 
places much better, and are sufficiently strong 
for all practical purposes. 
Daniel A. Robinson. 
’ Cayuga Co., N. Y., 9 th mo., 1859, 
--—aa-fr- m— - 
Advertising Information—Gratis—VIII. 
During the past few weeks of our business 
season, we have had little time to devote to 
investigating the operations of the advertising 
fraternity; nor have we thought much attention 
to this subject needed. The revelations already 
made in these columns have pretty well posted 
up our readers in most of the “dodges” hitherto 
adopted — an indication of the attention 
awakened by our articles, is found in the fact 
that they have forwarded to this office recently 
an immense number of circulars, etc., sent out 
to various parts of the country, by the humbug¬ 
ging gentry. Our articles have been widely 
copied or noticed by other journals, and so wide 
awake have people become, that the swindlers 
are beginning to find their advertisements less 
profitable. Until recently, we could gather 
twenty or thirty suspicious advertisements from 
the papers in every week; hut the number has 
been greatly reduced lately. We intend to fol¬ 
low up the subject as far as needful, and to be on 
the watch for new developments, which will, 
doubtless, continue to come up. We must beg 
our readers, who have contributed so largely to 
our stock of materials, to wait a little. Their 
contributions will be attended to whenever there 
is a new swindle to be exposed. We «ill now 
complete 
(A r o. 26. Continued fom page 0.) 
32. Oil Paste Blacking.— Take oil of Vitriol 2 
ounces. Ivory Black 1 pound, Molasses 5 ounces, Tan¬ 
ner’s Oil 5 ounces ; mix the vitriol and oil together, and 
let it stand a day ; then add the Ivory Black and Molas¬ 
ses, and stir it well together, HU it makes a thick paste. 
[Remarks .—A year or two since, a man in Connecticut 
paid $2 for this recipe to a traveling cheat, « ho exhibit! d 
the blacking, and sold the recipe. The purchaser forgot to 
ask about the “ ivory black,” and came all the way to 
New-York to find it. lie was referred to this office by 
some one he called on, and after examining his blacking 
samples, we had to tell him that, although the blacking 
would polish boots web, it would ruin the leather, as will 
any other blacking, which contains o lof vitriol (su!| huric 
acid, and this is Ihe case with a majority of the “ black¬ 
ings” sold in the country. We always test blacking be¬ 
fore buying, by holding it upon the tongue ; or better still, 
by dissolving a small bit of cooking soda in Water, and 
putting a li’tie blacking in. If it boils or ferments, it 
shows the presence of acid, which is injurious to leather. 
The molasses often hides the taste of the acid, so that ihe 
soda test is better than tasting. We repeat that, though 
the above preparation makes a glossy blacking, it is not a 
safe preparation for leather.] 
33. To Preserve Metals fbom Rust. —Take some 
melted beeswax and rub it over lhe aritcie to be preserv¬ 
ed. When dry. warm tile arliele again, so as to get off 
the wax, and rub it w ith a cloth until the former polish is 
restored. By this me tns, all llie pores of ihe metal are 
filled up, without injury to the appearance, and rust will 
not attack it, unless very carelessly exposed to constant 
humidity. 
[Remark.— A far belter material Ilian beeswax is made 
by melting about three ounces of unsalted lard with one 
ounce of common resin. This tubbed on metallic sur¬ 
faces, will preserve them from rust. It is simple, cheap, 
and effective. Knives and folks, plows, and all imple¬ 
ments and tools of any kind may well he coated with it, 
when laid aside for however brief a season ] 
34. Black & Red Sealing Wax—R osin, Beeswax, 
Pitch, and Ivory Black, melt togeiher, arid while w orn, 
dip your bottle in and set aside to cool For Red, use 
English Red. 
[Remark. —Very definite information ! We will supply 
the lacking instruction as to the amount to be used, viz ; 
Take rosin (resin), bees wax, pitch, and ivory black, of 
each a quantity as large as a piece of chalk Experiment 
for a week, until you get the right proportions. VVhrc 
you find the stuff still as biittle as glass, then add Venice 
turpentine, and you may get a usable article.] 
35. Cologne Water. —One ounce each of oil rosemary, 
of jessamine, and oil bergamot, 10 drops otto rose, to a gal¬ 
lon proof spirits—mix. 
£ Remark .—This will make a Cologne water—we can 
not vouch for its quality—that will depend upon individual 
taste, or smell. Any scented water or alcohol is called 
Cologne water, now-a-days.] 
36. Hair Restorative — Take one ounce of palrna- 
efirista oil, add oil of lavender to scent it; let it be well 
brushed into the hair twice a day, for two months. An 
excel’ent oil. 
[Remark.— There’s every thing in a name—sometimes. 
“ Palma-christa oil” translated into English, means 
castor oil—no excellent oil for physic. If your hair needs 
physicing “ twice a day for two months,” don’t fail to use 
this restorative—if not, not. . 
37. Curling Liquid for the Hair. —Take two ounces 
of scrapings of lead, qnaiter of an ounce litharge of gold, 
one draclnn camphor; boil the whole in a pint of soft w a¬ 
ter for half an hour; w hen cold, pi ur off the liquid, and 
add to it a drachm of Ihe sugar of lead, and a drachm of 
rosemary flowers ; boil ihese up together, and strain off 
the liquid, w lien it is fit for use. 
[ Remark .—If any body’s hair would not curl, after such 
an application, it certainly can have not the slightest 
strain of African blood in it. But we fear we shall have 
to send another dollar to find out what “ lilharge of gold ” 
is. Wc know that litharge is an oxide of lead, used in 
drying paint, but “ litharge of gold ” puzzles us.] 
36. Excelsior Hair Oil.— Take one gallon cologne 
spirits, 00 per cent proof; add of the oil of lemon, orange 
and bergamot, each a spodnful; add also of the extract 
of vanilla, 40 drops ; shake until ihe oils are cut up, then 
add one and a half pints of solt water. 
[Remark .—About as good as many of the cheap “ hair 
oils” sold in bottles, we suppose, Af.er the above 
is “finished,” what does it amount to hut scented 
strong whiskey, or diluted alcohol ? We suspcc t this was 
put in to make up Ihe “fifty methods.” Its use on the 
hair would he of more injury than go al.] 
3d. Celebrated Tooth Powder.— Prepared chalk, 
four ounces ; alum, two drachms; cream tartar, two 
ounces; white sugar, one ounce ; orris, one and a half 
ounces—mix. 
[Remart.—Omit the aln;n and the cream of tartar, and 
the above will do very well. Generally, a still'brush and 
simple wmter, or a lillle hard soap added, is the best tooth 
cleanser.] 
40. Cough Syrup.— Take 30 drops of laudanum, 25 
