101 
isoo ] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTt J1 1 i 
and tendril, and flower, making the heart glad, and min- 
.stering continually to the gentler and better feelings, and 
at the same time bringing roses of health to the cheeks 
now pale with the confinement and monotony of house¬ 
work. Make a flower garden this year if never before. 
Making or renewing gravel walks, setting out decidu¬ 
ous trees, seeding lawns, preparing borders, transplanting 
flower roots, and sowing annuals, will give ample em¬ 
ploy nr. in this department. 
Annuals —The hardier sorts may be sown, m,ll. Among 
- .iie more common but attractive sorts are asters, balsams, 
candytuft, coreopsis, clarkia, coxcomb, escholtzia, hibis¬ 
cus, larkspur, lavatera, marygold, mignonette, nasturtium, 
phlox, portulacca, scabious, etc. Many of these are on 
our list for free distribution, see page 122. They are 
described on pages 3, 4, (January No.). Sow them 
in patches or singly, according to their habit of growth. 
With most of them it is important to cover the seed very 
lightly. In all cases the soil should be finely pulverized, 
and worked to a good depth. 
Biennials and Perennials—With good care many of these 
increase rapidly, sending up additional stalks from the 
new roots. The supply may be increased by dividingand 
transplanting the roots. If more are not wanted, take out 
the surplus growth to keep them in proper limits. Sow 
seed, m, 11. Among these may be named carnations, 
pinks, daisies, chrysanthemums, lillies, sweet williams, 
yuccas, peonies, columbines, hollyhocks, dielytras, etc. 
Borders—Trench deeply and make quite rich. Lay 
them off three to four feet wide for convenience of work¬ 
ing. Prepare for sowing seeds, ff, m, by spading and 
raking until the soil is mellow and free from small stones 
and lumps. 
Box for edging or borders maybe set out, m, 1. Set 
thinly, and in straight rows by a line, or in regular curves 
to conform to the shape of the flower bed or border. 
Bulbs—Hyacinths, tulips, crown imperials, etc., should 
be in bloom, m, 11. Support the heads by tying to small 
sticks, and water if the ground be dry, but do not wet the 
blooms. The flowers will remain longer if shaded from 
the sun. 
Carnations—Transplant to open ground, 11, those kept 
in pits during Winter. Shift those needing it to larger 
puts where kept for house plants. Keep well watered 
and the soil loose around them. Separate the layers if 
not taken off last season. 
Dahlias and Gladiolus—Early blooming is secured by 
planting the tubers in boxes, m, 11. These are set in the 
open air in mild weather, and kept housed when cold. 
When well started, and the weather is warm and settled, 
they are transplanted to the border. 
Dicentra (Dielytia), is one of the most beautiful flow- 
e s in the border. Plant out and divide roots, m, 1. 
Draining is beneficial here as elsewhere. Especially 
should drains be laid under walks where the ground is at 
all wet. 
Edgings around the borders may be of grass or Box. 
The latter is preferable if it can be procured. It should 
be kept trimmed down to not more than eight or nine 
inches, though by main walks which are long, a higher 
growth is allowable. Fill vacant spots, f, m. If grass be 
used, trim the edges evenly, and keep from encroaching 
on the border. A steel-edging knife is the best implement 
to trim the turf with. 
Evergreens succeed best transplanted in May. They 
can, however, be moved now, if specially desired. 
Frames and Pits—Ventilate freely to harden off the 
plants and prepare them for planting out. Transplant 
from them, m, 11, if the weather has become mild and 
settled. 
Flowering Shrubs—Plant, ff, m, the allliea, flowering 
almond, azalea, chionanthus, flowering currant, deutzia, 
euonymous, holly, Japan quince, laburnum, lilac, phila- 
delphus, rose acacia, snowberry, snowball, spiraea, tree 
pmony, weigelia, etc. The early flowering shrubs will 
give a finer bloom by being transplanted as soon as the 
ground is in working order. 
Gravel Walks—Rake off the gravel, hoe out grass, sow 
liberally with salt to prevent future growth, and replace 
the covering smoothly and evenly, adding more where 
needful. Make new walks, f, m. 
Hedges—Set out privet, althea, buckthorn, etc., for 
hedges, f, rn. Those to be planted with Arbor Vitae, hem¬ 
lock or other evergreens, are better left until next 
month. Osage Orange and honey locust are of too ram¬ 
pant and coarse agiowth to form a handsome screen or 
protection around the pleasure grounds. 
Honeysuckles, Wistarias, and other climbers—Tie up 
and arrange upon trellises, m, 11, any plants laid down 
during the Winter. Divide and reset roots, ff, m. 
Labels should be affixed to all flow ers planted, with the 
nimes’J^-'" marked. Become familiar with the botan¬ 
ical names of the various kinds grown ; it will be a good 
introduction to further study. Prepare an ample supply 
both of labels and stakes, during dull or rainy days. Large 
numbers will be wanted soon. 
Lawn—Its beauty depends mainly on a thick, smooth, 
velvety surface, free from all unsightly objects as twigs, 
dead leaves, etc. Sow seeds of mixed grasses for new 
lawns, or on bare spots of old ; top dress with guano, 
bone dust, ashes, or other finely divided fertilizer, and 
roll smooth. Liquid manure may be given by attaching 
a sprinkler to a hogshead set upon a cart or wagon. 
Prune, ff, vines or shrubs not yet attended to. 
Petunias and Verbenas—Sow seeds of mixed varieties, 
m, 1. Procure rooted plants from florists and set, 11. They 
make a fine show when set in masses. 
Roses—The almost endless variety of monthly, re¬ 
montant (twice blooming,) and common sorts, enables the 
cultivator to secure a rich profusion of bloom from these 
universally popular plants. They can be procured in any 
quantity from nurserymen, whose catalogues enumerate 
hundreds of sorts. The Remontant, sometimes called 
Hybrid Perpetual, will give the best satisfaction for hardy 
free blooming and handsome sorts. Plant out, ff, m. 
Prune and tie in place those trained to trellises or pillars. 
Uncover tender varieties buried or tied up last Fall. 
Shade Trees—Replace those that are not thriving with 
vigorous young trees, if they can not be brought to good 
growth by proper cultivation. Plant deciduous kinds, ff, 
m, observing directions given on page 103, in this paper. 
Prune off straggling twigs and suckers. 
Tender shrubs and vines which were strawed up, or 
otherwise protected last Fall, may be uncovered, f, m, 
according as the season is early or backward. If the 
plants are quite tender and covered with a thick coating, 
remove a portion at a time. 
Vines and Climbers—Plant, ff, m, bignonia, clematis, 
honeysuckles, ivy, trumpet flower, Virginian creeper, wis¬ 
taria, moneywort, etc. 
Green-Houses. 
Too high a temperature and insufficient ventilation 
force plants into a spindling, sickly growth, and if con¬ 
tinued destroys all vigor. As the weather is now grow¬ 
ing warmer, care will be needed to prevent this. Except, 
perhaps, on occasional cold days artificial heat will not be 
required. The sashes may be removed almost wholly 
during mild weather, and the plants thus hardened for 
transplanting out. When the temperature rises quite 
high, give plenty of moisture by frequent syringings. 
Bedding Plants—Propagate by cuttings, layering, and 
dividing roots, an ample stock of verbenas, petunias, ge¬ 
raniums, daisies, pansies, etc. These will be wanted the 
latter part of the month or or the first of May for the 
open border. Expose by degrees to gradually harden 
them for the change. 
Bulbs in bloom should be shaded from too powerful 
light which will cause the flowers to wither sooner ; they 
require plenty of air and water. Those that have passed 
out of flower may be planted out. 
Callas—Keep them in erect position by frequently turn¬ 
ing to the light. Give abundance of water and keep free 
from dust. 
Camellias—Syringe freely and insert cuttings. 
Cape Bulbs in flower should be brought forward to the 
light and have plenty of air to encourage the growth of 
healthy flowers. Keep them from the direct rays of very 
bright sunshine to prolong the blooming. 
Cuttings of fuchsias, geraniums, myrtles, hydrangeas, 
camellias, jasmines, salvias and most other kinds, may be 
made. Choose well ripened growth, arid insert in soil 
prepared from sand and leaf mold, place the pots where 
they will receive good bottom heat and shade, and water 
carefully. Hard wooded kinds which do not root freely, 
should have bell glasses placed over them to insure growth. 
Head down shrubby plants that are stinted in growth 
and not thrifty, at the same time shift to new pots and 
cut out diseased roots. 
Inarching may be performed this month on oranges, 
lemons, pomegranates, and other plants of shrubby growth. 
Full directions for the process are given in Vol. XVI, 
page 184 (August No.). 
Insects require continual watchfulness. Where ants 
are troublesome, set sponges sprinkled with sugar, and 
destroy them by soaking in hot water. Syringing and 
fumigations with tobacco will keep many in check. 
Mildew—This may be remedied by sprinkling flour of 
sulphur upon the plants where it appears. Dust it also 
upon the flues and wherever traces of it are found. 
Pot off annuals previously sown that have attained suf¬ 
ficient size. 
Pruning—Cut back and pinch in all straggling shoots 
that interfere with a well shaped head. 
Sow seeds for green-house culture early. Geraniums, 
oleanders, aloes, cactuses, mimosas, euphorbias, cinera¬ 
rias, solanums, etc., etc., should be sowed in light pre 
pared soil, plunged in the bark bed for good bottom heat, 
and covered with glass. Many of these require even 
months for vegetating. 
Shifting—When plants need more room, change them 
to larger pots on a mild day. Cut away dead or diseased 
roots. Place an inch or two of lumps of charcoal or 
broken crocks upon the bottom, set the plant with its ball 
of earth upon these and fill around it with fresh compost. 
Give fresh earth to plants that do not. need transplanting. 
Suckers springing from the various plants may be re¬ 
moved and planted for propagation. 
Water should be given according to the wants of the 
plants. Those which are growing rapidly require a 
greater amount, than when partially dormant. Supply 
them only when the earth becomes dry. 
Ilot-IIoiise tijud Cosiserratorj'. 
More air will be required as the heat is increased by 
the advancing season- During the middle of the day, or 
after ten o clock in the morning if the temperature rises 
above ,0° fall, admit abundance of air by opening the 
roof lights, always being careful to avoid chilling the 
plants. Do not let the mercury fall below 60°. Fire 
will be necessary evenings, and cold windy days, the 
fruiting plants especially require uniform heat. Pre¬ 
serve the most scrupulous neatness. Pick off and re¬ 
move all decaying leaves and branches and keep all 
plants free from dust. 
Cuttings may be taken and managed as described above, 
under “Green-House.” Bring a good supply of those 
there alluded to into these houses for quick starting. 
Flowers in Pots—Continue to bring in from the green¬ 
house for blooming; introducing a few at a time to keep 
up a pleasing succession. 
Fuchsias—Water freely those that are in bloom. Take 
cuttings to increase the stock. 
Grapes—Continue to thin where needed. Cut back the 
laterals above the bunches to three leaves, and remove 
shoots between the bunches and the main cane. As the 
berries swell, support the shoulders of the bunches bv 
tying to the canes above. Syringe freely, adding sulphur 
to the water to prevent mildew. Some of the vines have 
only burst their buds, and need little care at present 
Insects will require continued watchfulness. Pick th. m 
off by hand, and continue fumigations with tobacco and 
syringing. 
Pines are now about fruiting, and require moisture in 
the atmosphere but not so much at the root. To secure 
this, water the walks and flues frequently, thus producing 
artificial heavy' dews. To secure large specimens of fruit, 
destroy the growth of suckers on a few of the most 
promising plants. This throws the strength of the plant 
into the fruit. 
Propagate a large stock of both house and out-door 
plants for flowering in the borders, by cuttings, layers, 
and suckers as directed above. 
Seeds of desirable hot-house plants may be sown now- 
in pots, plunged in the bark-bed, and covered with bell 
glasses, or in their absence with a pane of glass laid over 
each pot. Water them occasionally. Shifting to larger 
pots will be required as in the green-house; the direc¬ 
tions given there apply in this department. 
Apiary in ApriF. 
BY It. QUINBY. 
Continue to feed light stocks as they need it. Therr- is 
always danger when bees are fed, that strong colonies 
will be attracted to rob the store thus supplied. For this 
reason it is best to feed only as much as is actually re¬ 
quired, then in case of robbing, none will be wasted. Nev¬ 
er feed to all the hives promiscuously, by placing it where 
all can have access to it. Keep the entrances of all the 
hives contracted in proportion to the number of bees in 
the colony, allowing more room where the stocks are 
strong-Do not fail to watch for indications of robbing 
on the first really warm days, their morality is severe¬ 
ly tested before honey is supplied by the flowers, and bad 
habits are best nipped in the bud. This can bo decided 
more readily late in the day, as they will continue to 
work until nearly dark if it be warm. Should they bo 
detected in this work, remove the invaded hive to a dark 
room or cellar, and keep them there until two or three 
days warm enough for them to fly, have passed ; then re¬ 
turn it to the stand. Or, if practicable, the hive may be 
removed, at first, to anew locality a mile or more distant. 
To prevent the weeds and grass from growing about the 
hives, the surface of the ground may be covered two or 
three inches with spent tan or saw dust, when practical 
