181 
I860 ] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
Tools, Machines, etc.—Examine mowers and reapers, 
horse pitch forks, horse hoes and other labor saving im- 
plements,particularly those that have been tested. Al¬ 
ways buyflNfther than borrow, if possible. See that every 
implement is kept in repair—harness well oiled, wagons, 
carts, etc., greased and otherwise ready for use. Have a 
tool houso and w ork shop for storing and repairing farm¬ 
ing apparatus. 
Orchard and RTarscry, 
There is little danger that the market will be over¬ 
stocked with good fruit by the present generation at least. 
There are thousands who have never yet tasted what the 
experienced would consider a first rate pear, peach, or 
grape. Even of the ordinary kinds there is very rarely 
an adequate supply to reduce the price to a point that 
would enable persons of moderate means to indulge free¬ 
ly. The success of pains-taking cultivators leaves no 
doubt as to the profitableness of fruit raising. But even 
though it is not made a leading branch of farm industry, 
there can be no good'excuse for neglecting to stock the 
homestead with choice apples, pears, peaches, etc. Take 
time for it—it cannot be better bestowed than in provid¬ 
ing these promotives of health ; these luxuries that as 
much as any other feature make rural life desirable. It 
were much better that tree p’anting, except for e'ver- 
greens, should have been completed last month, but make 
a trial of at least a few trees, now at the earliest moment, 
rather than not at all. 
In the Nursery, the hurry of business is not yet over, 
much of the planting necessarily being delayed while tak¬ 
ing up, packing, and sending away early orders. Many 
of the stocks, having been kept in the cellar, are still in 
good planting condition. Besides, this is the evergreen 
planting month, and so largely are these ornamental trees 
now grown to supply the constantly increasing demand, 
the nurserymen are still pressed with business. As soon 
as the planting and transplanting is over, grounds should 
be spaded, where it can not be plowed, and the plow or 
horse-hoe run through the nursery rows, adding manure 
where needed. 
Apple trees suffer less than some other kinds from late 
transplanting. It wero better to have finished with them 
in April, but by taking up, ff, with plenty of soil with the 
roots and resetting immediately, they w ill live. 
Budded Trees—If not. done last month, cut away the 
growth above the buds inserted last season, unless they 
have failed to take. Leave a few inches of the main 
stem above the cut, to which the new growth may be tied 
for support, 11. Remove all suckers. 
Evergreens will be putting forth their new growth this 
month, and being in full vigor, are better able to bear 
transplanting than at any other season. Make a good se¬ 
lection of firs, spruces, pines, etc., for ornament and shel¬ 
ter, with arbor vitas for screens, and transplant, m, 1. 
Keep the roots as much as possible from exposure to sun 
and wind ; they suffer more than deciduous trees, owing 
probably to the resinous quality of the sap which hardens 
easily, and stops the circulation. Choose a w at day, take 
up plenty of earth with them, and give sufficient room for 
the lateral roots in the new location. 
Grafting may still be done, ff, if the cions were pre¬ 
viously cut, and are in good order ; full directions were 
given last month. Rub off suckers, II, so as to give the 
gratis all the sap. 
Head back the leading shoots of pear and apple trees, 
especially those inclined to a strong, upright growth. 
Peach trees are improved by cutting back one-third of the 
last season’s growth, not only upon the top, but among 
the outer branches. Dwarf pears are also greatly bene¬ 
fited by a free heading back. Cut near a bud upon the 
side where the leading shoot is desired, Open spaces can 
thus be filled with branches. 
Iloe out nursery rows carefully, m, 1. Much of the 
thrift of the trees depends upon keeping the surface light 
and porous. 
Inarching, or grafting by approach, may be performed, 
in, 1, on deciduous, and, 11, on evergreen trees. This is a 
ready method of constructing an ornamental gatewmy, 
bringing together, overhead, the branches of trees set for 
the purpose the previous year. Select limbs as near of a 
size as possible, of sinooih growth ; pare them alike, and 
bring them together so that the inner bark shall exactly 
meet on one, if not on both edges of the pared portions. 
Bind strips of bass matting or muslin, coated with graft¬ 
ing wax, firmly around them, and wind a string over 
the whole. If exposed to be swayed about by the wind, 
secure them to stakes, or the main branches of the tree. 
Leave the growth above the union until next season. 
Insects require constant watchfulness. Catterpillar 
ne.-ts will soon show themselves if the eggs were not de¬ 
stroyed ; brush them dow n at once, and crush them under 
'oot. Wash the trunks of all trees covered with scale or 
moss w ith a mixture of 11b w hale-oil soap to C gallons of 
water, or common soap and water. Potash and water 
will answer the same purpose. Examine peach add- ap¬ 
ple trees for borers, if any saw-dust is found around the 
collar of the tree, probe the hole with a wire or slip of 
whale-bone, or if he cannot be reached in this way, fol¬ 
low the insect wilh a knife or gouge, and gently kill him. 
Layer, ff, m, the shoots of quince trees and ornamental 
shrubs. This is also an easy way of obtaining an ad¬ 
ditional stock of 
grape vines for home 
use. Choose well- 
ripened wood of last 
year’s growth, bend 
down and bury a 
portion, fastening it 
in its place with a 
forked stick, and sup¬ 
port the part carried 
up from the ground 
with an upright 
stake. A cut is some¬ 
times made partly 
through the layered 
portion to facilitate the growth of new roots. The soil 
should be made mellow for the new roots to strike in. 
The figure shows the whole process. 
Mulching newly planted trees with straw or tan bark, 
is beneficial, particularly in dry weather. Spread it 
about half an inch thick over the surface as far as the 
roots extend. 
Orchards should be cultivated, not to raise rye, oats, or 
corn, but to secure a more profitable crop, a full bearing 
of fruit. Spread a liberal coat of composted manure and 
plow it in, not. deeply enough to disturb the roots near the 
surface, then harrow it occasionally through the season 
to keep down the weeds. Avoid wounding the trees 
with the plow—work about them with the hoo. Allow no 
suckers to grow about the body of the tree. 
Peaches, apricots, and other stone fruits not trans¬ 
planted last month, may still be set out, ff, with the pre¬ 
cautions mentioned above, under apple trees. 
Pears may also be removed, ff, if neglected until now. 
Form them to a compact head by cutting back a portion 
of last season's grow th ; this will also induce the tree to 
throw out fruit spurs. It is injurious to these or other 
trees to allow fruit to mature the first season after re¬ 
setting ; all the vigor is needed to recover from the ef¬ 
fects of disturbing and w ounding the roots, change of 
soil, etc. 
Plow lightly and frequently betw een the nursery row s. 
Do not leave a furrow lying for a long time against the 
bottom of the trunks. 
Plums—Set out, ff, if not already done. Cut out and 
bum all black knot excrescences. Dust the tree several 
times with air slaked lime, just as they are passing out of 
bloom, to drive away the curculio. It may be easily ap¬ 
plied from a small bag of thin muslin tied to a pole, and 
shaken about among the limbs. This method has proved 
successful in some cases. Occasional showerings with 
solution of whale-oil soap are also recommended. Re¬ 
peat the process twice a week until the plums are half 
grown. Let poultry have free access to the plum yard— 
they will turn the insects to profit. 
Pruning—Except removing small branches with a 
knife, wait now until mid-summer. If any large branch¬ 
es must be removed, coat with wax, etc., as directed last 
month. 
Seed Beds—Keep free from weeds, and shade evergreen 
and other tender sorts from the hot sun. The natural 
place for germination of tree seeds is under shelter, among 
the fallen leaves of the parent tree. Water occasionally 
during dry weather. 
Stocks of apple, pear, cherry, etc., should all be out, if 
not done, set them ff. 
Stools, that is, trees and shrubs kept to propagate from 
by layers, should now be spaded about, and the outer 
branches laid down, removing those which were layered 
last season, and are now rooted. With many shrubs this 
is the best method of increasing the stock. Quinces are 
now largely propagated in this manner. The upright 
grow th should be frequently cut back to induce suckers. 
Weeds—Treat them as intruders at all seasons. 
Milciiena and IFraaii 
Want of time is the excuse usually made for neglect of 
this department. This would be valid if time could be 
more profitably spent, but an exact account of the pro¬ 
duce of a well kept garden if devoted only to the culti¬ 
vation of common vegetables, would prove it to be the best 
paying plot of the whole farm. Lying as it does usual¬ 
ly near the house, it affords a convenient place to turn to 
account spare portions of lime—the hour before breakfast, 
an occasional spell between showers on a changeable 
I day when other labors are interrupted, etc., but i’s care 
Should not be left for these alone. Its cultivation ough 
to be calculated for as much as lioeing corn, haying, or 
harvesting. A well kept garden upon a homestead, like 
a neat show case on a merchant’s counter, is a sign of a 
good-assortment in the general stock, and contains itself 
the most attractive articles. The light reflected from the 
vegetables and fruits of a thrifty well assorted garden, 
gives cheerfulness in the kitchen, and satisfaction around 
the family board —that is an item worth reckoning. 
Gardeners in this latitude have generally, without doubt, 
improved the early opening of Spring, and beds arc com¬ 
pleted, and much of the seed sown according to sugges¬ 
tions of last month. Many things written then apply 
equally now, where the plants are not already growing. 
In arranging the plan, it is economical to lay out the 
grounds so that two or three successive crops can be 
taken from the same plot, as ; turnips to follow early 
peas, the potatoes first dug to be succeeded by late cab¬ 
bages ; radishes and lettuce to be scattered among hills 
of melons and other vines, etc. 
Asparagus now rapidly sending up its succulent shoots, 
should be kept cut to prolong the yield. Cut carefullv so 
as not to injure the shoots coming up. 
Beans—Plant pole and bush varieties, m, 1, cover light¬ 
ly with the eyes set downward. We prefer a trellis of 
wires or cords extending along stakes, to poles. Where 
poles are used, set them before planting. 
Beets—Sow, ff, m, in drills half an inch deep, eighteen 
inches apart. For Winter use sow, 11. Give them room 
to extend dow nward into rich, mellow soil. 
Blackberries—If not transplanted last month, set. them, 
ff, m. Stalie^up old canes or train them as described last 
month. Seeds of the blackberry should be sown, ff—last 
month was still better. Put them in mellow soil in drills 
eighteen inches apart, covering with half an inch of fine¬ 
ly pulverized earth. Soaking the seed for a few hours 
before planting will facilitate vegetation. Keepthe young 
plants free from weeds. They will be ready for trans¬ 
planting next Spring, and for fruiting the succeeding 
year. 
Borecole and Broccoli—Sow, ff, m, in rich soil and 
cover very lightly. Water if dry. Transplant from the 
hot-bed, f. 
Cabbage and Cauliflower—Sow, f, m, for late use in 
rich mellow ground. Plant out, ff, m, from hot-beds and 
cold frames if any remain. Scatter soot or dry ashes and 
lime over the seed rows to protect plants from the garden 
flea. Keep former plantings well hoed, and examine 
frequently for the cut worm. 
Carrots and Parsneps will go down deeply if encour¬ 
aged to do so by well trenched ground properly enriched. 
Sow, ff, if not already in as directed last month. 
Capsicums (Peppers)—Plant out from hot-bed, f, in. 
Set them in rows two feet apart, eighteen inches distant 
in the row. 
Celery—Sow, ff, m, for late use. Set early plants, m, 
1, in trenches a foot to eighteen inches deep ; water and 
shade them until fairly started. June will be early enough 
to transplant the main crop. 
Cold Frames—Remove any remaining plants to open 
grounds, ff, m, and store the frames for another year. 
Corn—Plant small plots of sweet varieties, f, m, I, at 
intervals of a w eek or ten days, to ripen in succession. 
Cucumbers—Transplant those started in hot-beds as 
directed last month, f, m. Plant seeds, ff', m, for Summer 
use and 1, for later crop and pickling. Place over the young 
plants light frames covered with rnillinet, to protect 
from insects ; or if these arc not used, visit early in the 
morning, and destroy them with the thumb and fingker 
Sprinkling the plants with water saturated w ith hen drop¬ 
pings, assists in keeping off insects, and in hastening the. 
growth. Put in abundance of seed at. intervals, to feed, 
the insects that escape. They can be thinned out when 
danger is past. 
Currants—Finish planting, ff. Remove all dead ami 
decaying branches. Wash water and house slops throw n 
around the bushes will benefit them, and remove a nui¬ 
sance too often seen near the back door. 
Egg Plants—Set out from the hot-bed as soon as the 
weather is warm and settled, usually about m. They 
will not bear cold. 
Fruit Trees—Train wall and espaliers to proper form, 
cutting back as needed. Rub offshoots appearing out of 
place. 
Grapes—Secure them to stakes, trellises, or arbors. 
Lead wire is excellent for this purpose ; it yields easily 
so that the vine is not cut, and may be readily tw isted in 
fastening. Vines may still be set, ff. 
Herbs—Set any remaining roots, ff. 
Iloe frequently about early vegetables to destroy weeds 
and keep the surface porous. Young plants just pushing 
through the surface are often injured by a hard crust 
