AME-RICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
959 
I 860 ] 
liest and best specimens for seed. Gather daily while 
young, for pickles. 
Grapes—Pick for market or for wine making, as they 
ripen. Those intended to be packed for Winter use, may 
be left upon the vines until the time of frosts. 
Hoe growing crops, as turnips, cabbages, etc , to de¬ 
stroy all weeds, and keep the soil light. 
Hops—Gather and dry, ff, m, and house the poles. 
Lettuce sown, ff, will yield late grow th for the table. 
Sow, mm, 1, to be removed to cold frames next month. 
Manures—Turn every source of home manufacture to 
account, rather than depend on buying. By commencing 
thus early, a good quantity may be stored for use next 
season. 
Melons—Place pieces of board under those ripening— 
they lose flavor on the side in contact with the ground. 
Pick as fast as they ripen, otherwise the best aroma will 
be lost. Save seeds of the earliest and best. 
Mushrooms—Make beds or prepare barrels, m, 1. 
Onions—Pull and dry as they ripen. Sow seed, f, m, 
for plants to be protected during Winter to come on 
early in Spring. 
Parsley—Sow, ff, m, for use in Spring. 
Pickles—Collect for pickling, cucumbers, tomatoes 
both ripe and green, Winter Cherries, peppers, nastur¬ 
tiums, etc., etc. 
Radishes—Sow, ff, m, for Pall, and, 11, for Winter use. 
Raspberries— Follow directions of last month. Collect 
and house stakes for use next year. 
Rhubarb—A few stalks may still be pulled from the 
Linnaeus variety for present use, or for preserving in 
bottles. 
Seeds—Gather, clean, put up in papers and label dis¬ 
tinctly, as fast as they ripen. Keep them dry, dark, cool, 
and out of the reach of vermin. Save finest specimens of 
oeets, turnips, carrots, cabbages, etc., for raising seed 
next Spring. 
Spinage—Sow, ff, and thin out, m, 11, for standing over 
Winter. A small bed sown now will yield early returns 
at a season when “ greens ” will be highly valued. 
Squashes—Save seed of early varieties which are now 
fully ripened. Gather later sorts as they mature. Secure 
all from early frosts. 
Strawberries may still be transplanted, ff, m. They 
w ill get a fair start before frost, although August is pref¬ 
erable for making new beds. Give plenty of water to 
young plants, and keep the surface well loosened. 
Tomatoes are now in full yield. Market as they ma¬ 
ture. They are very easily preserved in bottles, and 
will be much prized in Winter and early Spring. 
Turnips—Keep late crops well hoed. Thin out if any 
are crowded. A dressing of bone dust hoed in will be 
beneficial. * 
Weeds—Allow none to go to seed upon the premises— 
it will save much extra labor next year. Gather all which 
are hoed or pulled up, for the manure heap. 
Winter Cherries—Collect daily as they ripen and fall. 
Preserve those not wanted for immediate use—they make 
an excellent sauce. They may also be kept enclosed in 
the hulls, by packing them between layers of cotton. 
Flower CSardena asad Lsiwta. 
The flower borders and pleasure grounds should lose 
none of their beauty in September. As if to compensate 
for a loss in number, many of the late bloomers are rich¬ 
er in their coloring, and finer in their forms than the 
earlier flowers. Nor do the blooms so soon fade ; the 
frequent rains, heavy dews, and cooler nights, preserve 
them longer in beauty. The dahlia and chrysanthemum 
are good examples both of beauty and long continued 
bloom, while many of the bedding plants have lost none 
of their charms. That' no unsightly objects may meet 
the eye, go through all the departments once a week, at 
least, and cut away all flower stalks which have per¬ 
formed their office, except those intended to produce 
seed. Pick off also the dried up blooms and seed cap¬ 
sules not wanted, which will often throw the plant into 
flower again, besides making it much more attractive. 
The present month is a favorable season to arrange for 
laying out new grounds. Manure can be applied, the 
soil plowed, spaded, or trenched, as may be needed, drain 
tiles put in, and the avenues and walks laid out, so that 
•,rees and shrubbery can be set next month. 
Towards the end of the month some of the more ten¬ 
der green-house and parlor plants, will need to be return¬ 
ed to their Winter quarters, as even a slight frost or a 
chilly night would injure them. Care should be taken to 
guard against too sudden a change from sunshine and air 
to the shade and closeness of a house. Keep all the ven¬ 
tilators and doors open at all suitable times, and water 
liberally. 
Bulb Beds—Make and plant these, m, 1. They are 
easily grown without the elaborate and laborious process 
often advised in the books. Any good garden soil will 
answer for bulbs. If wet, drain it, or raise the beds. A 
little sand, muck, and cow manure well worked into the 
soil, if compact, fits it to receive the plants. Lay out a bed 
in any desired form—an oval or circle is a good shape— 
set crown imperials, hyacinths and tulips in the centre, 
planting 3 to 4 inches deep and 9 inches apart. Finish 
with narcissus, crocuses and snow-drops, setting these 
last 3 inches apart and 1} inches deep to the crowns. Of 
course the outer circle should be of the lowest growing 
varieties, and all should be arranged with reference to 
the different colors. If sand is easily obtained, place a 
handful around and over each bulb at the time of set¬ 
ting. In selecting from a collection, choose those which 
are bright and firm, in preference to any which have be¬ 
gun to grow. 
Bedding Plants—Many of these, such as geraniums, 
fuchsias, lantanas, carnations, etc., may be taken up, 11, 
cut back strong, and set thickly in boxes of earth and 
placed in a cool, dry cellar to spend the Winter. They 
will be stronger in the Spring and give a fuller bloom 
than plants recently made from cuttings. 
Chrysanthemums require careful staking now, or they 
will be blown down. Remove weak shoots and prune 
side branches from those trained to a single stem. A full 
bloom may soon be expected. 
Cuttings ofboth woody and succulent plants should be 
made early in the month so as to have a full stock to be¬ 
gin the Winter, in-doors. Make the soil light and sandy, 
insert the cuttings thickly, one third of their length, and 
cover with a hand or bell glass to prevent rapid drying. 
A hot-bed frame and sash answer the same purpose. 
Whitewash the glass for a partial shade, and remove it 
entirely at night. 
Dahlias give the finest blooms late in the season when 
the nights are cool. On this account many prefer late 
planting. The early ones usually have a few specimens 
of imperfect flowers during the heat of Summer, and 
seldom bloom as freely in Autumn as the late planted ones. 
They should be in their glory during September, and 
are really a splendid flower although called “common” 
by some gardeners. Unless well tied to stakes they are 
blown about and much injured by the high winds which 
prevail during this month. Pick off the dry flowers, or 
seed capsules, as fast as the bloom fades. 
Evergreens—Some planters advocate setting during 
this month, as there is less liability of a drouth than in 
Spring. After the losses from those planted in May- 
owing to the long continued dry weather—the advocates 
of Fall planting are strengthened in their belief. We 
still prefer the Spring, but if Fall planting is practiced, 
set the trees, f, m, in cloudy or wet days, disturbing the 
roots as little as possible. 
Flower Pits—Construct, m, 11, for safely keeping ten¬ 
der varieties over Winter, where there are no properly 
constructed houses. 
Geraniums and Fuchsias —Cuttings may still be struck 
in quantity, for a Winter stock. 
Gravel Walks, Drives, etc.—Keep as free from weeds 
and grass, and as well raked, as earlier in the season. 
Hedges—The principal shearing, according to the ad¬ 
vice previously given, has been upon the top, so that the 
bottom is now thick and well set. Shorten in the base 
and leave for Winter. 
Lawn—Keep neat and clean, mowing and raking occa¬ 
sionally. Scatter seed over any thin spots. 
Lilies, PoBonies, Dicentra, and other perennial bulbous 
or tuberous rooted plants which have done blooming, may 
be divided and reset, m, 11. 
Roses—Bud, ff, any omitted last month, and still to be 
changed. Inarching is a more desirable method to intro¬ 
duce several varieties upon one standard. The stocks 
can be brought in proper positions in pots. 
Seeds—Watch their ripening and collect before they 
are wasted on the ground. Mark each package with care. 
Trees are now ripening the present season’s growth and 
preparing for Winter. Late heading back is not advisa¬ 
ble, it induces new shoots which will not harden off suffi¬ 
ciently before cold weather, 
Verbenas and Petunias—Pot layers, f, m, to preserve a 
stock for Winter and early Spring bloom. Layers may 
still be made by simply covering a part of the base of the 
straggling branches, which readily take root. 
Weeds—Allow none to seed the ground late in the sea¬ 
son. Keep them well hoed up, both on their own account 
and to stir the soil about the growing plants. 
CSreenii annsd!. Mot-ilouases. 
The first thing to be done this month, is to put the 
houses, frames, pits and conservatories in perfect order 
for receiving plants. Give a thorough fumigation and 
syringing to destroy insects. Arrange the pulleys, re¬ 
place the broken glass, batten or otherwise stop ar.y 
cracks, repair the furnaces, flues, and hot water pipes, 
cleanse, whitewash and paint the wood work so that every 
thing may be in perfect repair, sweet and clean, for the 
reception of the Winter p'ants, some of which will need 
housing by the middle of the month, or as soon as the 
mercury falls to 40°. A large quantity of leaf mold, 
loam and sand should also be collected to use now and 
during the Winter. If possible have it mixed some 
w eeks before use—months would bo still better.—Pro¬ 
vide a good supply of pots of different sizes. 
Everything being complete, and the paint well harden¬ 
ed, commence bringing in and arranging the plants, f, 
m, according as the weather is warm, or cool, beginning 
with the most tender varieties. Place the taller plants 
on the back shelves, and low kinds in front, bearing in 
mind at the same time that some varieties require more 
light than others. Arrange them near or at a distance 
from the furnace as they need a strong or light heat. A 
dry shelf should contain those plants which require very 
little water, including most ofthe bulbous kinds. Having 
brought them all in before cool nights have checked their 
growth, it w ill be necessary to admit abundance of 
Air by the upper and lower ventilators, closing at night 
during cool weather. The change from a free exposure 
will be great, at best, and should be counteracted as 
much as possible by airing freely. 
Annuals may be sown at intervals during the month to 
furnish a variety of bloom in Winter. 
Bulbs—Pot, ff, m, and keep in a cool place to be taken 
to the forcing apartments as wanted. They make a fine 
show when blooming at intervals during the Winter. 
Camellias should be repotted, ff. They are now be¬ 
ginning to grow and require frequent waterings. It is 
not too late to bud and inarch. 
Fire heat may be needed in some apartments, m, 1, to 
expel dampness and raise the temperature. 
Grapes—Those in the forcing houses have been cut, 
and cold graperies are ripening their fruit, while in the 
retarding houses the berries have not yet began to color. 
The treatment must be governed by the different stages 
of growth, giving little water and abundance of air to 
those ripening, and frequent syringings to the later ones. 
Potting—Most of the plants will need repotting when 
brought in, although they have been growing in pots dur¬ 
ing the Summer. They will do better with a change of 
soil, and quite likely they require more room. But the 
large number of plants set in the borders in the Spring 
are all to be potted now. They should be shaded after 
the operation and watered freely. Many of the plants 
will be benefitted by cutting back. 
Apiary in September. 
BY M. QUINBY. 
Bees will add nothing to their stores, in most places, 
after the 10th of this month. In a few favored localities, 
where but few stocks are kept, and an abundance of 
golden rod is found, they may increase their stores till Oct. 
As soon as flowers cease to yield honey, the bees will be 
on the lookout for a supply from other sources. The 
strongest stocks in the yard are the worst of any. One 
would think, judging by their actions—that such were on 
the point of starvation, but it is only the principle of 
“ much wanting more.” Every hive should be examined 
now—it may be too late next week. Bees sometimes de¬ 
teriorate very fast. It will not do to suppose because a 
stock was first rate in May, and sent out three or four 
swarms, that it is therefore in the same condition at this 
season. See what they are now. All defenceless ones— 
the weak colonies—should be put out of harm’s way at 
once, before other bees are tempted into bad habits. The 
neighbors tiiat complain of “first rate hives being robbed,” 
should give seasonable attention to this point. Adopt the 
rule to expose no refuse honey, or allow no swarms but 
those strong enough to remain after honey fails. Bees 
will not begin to rob strong stocks on the start. If it 
could be understood that the man who had his bees rob¬ 
bed in the Fall, was alone to blame, we should hear less 
complaint. 
A colony too w eak to defend its stores now, can not 
be wintered with all possible attention, and should be 
put out of the way. Two or three weak ones maybe 
united, when standing near together, and by feeding ju¬ 
diciously, may be wintered. Any hive yet remaining 
queenless, uninjured by the moth, wdth stores sufficient 
for wintering a colony, may have the bees and queen 
from some condemned stock or swarm introduced. A 
new swarm that has worked combs without a queen, w ill 
have too much drone comb to make a profitable stock, 
and should be broken up, even though it has stores suffi¬ 
cient for Winter. A part of the honey in such hive, will 
be beautifully white, while another part will be nearly 
all bee-bread, not sealed; this is worthless. Another por- 
