1800.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
3^3 
Blackberry plants may be set while the ground re¬ 
mains open; it is better to put them in earlier. 
Cabbages and Cauliflowers — Harvest the late crop 
and store in collars, or bury them in Ihc open field. 
Place young plants in cold frames. 
Carrots—Dig and store the remaining crops, ff. 
Celery—Continue to earth up, ff, in dry weather. 
Harvest, m , l. Stand it upright on level ground and 
cover with earth. Allow no earth to fall between 
the stalks. 
Cold Frames—Prepare for use, ff, and set in them, 
f , in, the cabbage, cauliflower, lettuce plants, etc., 
requiring Winter protection. Cover with glass ox- 
shutters during cold nights, but keep open by day 
as long as the weather will admit. When Winter 
sets in, cover secm-ely, banking up about the sides, 
and put straw, leaves, etc., over them to exclude 
frost. Every mild day, open for a short time. 
Currants and Gooseberries—Plant roots of im¬ 
proved varieties, ff, m. Divide and reset those that 
have become an unproductive hedge. Fork up the 
ground around the roots, to destroy insects. If they 
have proved very troublesome, replace the soil with 
fresh earth. Give a coating of manure to protect 
and stimulate the roots. 
Drain and trench heavy soils; they may thus be 
worked earlier in Spring. 
Figs—Bank up about the trunks, and bend, and 
.cover the branches with earth or straw. 
Fruit Trees—Plant in all suitable places. 
Grape Vines—Plant roots and layers, j?', m. Prune 
and preserve the cuttings in boxes of earth for 
planting itext year. Take vines from the trellis, 
and cover them with straw or earth. 
Mice—Guard against their intrusion into the cold 
frames. Dishes of meal, poisoned with arsenic, 
will soon dispose of them. 
Onions—Cover with litter those left in the ground 
during Winter. 
Parsneps and Salsafy are improved by leaving in 
the ground until Spring. Dig, in, l, for use in Win¬ 
ter, and cover them with earth in the cellar. 
Poles, stakes, frames, etc., should all be gathered 
and housed for future use. 
Raspberries—Plant out, If, if not done last month. 
Cover canes of tender sorts witli an inch or so of 
earth. 
Rhubarb—Set roots and crowns, ff] m. Cover 
with coarse stable manure, to protect the roots and 
enrich the soil. 
Spinach—Hoe and thin the plants, and cover 
with straw or other litter. 
Strawberry Beds—Cover lightly with leaves,, or 
coarse litter. An inch iix depth is ample. 
Turnips—Gather before injured by frost, and store 
for household use and for feeding to stock. 
Flower Gfst'deia imil ILfswss. 
In some localities, especially at the South, the di¬ 
rections of last month have not been completed, 
and are the first to claim attention. Every prepa¬ 
ration for Winter should be made early, before se¬ 
vere frosts injure the plants. The half hardy 
varieties are now to be removed to pits, covered 
with straw or evergreen boughs, or laid down and 
covered with earth. 
If the bulbs have not been planted, lose no time, 
but put them in at once, as advised lastmonth, and 
under “ Hyacinths ” on a subsequent page. Set out 
a good supply of them, as they will be certain to 
.please, when in bloom in early Spring. 
Chi-ysanthemums are hi early the only flowers 
which have survived the repeated frosts. It is now 
that their chief attractions are brought out as 
lengtheners of the floral seasons. As soon as the 
flowers are killed by frost, the roots may be divid¬ 
ed axxd reset. They will make a better show if trans¬ 
planted this Fall, than if left until Spring. Car¬ 
ry a few into the houses for a Winter bloom. 
Climbers—Most of these, like the wistaria, ivy, 
honeysuckle, climbing rose, etc., come out fresher 
iv hiring, when taken from trellises and laid upon 
the ground. A slight covering of earth, straw, or 
leaves, will still further protect them. 
Dahlias and gladioluses have probably been killed 
by frost, and the roots should be carefully lifted, 
and put in a cool, dry cellar, or other place out of 
the reach of frost. We prefer keeping them in 
boxes of dry earth or sand. If too damp, they will 
mold, and when very dry, they shrivel. A good 
vegetable cellar is a suitable place for them. 
Flower stalks, annual climbers, and any decaying 
plants, or those which have completed their bloom, 
should be removed as unsightly objects. Put every¬ 
thing in neat order for Winter. 
Frames and pits should be in readiness for tender 
plants, ff. See directions on a subsequent page. 
Hedges may still be planted on well drained soils, 
ff'. Leave evergreen hedges until next Spring. 
Lawn—Rake off all rubbish, and give a coating of 
manure to protect the roots and enrich the soil. 
Ornamental Work, such as vases, baskets, urns, 
statues, wire works, etc., should now be stored un¬ 
der cover. Repaint those needing it. 
Perennials will give a finer bloom another season, 
if transplanted now, rather than next Spring. Di¬ 
vide the roots of such as are to be increased in 
numbei-. Pceonies, lilies, and a few other plants 
will flower feebly, if 6et in Spring. 
Roses—Protect tender ones by laying down, and 
covering with earth or leaves ; or they may be pot¬ 
ted, and carried to the cellar or pit. If to bloom in 
Wintei-, set them in a cool place for a rest; after¬ 
ward expose them to a moderate warmth. Climb¬ 
ing and pillar roses, even if hardy, will show a bet¬ 
ter bloom next Summer, if laid upon the ground 
during the Winter ; no covering is needed. 
Shrubs and Ornamental Trees—Plant,//, m, in 
appropriate places upon the lawn and along the 
borders. They usually give the finest effect when 
set in clumps or masses. 
drecEB ami Iffot-Mcascs. 
Where there are two or more houses, some for 
merely keeping the plants alive, or securing a mod¬ 
erate growth, and others for increasing a stock by 
propagation, or forcing them into a Winter bloom, 
the treatment must be varied essentially, and gen¬ 
eral directions only can be given. Some extensive 
propagators have a rose house, a camellia house, a 
house for a few of the tropical plants nearly allied 
to each other, an orchid house, several houses for 
grapes, etc., amounting to acres covered with build¬ 
ings, and only an expei-icnced person can attend to 
them successfully. In general terms, each house 
must he managed with reference to its contents, 
and the objects to be attained. 
Having put .the Green-house proper in order, and 
stored it with those jfiants needing Winter protec¬ 
tion, or which are only to be forced at a future 
time, attend particularly to ventilation, as the 
change from o.ut-door air to a confined room should 
not be suddenly made. During rains, fogs, and 
frosty weather, the doors and windows should be 
closed, and, before the end of the month, some fire 
heat will be beneficial. Little water will be needed, 
and but little care in other respects; the plants may 
be left to a quiot rest. The decayed leaves should 
be picked off as they appear, and every thing be 
kept neat. A good stock of bulbs should be potted 
to be taken to the forcing house at intervals for a 
Winter bloom. Tlxe green-house is also the appro¬ 
priate place for keeping a supply of the various 
plants to be taken to warmer apartments for flower¬ 
ing during the Winter. 
The Hot-house should be attractive even thus 
early in (he season, as many of the blooming plants 
have not .ceased to flower since their removal from 
the borders, and others are coming into bloom. A 
nearly unifogm heat should be maintained, ranging 
from 55° to 05°, or even 70° in some collections. 
One of the first things requiring attention, is to have 
a full stock of young thrifty plants put in a grow¬ 
ing condition, to furnish a succession of bloom dur¬ 
ing the entire Winter. A variety of annuals should 
be sown at intervals, for the same purpose. Some 
ol those put in last month, arc now ready to pot, 
and in a few weeks a full bloom may be expected. 
Bulbs should be brought from cooler apartments 
only as they are wanted to bloom. They may be 
put singly in glasses, or small pots, or several of 
them may he grown in a large pot. 
Camellias are beginning to push out anew, and 
some of the flower buds are well swollen. Syringe 
and water more freely, giving them light and air. 
Fires will need careful attention, as a little neg 
lcct often causes mueli mischief. Most of the 
plants being tender, a near approach to the freezing 
point will check their growth, while too much heat 
will unduly force or scorch them. A thermometer 
is an indispensable requisite. If a stove is used, 
keep a tank of open water to supply moisture by 
evaporation. This is not as essential with hot water 
or steam pipes. 
Grapes—Prune and lay down, or tie up vines 
which have ripened their wood. Give them a sea¬ 
son of rest now. If the roots are in an outside bor¬ 
der, cover them with manure, straw, etc. 
Insects—Keep them in cheek at the beginning, or 
they will increase rapidly. Hand picking, syring¬ 
ing, and tobacco fumes are appropriate antidotes. 
Pots, Tubs, and Boxes, containing growing plants, 
should be frequently examined. Keep the drainage 
open, remove weeds and moss, loosen the soil and 
add liquid manure or rich earth to those plants 
which are flagging. Prune or pinch to a good form, 
;md have them all arranged in a convenient hand¬ 
some order—the lower growing varieties in front. 
Soil for potting should be liberally provided for 
immediate use and for future wants, as it improves 
by long keeping. 
Verbenas, Pelargoniums, Petunias, Salvias, and 
other bedding plants, should be layered now, or 
cuttings inserted to provide a supply for Winter 
flowering, and for planting out in the Spi-ing. 
Water — Give moderately, more to rapid growing 
plants, than to those which aye resting. Syringe 
the floors and walls frequently, to induce evapoi-- 
ation. 
Apiary la November. 
BY M. QUINBY. 
The mice will begin to commit depredations in 
the hives of some of the weakest stocks during the 
cool nights of this moixth. Their work may be 
known by crumbs of comb under the hives. Set 
traps for them at once, and have them out of the 
way, or they will prove troublesome during the 
Winter_If feeding the needy stocks has been neg¬ 
lected till now, it will be necessary to improve 
every warm day, until it is completed. It can not 
he done in severe weather, without having them in 
the house, and then it is not good economy to dis¬ 
turb them. Prepare material for hives, that it may 
be well seasoned. Hives that are to be painted, 
should be finished as long before hand, as possible, 
even now would be none to soon. Bees seem to 
dislike the odor of oil. A dark color should be 
avoided. Three or four of the lighter colors are 
better than only one, and when such hives are used, 
the different colors should alternate, that each bee 
may better know its own hive. The young queens 
in their excursions to meet the drones, are very 
liable to get lost on their retxu'n, without some dis¬ 
tinguishing mark about the hive, to designate whore 
they belong.Any one contemplating obtaining 
the Italian bee, should also have the movable comb 
hive. Without it, one half the advantage can not 
be realized. There are half a dozen or more patents 
on this principle, any one of which is superior to 
the common box, for those who know how to take 
advantage of them. The bee keeper with hives 
which enable him to bring every bee and cell into 
view, and then return them to the hive without in¬ 
jury, is much more likely to become interested in 
bee culture, than those having only the old box. 
We are told that the Italian bee is much more mild 
— less disposed to sting—than the common sort; if 
so, I see no good reason why every bee keeper 
should not understand the whole subject li cun 
center to circumference. 
