1862.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
67 
Cuttings of hardy shrubs, etc., such as altheas, spiraeas, 
weigelias, forsytluas, lonicferas aiid the like, may be taken 
offearlyinthe month before the buds swell. Keep in 
boxes of earth or sand in the cellar until planting. 
•Bulb beds which had a coating of manure, leaves, or 
straw given them for a Winter protection, may be par¬ 
tially or wholly uncovered, toward the latter part of the 
month; whatever covering they have during March should 
be light and strawy. 
Pruning of roses, and other flowering shrubs, and climb¬ 
ing plants may be done at once. Each plant should be 
cut back with reference to its flowering habit. By strong¬ 
ly heading back >those shrubs which only yield flowers 
upon the terminal branches or on the old wood, as the 
magnolia, spiraea, etc., the bloom is nearly destroyed. 
Roses, especially remontants (or “semi-occasional” 
bloomers) may be cut back severely, and a finer Autumn 
bloom is the result. 
Box Edgings—May be re-set as soon as the soil is in 
condition to work. Spread each plant out somewhat 
fan-shaped, clip off the tops even, and prune the root 
'very close, setting in trench by a line, in sand to secure 
quick rooting, and pack the earth about the plants with a 
mallet or pounder. 
Grass borders, and turfing generally, may be laid or re¬ 
paired very early in the season better than later. Let the 
soil below be mellow, and pack the sods so closely and 
firmly that there shall be no crevices. 
Manure may be purchased at this season rather more 
favorably, considering every thing, than at any other time. 
Manure evenly applied upon the land, whether leached or 
unleached ashes, nitrates, guano, or ammoniacal water, 
will each and all produce good results, and the present is 
the best time to manure shrubbery and ornamental trees 
of all kinds for which coarser manures may be used. 
Hot-Beds made for starting cuttings, and for sowing 
seeds are quite indispensable on a large place. Green cut¬ 
tings, or those of soft wooded plants, need considerable 
bottom heat, and to be kept cool at top until they strike 
root. Avoid excess of moisture, and give good ventila¬ 
tion, gradually hardening them until they are planted out. 
Green and Hot-Mouses. 
The green-houses and conservatories should now be 
very attractive, although some of the more showy plants 
will have gone out of bloom. Everything should be kept 
neat, with no rubbish, plant trimmings, dead leaves, moss 
covered pots or boxes, left upon the floor or shelves, or 
dust suffered to collect upon the leaves. The rooms 
should be aired frequently when the weather is suitable, 
avoiding a chilling draft directly upon the plants. 
Heat must be regulated according to the object in 
view. If the house is merely a receptacle of plants de¬ 
signed to be kept from the frost, and which are to bloom 
in the open borders, then a moderate fire heat, with the 
thermometer from 40° to 45°, is sufficient. With a col¬ 
lection intended for present flowering, or for inducing a 
rapid growth to use when the out-door planting season 
arrives, a Summer temperature of 65° to 75° is needed ; 
and for orchids and other tropical plants, as also for prop¬ 
agating purposes, the houses or rooms may have a tem¬ 
perature of 90° in the sunshine, which must be allowed 
to faU off naturally at night. 
Acacias, heaths, azaleas, and epacris, should be shaded 
from the direct rays of the sun. 
Annuals—Sow in pots as occasion offers, for turning 
out into the borders in May. 
Bedding Plants—Push forward those started last 
month, pinching in and regulating their shape. 
Cacti—Water those showing flower. 
Camelias—Those which have done flowering, examine 
for red spider ; wash foliage, syringe, and prime. 
Carnations—Make cuttings, set out the old plants for 
layers ; never keep plants more than one Winter. 
Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums, etc., may be now propa¬ 
gated by cuttings from the new wood. Repot and 
prune established plants. 
Geraniums, pelargoniums, Chinese primroses, cinera¬ 
rias in or near bloom, keep near the glass, turning fre¬ 
quently. 
Insects—Destroy by washing and tobacco fumes. 
Pansies are best kept in cold frames, and should be 
aired and kept back by not admitting the light and heat. 
Parlor Plants require even more . care than those of 
the Hot-House. It is an excellent plan to set the pots in 
larger ones of the same material or of tin, and cover the 
earth with moss to retain moisture. They will also re¬ 
quire frequent turning, especially if growing near the 
window, to keep them in an. erect position. See that the 
drainage is good and only enough water given to keep the 
plants in a healthy state ; the surface soil may have a dry 
appearance when there is sufficient moisture at the root. 
Be sure that there is abundant water always evaporating 
in the room, or in connection with the fire. 
Roses—Established cuttings and plants for early out¬ 
door blooming, need re-potting. 
Water is required in proportion to the growth of plants. 
As most plants are now pushing out vigorously, syringe 
the walls and foliage of plants, and wet the floors to in¬ 
duce a moist atmosphere from evaporation. It will also 
tend to keep insects in check. The water should not be 
of a much lower temperature than the atmosphere of the 
Grapery and Orchard-Mouse. 
Cold graperies should be thoroughly whitewashed, mix¬ 
ing flower of sulphur with the wash; the vines may be 
lifted as the weather moderates, air given on fine days, and 
the borders watered with liquid manure. Do not tie up to 
the rafters until all the buds have pushed equally, and 
keep the house moist when buds are breaking. In more 
advanced houses, give abundant air, especially where 
there is bloom; syringe often; thin out superfluous 
branches. 
Orchard Houses—Give trees in pots and tubs liquid ma¬ 
nure in moderate quantities, syringe walls and floors 
often, and give air freely on mild days. Thin out the 
fruit. Trees rooted in the ground require manuring and 
watering quite freely. • 
Apiary in March. 
Prepared by M, Quiriby—by request. 
The bees will begin to fly pretty freely this month, and 
in many places to collect pollen. In some sections but 
little is to be obtained until quite late, yet the weather is 
often warm enough for extensive breeding in good stocks, 
if pollen is abundant. The utility of flour as a substitute 
for pollen is pretty well established. It is difficult, some¬ 
times, to get them to take it, especially when offered after 
a little is obtained from the flowers, but when given early, 
and a taste for it acquired, they will use large quantities. 
If it were of no use whatever after being taken into the 
hive, I still think it would pay, by keeping the bees em¬ 
ployed while they might be getting into mischief by quar¬ 
reling with, or robbing some of the weaker colonies of the 
yard, and destroying large numbers. To feed the flour, 
make a floor several feet square, the size proportioned to 
the number of stocks. Put it in some warm place within 
a few rods of the apiary. The unbolted wheat flour is 
best, but not essential, any kind of flour will probably do ; 
buckwheat, I am informed, has been used extensively. If 
it has been bolted, mix it with saw-dust, chaff, oats, straw 
finely cut, or any light substance to prevent its adhering 
too readily to their bodies. Begin by scattering some on 
the ground or in the grass near the floor; they will usual¬ 
ly find it in a few hours. Keep them busy by feeding 
every fair day. Perhaps a little caution is necessary not 
to feed too much. Although I have never been able to 
find any left in the combs at the end of the season, or to 
discover any bad effect from giving too much, yet I ap¬ 
prehend their combs might be filled with it to the exclu¬ 
sion of brood. It would probably be safe to give what 
would average two or three pounds to the hive. 
If warm weather should make the bees in the house 
uneasy, the room should be cooled, and the bees quieted, 
by putting snow or ice on the floor, until a fine day occurs 
for putting them out. For removing them, choose a clear 
warm day. When practicable let each hive occupy its 
old stand. Set out a dozen, and two hours later, as many 
more. Put the first as far apart as possible, and fill up 
the vacant stands as others are afterwards brought out; 
they will mix together less in the confusion of their first 
issuing, and a less number be lost by entering the wrong 
hive on returning. Any stock having lost its queen dur¬ 
ing Winter, will be likely to show it near evening of the 
first day they fly out freely, by running about in apparent 
confusion. A queenless colony now should be united with 
some feeble stock, unless the queenless one is much su¬ 
perior in numbers, and in other respects will make the 
best stock; in which case, that should receive the bees 
from the other. The combs and honey of a queenless 
hive, if all right, may be set away for a new swarm, tak¬ 
ing care to smoke with brimstone once or twice to destroy 
the worms as they hatch out. If the colony that con¬ 
tains the queen is the one removed, there will be some 
broou in the combs necessary to be taken out before put¬ 
ting away. Be careful and not save for a new swarm any 
combs containing foul brood. Ascertain the strength of 
each stock by thorough examination some cool morning. 
Contract the entrance of the weak ones, till only a single 
bee can pass at once. Watch for robbing bees on the first 
warm days—it requires close observation to detect it at 
first. Ascertain which are destitute of stores, and feed as 
they require it, taking care not to expose any honey where 
other bees may get to it. 
Seeds for Free Distribution to all Subscri¬ 
bers for 1862 (Vol. 21.). 
Every subscriber to the Agriculturist for 1862, is invited to 
select four or five parcels of seeds from the list below. 
These seeds are all valuable. Of the 90 kinds offered, 
many are new varieties, but we include some common useful 
sorts for convenience of those without access to good seeds. 
Most of them are annuals (reproducing seed the first sea¬ 
son), and in all cases there will be enough to yield a good 
supply for future use. Our aim is, to furnish the germs of fu¬ 
ture abundance in each locality where these seeds go. 
Many of these seeds were grown by ourselves, the past 
year; the others are obtained of the best growers here and 
in Europe. The distribution is now going on—will close soon 
Mode of Distribution.—The seeds may be called 
for at the office, or be applied for by mail at anytime now 
The postage is only 1 cent per ounce under 1500 
miles ; and 3 cents per ounce when over 1500 
miles. 
Those sending for seeds to be forwarded by mail, will 
please carefully observe the following 
DIRECTIONS—(1). Select from the list below, any four 
or five parcels desired, and write plainly on a slip of paper the 
numbers (only) of the kinds of seeds wanted. (These num. 
bers are used on our seed drawers, seed bags, etc.) 
(3) Enclose the slip in a prepared envelope—directed in full 
to your own address, as here shown, and put upon it post- 
a| e s Stam p s^o s the amount of one ce nt f<yr each. 
under 
?Most S places 'West"of lthe'Missis 
river are over 1500 miles.) 'Pf.B' 
total amount of stamps requii 
be reckoned fr.— *'■- *-»■’- - 
below. Any 
ounces will D« 
ing to distani 
table of 
the above 
t stamps accord- 
tins office)' and’tlfeseeds'*wiiT be'encfose^fa^cording toVie 
numbers on the enclosed slip. To save letter postage, let 
there be no marks on the envelopes except the address and 
stamps. About 2 ounces will go m a common sized envelope 
Field, and Vegetable Darden Seeds. 
Eo. Weight of package. 
185—Long Bearded Spring Wheat - 
3—Improved King Philip Corn.. 
141-Darling’s Early Sweet Corn... 
18G—Evergreen Sweet Corn. 
98—Long Red Mangel Wurzel. . 
.. About one 
. About one 
...About one 
mt one-eighth ounce 
ut one-eighth ounr - 
...About one ounc 
.. About one ount 
. ..About one oum 
. .About one ounc 
189— Spelt or German Wheat... 
190— Nepaul Barley. 
8— Daniel O’Rourke Pea. 
9— Champion of England Pea. 
99—Prince Albert Pea. 
13-Green Kohl Rabi. _ _ _ _ 
13—Enfield Market Cabbage... About one-fourth ounce! 
145—Flat Dutch' (Winter) Cabbage.About one-fourth ounce. 
193—Improved Stone-mason Cabbage;... .one-fourth ounce. 
199—Red Dutch Cabbage.About one-fourth ounce. 
G4—Extra early Round Turnip Radish; one-fourth or" — 
150—Early Paris Cauliflower.About one-eighth or 
147—Neapolitan Cabbage Lettuce. ..About one-fourth ounc 
To-r^ported Brussels Sprouts. ...About oiie-eighth ounc 
.provedLong Orange Carrot. ..About — - 
~ong dark Blood Beet. ... ‘ ’— J 
149—Extra early Bassano Beet. 
95—Hubbard Squr - 
193—Fejee & Italic 
73—Imported Brussels Sprouts. ...About one-eighth out 
j,01—Improved Long Orange Carrot. ..About onedialf oui 
148—Loug dark Blood Beet.About one-half out 
-*49—Extra early Bassano Beet.About oue-half our 
95—Hubbard Squash, pure.About one-fourth oui 
T ^ i "" Fed Tomato...About one-eighth oun. 
.Melon.About one-eighth ounc 
. „ ------JMuskmelon.About one-eiglith ounc 
194—Hollow Crown Parsnip.About one-fourth ounc 
154r-dce_____ _JHK 
76—Skillman’s NettedMuskmelon. About one-eiglith ounce 
,94—HollOW CrOWnParonin . ihmt -- 
66-Extra Curled PaWMI __ _ 
151—Yellow Danvers Onion........ About one-fourth oi 
About one 
-- About on; 
153—Fine Large Cheese Pumpkin. About on< 
17—Red Strap-Leaf Turnip.About one-iourm oi 
71—Long White French Turnip.... About one-half oi 
195— Early Short Horn Carrot.About one-fourth ov 
74—Solid White Celery.About one-fourth ov 
103—Sage— ..About one - e !gbtbounce 
157—LongPricklyCucumber.7.7...Aboutone-emhth our 
196- Green Curled Kale.About one-fourth ouu. 
198—Improved Purple Egg Plant. ..About one-eighth ounce 
31—Winter Cherry.About one-eight' 
19T-Llnnr- T ”'-- J? -’- " ' * 
lerrv.About one-eiglith ounce 
ihubarb.....About onemalf ounce 
Flower 
latm 
ial Seeds. 
•' 89—Cotton Plant (2 kinds, mixed).One-half oi_ 
111—Castor Oil Bean.One-half ounce. 
On ah average any live of the following varieties will go 
under one 1 -cent stamp, (or two stamps if over 1500 miles.) 
300 — Fancy Gourds, (mixed|134-Whitlavia, (ha) 
varieties) (ha)* 49—Candytuft, (ha) 
301- Scarlet Chinese Egg 133-Gilia nivalis, (ha) 
175-Mixe 
.king 
33—Mignonette) (ha) 
35 —Mix’d Nasturtium 
. Chin ,■ I ml 
33—P.ortulaocas Mix’d, (ha) 313-X< 
io*—owcet Alyssum, (ha) ■ 
169—Clarkia pulchella, (ha) 
Salpiglossis (ha) 
Daisy, (ha) 
'“■-“I) 
168-Swi 
50—Mixed Schizanthus, (ha) 
40—Eschscholtzia Qtufor- 
nica, (h'a) VKVi 
<ha) 
mthemi 
136—Long tubed Ccntran. 
~ei)~WeO ~~'~~’' 316—Aci'oclmium Roseum, 
305— Double French Mari- (hha) 
gold, (ha) I 314-Balloon Yme, (hha) 
183—Fine Mixed German] 37—Cockscomb, ( (a ) 
Asters, (ha) 33— Cypress Vine, (ta) 
306 — Golden Straw Flower, 307-Kliodanihe Manglesii, 
308—Cnm e son Stl Gfobe ia A.ma- 133—Jfxed Canterbui"- 
ranth, (everlasting) ha Bells, (hb) 
310- Con volvulusTricoloi-,Ad- — 
173—Mixed Larkspur, (ha) 
167—MalopeGran diflora, (ha) 
311— Fine MixedLupins, (ha) 
,313—Fine Sweet Peas, (ha) 
* (ha,) hardy annual; (hha,) half hardy annual; (ta,) tende 
annual; (hhb„) half hardy biennial; (tb,) tender biennia] 
(hp,) hardy perennial; (hhp,) half hardy perennial 
(tp,) tender perennial. 
309—D w’f BlueLarkspur, (hp) 
171—F orget-Me-not, (hhp) 
