1871.] 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST, 
163 
pumpkins will do no damage to the crop, and will 
be so much clear gain to the farmer. 
Roads .—This is the month to work roads, rather 
than September. The track becomes hard and 
beaten before the fall rains. Level off the slopes 
and sides, and sow red-top or Kentucky blue- 
grass. The sod thus formed will rarely gully, 
even during freshets. 
Sheep .—Let your sheep run under some kind of a 
shelter during the cold storms, which often occur 
this month. Introduce them gradually to the grass 
at the close of the foddering season. This is the 
period when grain and roots are required to keep 
up the heart of the animal, and to provide against 
the scours. Shear early; it is now common to 
omit the washing. 
Sorghum .—Plow the ground deep, and till thor¬ 
oughly. Plant very early, and on ridges, instead 
of in a furrow or drill. Good corn ground will 
produce good sorghum. From two to three quarts 
will plant an acre. 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
The time for reading will necessarily be short 
this month, on account of the great pressure of 
spring work,and these notes must be brief and to the 
point. The gardener, to succeed, must toil early 
and late, and if he has laid his plans well during 
the preceding months, there will be little need of 
much reading now. 
Orchard and Nursery. 
Planting must be forwarded as fast as possible, 
and if the trees have been properly heeled in, they 
can be set out several weeks after those in the nur¬ 
sery have started. If any crop is planted between 
the rows of young trees, be sure to supply plenty 
of manure, so that the trees will not be robbed. 
Trees received from the nursery now are often 
shriveled and apparently worthless; to restore 
them, bury root and branch in the ground for a 
week. When packed close, the buds sometimes 
start; cut back to a dormant bud before planting. 
Grafting, except with stone-fruits, may be done 
early this month ; but use great care where vegeta¬ 
tion is active. 
Root-grafts , if not already set out, must not be 
delayed; plant in rows four feet apart and twelve 
inches in the row; press earth firmly around them. 
Mulsh newly-set trees with coarse hay or straw; 
it enables them to bear the drouth, and also pre¬ 
vents weeds. 
Risects.— Destroy all tent-caterpillar’s nests as 
soon as they appear; the best time to do this is 
either at night or in the morning. Wild cherry- 
trees should be cut down, as they only serve as a 
harbor for these pests. 
Seedlings of all kinds of trees must be kept free 
from weeds by constant stirring of the soil. If any 
seeds remain to be planted, do it early this month ; 
they need to be shaded and have a free circulation 
of air around them; a shelter of laths is the best 
and cheapest in use. 
Fruit Gardeu. 
Planting may be done at any time when the stock 
has been heeled in to prevent growth, as recom¬ 
mended under the orchard notes. 
Cuttings of currants, gooseberries, etc., which 
were put in sand last fall, may now be set out in 
rows three feet apart and 6ix inches in the row, and 
after one season’s growth taken up and planted. 
Grape-vines. —In working among the vines,be care¬ 
ful not to break the buds. With newly-planted vines 
only one cane should be allowed to grow the first 
year; select the strongest, and cut off the rest that 
start. 
Layers .—Put down layers of last year’s wood in 
trenches, and leave uncovered until the buds are 
well started, then gradually cover with soil. 
Currants .—If the plants look weak and sickly, it 
is a pretty sure 6ign that borers are at work; cut 
out all the injured portion, if it takes the whole 
bush. When currant-worms make their appear¬ 
ance upon the leaves, dust with powdered white 
hellebore. Mulch all newly-set plants early. 
Strawberries must be set as soou as possible, be¬ 
fore they have started into growth. Keep the beds 
clean, and if a mulch is given, it will save a great 
deal of trouble in hoeing the weeds. A mulch 
should always be put on before the berries begin to 
ripen, as it keeps them free from dirt. 
Packages .—Where fruit is sent to market, a supply 
of baskets and crates should be provided for send¬ 
ing off the crop. There are many styles offered. 
Raspberries and Blackberries. ■—• Tie up the last 
year’s growth to stakes or trellises, as preferred, 
and keep the ground clear of weeds. 
KIte1i<eaR (Sai*«lej6. 
Many of the hardier vegetables were sown last 
month, and in southern localities the early crop of 
peas, beets, radishes, etc., are being harvested. 
Where the ground has been wet and cold, there is 
little use of sowing seeds until it is warm and dry. 
In most localities all kinds of seeds may be sown 
this month. 
Asparagus may be cut on beds which are two 
years or more old. New beds may be set. 
Beans. —When all danger of frost is over, plant 
in rows three feet apart. Limas started under 
glass may be set out after the ground is dry and 
warm; they may be planted to poles four feet apart. 
Beets. —The early plantings must lie thinned out 
and kept carefully hoed ; the plants which are pull¬ 
ed up make excellent greens. 
Cabbage, and its varieties, Broccoli, Cauliflower, 
etc., all need the same general treatment when 
young. Set out the early plants from the liot-beds 
and cold-frames, and keep well hoed. Seeds for 
later crops may be sown in the open ground. 
Carrots must be kept free from weeds, especially 
when they arc small, for if allowed to grow they 
soon exceed the carrots in size. 
Celery. —Sow as directed last month ; stir the soil 
between the rows as soon as up, and weed. 
Cress, or Topper-grass. —Sow every week where one 
has a good locality to grow it well. 
Corn may be planted this month, in rows four 
feet apart, which, in a garden, is preferable to hills. 
Plant once in two weeks for a succession. 
Cucuiribcrs. —Where there are cold-frames or hot¬ 
beds from which the plants have been removed, 
they can be profitably devoted to cucumbers. 
Plants started in pots or beds earl}-, may be set out 
when the weather becomes warm. Sow plenty of 
seed, to allow for losses by the “bugs.” 
Egg-plants. —Set out as soon as all danger of frost 
is over, in a warm, rich spot. 
Lettuce. — Set out the early-sown 60 rts; give 
plenty of manure. Sow seed for a succession. 
Melons need the same treatment as cucumbers. 
Give liquid manure when convenient; it aids the 
growth of the plants very much. 
Onions. —Weed as soon as up, and keep the 
ground constantly stirred. A dressing of ashes, 
worked into the soil between the rows with a hoe, 
is very beneficial. 
Parsley. —Sow in open ground this month after 
soaking the seed in warm water. 
Peas should be bushed before they fall over. 
Earth up in hoeing. Late sorts may be sown. 
Potatoes. —Hoe as soou as up; finish planting. 
Radishes.— If a constant supply is wanted, sow 
every week, and keep clear of weeds; when insects 
appear, dust with air-slaked lime. 
Parsnips ought to be sown early this month; 
they require the same treatment as carrots. 
Rhubarb. —Do not remove the stalks from plants 
set last fall. Never cut the leaves, but pull with 
a slight sidewise twist; remove flower-stalks. 
Squashes for late use may be planted the latter 
part of this month in well enriched 60 il. The 
early sorts are managed the same as cucumbers. 
Tomatoes. —Transplant from hot-bed as soon as 
danger of frost is over; set four feet apart. 
Turnips. —If the black fly attacks the young 
plants, give a sifting of fine air-slaked lime. 
Flowcr«Gardeu and La vvii. 
Evergreens, if set during this month, usually do-, 
the best; the great secret is to transplant them 
just as they begin their annual growth. As 
soon as they are taken from the nursery, see that 
the roots are protected from the air, as a tree of 
this kind, the roots of which have become dry r 
seldom recovers and does well. Among the best 
for specimen trees, or screens, are the Hemlock,. 
Norway Spruce, Arbor Vitae, etc. In planting se¬ 
lect, if possible, a moist, cloudy day; the soil 
around the roots should be fine and rich; fresh 
manure ought never to be used, but, when well- 
established, give an annual dressing of good com¬ 
post, with plenty of vegetable matter in it. 
Deciduous Trees may still be set in cool localities,, 
where (lie yearly growth has not commenced. 
Flowering Shrubs, if not set last mouth, may still 
be put out; for varieties, see last month’s notes. 
Margins around beds, or along walks, must be 
kept cut smooth by the use of the edging-knife. 
The outlines of the beds may be preserved by driv¬ 
ing down stakes even witli the surface. 
Annuals. —The hardy ones must be sown imme¬ 
diately, while the tenderer sorts should be left un¬ 
til the ground becomes warm and dry, or they may 
be sown in boxes in the house now. 
Perennials may be sown in beds apart from the 
annuals; keep free from al>l weeds. Sow seed of 
those coming into flower as soon as ripe. 
Bulbs. —Plant out Gladioluses, Lilies, etc., as soon 
as the ground is dry. Tuberoses ought to be 
started in pots in the house or greenhouse. 
Climbers. —Sow seeds of the Sweet-pea, Cyprus- 
vine, Morning Glory, ote., to hide old fences and 
other unsightly objects, or to cover trellises, etc. 
Dahlias , which have been started, may be planted 
out the latter part of this month. 
Lawns. —In order to have a line close turf, it is 
necessary that the ground should be rich, the seed- 
sown thickly, and the grass mowed often. Weeds 
generally flourish best in a poor soil, where the 
grass does not make a growth strong enough to 
crowd them out. Lawns must be mowed often to 
keep the turf thick, and to destroy all annual 
weeds ; the grass ought to be allowed to remain in 
the ground, where it acts as a mulch and fertilizer. 
dreeiiSiossse aud WSsaaEow Brants. 
It has usually been the custom to put all house- 
plants, and most of those in the greenhouse, out 
of doors during the summer; many plants are in¬ 
jured in this way, and whoa in the fall it is found, 
necessary to return them to the greenhouse, they 
often present a very unsightly appearance. By 
ventilation, and shading of the glass, plants may be 
kept in excellent sondition during the summer. 
Shelter. —Plants out of doors need shelter from 
the sun and winds, especially -Camellias ; the pots 
ought to be placed upon a layer of coal-ashes, to¬ 
pi-event the worms from getting into them. 
Plunging , or setting the pot in soil up to its rim,, 
is often advisable, to avoid the necessity of frequent 
watering during very warm weather. 
Bedding Hants may be set out in the open border 
as soon as the ground is warm and dry. 
Wirnts to *»e a FSorist.— Amateur Flor¬ 
ist, 29 years old, states that he is a genuine lover of 
plants and flowers, and wishes to be a florist. He asks 
our advice in regard to the matter.—His love for flowers 
would not spocially help him in following the occupation 
of Florist as a business; in fact, it is rather considered 
a hinderauce to success, as sometimes the tendency is to 
grow and admire particular sorts to gratify one’s individ¬ 
ual tastes instead of discriminating for the taste of the 
public. In learning the business with any of the large 
Florists, he wonld be considered as an apprentice, and 
would only receive $4 or $5 a week for two years or so. 
The age (29) would be no hindcrance; some success¬ 
ful ones in the trade having begun later than that. 
