Cultivating and Iloeing Potatoes . — There are few 
crops which suffer more from weeds than potatoes. 
They require more moisture than corn, and every 
weed robs the ground of moisture. The weeds are 
constantly absorbing, from the soil, water through 
their roots, and evaporating it through their leaves 
into the atmosphere. The weeds in many a field 
of potatoes, evaporate during our hot July weath¬ 
er, 500 gallons of water per day, per acre ! And yet 
the farmer is complaining of drouth and sighing 
for rain ! If possible, stop the weeds from growing 
at all, but if they have got possession of the land, 
destroy them at all hazards, even if it is necessary 
to disturb the roots and tubers. 
Mangel Wurzel and other root crops, require 
abundance of moisture, and must be kept entirely 
free from weeds. And recollect that a mangel plant 
that is not needed is just as much a weed as a this¬ 
tle, and will evaporate nearly as much moisture. 
Single out the plants early. In our own case, we 
leave only one plant every twelve or fifteen inches. 
If the work is done during rainy weather, vacancies 
may be filled out, as the mangels transplant, as easi¬ 
ly as cabbage. 
Ruta-bagas should be cultivated, hoed, and singled 
out as soon as they are in the rough leaf. Single 
them out to a foot apart in the rows. Ruta-bagas 
may be sown as late as the middle of the month. 
After this, it would be better to sow white turnips 
instead. Dusting the plants, while the dew is on, 
with ashes, plaster, or lime, will check the ravages 
of the turnip beetle. After the plants get into the 
rough leaf, the danger is over, and all that need be 
done is to single out the plants and keep the laud 
clean by the use of the cultivator and hoe. 
Corn for soiling may still be sown. See directions 
for last month. 
Timothy seed has been and still is very scarce and 
high. A crop of timothy that could not be cut 
early enough for hay, had better be left for seed. 
Cut it with a reaper and bind it into sheaves. 
Barley was got in early and in good condition, 
but has been seriously injured by the drouth. It 
will probably be wanted at higher figures than for 
a year or two past. The best way to harvest it is 
to cut it with a reaper and bind into sheaves. 
But much of it will be too short for this, and will 
have to be cradled or cut with a mowing machine 
and raked up with a steel rake. 
Reas can sometimes be cut with a mowing ma¬ 
chine, or they may be pulled up with a wooden 
revolving rake. But it is a slovenly practice, and 
renders the liaulm unfit for fodder. The better 
plan, with a good crop, is to mow it with scythes, 
and pull it into small cocks. Turn the cocks as 
often as needed. A well-cured crop of peas affords 
straw almost as valuable for fodder as clover hay. 
Wheat should not be cut before all trace of 
“milk” has disappeared from the kernel when 
crushed between the thumb and finger; neither 
should it be left to get dead ripe. Much wheat is 
lost every year from careless binding and shocking. 
The farmer himself or one ©f his best men should 
attend to the shocking, and see that the sheaves 
are made into compact shocks that will shed the 
rain and not easily blow down. 
Thrashing , where barn room is scarce, is best 
done as the grain is drawn from the field. Steam 
engines are yearly becoming more common, and 
will thrash the grain as rapidly as three or four 
wagons can draw it from the fields. If the grain is 
dry enough, so that it will not heat after thrashing, 
we can confidently recommend this plan. It saves 
all the expense and risk of stacking. 
Turning over the grain after it is thrashed, should 
never be neglected. No matter how dry it may 
appear, it will sweat if not turned occasionally. If 
it gets heated, turn it at once, and then run it 
through a fanning-mill 
Straw will be valuable this year. Much of it is 
usually wasted through careless stacking. If pos¬ 
sible, put all the straw in one stack. The larger 
and higher it is, the less chance there is of its be¬ 
ing damaged by the rain. Keep the middle full and 
well trodden down, and make the roof as high as 
possible. Better find that it is impossible to get 
all the straw on to the stack than not have enough 
to make a good, steep roof. In our own case, we 
thrash the wheat and barley as drawn in from the 
field. The oats are thrashed two or three weeks 
later, and by this time the straw stack is so settled 
that by spreading out the roof a little all the oat 
straw can be put on the top and make a good roof. 
Recreation .—After the harvest is all secured, go a 
fishing for a few days and take a little rest! A 
farmer needs it if any one does. 
Work in the Horticultural Departments. 
Weeds will grow in spite of the heat and dryness, 
and a constant warfare must be waged against them. 
When weeds are hoed up and allowed to wilt under 
the scorching July sun, there is very little danger of 
their growing again, unless there is plenty of yel¬ 
low docks. Never allow a weed to run to seed if 
it can be helped, as the garden can be kept free of 
weeds, to a certaiu extent, if they are carefully 
pulled up when small. 
Orchard and Nursery. 
Trees newly set last spring ought to be heavily 
mulched, as stated in article on page 262. 
Insects will appear upon many of the trees in the 
orchard and nursery. It will require a constant 
watchfulness to prevent their ravages, both on the 
foliage and fruit. 
Seeds .—As fast as fruits ripen, save the seeds, if 
it is desired to propagate. Seeds of many orna¬ 
mental trees in the nursery require to be sown as 
soon as ripe. 
Seedlings of evergreen and other forest trees re¬ 
quire to be shaded from the hot sun by means of 
brush, or, what is better, a lattice-work of laths. 
A mulch of hay or straw between the rows of larger 
plants will prevent the growth of many weeds, and 
thus save much time and labor in weeding. 
Grafts set in the spring will require looking 
after now, as the stock often sends out new shoots, 
which rob the cion of nourishment. 
Layers may be made of vines and shrubs as soon 
as the new growth becomes firm. See page 263. 
Suckers should be rubbed off wherever they ap¬ 
pear upon budded or grafted stocks. 
Cherries .—Care must be used in picking not to 
injure the bark or break any limbs. 
Thinning of fruit should be continued this month, 
if not already finished in June. 
Fruit <wsti’«len. 
Where one has an abundance of small fruits, it 
will pay to preserve a good supply for winter use, 
by drying and canning. 
Blackberries for home use should be allowed to 
become perfectly ripe before picking, as they arc 
then much sweeter, and of a higher flavor; it is 
necessary to pick earlier where they are sent to 
market. Never allow the new canes to grow higher 
than five or six feet, and when the side branches 
reach a length of eighteen iuches, pinch off the ends. 
Raspbemes .—The canes which bore fruit this 
season, should be cut as soon as the crop is off, 
and all but three or four suckers cut out, un¬ 
less it is desired to propagate the variety. A good 
dressing of well-rotted manure spaded in between 
the rows is a great help to the growth of the plants. 
Currants .—Where the currant worm makes its 
appearance, dust the bushes with white hellebore. 
Give the ground between the rows a thick mulch ; 
it will save a great deal of time during the sea¬ 
son in keeping weeds under. 
Strawberries .—The season of these will be over 
by the first of this month, and the plants ought 
not to be neglected. Give a good compost to the 
beds, and where the plants are in hills, keep the 
runners cut off. 
Dwarf Trees ought to have their fruit thinned. 
Pinch the growing shoots so as to give the tree a 
compact and symmetrical form. 
but a little pinching during the summer. Where 
the fruit shows any signs of decay, it ought to be 
cut out; and if a part in any case is taken out, the 
remainder of the fruit will be much finer. Young 
vines just planted must be kept tied up to stakes. 
Keep the ground free from weeds, and the soil 
well stirred. If mildew makes its appearance, 
use sulphur freely, applying it by means of a 
bellows. Some good work upon grape culture is 
very necessary to one who grows many vines. 
A full crop of garden vegetables will reward the 
cultivator this month for the time and care used in 
their cultivation ; and it is the fault of the gardener 
if he does not have fresh vegetables upon his table 
every day until cold weather. Where the surplus 
products of the garden are marketed, they ought to 
be gathered late in the afternoon, and kept cool, and 
then taken to market early the next morning. If a 
farmer has land within a short distance of a good 
market, he will find that it will pay him to devote 
his attention to the growing of early vegetables. 
Asparagus .—No cuttings ought to be made from 
the asparagus bed at this season, but encourage 
the vigorous growth of tops by a good covering of 
manure. Where seed is wanted for making new r 
beds, select a sufficient number of strong plants; 
gather the seeds as soon as ripe, and sow early next 
spring. Weeds ought not to be allowed to grow 
in the bed, but kept down by the constant use of 
the hoe or rake. If the asparagus beetle appears, 
cut off all the tops infested by them, and burn. 
Beans .—Bush beans may still be planted for 
pickling, or for late use as string-beaus. Those 
now growing should be hoed frequently; do not 
hoe until the dew is off. Limas must be kept 
pinched after they have reached the hight cf the 
poles ; five or six feet is high enough. 
Beets .—A late crop may be had if sown early this 
month. Keep those already growing free from 
weeds, and pull the young plants where they are 
too thick, and use for greens. The ground ought 
to be loosened frequently between the rows, so 
that the plants may be kept in a growing condition. 
Cabbages and Caulifloruers .—Set out late sorts in 
well-manured soil. Hoe those already planted, and 
give a little top-dressing of guano, or a watering 
of liquid manure to encourage a rapid growth. 
Celery— Set out in freshly-stirred soil, wetting 
the plants before setting, and pressing the earth 
firmly around the roots. Put the plants six inches 
and the rows threq feet apart. 
Carrots .—Allow no weeds to grow, but keep the 
ground well stirred until the tops are large enough 
to cover the ground. 
Corn .—Some of the early varieties may be planted 
now for late use. Keep the cultivator in frequent 
use among that already growing. Plant enough to 
have a quantity to dry for winter use. 
Cucumbers .—Keep the plants already up free 
from weeds, and sow for pickling early this month. 
Egg-Plants should be forwarded as fast as possi¬ 
ble, by hoeing and giving a good watering of liquid 
manure at least onee a week. 
Endive may be sown for a late crop of salad. 
Herbs ought to be cut when they flower, tied in 
small bundles, and allowed to dry in the shade. 
Lettuce for late use may be sown in a shady place* 
Silesian is a good summer sort. 
Manure .—No garden ought to be without a good 
cask for liquid manure; the house slops can also 
be very beneficially applied to growing plants. If 
there is no liquid-manure cask, the slops should 
be applied to the compost-heap. 
Melons. —The weeds ought to be destroyed as 
soon as they appear between the hills, and the 
ground loosened with a hoe or fork. 
Onions require to be well hoed and weeded, and 
where too thick thinned out. 
Peas .—Sow for succession ; they should be plant- 
1871 .] AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 24,3 
| Grape-vines .—If these have been properly trained 
j and pruned when small, they will need nothing 
