Q91 
AMERICAN AGRICULTURIST. 
ORCHARD AND NURSERY. 
Apples—Gather winter varieties with 
care and carry them to the fruit room. Pick 
them during dry weather and if they are 
put in barrels, allow the heads to remain off 
for a week or until the sweating process is 
completed. See article elsewhere on set¬ 
ting out Trees. 
Blackberries—Plant as soon as the frost 
has deprived them of their foliage. 
Buddings performed last month—Loosen 
bandages ff. 
Cherry Trees—Plant out standards dur¬ 
ing the latter part of the month, or at any 
time after heavy frosts. 
Economy of land.—Plant out an orchard 
of apple, pear or cherry trees in rows say 
25 or 30 feet apart, and set out Raspberries 
or Blackberries between them, bringing the 
berries in a line with the trees so that the 
whole ground can be worked for a few years* 
with the plow or cultivator. Both of these 
smaller fruits do well in a partial shade, 
which the fruit trees will soon make. The 
ground must be manured, commensurate 
with the crops expected from it. 
Evergreens—May be transplanted early in 
this month. 
Fruit Trees of all kinds may be set out 
this month though the Peach, Nectarine and 
Apricot, are more certain to live when 
transplanted in early spring. 
Ground for Orchard or Nursery—Prepare 
by manuring, and subsoiling or trenching. 
Orchards—Renovate the neglected and un¬ 
thrifty by manuring and plowing or spading 
around the trees and spreading a few shovel- 
fulls of lime around each. Pruning may 
also be done at any time, but in very cold 
latitudes it is better to defer it till February. 
This is the month of all others to set out 
new orchards of apple, pear, cherry and 
quince trees. A mixture of two thirds muck 
and one third yard manure is a good com¬ 
post to use about the roots. 
Pears—Gather late varieties and lay away 
in the fi uit room. Set out trees early in the 
month. 
Planting Ornamental and Fruit Trees— 
Commence as soon as they have shed their 
foliage ; early fall planting is much better 
than late. 
Pruning may be done at any time dur¬ 
ing the month 
Raspberries—Set out plants m. to 1. or as 
soon as the leaves are off. 
Seeds of Apples, Pears, Quinces, Cherries, 
Plums, Peaches, Magnolia, Hawthorn, 
Chionanthus &c.—Plant f. to in. or put in 
boxes of earth or sand. 
Transplanting both of trees and shrubs— 
Attend to during the month, m. to 1. in this 
latitude. 
Weeds—Permit none to encumber the 
ground even at this season, nor allow them 
to sow seed for a future crop. 
KITCHEN AND FRUIT GARDEN. 
Asparagus—Cover old beds with coarse 
manure m. to 1. Plant out new beds trench¬ 
ing the ground and manuring heavily. 
Beets—Harvest before heavy frosts and 
keep in a cool cellar where they will not 
freeze. 
Blackberries—Make plantations of New- 
Rochelle at any time after frosts have killed 
the foliage. 
Cabbage—Prick out in cold frames m. tol. 
Cardoons—Earth up f. m. 1. in dry weath¬ 
er. 
Carrots—Dig m. to 1. and store in cellar. 
Cauliflower.—Set in frames for winter. 
Celery—Earth up during dry weather and 
when there is not so much as dew on. 
Currants—Prune and set out m. to 1. 
Cuttings may be made. See article on 
another page. 
Earthing up—Attend to during this month, 
only in dry weather. Tie the branches of 
plants requiring blanching with bass matting 
and draw the earth carefully around them 
taking care not to bruise or cover the heart 
of the plants. 
Economy of the Garden—Do not allow 
any vegetable to decay on the ground. Cu¬ 
cumbers, tomatoes, pumpkins, squashes, 
&c., should all be gathered and boiled with 
the “ mess ” for hogs. Collect the cabbage, 
turnip and beet leaves with the small roots 
for cattle; potato-tops, vines and weeds 
should be given to swine for manure. 
Endive—Blanch, tying up branches and 
earthing up each week. 
Frames—Have in readiness for lettuce, 
cabbage, cauliflowers, &c., sown last month ; 
they will be wanted for these plants m. to 1. 
Gooseberries—Set out m. to 1.; make cut¬ 
tings of and plant at the same time, pruning 
if necessary. 
Grape Vines—Remove layers which are 
well established ; take down tender vines 
and cover with earth. 
Herbs—Clean out, divide, manure and re¬ 
set hardy ones throwing a little earth or 
coarse manure over them ; take up tender 
varieties and put in frames or houses. 
Hoes should not be laid aside before No¬ 
vember. Many weeds come up during the 
latter part of the season and quickly go to 
seed if not disturbed by the hoe during this 
month. 
Lettuce—Prick out in frames m. to 1. 
Mushroom beds—Collect spawn and make 
ff.; attend to former beds, watering or cov¬ 
ering as is necessary. 
Nasturtiums—Gather ff. 
Onions—Plant for seed covering with 
litter. 
Parsnips—Take up what are required dur¬ 
ing the winter,covering with sand or earth in 
the cellar ; the remainder will keep better in 
the ground. 
Potatoes—Digff. to m. 
Raspberries—Make plantations ff. trench¬ 
ing or subsoiling the ground, using muck 
compost freely. Bend down the canes and 
cover with earth or litter before the ground 
freezes. 
Roots—Take up tender varieties first, in 
dry weather. 
Rhubarb—Plant out f. to m. It is better 
to plant in the fall as it starts very early in 
the spring. Sow seed f. to m. 
Salsify—Dig and cover with earth or sand 
for fall and winter use, leaving a portion in 
the ground for spring. 
Seeds gather and label with care putting 
: them out of the reach of mice. 
Squashes and pumpkins—Place in an airy 
situation out of the reach of storms. Do not 
allow them to freeze before being carried to 
a cool dry cellar. 
Strawberry Beds made last month—Keep 
free from weeds ; watering in dry weather. 
Beds may still be made ff. mulching with 
coarse manure or straw to protect them dur¬ 
ing the winter. 
Turnips—Hoe and thin out late plantings. 
The season must be the guide for harvesting ; 
for as they grow very late in the season and 
will bear pretty heavy frosts, it is only ne¬ 
cessary to harvest them before the ground 
freezes. 
Weeds—Continue to destroy. 
FLOWER GARDEN AND LAWN. 
Anemones and Ranunculuses—Plant m. 
to 1. 
Annuals—Remove those done blooming. 
Sow a lew hardy ff. in frames for early 
spring. 
Bedded plants, such as Geraniums, Fuch¬ 
sias, Heliotropes, Abutilons, &c., should be 
lifted early and potted or packed in boxes and 
transferred to the Greenhouse or a cool dry 
cellar. 
Borders—Keep free from weeds, raking 
off leaves, &c. 
Bulbs—Plant borders and beds ff. See 
last month’s directions, page 281. 
Carnations and Picotees—Pot layers f. to 
m.; cover plants remaining out with coarse 
manure or litter 11. 
Chrysanthemums—Tie to stakes and give 
liquid manure, soap-suds, &c., ff, complete 
making cuttings of. 
Crocus and Crown Imperials—Plant f. in. 
1. see article in September number. 
Cuttings—Make and plant f. to m. 
Dahlias—Take up before severe frosts, 
labelling and putting away in cool dry cellar. 
Early blooming plants and shrubs should 
be set out this month ; they will bloom 
much more freely than if deferred till 
spring. 
Evergreens—Plant ff. to m ; keep the 
roots from becoming dry while out of the 
ground which should be as short a time as 
possible. 
Gladiolas—Take up m. to 1. and store 
with dahlias. 
Grass—Mow ff. and rake offleaves. 
Gravel Walks—Weed and rake f. to m. 
Hoe until the frosts have destroyed all 
the weeds. 
Hyacinths—Plant f. m. 1. as directed last 
month. 
Iris, Jonquil and Narcissus—Plant during 
the month. 
Lilies—Plant ff. to m. See September 
number. 
Pansies raised from seed—Set out in a 
frame or cover with leaves. 
Peonies—Transplant m. to 1. and they will 
bloom next season. 
Perennials of all kinds maybe transplanted 
during the month. 
Pyrus Japonica—Plant m. to 1. 
Seeds—Gather and label with care. 
Shrubs—Plant m. to 1. 
Snowdrop—Plant ff. if not done last 
month. 
